LIBRARY 

'NIVEHJSITYOF 
CALIFORNIA 
SANTA  CRUZ 


r. 


BCU 


Source  15oofe0  of  american  tyistotv. 


BURNABY   TRAVELS. 


SOURCE   BOOKS  OF 
AMERICAN   HISTORY. 

Edited  with  Notes  and  Introduction  by 
RUFUS     ROCKWELL    WILSON 

Andrew  Burnaby.  Travels  Through  the 
Middle  Settlements  of  North  America, 
1759-60. 

Reprinted  from  the  last  (the  third)  edition  of  1798. 
Small  8vo,  cloth,  with  map.      $2.oo  net. 

William  Heath.  Memoirs  of  the  Ameri- 
can War. 

Reprinted  from  edition  of  1798. 

Small  8vo,  cloth.      $2.50  net. 

W.  W.  Canfield.    Legends  of  the  Iroquois. 

Small  8vo,  cloth,  illustrated.     $1.50  net. 


IN  PREPARATION : 

William  Moultrie.    Memoirs  of  the  Ameri- 
can Revolution. 

Freiin  von  Reidesel.    Letters  and  Journal. 
Thomas  J.  Dimsdale.     Vigilantes  of  Mon- 


tana. 


AND  OTHERS. 


A.  WESSELS  COMPANY,  NEW  YORK. 


BURNABY'S   TRAVELS 

THROUGH 
NORTH  AMERICA 


REPRINTED     FROM     THE     THIRD 
EDITION    0  F    1798 


WITH  INTRODUCTION  AND  NOTES   BY 

RUFUS    ROCKWELL   WILSON 


A.   WESSELS    COMPANY 

1904 


Copyright,  1904,  by 

A.  WESSELS  COMPANY,  NEW  YORK 

Printed  August,  1904 


The  Plimpton  Press  Norwood  Mass. 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

EDITOR'S  FOREWORD  (new) 7 

PREFACE  to  the  Third  Edition 15 

INTRODUCTION 21 

TRAVELS 29 

APPENDICES  ;  viz. 

N°  i .  Catalogue  of  Trees,  Plants,  Birds, 
Fishes,  Animals,  &c.  mentioned  in  the 
Course  of  this  Work  ;  with  their  com- 
mon Names,  and  the  Names  given 
them  by  Catesby  and  Linnaeus  .  .  157 

N°  2.  Tables  and  Statements  relating 
to  the  Commercial  Situation  of  the 
United  States,  both  before  and  since 
the  American  War 162 

N°  3.     Anecdotes  of  the  Indians  .      .      .      189 

N°  4. of  several  Branches  of 

the  Fairfax  Family,  now  domiciliated 

in  Virginia 197 

N°  5.     Diary  of  the  Weather    .     .     .     .      215 

EDITORIAL  NOTES  (new) 253 

INDEX  (new) 263 


t 
IU 


EDITOR'S     FOREWORD. 

THE  author  of  the  volume  to  which  this  serves 
as  introduction  was  born  in  1734  at  Asfordby, 
in  Leicestershire,  the  eldest  son  and  name- 
sake of  the  Reverend  Andrew  Burnaby,  a  well-to-do 
clergyman  of  the  Church  of  England,  who  served 
successively  as   vicar  of   St.    Margaret's,  Leicester, 
rector  of  Asfordby  and  prebendary  of  Lincoln. 

The  younger  Burnaby  was  admitted  into  West- 
minster School  in  1748,  and  proceeded  thence  to 
Queen's  College,  Cambridge,  where  he  took  the  de- 
gree of  Bachelor  of  Arts  in  1754,  and  three  years 
later,  that  of  Master  of  Arts.  In  1759  and  1760,  he 
travelled  through  the  American  colonies,  and  from 
1762  to  1767,  having  in  the  meantime  taken  orders, 
he  was  chaplain  to  the  British  factory  at  Leghorn. 
During  his  sojourn  in  Italy  he  explored  all  parts  of 
that  country  and  travelled  in  Corsica,  of  which,  in 
1804,  he  published  an  account.  In  1769,  soon  after 
his  return  to  England,  he  was  nominated  to  the 
vicarage  of  Greenwich,  and  in  1786  he  was  pre- 


Foreword 

sented  to  the  archdeaconry  of  Leicester.  He  suc- 
ceeded to  large  estates  in  Huntingdonshire  on  his 
father's  death  in  1767,  but  Baggrave  Hall,  Leicester- 
shire, the  inheritance  of  his  wife  Anna,  daughter  of 
John  Edwyn,  whom  he  married  in  1770,  was  his 
favorite  place  of  residence.  He  died  at  Blackheath, 
on  March  9,  1812,  and  within  a  fortnight  his  wife 
followed  him  to  the  grave.  One  of  his  descendants 
in  the  fourth  generation  was  Frederick  Burnaby,  the 
soldier  and  traveller,  who  was  killed  in  1885  at  the 
battle  of  Abu  Klea  in  the  Soudan. 

Burnaby  tells  in  his  introduction  how  the  record 
of  his  travels  through  the  American  colonies  found 
its  way  into  print.  First  published  in  1775,  it 
reached  a  second  edition  within  a  year  and  was 
speedily  translated  into  French  and  German.  The 
original  was  reissued  in  much  enlarged  form  in  1798, 
and  from  that  edition  the  present  reprint  is  made. 
Burnaby's  book  well  deserves  a  new  lease  of  life,  for 
he  was  an  acute  though  kindly  observer,  and  his  visit 
to  the  colonies  fell  in  an  interesting  and  critical  time: 
the  Seven  Years'  War  which  wrought  the  downfall 
of  the  French  power  in  America  was  just  drawing  to 
a  close,  and  in  the  political  sky  was  heard  the  low, 
insistent  rumblings  of  the  storm  which  was  to  break 
at  Concord  and  Bunker  Hill. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  the  author's  point 
of  view  was  that  of  a  devoted  minister  of  the  Church 
of  England  and  loyal  supporter  of  the  crown.  Thus 

[8] 


Foreword 

his  religious  and  political  inclinings  color  his  impres- 
sions of  country  and  people.  There  is  evidence  on 
every  page,  however,  that  he  was  moved  by  a  sincere 
purpose  to  be  truthful  and  just,  and  he  helps  not  a 
little  to  a  fuller  and  more  accurate  knowledge  of  a 
confused  and  troubled  period  in  our  history.  The 
editor  has  conformed  the  author's  spelling  of  proper 
names  to  present  usages,  and  has  added  such  notes 
as  seemed  necessary  to  make  certain  of  his  allusions 
clear  to  the  average  reader. 

R.  R.  W. 


[9] 


TRAVELS 

THROUGH    THE 

MIDDLE   SETTLEMENTS 

I  N 

NORTH    AMERICA, 

IN     THE     YEARS      1759     AND      1760; 
WITH 

OBSERVATIONS  UPON  THE  STATE  OF  THE  COLONIES 


BY  THE  REV.  ANDREW  BURNABY,  D.  D. 

ARCHDEACON  OF  LEICESTER  AND  VICAR  OF  GREENWICH. 


EDITION    THE    THIRD; 

REVISED,  CORRECTED,  AND    GREATLY  ENLARGED,  BY  THE  AUTHOR. 


LONDON 

PRINTED  FOR   T.  PAYNE,  AT  THE  MEWS-GATE. 


I798 
[Facsimile  Title  Page,  Third  Edition.] 


TO 

SIR   JOHN   DICK,   BART. 


THIS   THIRD    EDITION   OF 

TRAVELS  THROUGH  THE   MIDDLE   SETTLEMENTS 
IN   NORTH   AMERICA, 

is, 

IN  TESTIMONY  OF  THE  SINCEREST  AFFECTION  AND  GRATITUDE, 
MOST  RESPECTFULLY  INSCRIBED, 

BY  HIS  EVER  FAITHFUL 

AND  OBLIGED  HUMBLE  SERVANT, 

ANDREW   BURNABY. 


GREENWICH,  August  27,  1798. 


PREFACE 

TO    THE 

THIRD    EDITION. 

THE  two  former  Editions  of  these  Travels 
were  published,  one  immediately  after  the 
other,  at  a  moment,  when  events  of  the 
greatest  magnitude,  and  importance  to  this  country, 
were  depending;  and  when  the  minds  of  men  were 
extremely  agitated  and  alarmed  for  the  fate  of  the 
British  Empire.  A  rupture  between  Great  Britain 
and  her  American  Colonies  was  seriously  appre- 
hended: and  as  men  foresaw,  or  at  least  fancied  they 
foresaw,  very  calamitous  consequences  arising  from 
so  disastrous  an  event,  it  was  generally  wished  that 
the  evil  might,  if  possible,  be  prevented;  and  a  recon- 
ciliation happily  effected,  before  matters  were  carried 
to  extremity.  The  Author,  flattered  by  his  friends, 
and  perhaps  a  little  also  by  vanity,  presumed  to  hope, 
that  the  publication  of  his  tour  through  the  Middle 
Settlements  in  North  America  might,  in  some  de- 
gree, conduce  to  this  desirable  end :  and  as  the  meas- 


Preface 

ures  to  be  adopted  by  Government  were  at  that  time 
under  the  deliberation  of  Parliament,  it  was  thought 
expedient  to  submit  it  to  the  Public,  before  any  reso- 
lutions were  formed  that  might  eventually  be  de- 
cisive of  the  fate  of  the  British  Empire.  There  was 
not  time,  therefore,  to  publish  the  Work  in  so  full 
and  correct  a  manner,  as  the  materials  in  the  Author's 
possession  would  otherwise  have  enabled  him  to  do. 
He  confined  himself  to  general,  and  what  he  judged 
leading,  circumstances;  and  postponed  the  insertion 
of  others  to  more  favourable  and  tranquil  times. 
The  two  former  Editions,  however,  being  now  en- 
tirely out  of  print,  he  deems  it  expedient  to  publish 
a  third  Edition,  revised,  corrected,  and  greatly  en- 
larged by  the  insertion  of  new  matter;  particularly 
by  several  statistical  tables  referring  to  the  Com- 
merce of  America;  and  some  authentic  Memoirs  of 
Thomas  late  Lord  Fairfax,  and  of  the  several 
branches  of  that  noble  house  now  domiciliated  in 
Virginia,  both  of  which  have  been  derived  from  the 
best  and  most  unquestionable  authority.  -  -  The 
Work  for  these  reasons,  and  from  its  being  almost 
the  only  account  of  the  Middle  Settlements,  during 
the  period  of  their  happiest  and  most  flourishing 
state,  may  possibly,  notwithstanding  the  separation 
that  has  since  taken  place,  be  still  interesting,  at 
least  to  individuals:  and  the  Author  offers  the  present 
Edition  to  the  Public,  with  the  same  assurance  as  he 
did  the  former  ones;  viz.  that  he  believes  the  con- 

[16] 


Preface 

tents  to  be  strictly  and  literally  true.  If,  however, 
some  slight  errors  may  accidentally  and  undesignedly 
have  been  committed,  and  any  one  will  have  the 
goodness  to  point  them  out,  the  Author  will  think 
himself  highly  obliged  by  the  information,  and  will 
avail  himself  of  the  first  opportunity  to  acknowledge 
and  correct  them. 

The  astonishing  events  that  have  taken  place  since 
the  publication  of  the  two  former  Editions,  will 
probably  expose  the  Author's  opinion  concerning 
the  termination  and  final  issue  of  the  American  con- 
test to  animadversion:  but  in  vindication  of  himself, 
he  must  be  permitted  to  observe,  - 

That  it  was  not  within  the  sphere  of  calculation 
to  suppose, 

ist.  That  the  British  ministry  would  persist  in 
requiring  unconditional  submission  from  the  colonies, 
till  it  was  too  late  to  recede;  and  the  opportunity  was 
lost,  and  for  ever  gone  by : 

2dly.  That  when  coercive  measures  had  been  re- 
solved upon,  they  would  have  been  enforced  in  so 
ruinous  and  so  ineffectual  a  manner: 

3dly.  That,  during  the  war,  any  member  in 
opposition  would  have  declared  publicly,  that  he 
corresponded  with,  and  wished  success  to,  the 
Americans,  then  in  arms  against  the  king: 

Still  less  was  it  within  the  sphere  of  calculation  to 
suppose, 

That  France,  though  it  might  be  expected  that 


Preface 

she  would  so  far  interfere  in  the  contest  as  to  en- 
deavour to  distress  and  embarrass  this  country, 
would  send  troops  to  America,  to  the  irreparable 
ruin  of  her  own  finances,  in  order  to  make  the  Ameri- 
cans free  and  independent  states: 

Least  of  all  was  it  within  the  sphere  of  calculation 
to  suppose, 

That  Spain  would  join  in  a  plan  inevitably  lead- 
ing, though  by  slow  and  imperceptible  steps,  to  the 
final  loss  of  all  her  rich  possessions  in  South  America. 

There  were  indeed  enlightened  minds  both  in 
France  and  in  Spain,  who  foresaw  what  has  since 
happened,  and  who  deprecated  any  interference  in  the 
dispute,  and  recommended  the  observance  of  a  strict 
neutrality:  And  the  unfortunate  Lewis  the  sixteenth 
himself  is  said  to  have  shewn  the  greatest  repug- 
nance to  the  treaty  with  the  Americans,  and  to  have 
declared  in  the  bitterness  of  sorrow,  when  he  signed 
it,  that  he  had  signed  the  warrant  for  his  own  ruin 
and  destruction. 

In  August,  1792,  the  Author  was  at  Cologne;  and 
there  accidentally  falling  in  with  the  Duke  of  Bour- 
bon, and  several  French  noblemen  of  his  suite,  the 
conversation  naturally  turned  upon  the  situation  and 
affairs  of  France;  and  the  author  expressing  his  sur- 
prise at  the  impolicy  of  the  French  ministry  in  en- 
gaging so  deeply  in  the  American  war,  and  deducing 
from  thence  the  present  miseries  of  France,  one  of 
the  courtiers  with  great  emotion  exclaimed,  —  "Ah, 

[18] 


Preface 

"monsieur,  c'est  bien  vrai;  nous  avons  mal  calcule!" 
—  But  the  die  is  cast,  and  it  is  too  late  to  moralize. 
The  reader  will  doubtless  be  surprised,  when  the 
Author  declares,  that  he  has  not  altered  his  senti- 
ments since  the  year  1775,  in  regard  to  the  American 
war  and  its  consequences.  He  still  thinks,  that  the 
separation  might,  in  the  first  instance,  have  been 
prevented:  that  coercive  measures,  when  resolved 
upon,  might  have  been  enforced,  comparatively 
speaking,  without  bloodshed;  and  with  great  prob- 
ability of  success:  that  the  present  union  of  the 
American  States  will  not  be  permanent  or  last  for 
any  considerable  length  of  time:  that  that  extensive 
country  must  necessarily  be  divided  into  separate 
states  and  kingdoms:  and  that  America  will  never, 
at  least  for  many  ages,  become  formidable  to  Europe; 
or  acquire,  what  has  been  so  frequently  predicted, 
universal  empire.  The  Author  thinks  he  could  as- 
sign plausible  reasons  at  least  for  these  various 
opinions;  but  it  is  better  that  they  should  be  con- 
signed to  oblivion.  The  wise  Disposer  of  events 
has  decreed,  that  America  shall  be  independent  of 
Great  Britain;  that  she  is  so,  may  ultimately  perhaps 
be  advantageous  to  both  countries;  at  least  it  will  be 
owing  to  excess  of  folly  if  it  be  highly  disadvan- 
tageous to  either.  Let  us  supplicate  Heaven  to 
unite  them  in  permanent  friendship  and  affection; 
and  to  preserve  inviolate  that  alliance,  that  harmony 
and  connection,  which  religion,  moral  habits,  Ian- 


Prefc 


ace 


guage,  interest,  origin,  and  innumerable  other  con- 
siderations, can  never  cease  to  point  out  and  recom- 
mend to  them. 


INTRODUCTION. 


A  FEW  days  before  I  embarked  for  America, 
being  in  a  coffee-house  with  some  friends, 
and  discoursing  of  things  relative  to  that 
country,  an  elderly  gentleman  advancing  towards 
the  box  where  we  were  sitting,  addressed  himself  to 
me  in  the  following  manner:  "Sir,"  said  he,  "you 
"are  young,  and  just  entering  into  the  world;  I  am 
"old,  and  upon  the  point  of  leaving  it:  allow  me 
"therefore  to  give  you  one  piece  of  advice,  which  is 
"the  result  of  experience;  and  which  may  possibly, 
"some  time  or  other,  be  of  use  to  you.  You  are 
"going  to  a  country  where  every  thing  will  appear 
"new  and  wonderful  to  you;  but  it  will  appear  so 
"only  for  a  while;  for  the  novelty  of  it  will  daily  wear 
"off;  and  in  time  it  will  grow  quite  familiar  to  you. 
"Let  me,  therefore,  recommend  to  you  to  note  in 
"your  pocket-book  every  circumstance  that  may 
"make  an  impression  upon  you;  for  be  assured,  sir, 
"though  it  may  afterward  appear  familiar  and  un- 
"  interesting  to  yourself,  it  will  not  appear  so  to  your 

[21] 


Introduction 

"friends,  who  have  never  visited  that  country,  for 
"they  will  be  entertained  by  it." 

The  following  observations  were  the  result  of  this 
advice;  they  were  written  upon  the  several  spots  to 
which  they  refer;  and  were  intended  for  no  other 
purpose,  than  that  of  serving  as  memorandums. 
They  appeared,  by  the  time  I  returned  to  Europe, 
according  to  the  gentleman's  prediction,  so  very 
familiar  to  me,  that  I  scarcely  thought  them  deserv- 
ing of  the  perusal  of  my  friends.  Some  of  these, 
however,  were  so  obliging  as  to  bestow  upon  them 
that  trouble;  and  it  is  by  their  advice,  and  the  con- 
sideration of  the  present  critical  situation  of  affairs, 
that  I  now  submit  them  to  the  judgment  of  the  pub- 
lic. —  Whatever  may  be  their  merit,  which  I  fear  is 
but  small,  I  can  assure  the  reader  of  one  thing,  I  be- 
lieve they  are  generally  true.  They  are  the  fruit  of 
the  most  impartial  inquiries,  and  best  intelligence, 
that  I  was  able  to  procure  in  the  different  colonies 
which  I  visited.  If  I  have  been  led  into  any  error, 
or  have  misrepresented  any  thing,  it  has  been  unde- 
signedly:  a  spirit  of  party  is  universally  prevalent 
in  America,  and  it  is  not  always  an  easy  matter  to 
arrive  at  the  knowledge  of  truth;  but  I  believe,  in 
general,  I  have  been  pretty  successful.  I  conversed 
indiscriminately  with  persons  of  all  parties;  and  en- 
deavoured, by  allowing  for  prejudices  and  collating 
their  different  accounts,  to  get  at  the  true  one.  If  I 
have  any  doubt  myself  about  any  particular  part  of 

[22] 


Introduction 

the  following  observations  (and  it  is  one  in  which  I 
wish  I  may  be  found  to  have  been  misinformed),  it 
is  that  which  relates  to  the  character  of  the  Rhode 
Islanders.  I  was  exceedingly  ill  at  that  place,  and 
had  not  the  same  opportunity  of  procuring  informa- 
tion as  elsewhere.  I  conversed  with  but  few  gentle- 
men, and  they  were  principally  of  one  party;  but 
they  were  gentlemen  of  such  universal  good  character, 
that  I  could  not  but  rely  in  some  measure  on  the 
accounts  with  which  they  favoured  me.  Some 
allowance,  however,  I  did  make  for  prejudice;  and 
I  am  desirous  that  the  reader  should  make  a  still 
larger  one;  indeed,  I  should  be  happy  to  stand  cor- 
rected in  regard  to  what  I  have  said  of  that  people, 
as  no  one  can  have  less  pleasure  in  speaking  un- 
favourably of  mankind  than  myself. 

I  have  studiously  avoided  all  technical  or  scientific 
terms;  such  to  the  informed  reader  are  unnecessary, 
to  the  uninformed  one  they  are  unintelligible  and 
perplexing:  in  relations  of  this  kind  they  have  always 
an  appearance  of  affectation  and  pedantry. 

For  the  most  valuable  part  of  the  following  collec- 
tion, I  mean  the  Diary*  of  the  Weather,  I  am  en- 
tirely indebted  to  my  esteemed  friend,  Francis  Fau- 
quier,  esq.,  son  of  the  late  worthy  lieutenant-governor 
of  Virginia,  who  very  obligingly  transmitted  it  to  me 
from  Williamsburg,  while  I  resided,  as  chaplain  to 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  i. 


Introduction 

the  British  factory,  at  Leghorn;    and    has    allowed 
me  to  make  the  use  of  it  which  I  have  here  done. 

The  present  unhappy  differences  subsisting 
amongst  us,  with  regard  to  America,  will,  I  am  sen- 
sible, expose  the  publication  of  this  account  to  much 
censure  and  criticism;  but  I  can  truly  aver,  that  I 
have  been  led  to  it  by  no  party  motive  whatsoever. 
My  first  attachment,  as  it  is  natural,  is  to  my  native 
country;  my  next  is  to  America;  and  such  is  my 
affection  for  both,  that  I  hope  nothing  will  ever  hap- 
pen to  dissolve  that  union,  which  is  necessary  to  their 
common  happiness.  Let  every  Englishman  and 
American,  but  for  a  moment  or  two,  substitute  them- 
selves in  each  other's  place,  and,  I  think,  a  mode  of 
reconciliation  will  soon  take  effect. — Every  Ameri- 
can will  then  perceive  the  reasonableness  of  acknowl- 
edging the  supremacy  of  the  British  legislature;  and 
every  Englishman,  perhaps,  the  hardship  of  being 
taxed  where  there  is  no  representation,  or  assent. 

There  is  scarcely  any  such  thing,  I  believe,  as  a 
perfect  government;  and  solecisms  are  to  be  found 
in  all.  The  present  disputes  are  seemingly  the  re- 
sult of  one. — Nothing  can  be  more  undeniable  than 
the  supremacy  of  Parliament  over  the  most  distant 
branches  of  the  British  Empire:  for  although  the  king 
being  esteemed,  in  the  eye  of  the  law,  the  original 
proprietor  of  all  the  lands  in  the  kingdom;  all  lands, 
upon  defect  of  heirs  to  succeed  to  an  inheritance, 
escheat  to  the  king;  and  all  new  discovered  lands  vest 

[24] 


Introduction 

in  him:  yet  in  neither  case  can  he  exempt  them  from 
the  jurisdiction  of  the  legislature  of  the  kingdom. 

He  may  grant  them,  under  leases  or  charters,  to 
individuals  or  companies,  with  liberty  of  making 
rules  and  regulations  for  the  internal  government 
and  improvement  of  them;  but  such  regulations  must 
ever  be  consistent  with  the  laws  of  the  kingdom,  and 
subject  to  their  control. 

On  the  other  hand,  I  am  extremely  dubious, 
whether  it  be  consistent  with  the  general  principles 
of  liberty  (with  those  of  the  British  constitution  I 
think  it  is  not)  to  tax  where  there  is  no  representation: 
the  arguments  hitherto  adduced  from  Manchester 
and  Birmingham,  and  other  great  towns,  not  having 
representatives,  are  foreign  to  the  subject;  at  least 
they  are  by  no  means  equal  to  it; — for  every  in- 
habitant, possessed  of  forty  shillings  freehold,  has 
a  vote  in  the  election  of  members  for  the  county:  but 
it  is  not  the  persons,  but  the  property  of  men  that  is 
taxed,  and  there  is  not  a  foot  of  property  in  this  king- 
dom that  is  not  represented. 

It  appears  then,  that  certain  principles  exist  in 
the  British  constitution,  which  militate  with  each 
other;  the  reason  of  their  doing  so  is  evident;  it  was 
never  supposed  that  they  would  extend  beyond  the 
limits  of  Great  Britain,  or  affect  so  distant  a  country 
as  America.  It  is  much  to  be  wished,  therefore,  that 
some  expedient  could  be  thought  of  to  reconcile  them. 

The  conduct  of  the  several  administrations  that 
[25] 


Introduction 

have  had  the  direction  of  the  affairs  of  this  kingdom, 
has  been  reciprocally  arraigned;  but,  I  think,  with- 
out reason,  for,  all  things  considered,  an  impartial 
and  dispassionate  mind  will  find  many  excuses  to 
allege  in  justification  of  each.  — The  fewest,  I  am 
afraid,  are  to  be  pleaded  in  favour  of  the  Americans; 
for  they  settled  in  America  under  charters  which 
expressly  reserved  to  the  British  Parliament  the 
authority,  whether  consistent  or  not  consistent,  now 
asserted.  Although,  therefore,  they  had  a  right  to 
make  humble  representations  to  his  majesty  in  Par- 
liament, and  to  shew  the  impropriety  and  inconven- 
ience of  enforcing  such  principles,  yet  they  had 
certainly  no  right  to  oppose  them. 

Expedients  may  still  be  found,  it  is  to  be  hoped 
however,  to  conciliate  the  present  unhappy  differ- 
ences, and  restore  harmony  again  between  Great 
Britain  and  her  colonies,  but  whatever  measures 
may  be  adopted  by  Parliament,  it  is  the  duty  and 
interest  of  America  to  submit. — But  it  is  impertinent 
to  enter  any  further  into  the  discussion  of  a  subject 
which  is  at  this  time  under  the  deliberation  of  the 
supreme  council  of  the  nation.  I  will,  therefore, 
conclude  with  a  sincere  prayer,  that  whatever  meas- 
ures may  be  adopted,  they  may  be  different  in  their 
issue  from  what  the  fears  of  men  generally  lead  them 
to  preconceive;  and  that,  if  they  be  coercive  ones, 
they  may  be  enforced,  which,  I  am  persuaded,  is 
practicable,  without  the  effusion  of  blood :  if  lenient 

[26] 


Introduction 

ones,  which  are  preferable,  and  which  I  think  equally 
practicable,  conceded  without  any  loss  or  diminution 
of  the  dignity  or  interest  of  this  kingdom. 


Greenwich, 
Jan.  29th,  1775. 


TRAVELS 

THROUGH    THE 

MIDDLE   SETTLEMENTS 

IN 

NORTH     AMERICA. 

ON  Friday  the  2Jth  of  April,  1 759, 1  embarked, 
in  company  with   several   North  American 
gentlemen,  on  board  the  Dispatch,  Captain 
Necks,  for  Virginia;  and  the  next  day  we  set  sail 
from  Spithead,  under  convoy  of  his  majesty's  ship 
the  Lynn,  Captain  Sterling,  commander,  with  thirty- 
three  sail  of  trading  vessels.     We  came  to  an  anchor 
in  the  evening   in  Yarmouth  Road,    and  the  next 
day   sailed  with  a  fresh  easterly  wind  through  the 
Needles. 

April  30.  We  passed  by  the  Lizard,  and  in  the 
evening  discovered  a  sail,  which  proved  to  be  an 
English  sloop  laden  with  corn.  She  had  been  taken 
by  a  French  privateer,  and  was  steering  for  France: 
there  were  three  Frenchmen  and  one  Englishman 
on  board.  The  commodore  sent  some  hands  to  her, 
with  orders  to  carry  her  to  Penzance. 

May  i.     Thick,  hazy  weather  with  a  fair  wind. 
[29] 


'Travels    Through 

A  large  ship  passed  through  the  fleet  about  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon:  and  in  the  evening  another 
vessel  bore  down  upon  the  sternmost  ships,  and 
spoke  with  them. 

May  2.  Fair,  pleasant  weather.  The  next  day 
we  found  by  our  reckoning  that  we  had  made  a  hun- 
dred leagues  from  the  Land's  End. 

May  4.  Strong,  violent  gales  at  north-and-by- 
west.  In  the  evening  the  Molly,  Captain  Chew,  had 
her  maintop-mast  carried  away,  and  hoisted  a  signal 
of  distress. 

May  5.  From  this  time  to  the  I4th,  nothing  re- 
markable happened:  the  wind  was  seldom  fair,  but 
the  weather  being  moderate,  we  made  frequent  visits, 
and  passed  our  time  very  agreeably. 

May  14.  Captain  Necks  fell  ill  of  a  fever,  and 
continued  indisposed  several  days:  he  began  to  mend 
about  the  iyth. 

May  19.  In  the  afternoon,  a  sudden  and  violent 
squall  from  the  north-west  obliged  us  to  lie-to  under 
our  reefed  main-sail:  it  continued  to  increase,  and 
blew  a  storm  for  about  thirty-six  hours,  when  it  be- 
gan to  moderate. 

May  21.  We  made  sail  in  the  afternoon,  with  four 
ships  in  company;  and  the  next  day  in  the  evening 
were  joined  by  eighteen  more.  From  that  time  to  the 
28th,  nothing  remarkable  happened:  we  had  gen- 
erally pleasant  weather,  but  adverse  winds.  We 
frequently  visited;  and  were  much  entertained  with 

[3°] 


North  America 

seeing  grampuses,  turtles,  bonetas,  porpoises,  fly- 
ing and  other  fish,  common  in  the  Atlantic.* 

May  28.  We  discovered  a  large  sail;  she  directed 
her  course  towards  the  east.  We  supposed  her  to 
be  an  English  man  of  war  going  express.  She 
carried  three  top-gallant  sails. 

May  31.  We  spoke  with  a  sloop  bound  from 
Antigua  to  London.  She  acquainted  the  commo- 
dore with  the  agreeable  news  of  his  majesty's  forces 
at  Guadaloupe  having  reduced  that  whole  island 
under  subjection  to  the  British  government.  The 
wind  still  continued  unfavourable. 

June  5.  We  spoke  with  a  snow  from  Carolina 
which  informed  the  commodore  that  a  French 
frigate  was  cruising  off  the  capes  of  Virginia.  From 
that  time  to  the  nth,  we  had  nothing  remarkable. 
The  wind  was  generally  from  west  to  north-west, 
and  there  were  frequent  squalls  with  lightning.  We 
saw  several  bonetas,  grampuses,  albicores,  and  fish 
of  different  kinds. 

June  ii.  The  water  appeared  discoloured;  and 
we  concluded  that  we  were  upon  the  Banks  of  New- 
foundland: we  cast  the  lead,  but  found  no  ground. 
The  weather  was  thick  and  hazy.  Nothing  re- 
markable happened  from  this  time  to  the  3d  of  July: 
we  had  pleasant  weather,  though  now  and  then 
squalls  with  lightning.  We  fell  in  with  several  cur- 
rents and  had  variable  winds. 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  I. 

[31] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

July  3.  We  had  fine  weather,  with  a  gentle 
breeze  at  N.  W.  We  were  now,  according  to  the 
commodore's  reckoning  (which  we  afterward  found 
to  be  true)  about  sixty  leagues  from  land.  The  air 
was  richly  scented  with  the  fragrance  of  the  pine- 
trees. 

July  4.  We  saw  a  great  many  sloops,  from 
whence  we  imagined  that  we  were  near  the  coast. 
The  wind  was  at  east-by-north. 

July  5.  About  six  in  the  morning  we  caught 
some  green  fish:  upon  this  we  sounded,  and  found 
eighteen  fathom  water.  At  ten  we  discovered  land, 
which  proved  to  be  Cape  Charles;  and  about  three 
hours  afterward  sailed  through  the  capes  into  Chesa- 
peake Bay.  The  commodore  took  his  leave  to  go 
upon  a  cruise;  and  at  eight  in  the  evening  we  came 
to  an  anchor  in  York  river,  after  a  tedious  and  dis- 
agreeable voyage  of  almost  ten  weeks. 

The  next  morning,  having  hired  a  chaise  at  York, 
a  small  inconsiderable  town,  I  went  to  Williamsburg, 
about  twelve  miles  distant.  The  road  is  exceed- 
ingly pleasant,  through  some  of  the  finest  tobacco 
plantations*  in  North  America,  with  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  river  and  woods  of  great  extent. 

*  The  tobacco  growing  upon  York  river,  is  esteemed  superior  to 
any  other  in  North  America;  particularly  that  which  is  raised  upon 
the  plantations  belonging  to  Colonel  Edward  Diggs,  which  is  said 
to  have  a  flavour  excelling  all  others.  Of  the  growth  of  one  plan- 
tation, distinguished  from  the  rest,  the  tobacco  is  in  such  high  esti- 
mation, that  Colonel  Diggs  puts  upon  every  hogshead  in  which  it 


)  Virginia 

Williamsburg  is  the  capital  of  Virginia:  it  is  situ- 
ated between  two  creeks,  one  falling  into  James,  the 
other  into  York  river;  and  is  built  nearly  due  east 
and  west.*  The  distance  of  each  landing-place  is 
something  more  than  a  mile  from  the  town;  which, 
with  the  disadvantage  of  not  being  able  to  bring  up 
large  vessels,  is  the  reason  of  its  not  having  increased 
so  fast  as  might  have  been  expected.  It  consists  of 
about  two  hundred  houses,  does  not  contain  more 
than  one  thousand  souls,  whites  and  negroes;  and  is 
far  from  being  a  place  of  any  consequence.  It  is 

is  packed,  the  initials  of  his  name;  and  it  is  from  thence  called  the 
E.  D.  tobacco,  and  sells  for  a  proportionally  higher  price.  Some 
time  ago,  Colonel  Diggs  having  a  tract  of  land,  seemingly  of  the 
same  quality,  and  under  the  same  exposure  and  aspect  as  the  plan- 
tation producing  the  E.  D.  tobacco,  from  which  it  was  separated 
only  by  a  small  rill  of  water,  he  directed  it  to  be  planted;  and  as 
the  produce  was  apparently  similar  in  quality,  colour,  flavour,  and 
every  other  particular,  he  thought  himself  warranted  to  delineate 
E.  D.  upon  the  hogsheads  in  which  it  was  packed.  Accordingly, 
it  was  sent  to  market  with  this  recommendatory  mark  or  token. 
But  some  time  after,  he  received  a  letter  from  his  factor  or  mer- 
chant in  London,  informing  him  that  his  inspector  or  agent  had 
been  guilty  of  some  great  oversight  or  error,  as  the  tobacco  con- 
tained in  certain  casks,  which  he  specified,  though  marked  with 
E.  D.,  was  of  a  different  and  very  inferior  quality  to  that  com- 
modity; and  that  if  the  same  fault  should  be  again  committed,  it 
would  ruin  the  reputation  and  sale  of  the  E.  D.  tobacco.  It  is  to 
be  observed,  that  the  soil  or  mould  had  been  carefully  analysed  and 
examined  previous  to  its  being  planted;  and  that  not  the  smallest 
difference  could  be  perceived  between  that  of  the  old  and  new 
plantation.  The  experiment,  it  will  easily  be  believed,  was  not  re- 
peated. 

*  See  Note  I. 

[33] 


Travels  Through  North  America 

regularly  laid  out  in  parallel  streets,  intersected  by 
others  at  right  angles;  has  a  handsome  square  in 
the  center,  through  which  runs  the  principal  street, 
one  of  the  most  spacious  in  North  America,  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  above  a  hundred 
feet  wide.  At  the  opposite  ends  of  this  street  are 
two  public  buildings,  the  college  and  the  capitol: 
and  although  the  houses  are  of  wood,  covered  with 
shingles,*  and  but  indifferently  built,  the  whole 
makes  a  handsome  appearance.  There  are  few 
public  edifices  that  deserve  to  be  taken  notice  of; 
those,  which  I  have  mentioned,  are  the  principal; 
and  they  are  far  from  being  magnificent.  The 
governor's  palace  is  tolerably  good,  one  of  the  best 
upon  the  continent;  but  the  church,  the  prison, 
and  the  other  buildings,  are  all  of  them  extremely 
indifferent.  The  streets  are  not  paved,  and  are  con- 
sequently very  dusty,  the  soil  hereabout  consisting 
chiefly  of  sand:  however,  the  situation  of  Williams- 
burg  has  one  advantage  which  few  or  no  places  in 
these  lower  parts  have,  that  of  being  free  from  mos- 
quitoes. Upon  the  whole,  it  is  an  agreeable  resi- 
dence; there  are  ten  or  twelve  gentlemen's  families 
constantly  residing  in  it,  besides  merchants  and 
tradesmen:  and  at  the  times  of  the  assemblies,  and 
general  courts,  it  is  crowded  with  the  gentry  of  the 
country:  on  those  occasions  there  are  balls  and  other 

*  These  are  formed  in  the  shape  of  tiles,  and  are  generally  made 
of  white  cedar  or  of  cypress. 

[34] 


Virginia 

amusements;  but  as  soon  as  the  business  is  finished, 
they  return  to  their  plantations;  and  the  town  is  in  a 
manner  deserted.* 

The  situation  of  Virginia  (according  to  Evans's 
map)  is  between  the  36th  and  4Oth  degree  of  north 
lat.  and  about  76  degrees  west  long,  from  London. f 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  Potomac, 
on  the  east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  by  Carolina  on 
the  south,  and,  to  include  only  what  is  inhabited, 
by  the  great  Alleghany  on  the  west.f 

The  climate  is  extremely  fine,  though  subject  to 
violent  heats  in  the  summer:  Fahrenheit's  thermome- 
ter being  generally  for  three  months  from  85  to  95 
degrees  high.  The  other  seasons,  however,  make 
ample  amends  for  this  inconvenience:  for  the 
autumns  and  springs  are  delightful;  and  the  winters 
are  so  mild  and  serene  (though  there  are  now  and 
then  excessively  cold  days)  as  scarcely  to  require  a 
fire.  The  only  complaint  that  a  person  can  reason- 
ably make,  is,  of  the  very  sudden  changes  to  which 
the  weather  is  liable;  for  this  being  entirely  regulated 

*  Since  the  revolution,  the  seat  of  government  has  been  removed 
to  Richmond,  a  town  situated  just  below  the  falls  of  James  river. 

f  Mr.  Ebeling,  of  Hamburg,  in  a  note  to  the  German  transla- 
tion of  this  work,  says,  "Virginia  is  situated  between  37  and  40 
"degrees  of  north  latitude,  and  extends  from  77  to  81  degrees  west 
"longitude  from  London;"  but  I  believe  he  is  mistaken,  for  the 
latest  and  best  maps  generally  agree  with  Mr.  Evans  in  regard 
to  the  situation  he  has  given  to  this  country;  at  least,  they  approxi- 
mate nearer  to  the  account  here  given  than  to  that  of  Mr.  Ebeling. 

}  See  Note  II. 

[35] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

by  the  winds,  is  exceedingly  variable.  Southerly 
winds  are  productive  of  heat,  northerly  of  cold,  and 
easterly  of  rain;  whence  it  is  no  uncommon  thing 
for  the  thermometer  to  fall  many  degrees  in  a  very 
few  hours;  and,  after  a  warm  day  to  have  such 
severe  cold  as  to  freeze  over  a  river  a  mile  broad  in 
one  night's  time.*  In  summer  there  are  frequent 
and  violent  gusts,  with  thunder  and  lightning;  but 
as  the  country  is  very  thinly  inhabited,  and  most  of 
the  gentry  have  electrical  rods  to  their  houses,  they 
are  not  attended  with  many  fatal  accidents.  Now 
and  then,  indeed,  some  of  the  negroes  lose  their 
lives;  and  it  is  not  uncommon  in  the  woods  to  see 
trees  torn  and  riven  to  pieces  by  their  fury  and  vio- 
lence. A  remarkable  circumstance  happened  some 
years  ago  at  York,  which  is  well  attested:  a  person 
standing  at  his  door  during  a  thunder  gust,  was  un- 
fortunately killed;  there  was  an  intermediate  tree 
at  some  distance,  which  was  struck  at  the  same  time; 
and  when  they  came  to  examine  the  body  they  found 
the  tree  delineated  upon  it  in  miniature.  Part  of 
the  body  was  livid,  but  that  which  was  covered  by 
the  tree  was  of  its  natural  colour.f 

I  believe  no  country  has  more  certainly  proved 

*  On  the  iQth  of  December,  1759,  being  upon  a  visit  to  Colonel 
Washington,  at  Mount  Vernon,  upon  the  river  Potomac,  where 
the  river  is  two  miles  broad,  I  was  greatly  surprised  to  find  it  en- 
tirely frozen  over  in  the  space  of  one  night,  when  the  preceding  day 
had  been  mild  and  temperate. 

f  I  have  related  this  circumstance  upon  the  authority  of  the 

[36] 


Virgin 


ima 

the  efficacy  of  electrical  rods,  than  this:  before  the 
discovery  of  them,  these  gusts  were  frequently  pro- 
ductive of  melancholy  consequences;  but  now  it  is 
rare  to  hear  of  such  instances.  It  is  observable  that 
no  house  was  ever  struck,  where  they  were  fixed: 
and  although  it  has  frequently  happened  that  the 
rods  themselves  have  been  melted,  or  broken  to 
pieces,  and  the  houses  scorched  or  discoloured  along 
the  sides  of  them,  which  manifested  that  they  had 
received  the  stroke,  but  that  the  quantity  of  light- 
ning was  too  great  to  be  carried  off  by  the  conductor, 
yet  never  has  any  misfortune  happened;  such  a 
direction  having  been  given  to  the  lightning  as  to 
prevent  any  danger  or  ill  consequence.  These  cir- 
cumstances, one  would  imagine,  should  induce  every 
person  to  get  over  those  prejudices  which  many  have 
entertained;  and  to  consider  the  neglect,  rather 
than  the  use,  of  them  as  criminal,  since  they  seem 
to  be  means  put  into  our  hands  by  Providence  for 
our  safety  and  protection. 

The  soil  of  Virginia  is  in  general  good.  There 
are  barrens  where  the  lands  produce  nothing  but 
pine  trees;  but  taking  the  whole  tract  together,  it  is 
certainly  fertile.  The  low  grounds  upon  the  rivers 
and  creeks  are  exceedingly  rich,  being  loam  inter- 
mingled with  sand:  and  the  higher  you  go  up  into 

Honourable  John  Blair,  President  of  the  Council  of  Virginia,  who 
mentioned  it  as  a  well-known  fact:  but  it  appears  so  improbable 
and  unphilosophical,  that  I  do  not  pledge  myself  for  the  truth  of  it. 

[37] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

the  country,  towards  the  mountains,  the  value  of  the 
land  increases;  for  it  grows  more  strong,  and  con- 
sists of  a  deeper  clay. 

Virginia,  in  its  natural  state,  produces  great 
quantities  of  fruits  and  medicinal  plants,  with  trees 
and  flowers  of  infinitely  various  kinds.  Tobacco 
and  Indian  corn  are  the  original  produce  of  the 
country;  likewise  the  pigeon-berry,  and  rattle-snake- 
root  so  esteemed  in  all  ulcerous  and  pleuritical  com- 
plaints: grapes,  strawberries,  hickory  nuts,  mul- 
berries, chestnuts,  and  several  other  fruits,  grow 
wild  and  spontaneously. 

Besides  trees  and  flowers  of  an  ordinary  nature, 
the  woods  produce  myrtles,  cedars,  cypresses,  sugar- 
trees,  firs  of  different  sorts,  and  no  less  than  seven 
or  eight  kinds  of  oak;  they  are  likewise  adorned  and 
beautified  with  red-flowering  maples,  sassafras-trees, 
dog-woods,  acacias,  red-buds,  scarlet-flowering  chest- 
nuts, fringe-trees,  flowering  poplars,  umbrellas,  mag- 
nolias, yellow  jasamines,  chamoedaphnes,  pacoons, 
atamusco-lilies,  May-apples,  and  innumerable  other 
sorts,  so  that  one  may  reasonably  assert  that  no  coun- 
try ever  appeared  with  greater  elegance  or  beauty.* 

Not  to  notice  too  the  almost  numberless  creeks 
and  rivulets  which  every  where  abound,  it  is  watered 
by  four  large  rivers  of  such  safe  navigation,  and  such 
noble  and  majestic  appearance,  as  cannot  be  ex- 
ceeded, perhaps,  in  the  whole  known  world. 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  I. 

[38] 


Virginia 

James  river,  which  was  formerly  called  Pow- 
hatan,  from  its  having  been  the  seat  of  that  emperor, 
is  seven  miles  broad  at  the  mouth,  navigable  to  the 
falls  (above  150  miles)  for  vessels  of  large  burden, 
and  thence  to  the  mountains  for  small  craft  and 
canoes. 

The  falls  are  in  length  about  six  or  seven  miles; 
they  consist  of  innumerable  breaks  of  water,  owing 
to  the  obstruction  of  the  current  by  an  infinite  num- 
ber of  rocks,  which  are  scattered  over  the  bed  of  the 
river;  and  form  a  most  picturesque  and  beautiful 
cascade. 

The  Honourable  Colonel  Byrd,*  has  a  small  place 
called  Belvedere,  upon  a  hill  at  the  lower  end  of 
these  falls,  as  romantic  and  elegant  as  any  thing  I 
have  ever  seen.  It  is  situated  very  high,  and  com- 
mands a  fine  prospect  of  the  river,  which  is  half  a 
mile  broad,  forming  cataracts  in  the  manner  above 
described;  there  are  several  little  islands  scattered 
carelessly  about,  very  rocky,  and  covered  with  trees; 
and  two  or  three  villagesf  in  view  at  a  small  dis- 
tance. Over  all  these  you  discover  a  prodigious 
extent  of  wilderness,  and  the  river  winding  majesti- 
cally along  through  the  midst  of  it. 

York  river,  for  about  forty  miles,  to  a  place  called 
West  Point,  is  confined  in  one  channel  about  two 
miles  broad:  it  flows  in  a  very  direct  course,  making 

*  See  Note  III. 

f  Amongst  the  rest,  Richmond,  the  present  seat  of  government. 

[39] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

but  one  angle,  and  that  an  inconsiderable  one,  dur- 
ing the  whole  way.  At  West  Point  it  forks,  and 
divides  itself  into  two  branches;  the  southward  called 
Pamunky;  the  northward  Mattapony:  each  of  these 
branches,  including  the  windings  and  meanders  of 
the  river,  is  navigable  seventy  or  eighty  miles,  and  a 
considerable  way  of  this  space  for  large  ships. 

The  Rappahannock  is  navigable  to  the  falls,  which 
are  a  mile  above  Fredericksburg,  and  about  no  from 
the  bay.  Vessels  of  large  burden  may  come  up  to 
this  place;  and  small  craft  and  canoes  may  be  carried 
up  much  higher. 

The  Potomac  is  one  of  the  finest  rivers  in  North 
America:  it  is*  ten  miles  broad  at  the  mouth,  navi- 
gable above  200  miles,  to  Alexandria,  for  men  of 
war;  and,  allowing  for  a  few  carrying  places,  for 
canoes  above  200  farther,  to  the  very  branches  of 
the  Ohio.  Colonel  Bouquet,f  a  Swiss  gentleman 
in  the  Royal  Americans,  came  down  this  autumn 
from  Fort  Cumberland  \  to  Shenandoah  with  very  little 

*  The  Potomac,  according  to  Mr.  Jefferson,  is  only  yj  miles 
broad  at  its  mouth,  and  perhaps  his  account  may  be  founded  upon 
better  authority  than  my  own.  I  had  no  opportunity  of  ascer- 
taining the  fact,  and  the  statement  which  I  have  made  rests  entirely 
upon  the  credibility  of  those  Virginian  gentlemen,  who  favoured 
me  with  the  information,  and  who,  I  am  persuaded,  did  not  inten- 
tionally mislead  me;  though  it  is  possible  they  might  be  mistaken. 

f  See  Note  IV. 

\  The  distance  from  Fort  Cumberland  to  Shenandoah  is  above 
100  miles;  from  Shenandoah  to  the  great  falls  about  60;  and  from 
the  great  falls  to  Alexandria  about  17  or  18. 

[40] 


Virginia 

difficulty;  whence  to  the  great  falls,  I  have  been  told, 
a  navigation  might  easily  be  effected:  so  that  this 
river  seems  to  promise  to  be  of  as  great  consequence 
as  any  in  North  America. 

In  all  these  rivers  the  tide  flows  as  far  as  the  falls, 
and  at  Alexandria  it  rises  between  two  and  three 
feet.  They  discharge  themselves  into  Chesapeake 
Bay,  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  which  runs  a  great 
way  up  the  country  into  Maryland;  is  from  ten  to 
twenty  miles  broad;  navigable  near  a  hundred 
leagues  for  vessels  of  almost  any  burden;  and  re- 
ceives into  its  bosom  at  least  twenty  great  rivers. 

These  waters  are  stored  with  incredible  quantities 
of  fish,  such  as  sheeps-heads,  rock-fish,  drums,  white 
perch,  herrings,  oysters,  crabs,  and  several  other 
sorts.  Sturgeon  and  shad  are  in  such  prodigious 
numbers,  that  one  day,  within  the  space  of  two  miles 
only,  some  gentlemen  in  canoes,  caught  above  600 
of  the  former  with  hooks,  which  they  let  down  to  the 
bottom,  and  drew  up  at  a  venture  when  they  per- 
ceived them  to  rub  against  a  fish;  and  of  the  latter 
above  5,000  have  been  caught  at  one  single  haul  of 
the  seine. 

In  the  mountains  there  are  very  rich  veins  of  ore; 
some  mines  having  been  already  opened  which  turn 
to  great  account;  particularly  Spotswood's  iron 
mines*  upon  the  Rappahannock,  out  of  which  they 
smelt  annually  above  six  hundred  ton:  and  one  of 

*  See  Note  V. 

[41] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

copper  upon  the  Roanoke,  belonging  to  Colonel 
Chiswell.  This  last  mentioned  gentleman  is  also 
going  to  try  for  lead  upon  some  hunting-grounds 
belonging  to  the  Indians,  towards  New  River,  and 
the  Green  Briar;  where,  it  is  said,  there  is  fine  ore, 
and  in  great  plenty,  lying  above  ground.  Some 
coal  mines  have  also  been  opened  upon  James 
river  near  the  falls,  which  are  likely  to  answer  very 
well. 

The  forests  abound  with  plenty  of  game  of  various 
kinds;  hares,  turkeys,  pheasants,  woodcocks,  and 
partridges  are  in  the  greatest  abundance.  In  the 
marshes  are  found  soruses,  a  particular  species  of 
bird,  more  exquisitely  delicious  than  the  ortolan; 
snipes  also,  and  ducks  of  various  kinds.  The 
American  shell-drake  and  blue-wing  exceed  all  of 
the  duck  kind  whatsoever;  and  these  are  in  prodi- 
gious numbers.  In  the  woods  there  are  variety  of 
birds  remarkable  both  for  singing  and  for  beauty; 
of  which  are  the  mocking-bird,  the  red-bird  or  night- 
ingale, the  blue-bird,  the  yellow-bird,  the  humming- 
bird*, the  Baltimore  bird,  the  summer-duck,  the 
turtle,  and  several  other  sorts. 

Insects  and  reptiles  are  almost  innumerable.  The 
variety  of  butterflies  is  not  greater  than  is  that  of  the 

*  The  humming-bird  is  the  smallest  and  most  beautiful  of  all 
the  feathered  race:  its  colours  are  green,  crimson,  and  gold;  it  lives 
chiefly  by  suction  upon  the  sweets  and  essences  of  flowers;  and 
nothing  can  be  more  curious  than  to  observe  numbers  of  them  in 
gardens,  where  there  are  honey-suckles  or  trumpet-flowers,  flying 

[42] 


Virginia 

rich  and  vivid  colours  with  which  each  particular 
species  is  distinguished  and  beautified;  and  such  is 
the  number  and  appearance  of  the  fire-flies,  that  on 
a  summer's  evening  the  whole  air  seems  to  glow 
and  to  be  enlightened  by  them.  Several  snakes  of 
this  country  are  harmless  and  beautiful;  such  as  the 
black  snake,  the  wampum-snake,  the  bead-snake, 
the  garter-snake,  and  some  others:  but  the  rattle- 
snake and  vipers  are  exceedingly  venomous  and 
deadly.  There  are  two  curious  species  of  frogs  here: 
one  is  called  the  bull-frog,  which  is  prodigiously 
large,  and  makes  so  loud  a  noise,  that  it  may  be  heard 
at  a  great  distance;  the  other  is  a  small  green  frog, 
which  sits  upon  the  boughs  of  trees,  and  is  found  in 
almost  every  garden. 

Of  quadrupeds  there  are  various  kinds;  squirrels 
of  four  or  five  different  species*,  opossums,  raccoons, 
foxes,  beavers,  and  deer:  and  in  the  deserts  and  un- 
inhabited parts,  wolves,  bears,  panthers,  elks  or 

and  sucking  out  the  sweetest  juices.  The  motion  of  their  wings 
is  incredibly  swift  and  produces  a  humming  noise,  not  unlike  that 
of  a  large  humble  bee.  They  are  frequently  kept  in  cages,  but 
seldom  live  longer  than  two  months.  The  food  which  is  given 
them,  is  either  honey  or  sugar,  mixed  with  water.  Repeated  at- 
tempts have  been  made  to  send  them  alive  to  England,  but  always 
without  success. 

*  Of  the  several  species  of  squirrels,  the  ground  and  flying 
squirrels  are  much  the  smallest  and  most  beautiful.  The  former 
are  of  a  dusky  orange  hue,  streaked  with  black;  the  latter  grey  or 
ash-coloured,  and  elegantly  formed.  These  have  a  spreading  or 
fan-tail,  and  two  membranes  adhering  to  their  sides;  which,  when 
they  spring  or  leap  from  a  tree,  they  expand,  and  are  thereby  en- 

[43] 


'Travels    Through   North   America 

moose  deer,  buffaloes,  mountain-cats,  and  various 
other  sorts.  Such  are  in  general  the  natural  pro- 
ductions of  this  country.* 

Viewed  and  considered  as  a  settlement,  Virginia 
is  far  from  being  arrived  at  that  perfection  of  which 
it  is  capable.  Not  a  tenth  of  the  land  is  yet  culti- 
vated: and  that  which  is  cultivated,  is  far  from  being 
so  in  the  most  advantageous  manner.  It  produces, 
however,  considerable  quantities  of  grain  and  cattle, 
and  fruit  of  many  kinds.  The  Virginian  pork  is 
said  to  be  superior  in  flavour  to  any  in  the  world; 
but  the  sheep  and  horned  cattle  being  small  and 
lean,  the  meat  of  them  is  inferior  to  that  of  Great 
Britain,  or  indeed,  of  most  parts  of  Europe.  The 
horses  are  fleet  and  beautiful;  and  the  gentlemen  of 
Virginia,  who  are  exceedingly  fond  of  horse-racing, 
have  spared  no  expence  or  trouble  to  improve  the 
breed  of  them  by  importing  great  numbers  from 
England. 

The  fruits  introduced  here  from  Europe  succeed 
extremely  well;  particularly  peaches,  which  have  a 
very  fine  flavour,  and  grow  in  such  plenty  as  to  serve 
to  feed  the  hogs  in  the  autumn  of  the  year.  Their 

abled  to  fly  through  a  considerable  space.  The  former  are  of  a 
very  wild  nature;  but  these  may  be  easily,  and  are  frequently 
tamed.  There  is  a  species  of  polecat  in  this  part  of  America, 
which  is  commonly  called  a  skunk.  This  animal,  when  pursued, 
or  assailed  by  its  enemy,  ejects  its  urine;  which  emits  such  a  fetid 
and  insupportable  stench,  as  almost  to  stifle  and  suffocate  what- 
ever is  within  the  reach  of  it. 
*  See  Appendix,  No.  i. 

[44] 


Virginia 

blossoms  in  the  spring  make  a  beautiful  appearance 
throughout  the  country. 

Virginia  is  divided  into  fifty-two  counties,  and 
seventy-seven  parishes,  and  by  act  of  assembly  there 
ought  to  be  forty-four  towns*;  but  one  half  of  these 
have  not  more  than  five  houses;  and  the  other  half 
are  little  better  than  inconsiderable  villages.  This 
is  owing  to  the  cheapness  of  land,  and  the  commo- 
diousness  of  navigation :  for  every  person  may  with 
ease  procure  a  small  plantation,  can  ship  his  tobacco 
at  his  own  door,  and  live  independent.  When  the 
colony  shall  come  to  be  more  thickly  seated,  and 
land  grow  dear,  people  will  be  obliged  to  follow 
trades  and  manufactures,  which  will  necessarily 
make  towns  and  large  cities;  but  this  seems  remote, 
and  not  likely  to  happen  for  some  centuries. 

The  inhabitants  are  supposed  to  be  in  number 
between  two  and  three  hundred  thousand.  There 
are  a  hundred  and  five  thousand  titheables,  under 
which  denomination  are  included  all  white  males 
from  sixteen  to  sixty;  and  all  negroes  whatsoever 
within  the  same  age.  The  former  are  obliged  to 
serve  in  the  militia,  and  amount  to  forty  thousand. 

The  trade  of  this  colony  is  large  and  extensive. 
Tobacco  is  the  principal  article  of  it.  Of  this  they 
export  annually  between  fifty  and  sixty  thousand 
hogsheads,  each  hogshead  weighing  eight  hundred 
or  a  thousand  weight;  some  years  they  export  much 

*  These  numbers  have  been  since  greatly  increased. 

[45] 


Travels    Through   North  America 

more.*  They  ship  also  for  the  Madeiras,  the 
Straits,  and  the  West  Indies,  several  articles,  such 
as  grain,  pork,  lumber,  and  cider:  to  Great  Britain, 
bar-iron,  indigo,  and  a  small  quantity  of  ginseng, 
though  of  an  inferior  quality;  and  they  clear  out  one 
year  with  another  about  fton  of  shipping. 

Their  manufactures  are  very  inconsiderable.  They 
make  a  kind  of  cotton  cloth,  with  which  they  clothe 
themselves  in  common,  and  call  after  the  name  of 
their  country;  and  some  inconsiderable  quantities 
of  linen,  hose,  and  other  trifling  articles:  but  nothing 
to  deserve  attention. 

The  government  is  a  royal  one:  the  legislature 
consisting  of  a  governor  appointed  by  the  king;  a 
council  of  twelve  persons,  under  the  same  nomina- 
tion; and  a  house  of  burgesses,  or  representatives, 
of  a  hundred  and  eight  or  ten  members,  elected  by 
the  people;  two  for  each  county,  and  one  for  each 
of  the  following  places,  viz.  the  College  of  William 
and  Mary,  Jamestown,  Norfolkborough,  and  Wil- 
liamsburg.  Each  branch  has  a  negative.  All  laws, 
in  order  to  be  permanent,  must  have  the  king's  ap- 
probation; nor  may  any  be  enacted,  which  are  re- 
pugnant to  the  laws  of  Great  Britain. 

The  courts  of  judicature  are  either  county,  or 
general  courts.  The  county  courts  are  held  monthly 

*  In  the  year  1758,  it  is  said  that  seventy  thousand  hogsheads 
were  exported. 

f  See  Appendix,  No.  2. 

[46] 


Virginia 

in  each  county,  at  a  place  assigned  for  that  purpose, 
by  the  justices  thereof;  four  of  them  making  a 
quorum.  They  are  appointed  by  the  governor,  and 
take  cognizance  of  all  causes,  at  common  law,  or  in 
chancery,  within  their  respective  counties,  except 
criminal  ones,  punishable  with  loss  of  life,  or  mem- 
ber. This  power  they  are  not  permitted  to  exercise 
except  over  negroes  and  slaves,  and  then  not  without 
a  special  commission  from  the  governor  for  each  par- 
ticular purpose.*  The  general  court  is  held  twice 
a  year  at  Williamsburg.  It  consists  of  the  governor 
and  council,  any  five  of  which  make  a  court.  They 
hear  and  determine  all  causes  whatsoever,  eccle- 
siastical or  civil,  and  sit  four  and  twenty  days:  the 
first  five  of  these  are  for  hearing  and  determining 
suits  in  chancery,  appeals  from  the  decrees  of  the 
county  or  inferior  courts  in  chancery;  and  writs  of 
supersedeas  to  such  decrees.  The  other  days  are 
for  trying  suits  or  prosecutions  in  behalf  of  the  king; 
and  all  other  matters  depending  in  the  said  court; 
appeals  are  allowed  to  the  king  in  council,  in  cases 

*  How  necessary  it  may  be  that  they  should  have  such  a  power, 
even  in  this  case,  I  will  not  pretend  to  say;  but  the  law  which  trans- 
fers it  to  them  seems  so  inconsistent  with  the  natural  rights  of  man- 
kind, that  I  cannot  but  in  pity  to  humanity  recite  it. 

"Every  slave  committing  any  offence,  by  law  punishable  by 
'death,  or  loss  of  member,  shall  be  committed  to  the  county  gaol, 
'and  the  sheriff  of  the  county  shall  forthwith  certify  such  com- 
'mitment,  with  the  cause  thereof,  to  the  governor,  or  commander 
'in  chief,  who  may  issue  a  commission  of  oyer  and  terminer  to 
'such  persons  as  he  shall  think  fit,  which  persons,  forthwith  after 
'the  receipt  of  such  commission,  shall  cause  the  offender  to  be 

[47] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

of  500  1.  sterling  value.  The  governor  has  a  power 
of  pardoning  criminals  in  all  cases,  except  of  treason 
or  murder:  and  then  he  can  only  reprieve  till  he 
knows  the  king's  pleasure. 

The  established  religion  is  that  of  the  Church  of 
England;  and  there  are  very  few  Dissenters  of  any 
denomination  in  this  province.  There  are  at  present 
between  sixty  and  seventy  clergymen;  men  in  general 
of  sober  and  exemplary  lives.  They  have  each  a 
glebe  of  two  or  three  hundred  acres  of  land,  a  house, 
and  a  salary  established  by  law  of  16,000  weight  of 
tobacco,  with  an  allowance  of  1,700  more  for  shrink- 
age. This  is  delivered  to  them  in  hogsheads  ready 
packed  for  exportation,  at  the  most  convenient  ware- 
house. The  presentation  of  livings  is  in  the  hands 
of  the  vestry,  which  is  a  standing  body  of  twelve 
members  invested  with  the  sole  power  of  raising 
levies,  settling  the  repairs  of  the  church,  and  regu- 
lating other  parochial  business.  They  were  origi- 
nally elected  by  the  people  of  the  several  parishes; 
but  now  fill  up  vacancies  themselves.  If  the  vestry 
does  not  present  to  a  living  in  less  than  twelve  months, 

'publicly  arraigned  and  tried  at  the  court-house  of  the  said  county, 
'and  take  for  evidence  the  confession  of  the  offender,  the  oath  of 
'one  or  more  credible  witnesses,  or  such  testimony  of  negroes, 
'mulattoes  or  Indians,  bond  or  free,  with  pregnant  circumstances 
'as  to  them  shall  seem  convincing,  without  the  solemnity  of  a  jury, 
'and  the  offender  being  found  guilty,  shall  pass  such  judgment 
1  upon  him  or  her  as  the  law  directs  for  the  like  crimes,  and  on 
*  such  judgment  award  execution." 

—  Mercer's  Abridgment  of  the  Virginian  Laws,  p.  342. 

[48] 


Virginia 

it  lapses  to  the  governor.  The  diocesan  is  the  bishop 
of  London;  who  has  a  power  of  appointing  a  com- 
missary to  preside  over,  and  convene  the  clergy  on 
particular  occasions;  and  to  censure,  or  even  suspend 
them,  in  cases  of  neglect  or  immorality.  His  salary 
is  100  1.  sterling  per  annum;  and  he  is  generally  of 
the  council,  which  is  of  equal  emolument  to  him.* 

An  unhappy  disagreement  has  lately  arisen  be- 
tween the  clergy  and  the  laity,  which,  it  is  to  be 
feared,  may  be  of  serious  consequence.  The  cause 
of  it  was  this:  Tobacco  being  extremely  scarce 
from  a  general  failure  of  the  crop,  the  assembly 
passed  an  act  to  oblige  the  clergy  and  all  public 
officers  to  receive  their  stipends  in  money  instead 
of  tobacco.  This  the  clergy  remonstrated  against, 
alleging  the  hardship  of  being  obliged  to  take  a 
small  price  for  their  tobacco,  when  it  bore  an  ex- 
travagant one;  seeing  they  never  had  any  kind  of 
compensation  allowed  when  it  was  so  plentiful  as 
to  be  almost  a  drug.  They  sent  over  an  agent  to 
England,  and  the  law  was  repealed.  This  greatly 
exasperated  the  people;  and  such  is  their  mutual 
animosity  at  this  time,  that,  I  fear,  it  will  not  easily 
subside,  or  be  forgotten. f 

With  regard  to  the  law  in  question,  it  was  certainly 

*  The  commissary  is  commonly  president  of  the  college,  and  has 
the  parish  of  Williamsburg,  or  some  other  lucrative  parish,  which 
render  him  about  350  1.  a  year:  so  that  his  annual  income  is  be- 
tween 5  and  600  1. 

f  See  Note  VI. 

[49] 


Travels   Through  North   America 

a  very  hard  one;  and  I  doubt  whether,  upon  prin- 
ciples of  free  government,  it  can  be  justified;  or 
whether  the  assembly  can  legally  interpose  any 
farther,  than,  in  cases  of  necessity,  to  oblige  the 
clergy  to  receive  their  salaries  in  money  instead  of 
tobacco,  at  the  current  price  of  tobacco.  They  may, 
I  am  persuaded,  in  cases  of  exigency,  always  make, 
and  might  then  have  made,  such  a  law,  without  any 
considerable  detriment  to  the  colony:  for,  supposing 
the  price  of  tobacco  to  be,  what  it  was  at  that  time, 
about  fifty  shillings  currency  per  hundred,  what 
would  the  whole  sum  be,  were  the  clergy  to  be  paid 
ad  valorem  ?  Not  20,200  1.  sterling.  There  are  in 
Virginia,  as  I  observed  before,  about  sixty-five 
clergymen;  each  of  these  is  allowed  16,000  weight 
of  tobacco;  which,  at  the  rate  of  fifty  shillings  cur- 
rency per  hundred,  amounts  to  400  1.;  400  1.  mul- 
tiplied by  65,  is  equal  to  26,000;  which,  allowing  40 
per  cent,  discount,  the  difference  of  exchange,  is 
about  18,571  1.  sterling.  Now  what  is  this  sum  to 
such  a  colony  as  Virginia  ?  But  to  this  it  will  be 
said,  perhaps,  why  should  the  clergy  be  gainers  in  a 
time  of  public  distress,  when  every  one  else  is  a  suf- 
ferer ?  The  clergy  will  doubtless  reply,  and  why 
should  the  clergy  be  the  only  sufferers  in  plentiful 
seasons,  when  all  but  themselves  are  gainers  ? 
However,  as  on  the  one  hand  I  disapprove  of  the 
proceedings  of  the  assembly  in  this  affair;  so,  on  the 
other,  I  cannot  approve  of  the  steps  which  were  taken 

[50] 


Virginia 

by  the  clergy:  that  violence  of  temper;  that  disre- 
spectful behaviour  towards  the  governor;  that  un- 
worthy treatment  of  their  commissary;  and,  to  men- 
tion nothing  else,  that  confusion  of  proceeding  in 
the  convention,  of  which  some,  though  not  the  ma- 
jority, as  has  been  invidiously  represented,  were 
guilty;  these  things  were  surely  unbecoming  the 
sacred  character  they  are  invested  with;  and  the 
moderation  of  those  persons,  who  ought  in  all  things 
to  imitate  the  conduct  of  their  divine  Master.  If, 
instead  of  flying  out  in  invectives  against  the  legis- 
lature; of  accusing  the  governor  of  having  given  up 
the  cause  of  religion  by  passing  the  bill;  when,  in 
fact,  had  he  rejected  it,  he  would  never  have  been 
able  to  have  got  any  supplies  during  the  course  of 
the  war,  though  ever  so  much  wanted;  if,  instead 
of  charging  the  commissary  with  want  of  zeal  for 
having  exhorted  them  to  moderate  measures,  they 
had  followed  the  prudent  councils  of  that  excellent 
man,  and  had  acted  with  more  temper  and  modera- 
tion, they  might,  I  am  persuaded,  in  a  very  short 
time,  have  obtained  any  redress  they  could  reason- 
ably have  desired.  The  people  in  general  were  ex- 
tremely well  affected  towards  the  clergy,  and  had 
expressed  their  regard  for  them  in  several  instances; 
they  were  sensible,  moreover,  that  their  salaries 
were  too  scanty  to  support  them  with  dignity,  and 
there  had  been  some  talk  about  raising  them:  had 
the  clergy  therefore,  before  they  applied  to  England, 


Travels    Through   North   America 

only  offered  a  memorial  to  the  assembly,  setting 
forth  that  they  thought  the  act  extremely  hard  upon 
them,  as  their  salaries  were  small;  and  that  they 
hoped  the  assembly  would  take  their  case  into  con- 
sideration, and  enable  them  to  live  with  that  decency 
which  became  their  character;  I  am  persuaded,  from 
the  knowledge  which  I  have  of  the  people  in  general, 
and  from  repeated  conversations  with  several  mem- 
bers of  the  assembly,  that  they  might  have  obtained 
almost  any  thing  they  could  have  wished;  if  not, 
they  undoubtedly  would  have  had  reason  to  appeal. 
But,  instead  of  this,  without  applying  to  the  as- 
sembly for  relief,  after  the  act  was  passed,  (for  be- 
fore, indeed,  some  of  them  did  apply  to  the  speaker 
in  private)  they  flew  out  into  the  most  violent  in- 
vectives, immediately  sent  over  an  agent  to  England, 
and  appealed  to  his  majesty  in  council.  The  result 
has  been  already  related. 

The  progress  of  arts  and  sciences  in  this  colony 
has  been  very  inconsiderable:  the  college  of  William 
and  Mary  is  the  only  public  place  of  education,  and 
this  has  by  no  means  answered  the  design  of  its  in- 
stitution. It  has  a  foundation  for  a  president  and 
six  professors.  The  business  of  the  president  is  to 
superintend  the  whole,  and  to  read  four  theological 
lectures  annually.  He  has  a  handsome  house  to 
live  in,  and  200  1.  sterling  per  annum.  The  pro- 
fessor of  the  Indian  school  has  60  1.  sterling,  and  a 
house  also;  his  business  is  to  instruct  the  Indians  in 

[5*1 


Virginia 

reading,  writing,  and  the  principles  of  the  Christian 
religion:  this  pious  institution  was  set  on  foot  and 
promoted  by  the  excellent  Mr.  Boyle.*  The  pro- 
fessor of  humanity  has  the  care  of  instructing  the 
students  in  classical  learning:  he  has  an  usher  or 
assistant  under  him.  The  four  other  professors 
teach  moral  philosophy,  metaphysics,  mathematics, 
and  divinity.  Each  of  the  professors  has  apartments 
in  the  college,  and  a  salary  of  about  80  1.  per  annum. f 
The  present  chancellor  of  the  college  is  the  bishop 
of  London. 

From  what  has  been  said  of  this  colony,  it  will 
not  be  difficult  to  form  an  idea  of  the  character^:  of 
its  inhabitants.  The  climate  and  external  appear- 
ance of  the  country  conspire  to  make  them  indolent, 
easy,  and  good  natured;  extremely  fond  of  society, 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  3. 

t  They  have  since  been  raised,  I  believe,  to  100  I. 

|  General  characters  are  always  liable  to  many  exceptions.  In 
Virginia,  I  have  had  the  pleasure  to  know  several  gentlemen 
adorned  with  many  virtues  and  accomplishments,  to  whom  the 
following  description  is  by  no  means  applicable.  Amongst  others, 
I  cannot  resist  the  inclination  of  mentioning  George  Wythe,  Es- 
quire, who,  to  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  Greek  language,  which 
was  taught  him  by  his  mother  in  the  back  woods,  and  of  the  ancient, 
particularly  the  Platonic  philosophy,  had  joined  such  a  profound 
reverence  for  the  Supreme  Being,  such  respect  for  the  divine  laws, 
such  philanthropy  for  mankind,  such  simplicity  of  manners,  and 
such  inflexible  rectitude  and  integrity  of  principle,  as  would  have 
dignified  a  Roman  senator,  even  in  the  most  virtuous  times  of  the 
republic.  This  gentleman  is,  I  believe,  still  living.^J 

U  See  Note  VII. 

[53] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

and  much  given  to  convivial  pleasures.  In  conse- 
quence of  this,  they  seldom  show  any  spirit  of  enter- 
prise, or  expose  themselves  willingly  to  fatigue. 
Their  authority  over  their  slaves  renders  them  vain 
and  imperious,  and  entire  strangers  to  that  elegance 
of  sentiment,  which  is  so  peculiarly  characteristic 
of  refined  and  polished  nations.  Their  ignorance 
of  mankind  and  of  learning,  exposes  them  to  many 
errors  and  prejudices,  especially  in  regard  to  In- 
dians and  negroes,  whom  they  scarcely  consider  as 
of  the  human  species;  so  that  it  is  almost  impossible, 
in  cases  of  violence,  or  even  murder,  committed  upon 
those  unhappy  people  by  any  of  the  planters,  to 
have  the  delinquents  brought  to  justice:  for  either 
the  grand  jury  refuse  to  find  the  bill,  or  the  petit 
jury  bring  in  their  verdict,  not  guilty.* 

*  There  are  two  laws  in  this  colony,  which  make  it  almost  im- 
possible to  convict  a  planter,  or  white  man,  of  the  death  of  a  negro 
or  Indian.  By  the  first  it  is  enacted,  that  "if  any  slave  shall  die 
"by  reason  of  any  stroke  or  blow,  given  in  correction  by  his  or  her 
"owner,  or  by  reason  of  any  accidental  blow  whatsoever,  given 
"by  such  owner;  no  person  concerned  in  such  correction,  or  acci- 
dental homicide,  shall  undergo  any  prosecution  or  punishment 
"for  the  same;  unless,  upon  examination  before  the  county  court, 
"it  shall  be  proved  by  the  oath  of  one  lawful  and  credible  witness, 
"at  least,  that  such  slave  was  killed  wilfully,  maliciously,  and  de- 
"signedly;  nor  shall  any  person  indicted  for  the  murder  of  a  slave, 
"and  upon  trial  found  guilty  only  of  manslaughter,  incur  any  for- 
feiture or  punishment  for  such  offence  or  misfortune."  See 
Mercer's  Abridgment,  p.  345.  By  the  second,  "No  negro, 
"mulatto,  or  Indian,  can  be  admitted  into  any  court,  or  before 
"any  magistrate,  to  be  sworn  as  a  witness,  or  give  evidence  in  any 
"cause  whatsoever,  except  upon  the  trial  of  a  slave  for  a  capital 
" offence."  Mercer's  Abridgment,  p.  419. 

[54] 


Virginia 

The  display  of  a  character  thus  constituted,  will 
naturally  be  in  acts  of  extravagance,  ostentation, 
and  a  disregard  of  economy;  it  is  not  extraordinary 
therefore,  that  the  Virginians  outrun  their  incomes; 
and  that  having  involved  themselves  in  difficulties, 
they  are  frequently  tempted  to  raise  money  by  bills 
of  exchange,  which  they  know  will  be  returned  pro- 
tested, with  10  per  cent,  interest.* 

The  public  or  political  character  of  the  Virginians 
corresponds  with  their  private  one:  they  are  haughty 
and  jealous  of  their  liberties,  impatient  of  restraint, 
and  can  scarcely  bear  the  thought  of  being  controuled 
by  any  superior  power.  Many  of  them  consider  the 

*  By  an  act  of  assembly,  if  any  bill  of  exchange  is  drawn  for  the 
payment  of  any  sum  of  money,  and  such  bill  is  protested  for  non- 
payment, it  carries  interest  from  the  date  thereof,  after  the  rate  of 
10  per  cent,  per  annum,  until  the  money  be  fully  satisfied  and  paid. 

A  very  curious  anecdote  relative  to  this  law  was  mentioned  to  me 
at  Williamsburg,  of  which  I  am  persuaded  the  reader  will  excuse 
the  relation.  An  usurer,  not  satisfied  with  5  1.  per  cent,  legal  in- 
terest, refused  to  advance  a  sum  of  money  to  a  gentleman,  unless, 
by  way  of  security,  he  would  give  him  a  bill  of  exchange  that  should 
be  returned  protested,  by  which  he  would  be  entitled  to  10  per  cent. 
The  gentleman,  who  had  immediate  occasion  for  the  money,  drew 
a  bill  upon  a  capital  merchant  in  London,  with  whom  he  had  never 
had  any  transaction,  or  carried  on  the  least  correspondence.  The 
merchant,  on  the  receipt  of  the  bill,  observing  the  name  of  the 
drawer,  very  readily  honoured  it,  knowing  the  gentleman  to  be  a 
person  of  great  property,  and  concluding  that  he  meant  to  enter 
into  correspondence  with  him.  The  usurer  upon  this  became  en- 
titled to  only  5  1.  per  cent.  He  was  exceedingly  enraged,  there- 
fore, at  being,  as  he  supposed,  thus  tricked:  and  complained  very 
heavily  to  the  gentleman  of  his  having  given  him  a  good  bill  in- 
stead of  a  bad  one. 

[55] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

colonies  as  independent  states,  not  connected  with 
Great  Britain,  otherwise  than  by  having  the  same 
common  king,  and  being  bound  to  her  by  natural 
affection.  There  are  but  few  of  them  that  have  a 
turn  for  business,  and  even  those  are  by  no  means 
expert  at  it.  I  have  known  them,  upon  a  very 
urgent  occasion,  vote  the  relief  of  a  garrison, 
without  once  considering  whether  the  thing  was  prac- 
ticable, when  it  was  most  evidently  and  demonstra- 
bly  otherwise.*  In  matters  of  commerce  they  are 
ignorant  of  the  necessary  principles  that  must  pre- 
vail between  a  colony  and  the  mother  country;  they 
think  it  a  hardship  not  to  have  an  unlimited  trade 
to  every  part  of  the  world.  They  consider  the  duties 
upon  their  staple  as  injurious  only  to  themselves; 

*  The  garrison  here  alluded  to,  was  that  of  Fort  Loudoun,  in  the 
Cherokee  country,  consisting  of  a  lieutenant,  and  about  fifty  men. 
This  unfortunate  party  being  besieged  by  the  Cherokee  Indians, 
and  reduced  to  the  last  extremity,  sent  off  runners  to  the  governors 
of  Virginia  and  Carolina,  imploring  immediate  succour;  adding, 
that  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  hold  out  above  twenty  days 
longer.  The  assembly  of  Virginia,  commiserating  their  unhappy 
situation,  very  readily  voted  a  considerable  sum  for  their  relief. 
With  this,  troops  were  to  be  levied;  were  to  rendezvous  upon  the 
frontiers  200  miles  distant  from  Williamsburg;  were  afterward  to 
proceed  to  the  fort  200  miles  farther  through  a  wilderness,  where 
there  was  no  road,  no  magazines,  no  posts,  either  to  shelter  the 
sick,  or  cover  a  retreat  in  case  of  any  disaster;  so  that  the  unfor- 
tunate garrison  might  as  effectually  have  been  succoured  from  the 
moon.  The  author  taking  notice  of  these  difficulties  to  one  of  the 
members,  he  frankly  replied,  "  Faith,  it  is  true:  but  we  have  had  an 
opportunity  at  least  of  showing  our  loyalty."  In  a  few  days 
after  arrived  the  melancholy  news,  that  this  unfortunate  party  was 
entirely  cut  off. 

[56] 


Virginia 

and  it  is  utterly  impossible  to  persuade  them  that 
they  affect  the  consumer  also.  However,  to  do  them 
justice,  the  same  spirit  of  generosity  prevails  here 
which  does  in  their  private  character;  they  never 
refuse  any  necessary  supplies  for  the  support  of 
government  when  called  upon,  and  are  a  generous 
and  loyal  people. 

The  women  are,  generally  speaking,  handsome, 
though  not  to  be  compared  with  our  fair  country- 
women in  England.  They  have  but  few  advan- 
tages, and  consequently  are  seldom  accomplished; 
this  makes  them  reserved,  and  unequal  to  any  in- 
teresting or  refined  conversation.  They  are  im- 
moderately fond  of  dancing,  and  indeed  it  is  almost 
the  only  amusement  they  partake  of:  but  even  in 
this  they  discover  want  of  taste  and  elegance,  and 
seldom  appear  with  that  gracefulness  and  ease, 
which  these  movements  are  calculated  to  display. 
Towards  the  close  of  an  evening,  when  the  company 
are  pretty  well  tired  with  country  dances,  it  is  usual 
to  dance  jigs;  a  practice  originally  borrowed,  I  am 
informed,  from  the  negroes.*  These  dances  are 
without  method  or  regularity:  a  gentleman  and  lady 
stand  up,  and  dance  about  the  room,  one  of  them 
retiring,  the  other  pursuing,  then  perhaps  meeting, 
in  an  irregular  fantastical  manner.  After  some 

*  The  author  has  since  had  an  opportunity  of  observing  some- 
thing similar  in  Italy.  The  trescone  of  the  Tuscans  is  very  like 
the  jigs  of  the  Virginians. 

[57] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

time,  another  lady  gets  up,  and  then  the  first  lady 
must  sit  down,  she  being,  as  they  term  it,  cut  out: 
the  second  lady  acts  the  same  part  which  the  first 
did,  till  somebody  cuts  her  out.  The  gentlemen 
perform  in  the  same  manner.  The  Virginian  ladies, 
excepting  these  amusements,  and  now  and  then 
going  upon  a  party  of  pleasure  into  the  woods  to 
partake  of  a  barbecue,*  chiefly  spend  their  time  in 
sewing  and  taking  care  of  their  families:  they  seldom 
read,  or  endeavour  to  improve  their  minds;  how- 
ever, they  are  in  general  good  housewives;  and 
though  they  have  not,  I  think,  quite  so  much  tender- 
ness and  sensibility  as  the  English  ladies,  yet  they 
make  as  good  wives,  and  as  good  mothers,  as  any  in 
the  world. 

It  is  hard  to  determine  whether  this  colony  can 
be  called  flourishing,  or  not;  because  though  it  pro- 
duces great  quantities  of  tobacco  and  grain,  yet 
there  seem  to  be  very  few  improvements  carrying  on 
in  it.  Great  part  of  Virginia  is  a  wilderness,  and  as 

*  Mons.  de  Willd,  in  his  French  translation  of  these  travels, 
makes  the  following  observation  upon  the  word,  barbecue: 

"Get  amusement  barbare  consiste  a  fouetter  les  pores  jusqu'a 
"la  mort,  pour  en  rendre  la  chair  plus  delicate.  Je  ne  sache  pas 
"que  les  cannibales  meme  le  pratiquent." 

In  justice  to  the  inhabitants  of  Virginia,  I  must  beg  leave  to 
observe,  that  such  a  cruel  and  inhuman  act  was  never,  to  my 
knowledge  at  least,  practised  in  that  country.  A  barbecue  is 
nothing  more  than  a  porker,  killed  in  the  usual  way,  stuffed  with 
spices  and  other  rich  ingredients,  and  basted  with  Madeira  wine. 
It  is  esteemed  a  very  great  delicacy;  and  is,  I  believe,  a  costly  dish. 

[58J 


Virginia 

many  of  the  gentlemen  are  in  possession  of  immense 
tracts  of  land,  it  is  likely  to  continue  so.  A  spirit 
of  enterprise  is  by  no  means  the  turn  of  the  colony, 
and  therefore  few  attempts  have  been  made  to  force 
a  trade;  which  I  think  might  easily  be  done,  both  to 
the  West  Indies  and  the  Ohio.  They  have  every 
thing  necessary  for  such  an  undertaking;  viz.  lumber, 
provisions,  grain,  and  every  other  commodity,  which 
the  other  colonies,  that  subsist  and  grow  rich  by 
these  means,  make  use  of  for  exports;  but,  instead  of 
this,  they  have  only  a  trifling  communication  with 
the  West  Indies;  and  as  to  the  Ohio,  they  have  suf- 
fered themselves,  notwithstanding  the  superior  ad- 
vantages they  might  enjoy  from  having  a  water 
carriage  almost  to  the  Youghiogheny,  to  neglect  this 
valuable  branch  of  commerce;  while  the  industrious 
Pennsylvanians  seize  every  opportunity,  and  struggle 
with  innumerable  difficulties  to  secure  it  to  them- 
selves. The  Virginians  are  content  if  they  can  but 
live  from  day  to  day;  they  confine  themselves  almost 
entirely  to  the  cultivation  of  tobacco;  and  if  they  have 
but  enough  of  this  to  pay  their  merchants  in  London, 
and  to  provide  for  their  pleasures,  they  are  satisfied, 
and  desire  nothing  more.  Some  few,  indeed,  have 
been  rather  more  enterprising,  and  have  endeav- 
oured to  improve  their  estates  by  raising  indigo,  and 
other  schemes :  but  whether  it  has  been  owing  to  the 
climate,  to  their  inexperience  in  these  matters,  or 
their  want  of  perseverance,  I  am  unable  to  deter- 

[59] 


Travels    Through   North  America 

mine,  but  their  success  has  not  answered  their  ex- 
pectations. 

The  taxes  of  this  colony  are  considerable,  and  the 
public  debt  amounts  to  at  least  400,000  1.  currency; 
this  they  have  been  driven  into  by  the  war,  having 
seldom  had  less  than  a  thousand  or  fifteen  hundred 
provincial  troops  in  pay,  exclusive  of  the  expenses 
of  some  forts.  The  ways  and  means  employed  for 
raising  the  money  have  been  generally  the  same: 
they  have  first  made  an  emission  of  so  much  paper 
currency  as  the  exigency  required,  and  then  laid  a 
tax  for  sinking  it.  This  tax  has  been  commonly 
upon  lands  and  negroes,  two  shillings  for  every 
titheable;  and  a  shilling  or  eighteen-pence  upon 
every  hundred  acres  of  land.  This  mode  of  taxa- 
tion has  occasioned  some  divisions  in  the  house;  for 
the  owners  of  large  tracts  being  unable,  perhaps,  to 
cultivate  a  tenth  part  of  their  possessions,  and  every 
man's  real  income  arising  from  the  number  of  his 
negroes,  have  thought  it  very  hard  to  pay  a  tax  for 
what  they  pretend  is  of  no  value  to  them:  but  much 
better  arguments  may  undoubtedly  be  urged  in  sup- 
port of  the  tax  than  against  it. 

The  taxes  for  the  present  debt  are  laid  till  the 
year  sixty-nine,  when  the  whole,  if  they  add  nothing 
more  to  it,  will  be  discharged.  The  use  of  paper 
currency  in  this  colony  has  entirely  banished  from 
it  gold  and  silver.  Indeed,  the  introduction  of  it 
was  certain  in  time  to  produce  this  effect;  but  lest 

[60] 


Virginia 

it  should  not,  the  Virginians  fell  into  a  measure, 
which  completed  it  at  once:  for  by  an  act  of  assembly 
they  fixed  the  exchange  between  currency  and  ster- 
ling debts  at  five  and  twenty  per  cent,  not  consider- 
ing that  the  real  value  of  their  currency  could  only 
be  regulated  by  itself.  The  consequence  was,  that 
when  from  frequent  emissions,  the  difference  of  ex- 
change between  bills  upon  merchants  in  London 
and  currency  was  40  per  cent.,  the  difference  be- 
tween currency  and  specie*  was  only  five  and  twenty. 
So  that  the  moneyed  men  collected  all  the  specie  they 
could,  sent  it  to  Philadelphia,  where  it  passed  for  its 
real  value,  purchased  bills  of  exchange  with  it  there, 
and  sold  them  again  in  Virginia  with  fifteen  per  cent, 
profit:  and  this  they  continued  to  do  till  there  was 
not  a  pistole  or  a  dollar  remaining. 

During  my  stay  in  Virginia,  I  made  several  ex- 
cursions into  different  parts  of  the  country:  one  in 
particular  to  the  great  falls  of  Potomac;  of  which, 
as  I  expected  to  be  highly  entertained,  I  kept  a 
journal. 

I  departed  from  Williamsburg,  Oct.  i,  1759,  in 
company  with  another  gentleman  ;f  and  we  travelled 
that  day  about  forty  miles,  to  a  plantation  £  in  King 

*  Fixing  the  difference  between  currency  and  sterling  debts, 
was,  in  reality,  fixing  it  between  currency  and  specie. 

f  Col.  Bernard  Moore. 

\  Belonging  to  Col.  Symes.  This  gentleman's  lady,  a  very 
beautiful  woman,  was  said  to  have  just  attained  her  2ist  year. 

[6,] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

William  county,  beautifully  situated  upon  a  high 
hill,  on  the  north  side  of  Pamunky  river.  A  little 
below  this  place  stands  the  Pamunky  Indian  town, 
where  at  present  are  the  few  remaining  of  that  large 
tribe,  the  rest  having  dwindled  away  through  in- 
temperance and  disease.  They  live  in  little  wig- 
wams or  cabins  upon  the  river;  and  have  a  very  fine 
tract  of  land  of  about  2,000  acres,  which  they  are 
restrained  from  alienating  by  act  of  assembly.  Their 
employment  is  chiefly  hunting  or  fishing  for  the 
neighboring  gentry.  They  commonly  dress  like  the 
Virginians,  and  I  have  sometimes  mistaken  them 
for  the  lower  sort  of  that  people.*  The  night  I  spent 
here,  they  went  out  into  an  adjoining  marsh  to 
catch  soruses;  and  one  of  them,  as  I  was  informed 
in  the  morning,  caught  near  a  hundred  dozen.  The 
manner  of  taking  these  birds  is  remarkable.  The 
sorus  is  not  known  to  be  in  Virginia,  except  for  about 
six  weeks  from  the  latter  end  of  September:  at  that 
time  they  are  found  in  the  marshes  in  prodigious 
numbers,  feeding  upon  the  wild  oats.  At  first  they 
are  exceedingly  lean,  but  in  a  short  time  grow  so  fat, 
as  to  be  unable  to  fly:  in  this  state  they  lie  upon  the 
reeds,  and  the  Indians  go  out  in  canoes  and  knock 
them  on  the  head  with  their  paddles.  They  are 

She  was  at  that  time  the  mother  of  seven  children,  all  living.  The 
women  in  general,  in  this  country,  arrive  at  maturity  very  early. 
Some  are  marriageable  at  eleven,  many  at  thirteen,  and  the  gen- 
erality at  fourteen  or  fifteen  years  of  age. 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  3. 


Falls  of  Rappahannock 

rather  bigger  than  a  lark,  and  are  delicious  eating. 
During  the  time  of  their  continuing  in  season,  you 
meet  with  them  at  the  tables  of  most  of  the  planters, 
breakfast,  dinner  and  supper.* 

Oct.  2.  We  went  to  another  plantation  about 
twenty-four  miles  distant,  belonging  to  a  private 
gentleman,f  upon  Mattapony  river.  We  staid  there 
all  that  and  the  next  day  on  account  of  rain. 

Oct.  4.  We  traveled  twenty-five  miles  to  another 
gentleman's  \  house;  and  from  thence,  the  day  fol- 
lowing, about  twenty-five  miles  farther,  to  a  town 
called  Fredericksburg. 

Fredericksburg  is  situated  about  a  mile  below  the 
Falls  of  Rappahannock:  it  is  regularly  laid  out,  as 
most  of  the  towns  in  Virginia  are,  in  parallel  streets. 
Part  of  it  is  built  upon  an  eminence,  and  commands 
a  delightful  prospect;  the  rest  upon  the  edge  of  the 
water  for  the  convenience  of  warehouses.  The 
town  was  begun  about  thirty-two  years  ago,  for  the 
sake  of  carrying  on  a  trade  with  the  back-settlers; 
and  is  at  present  by  far  the  most  flourishing  one  in 
these  parts. 

*  In  several  parts  of  Virginia  the  ancient  custom  of  eating  meat 
at  breakfast  still  continues.  At  the  top  of  the  table,  where  the 
lady  of  the  house  presides,  there  is  constantly  tea  and  coffee;  but 
the  rest  of  the  table  is  garnished  with  roasted  fowls,  ham,  venison, 
game,  and  other  dainties.  Even  at  Williamsburg,  it  is  the  custom 
to  have  a  plate  of  cold  ham  upon  the  table;  and  there  is  scarcely 
a  Virginian  lady  who  breakfasts  without  it. 

f  Major  Henry  Gaines. 
\  Col.  Bailors. 

[63] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

We  left  Fredericksburg  the  6th  instant,  and  went 
to  see  the  Falls.  At  this  place  is  a  small  mercantile 
town  called  Falmouth,  whose  inhabitants  are  en- 
deavouring to  rival  the  Fredericksburghers  in  their 
trade.  It  is  built  upon  the  north  side  of  the  river, 
and  consists  of  eighteen  or  twenty  houses. 

The  Falls  of  Rappahannock  are  similar  to  those  of 
James  river,  except  that  they  are  not  upon  so  large 
a  scale.  The  whole  range  scarcely  exceeds  half  a 
mile,  and  the  breadth  not  a  hundred  yards.  At  the 
time  of  our  going  to  see  them,  there  was  a  fresh  in 
the  river,  which  added  very  much  to  their  beauty. 
The  center  of  view  was  an  island  of  about  an  hun- 
dred acres  covered  with  trees;  this  divided  the  river 
into  two  branches,  in  each  of  which,  at  regular  dis- 
tances of  fifteen  or  twenty  yards,  was  a  chain  of  six 
or  seven  falls,  one  above  another,  the  least  of  them 
a  foot  perpendicular.  The  margin  was  beautifully 
variegated  with  rocks  and  trees,  and  the  whole 
formed  a  pleasing  romantic  scene. 

At  this  place  we  met  with  a  person  who  informed 
us  of  his  having  been,  a  few  days  before,  a  spectator 
of  that  extraordinary  phenomenon  in  nature,  the 
fascinating  power  of  the  rattle-snake.  He  observed 
one  lying  coiled  near  a  tree,  looking  directly  at  a  bird 
which  had  settled  there.  The  bird  was  under  great 
agitation,  uttered  the  most  doleful  cries,  hopped  from 
spray  to  spray,  and  at  length  flew  directly  down  to 
the  snake,  which  opened  its  mouth  and  swallowed  it. 

[64] 


The  Northern   Neck 

From  hence  we  ascended  up  the  river,  about 
fifteen  miles,  to  Spotswood's  iron-mines;  and  in  our 
way  had  a  fine  view  of  the  Appalachian  mountains,  or 
Blue  Ridge,  at  the  distance  of  seventy  miles.  At 
this  place  I  was  much  affected  by  the  following  in- 
cident. A  gentleman  in  our  company,  which  was 
now  increased,  had  a  small  negro  boy  with  him, 
about  fourteen  years  of  age,  that  had  lived  with  him 
in  a  remote  part  of  the  country  some  time  as  a  ser- 
vant; an  old  woman  who  was  working  in  the  mines, 
and  who  proved  to  be  the  boy's  grandmother,  acci- 
dentally cast  her  eyes  on  him;  she  viewed  him  with 
great  attention  for  some  time;  then  screamed  out, 
saying  that  it  was  her  child,  and  flung  herself  down 
upon  the  ground.  She  lay  there  some  seconds;  rose 
up,  looked  on  him  again  in  an  ecstasy  of  joy,  and  fell 
upon  his  neck  and  kissed  him.  After  this,  she  re- 
tired a  few  paces,  examined  him  afresh  with  fixed 
attention,  and  immediately  seemed  to  lose  herself 
in  thoughtful  and  profound  melancholy.  The  boy 
all  this  while  stood  silent  and  motionless,  reclining 
his  head  on  one  side,  pale  and  affected  beyond  de- 
scription. It  would  not  have  been  in  the  power  of 
painting  to  exhibit  a  finer  picture  of  distress. 

We  returned  from  this  place  the  next  day  to 
Fredericksburg;  and  ferrying  over  the  Rappahannock 
into  the  Northern  Neck,  travelled  about  seventeen 
miles  to  a  gentleman's  house  in  Stafford  county:  in 
the  morning  we  proceeded  through  Dumfries,  and 

[65] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

over  Occoquan  river  to  Colchester,   about  twenty- 
one  miles. 

These  are  two  small  towns  lately  built  for  the  sake 
of  the  back  trade;  the  former*  on  the  Quantico,  the 
other  upon  Occoquan  river,  both  of  which  fall  into 
the  Potomac.  About  two  miles  above  Colchester 
there  is  an  iron  furnace,  a  forge,  two  saw-mills,  and 
a  bolting-mill:  at  our  return  we  had  an  opportunity 
of  visiting  them:  they  have  every  convenience  of 
wood  and  water,  that  can  be  wished  for.  The  ore 
wrought  here  is  brought  from  Maryland;  not  that 
there  is  any  doubt  of  there  being  plenty  enough  in 
the  adjacent  hills;  but  the  inhabitants  are  discouraged 
from  trying  for  it  by  the  proprietor's  (viz.  Lord  Fair- 
fax) having  reserved  to  himself  a  third  of  all  ore  that 
may  be  discovered  in  the  Northern  Neck.f 

*  In  the  preceding  editions  of  this  book,  Dumfries  is  mentioned 
as  situated  upon  Acquia  Creek:  but  this  is  certainly  erroneous;  for 
all  the  maps  describe  it  as  situated  upon  the  Quantico.  The  error 
probably  arose  from  the  author's  having  passed  the  Acquia,  the 
Quantico,  and  the  Occoquan  rivers  in  the  same  day;  and  his  want 
of  perfect  and  correct  recollection,  when  he  wrote  his  journal  in 
the  evening. 

f  An  occurrence  happened  to  me  in  the  course  of  this  day's 
travelling,  which,  though  it  made  a  considerable  impression  upon 
me  at  the  time,  I  should  not  have  thought  of  sufficient  moment  to 
be  recorded,  had  not  the  intellectual  powers  of  the  African  negroes 
been  frequently,  of  late,  made  the  subject  of  conversation,  both  by 
the  friends  and  the  opposers  of  the  emancipation  of  that  unhappy 
race.  In  passing  either  Acquia,  Quantico,  or  Occoquan  rivers, 
I  do  not  recollect  which,  I  was  rowed  by  an  old  gray-headed  negro 
who  seemed  quite  exhausted  and  worn  down  by  age  and  infirmity. 
I  inquired  into  his  situation,  and  received  for  answer,  that  he  had 

[66] 


Falls  of  Potomac 

From  Colchester  we  went  about  twelve  miles 
farther  to  Mount  Vernon.  This  place  is  the  prop- 
erty of  Colonel  Washington,  and  truly  deserving  of 
its  owner.*  The  house  is  most  beautifully  situated 
upon  a  high  hill  on  the  banks  of  the  Potomac;  and 
commands  a  noble  prospect  of  water,  of  cliffs,  of 
woods,  and  plantations.  The  river  is  nearly  two 
miles  broad,  though  two  hundred  from  the  mouth; 

been  a  slave  from  his  youth,  and  had  continued  to  work  for  his 
master  till  age  had  rendered  him  unfit  for  service;  that  his  master 
had  then  kindly  given  him  a  small  piece  of  ground,  and  the  profits 
of  the  ferry,  which  were  indeed  very  inconsiderable,  for  his  main- 
tenance; and  that  with  these  means  of  subsistence  he  awaited  the 
hour  when  it  might  please  God  to  call  him  to  another  life.  I  ob- 
served that  he  must  naturally  wish  for  that  hour,  as  it  would  re- 
lease him  from  his  present  sufferings.  His  answer  was,  no;  for 
he  was  afraid  to  die.  On  my  questioning  him,  why  he  was  afraid 
to  die:  whether  he  had  any  thing  upon  his  conscience  that  gave 
him  uneasiness;  or  whether  he  had  not  been  honest  and  faithful  to 
his  master?  He  answered,  yes;  I  have  always  done  my  duty  to 
the  best  of  my  power:  but  yet  I  am  afraid  to  die:  and  was  not  our 
Saviour  himself  afraid  to  die  ?  The  answer  was  so  unexpected, 
and  so  far  beyond  what  I  supposed  to  be  the  intellectual  capacity 
of  the  poor  negro,  that  it  sunk  deep  into  my  mind,  and  I  was 
lost  for  a  moment  in  silence. 

*  I  cannot  omit  this  opportunity  of  bearing  testimony  to  the 
gallant  and  public  spirit  of  this  gentleman.  Nov.  I,  1753,  Lieut. 
Gov.  Dinwiddie  having  informed  the  assembly  of  Virginia,  that 
the  French  had  erected  a  fort  upon  the  Ohio,  it  was  resolved  to 
send  somebody  to  M.  St.  Pierre,  the  commander,  to  claim  that 
country  as  belonging  to  his  Britannic  Majesty,  and  to  order  him 
to  withdraw.  Mr.  Washington,  a  young  gentlemen  of  fortune 
just  arrived  at  age,  offered  his  service  on  this  important  occasion. 
The  distance  was  more  than  400  miles;  200  of  which  lay  through 
a  trackless  desert,  inhabited  by  cruel  and  merciless  savages;  and 
the  season  was  uncommonly  severe.  Notwithstanding  these  dis- 


Travels    Through   North   America 

and  divides  the  dominions  of  Virginia  from  Mary- 
land.* We  rested  here  one  day,  and  proceeded  up 
the  river  about  twenty-six  miles,  to  take  a  view  of  the 
Great  Falls.  These  are  formed  in  some  respect  like 
those  of  the  Rappahannock;  but  are  infinitely  more 
noble.  The  channel  of  the  river  is  contracted  by 
hills;  and  is  as  narrow,  I  was  told,  as  at  Fort  Cum- 
berland, which  is  an  hundred  and  fifty  miles  higher 
up.  It  is  clogged  moreover  with  innumerable  rocks; 
so  that  the  water  for  a  mile  or  two  flows  with  ac- 
celerated velocity.  At  length  coming  to  a  ledge  of 
rocks,  which  runs  diametrically  across  the  river,  it 
divides  into  two  spouts,  each  about  eight  yards  wide, 

couraging  circumstances,  Mr.  Washington,  attended  by  one  com- 
panion only,  set  out  upon  this  dangerous  enterprise:  travelled 
from  Winchester  on  foot,  carrying  his  provisions  on  his  back,  exe- 
cuted his  commission;  and  after  incredible  hardships,  and  many 
providential  escapes,  returned  safe  to  Williamsburg,  and  gave  an 
account  of  his  negotiation  to  the  assembly,  the  I4th  day  of  Feb- 
ruary following. 

*  A  very  curious  sight  is  frequently  exhibited  upon  this  and  the 
other  great  rivers  in  Virginia,  which  for  its  novelty  is  exceedingly 
diverting  to  strangers.  During  the  spring  and  summer  months 
the  fishing-hawk  is  often  seen  hovering  over  the  rivers,  or  resting 
on  the  wing  without  the  least  visible  change  of  place  for  some 
minutes,  then  suddenly  darting  down  and  plunging  into  the  water, 
from  whence  it  seldom  rises  again  without  a  rock  fish,  or  some 
other  considerable  fish,  in  its  talons.  It  immediately  shakes  off  the 
water  like  a  mist,  and  makes  the  best  of  its  way  towards  the  woods. 
The  bald  eagle,  which  is  generally  upon  the  watch,  instantly  pur- 
sues, and  if  it  can  overtake,  endeavours  to  soar  above  it.  The 
hawk  growing  solicitous  for  its  own  safety  drops  the  fish,  and  the 
bald  eagle  immediately  stoops,  and  seldom  fails  to  catch  it  in  its 
pounces  before  it  reaches  the  water. 

[68] 


Falls  of  Potomac 

and  rushes  down  a  precipice  with  incredible  rapidity. 
The  spout  on  the  Virginian  side  makes  three  falls, 
one  above  another;  the  first  about  ten  feet,  the  next 
fifteen,  and  the  last  twenty-four  or  twenty-five  feet 
perpendicular:  the  water  is  of  a  vast  bulk,  and  almost 
entire.  The  spout  on  the  Maryland  side  is  nearly 
equal  in  height  and  quantity,  but  a  great  deal  more 
broken.  These  two  spouts,  after  running  in  sepa- 
rate channels  for  a  short  space,  at  length  unite  in 
one  about  thirty  yards  wide;  and  as  we  judged  from 
the  smoothness  of  the  surface  and  our  unsuccessful 
endeavours  to  fathom  it,  of  prodigious  depth.  The 
rocks  on  each  side  are  at  least  ninety  or  a  hundred 
feet  high;  and  yet,  in  great  freshes,  the  water  over- 
flows the  tops  of  them,  as  appeared  by  several  large 
and  entire  trees,  which  had  lodged  there. 

In  the  evening  we  returned  down  the  river  about 
sixteen  miles  to  Alexandria,  or  Belhaven,  a  small 
trading  place  in  one  of  the  finest  situations  imagin- 
able. The  Potomac  above  and  below  the  town,  is 
not  more  than  a  mile  broad,  but  it  here  opens  into  a 
large  circular  bay,  of  at  least  twice  that  diameter. 

The  town  is  built  upon  an  arc  of  this  bay;  at  one 
extremity  of  which  is  a  wharf;  at  the  other  a  dock  for 
building  ships;  with  water  sufficiently  deep  to  launch 
a  vessel  of  any  rate  or  magnitude. 

The  next  day  we  returned  to  Colonel  Washington's, 
and  in  a  few  days  afterward  to  Williamsburg. 

The  time  of  my  residence  in  this  colony  was  ten 

[69] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

months,  and  I  received  so  many  instances  of  friend- 
ship and  good-nature,  that  not  to  acknowledge  them 
would  be  an  act  of  ingratitude.  It  would  not  be 
easy  to  mention  particular  instances,  without  being 
guilty  of  injustice  by  omitting  others:  but,  in  general, 
I  can  truly  affirm,  that  I  took  leave  of  this  hospitable 
people  with  regret,  and  shall  ever  remember  them 
with  gratitude  and  affection. 

May  26,  1760.  Having  procured  three  horses, 
for  myself,  servant,  and  baggage,  I  departed  from 
Williamsburg,  and  travelled  that  night  to  Eltham;* 
twenty-five  miles. 

May  27.  I  ferried  over  Pamunky  river  at  Dan- 
sies,  and  went  to  Todd's  ordinary  upon  Mattopony, 
or  the  northern  branch  of  York  river;  thirty-two 
miles. 

May  28.  I  went  to  a  plantation  in  Caroline 
county ;f  twenty-seven  miles. 

May  29.     To  Fredericksburg;  twenty-five  miles. 

As  I  was  travelling  this  day,  I  observed  a  large 
black-snake,  about  six  feet  long,  lying  cross  the  stump 
of  a  tree  by  the  road  side.  I  touched  it  with  my 
switch  several  times  before  it  stirred;  at  last  it  darted 
with  incredible  swiftness  into  the  woods.  On  look- 
ing into  the  hole,  where  it  had  fixed  its  head,  I 
observed  a  small  bead-snake  about  two  feet  long;  beau- 
tifully variegated  with  red,  black,  and  orange  colour, 

*  The  plantation  of  Col.  Bassett. 

f  Belonging  to  Col.  Bailor,  mentioned  above. 


Virginia 

which  the  black-snake  was  watching  to  prey  upon. 
I  took  and  laid  it,  half  stupefied,  in  the  sun  to  revive. 
After  I  proceeded  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  it  oc- 
curred to  me  that  it  would  be  a  great  curiosity  if  I 
could  carry  it  to  England;  I  therefore  sent  my  ser- 
vant back  with  orders  to  fetch  it:  but,  at  his  return, 
he  acquainted  me  that  it  was  not  to  be  found,  and 
that  the  black-snake  was  in  the  same  position  where- 
in I  had  first  discovered  it.  I  mention  this  as  an 
instance  of  the  intrepid  nature  of  the  black-snake, 
which,  though  not  venomous,  will  attack  and  devour 
the  rattlesnake;  and,  in  some  cases,  it  is  asserted, 
even  dare  to  assault  a  man. 

May  30.  I  left  Fredericksburg,  and  having  ferried 
over  the  Rappahannock  at  the  falls,  travelled  that 
night  to  Neville's  ordinary,  about  thirty-four  miles. 

May  31.  I  passed  over  the  Pignut  and  Blue 
Ridges;  and,  crossing  the  Shenandoah,  arrived,  after 
a  long  day's  journey  of  above  fifty  miles,  at 
Winchester.* 

The  Pignut  ridge  is  a  continuation  of  the  south- 
west mountains.  It  is  no  where  very  high;  and  at 
the  gap  where  I  passed,  the  ascent  is  so  extremely 
easy,  owing  to  the  winding  of  the  road  between  the 
mountains,  that  I  was  scarcely  sensible  of  it. 

*  Greenway  Court,  the  seat  of  the  venerable  Lord  Fairfax,  is 
situated  a  few  miles  on  the  left  of  the  road,  about  halfway  between 
the  Appalachian  mountains  and  Winchester.  His  Lordship  being 
absent,  I  was  prevented  from  paying  my  respects  to  him. — See 
Appendix,  No.  4. 

[71] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

The  tract  of  country  lying  between  this  ridge  and 
the  coast,  is  supposed,  and  with  some  appearance  of 
probability,  to  have  been  gained  from  the  ocean. 
The  situation  is  extremely  low,  and  the  ground  every 
where  broken  into  small  hills,  nearly  of  the  same 
elevation,  with  deep  intermediate  gullies,  as  if  it 
were  the  effect  of  some  sudden  retiring  of  the  waters. 
The  soil  is  principally  of  sand;  and  there  are  few,  if 
any  pebbles,  within  a  hundred  miles  of  the  shore; 
for  which  reason  the  Virginians  in  these  parts  never 
shoe  their  horses.  Incredible  quantities  of  what 
are  called  scallop-shells  are  found  also  near  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground;  and  many  of  the  hills  are  entirely 
formed  of  them.  These  phenomena,  with  others 
less  obvious  to  common  observation,  seem  to  in- 
dicate that  the  Atlantic,  either  gradually,  or  by 
some  sudden  revolution  in  nature,  has  retired,  and 
lost  a  considerable  part  of  that  dominion  which 
formerly  belonged  to  it. 

The  Blue  Ridge  is  much  higher  than  the  Pignut: 
though  even  these  mountains  are  not  to  be  compared 
with  the  Alleghany.  To  the  southward,  I  was  told, 
they  are  more  lofty;  and  but  little,  if  at  all,  inferior 
to  them.  The  pass,  at  Ashby's  Gap,  from  the  foot 
of  the  mountain  on  the  eastern  side  to  the  Shenandoah, 
which  runs  at  the  foot  on  the  western,  is  about  four 
miles.  The  ascent  is  no  where  very  steep;  though 
the  mountains  are,  upon  the  whole,  I  think,  higher 
than  any  I  have  ever  seen  in  England.  When  I  got 

[72] 


North   Ridge 

to  the  top,  I  was  inexpressibly  delighted  with  the 
scene  which  opened  before  me.  Immediately  under 
the  mountain,  which  was  covered  with  chamce- 
daphnes  in  full  bloom,  was  a  most  beautiful  river: 
beyond  this  an  extensive  plain,  diversified  with  every 
pleasing  object  that  nature  can  exhibit;  and,  at  the 
distance  of  fifty  miles,  another  ridge  of  still  more 
lofty  mountains,  called  the  Great,  or  North  Ridge,* 
which  inclosed  and  terminated  the  whole. 

The  river  Shenandoah  rises  a  great  way  to  the  south- 
ward from  under  this  Great  North  Ridge.  It  runs 
through  Augusta  county,  and  falls  into  the  Poto- 
mac somewhere  in  Frederick.  At  the  place  where  I 
ferried  over,  it  is  only  about  a  hundred  yards  wide; 
and  indeed  it  is  no  where,  I  believe,  very  broad.  It 
is  exceedingly  romantic  and  beautiful,  forming  great 
variety  of  falls,  and  is  so  transparent,  that  you  may 
see  the  smallest  pebble  at  the  depth  of  eight  or  ten 
feet.  There  is  plenty  of  trout  and  other  fish  in  it; 
but  it  is  not  navigable,  except  for  rafts.  In  sudden 
freshes  it  rises  above  forty  or  fifty  feet.  The  low 
grounds  upon  the  banks  of  this  river  are  very  rich 
and  fertile;  they  are  chiefly  settled  by  Germans,  who 
gain  a  comfortable  livelihood  by  raising  stock  for 
the  troops,  and  sending  butter  down  into  the  lower 
parts  of  the  country.  I  could  not  but  reflect  with 
pleasure  on  the  situation  of  these  people;  and  think 

*  All  these  ridges  consist  of  single  mountains  joined  together, 
and  run  parallel  to  each  other. 

[73] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

if  there  is  such  a  thing  as  happiness  in  this  life,  that 
they  enjoy  it.  Far  from  the  bustle  of  the  world, 
they  live  in  the  most  delightful  climate,  and  richest 
soil  imaginable;  they  are  everywhere  surrounded 
with  beautiful  prospects  and  sylvan  scenes;  lofty 
mountains,  transparent  streams,  falls  of  water,  rich 
valleys,  and  majestic  woods;  the  whole  interspersed 
with  an  infinite  variety  of  flowering  shrubs,  con- 
stitute the  landscape  surrounding  them:  they  are 
subject  to  few  diseases;  are  generally  robust;  and 
live  in  perfect  liberty:  they  are  ignorant  of  want, 
and  acquainted  with  but  few  vices.  Their  inex- 
perience of  the  elegancies  of  life  precludes  any  regret 
that  they  possess  not  the  means  of  enjoying  them: 
but  they  possess  what  many  princes  would  give  half 
their  dominions  for,  health,  content,  and  tranquillity 
of  mind. 

Winchester  is  a  small  town  of  about  two  hundred 
houses.  It  is  the  place  of  general  rendezvous  of  the 
Virginian  troops,  which  is  the  reason  of  its  late  rapid 
increase,  and  present  flourishing  condition.  The 
country  about  it,  before  the  reduction  of  Fort  du 
Quesne,  was  greatly  exposed  to  the  ravages  of  the 
Indians,  who  daily  committed  most  horrid  cruelties: 
even  the  town  would  have  been  in  danger,  had  not 
Colonel  Washington,  in  order  to  cover  and  protect 
it,  erected  a  fort  upon  an  eminence  at  one  end  of  it, 
which  proved  of  the  utmost  utility;  for  although  the 
Indians  were  frequently  in  sight  of  the  town,  they 

[74] 


Winchester 

i 

never  dared  to  approach  within  reach  of  the  fort. 
It  is  a  regular  square  fortification,  with  four  bastions, 
mounting  twenty-four  cannon;  the  length  of  each 
curtain,  if  I  am  not  mistaken,  is  about  eighty  yards. 
Within,  there  are  barracks  for  450  men.  The 
materials  of  which  it  is  constructed  are  logs  filled 
up  with  earth:  the  soldiers  attempted  to  surround 
it  with  a  dry  ditch;  but  the  rock  was  so  extremely 
hard  and  impenetrable  that  they  were  obliged  to 
desist.  It  is  still  unfinished;  and,  I  fear,  going  to 
ruin;  for  the  assembly,  who  seldom  look  a  great  way 
before  them,  after  having  spent  about  9,000  1.  cur- 
rency upon  it,  cannot  be  prevailed  upon  to  give 
another  thousand  towards  finishing  it,  because  we 
are  in  possession  of  Pittsburg;  and,  as  they  suppose, 
quite  secure  on  this  account;  yet  it  is  certain,  that, 
in  case  of  another  Indian  war  on  this  side,  which  is 
by  no  means  improbable,  considering  our  general 
treatment  of  that  people,  it  would  be  of  the  utmost 
advantage  and  security. 

There  is  a  peculiarity  in  the  water  at  Winchester, 
owing,  I  was  told,  to  the  soil's  being  of  a  limy  quality, 
which  is  frequently  productive  of  severe  gripings, 
especially  in  strangers;  but  it  is  generally  supposed, 
on  the  other  hand,  to  be  specific  against  some  other 
diseases.* 

*  Professor  Haller,  in  his  notes  to  the  German  translation  of 
this  book,  supposes  that  the  water  at  Winchester  may  be  impreg- 
nated with  Vitriolic  Magnesia,  Sal  Amarum. 

[75] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

During  my  stay  at  this  place,  I  was  almost  in- 
duced to  make  a  tour  for  a  fortnight  to  the  south- 
ward, in  Augusta  county,  for  the  sake  of  seeing  some 
natural  curiosities,  which,  the  officers  assured  me, 
were  extremely  well  worth  visiting:  but  as  the  Chero- 
kees  had  been  scalping  in  those  parts  only  a  few 
days  before;  and  as  I  feared,  at  the  same  time,  that 
it  would  detain  me  too  long,  and  that  I  should  lose 
my  passage  to  England,  I  judged  it  prudent  to 
decline  it. 

The  curiosities  they  mentioned  to  me,  were  chiefly 
these: 

1.  About  forty  miles  westward  of  Augusta  court- 
house, a  beautiful  cascade,  bursting  out  of  the  side 
of  a  rock;  and,  after  running  some  distance  through 
a    meadow,     rushing    down    a    precipice     150    feet 
perpendicular. 

2.  To  the  southward  of  this  about  twenty  miles, 
two  curious  hot  springs,  one  tasting  like  alum,  the 
other  like  the  washings  of  a  gun. 

3.  A  most  extraordinary  cave. 

4.  A  medicinal  spring,  specific  in  venereal  cases. 
A  soldier  in  the  Virginian  regiment,  whose  case  was 
thought  desperate,  by  drinking  and  bathing  in  these 
waters,  was,  after  a  few  days,  entirely  cured.     This 
fact  was  asserted  very  strongly  by  some  officers,  who 
had  been  posted  there:  but  Colonel  Washington,  of 
whom   I   inquired   more  particularly  concerning  it, 
informed  me  that  he  had  never  heard  of  it;  that  he 

[76] 


Winchester 

was  not  indeed  at  the  place  where  it  is  said  to  have 
happened,  but  that  having  had  the  command  of  the 
regiment  at  that  time,  he  should  probably  have  been 
informed  of  it.  What  credit  therefore  is  to  be  given 
to  it,  the  reader  must  judge  for  himself. 

5.  Sixty  miles  southward  of  Augusta  court-house, 
a  natural  arch,  or  bridge,  joining  two  high  moun- 
tains, with  a  considerable  river  running  underneath. 

6.  A  river  called  Lost  river,  from  its  sinking  under 
a  mountain,  and  never  appearing  again. 

7.  A  spring  of  a  sulphurous  nature,  an  infallible 
cure  for  particular  cutaneous  disorders. 

8.  Sixteen  miles  north-east  of  Winchester,  a  nat- 
ural  cave  or  well,   into   which,   at  times,  a  person 
may  go  down  to  the  depth  of  100  or  150  yards; 
and  at  other  times  the  water  rises  up  to  the  top,  and 
overflows  plentifully.     This  is  called  the  ebbing  and 
flowing  well,  and  is  situated  in  a  plain,  flat  country, 
not  contiguous  to  any  mountain  or  running  water. 

9.  A  few  miles  from  hence,  six  or  seven  curious 
caves  communicating  with  each  other. 

A  day  or  two  before  I  left  Winchester,  I  discovered 
that  I  had  been  robbed  by  my  servant:  he  confessed 
the  fact,  and  pleaded  so  little  in  justification  of  him- 
self, that  I  was  obliged  to  dismiss  him.  This  dis- 
tressed me  very  much,  for  it  was  impossible  to  hire 
a  servant  in  these  parts,  or  even  any  one  to  go  over 
the  mountains  with  me  into  the  lower  settlements. 
However,  by  the  politeness  of  the  commander  of  the 

[77] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

place,  the  Honourable  Colonel  Byrd,  and  of  another 
gentleman*  of  my  acquaintance,  I  got  over  these 
difficulties;  for  the  former,  while  I  continued  at 
Winchester,  accommodated  me  with  his  own  apart- 
ments in  the  fort,  ordering  his  servants  to  attend  and 
wait  upon  me;  and  the  latter  sent  a  negro  boy  with 
me  as  far  as  Colonel  Washington's,  eighty  miles  dis- 
tant from  this  place.  On  the  4th  of  June,  therefore, 
I  was  enabled  to  leave  Winchester,  and  I  travelled 
that  night  about  eighteen  miles,  to  Sniker'sf  ferry 
upon  the  Shenandoah. 

The  next  morning  I  repassed  the  Blue  Ridge  at 
William's  Gap,  and  proceeded  on  my  journey  about 
forty  miles.  I  this  day  fell  into  conversation  with 
a  planter,  who  overtook  me  on  the  road,  concerning 
the  rattle-snake,  of  which  there  are  infinite  numbers 
in  these  parts;  and  he  told  me,  that  one  day  going 
to  a  mill  at  some  distance,  he  provoked  one  to  such 
a  degree,  as  to  make  it  strike  a  small  vine  which 
grew  close  by,  and  that  the  vine  presently  drooped 
and  died.:j: 

My  accommodations  this  evening  were  extremely 

*  Colonel  Churchill. 

f  Called  in  Fry  and  Jefferson's  map,  Williams's  Ferry. 

|  Several  persons  to  whom  I  have  mentioned  this  fact,  have 
seemed  to  doubt  of  the  probability  of  it.  But  were  it  not  true,  a 
question  will  naturally  arise,  how  an  idea  of  that  nature  should 
occur  to  an  ignorant  planter,  living  remote  from  all  cultivated 
society;  and,  more  particularly,  how  he  should  happen  to  fix  upon 
that  tree;  which,  supposing  the  thing  possible,  is  the  most  likely 
to  have  been  affected  in  the  manner  described. 

[78] 


Virginia 

bad;  I  had  been  wet  to  the  skin  in  the  afternoon;  and 
at  the  miserable  plantation  in  which  I  had  taken 
shelter,  I  could  get  no  fire;  nothing  to  eat  or  drink 
but  pure  water;  and  not  even  a  blanket  to  cover  me. 
I  threw  myself  down  upon  my  mattrass,  but  suffered 
so  much  from  cold,  and  was  so  infested  with  insects 
and  vermin,  that  I  could  not  close  my  eyes.  I  rose 
early  in  the  morning,  therefore,  and  proceeded  upon 
my  journey,  being  distant  from  Colonel  Washing- 
ton's not  more  than  thirty  miles.  It  was  late,  how- 
ever, before  I  arrived  there,  for  it  rained  extremely 
hard,  and  a  man  who  undertook  to  shew  me  the 
nearest  way,  led  me  among  precipices  and  rocks, 
and  we  were  lost  for  above  two  hours.  It  was  not, 
indeed,  without  some  compensation;  for  he  brought 
me  through  as  beautiful  and  picturesque  a  scene, 
as  eye  ever  beheld.  It  was  a  delightful  valley,  about 
two  miles  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of  one  in  breadth, 
between  high  and  craggy  mountains,  covered  with 
chamcedaphnes*  or  wild  ivy,  in  full  flower.  Through 
the  middle  of  the  valley  glided  a  rivulet  about  eight 
yards  wide,  extremely  lucid,  and  breaking  into  in- 
numerable cascades;  and  in  different  parts  of  it  stood 

*  The  chamoedaphne  is  the  most  beautiful  of  all  flowering 
shrubs:  Catesby  in  his  Natural  History  of  Carolina  speaks  of  it 
in  the  following  manner:  "The  flowers  grow  in  bunches  on  the 
'tops  of  the  branches,  to  footstalks  of  three  inches  long;  they  are 
'white,  stained  with  purplish  red;  consisting  of  one  leaf  in  form 
'of  a  cup,  divided  at  the  verge  into  five  sections.  In  the  middle 
'is  a  stilus,  and  ten  stamina,  which,  when  the  flower  first  opens, 
'  appear  lying  close  to  the  sides  of  the  cup,  at  equal  distances;  their 

[79] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

small  clumps  of  evergreens,  such  as  myrtles,  cedars, 
pines,  and  various  other  sorts.  Upon  the  whole,  not 
Tempe  itself  could  have  displayed  greater  beauty  or 
a  more  delightful  scene. 

At  Colonel  Washington's  I  disposed  of  my  horses, 
and,  having  borrowed  his  curricle  and  servant,  I  took 
leave  of  Mount  Vernon  the  i  ith  of  June. 

I  crossed  over  the  Potomac  into  Maryland  at 
Clifton's  ferry,  where  the  river  is  something  more  than 
a  mile  broad;  and  proceeded  on  my  journey  to  Marl- 
borough,  eighteen  miles.  I  here  met  with  a  strolling 
company  of  players,  under  the  direction  of  one 
Douglas.  I  went  to  see  their  theatre,  which  was  a 
neat,  convenient  tobacco-house,  well  fitted  up  for 
the  purpose.*  From  hence  in  the  afternoon  I  pro- 
ceeded to  Queen  Anne,  nine  miles;  and  in  the  evening 
nine  miles  farther,  over  the  Patuxent  to  London- 
town  ferry;  I  staid  here  all  night,  and  early  in  the 
morning  ferrying  over  South  river,  three  quarters  of 
a  mile  in  breadth,  I  arrived  at  Annapolis,  four 
miles  distant,  about  nine  in  the  morning. 

Annapolis  is  the  capital  of  Maryland;  it  is  a  small, 
neat  town,  consisting  of  about  a  hundred  and  fifty 

'  apices  being  lodged  in  ten  little  hollow  cells,  which  being  promi- 
'nent  on  the  outside,  appear  as  so  many  little  tubercles. — As  all 
'plants  have  their  peculiar  beauties,  it  is  difficult  to  assign  to  any 
'one  an  elegance  excelling  all  others;  yet  considering  the  curious 
'structure  of  the  flower,  and  beautiful  appearance  of  this  whole 
'  plant,  I  know  of  no  shrub  that  has  a  better  claim  to  it."  Catesby, 
Vol.  II.  p.  98.  See  Appendix,  No.  I. 
*  See  Note  VIII. 

[So] 


Annapolis 

houses,  situated  on  a  peninsula  upon  Severn  river. 
The  peninsula  is  formed  by  the  river,  and  two  small 
creeks;  and  although  the  river  is  not  above  a  mile 
broad;  yet  as  it  falls  into  Chesapeake  bay  a  little  be- 
low, there  is  from  this  town  the  finest  water-prospect 
imaginable.  The  bay  is  twelve  miles  over,  and  be- 
yond it  you  may  discern  the  eastern  shore;  so  that 
the  scene  is  diversified  with  fields,  woods,  and  water. 
The  tide  rises  here  about  two  feet,  and  the  water  is 
salt,  though  the  distance  of  the  Capes  is  more  than 
200  miles.  The  town  is  not  laid  out  regularly,  but 
is  tolerably  well  built,  and  has  several  good  brick 
houses.  None  of  the  streets  are  paved,  and  the  few 
public  buildings  here  are  not  worth  mentioning. 
The  church  is  a  very  poor  one,  the  stadt-house  but 
indifferent,  and  the  governor's  palace  is  not  finished. 
This  last  mentioned  building  was  begun  a  few  years 
ago;  it  is  situated  very  finely  upon  an  eminence,  and 
commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  town  and  environs. 
It  has  four  large  rooms  on  the  lower  floor,  besides 
a  magnificent  saloon,  a  stair-case,  and  a  vestibule. 
On  each  side  of  the  entrance  are  four  windows,  and 
nine  upon  the  first  story;  the  offices  are  under  ground. 
It  was  to  have  had  a  fine  portico  the  whole  range  of 
the  building;  but  unluckily  the  governor  and  as- 
sembly disagreeing  about  ways  and  means,  the  exe- 
cution of  the  design  was  suspended;  and  only  the 
shell  of  the  house  has  been  finished,  which  is  now 
going  to  ruin.  The  house  which  the  present  gov- 

[81] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

ernor  inhabits,  is  hired  by  the  province  at  80  1.  cur- 
rency per  annum. 

There  is  very  little  trade  carried  on  from  this 
place,  and  the  chief  of  the  inhabitants  are  store- 
keepers or  public  officers.  They  build  two  or  three 
ships  annually,  but  seldom  more.  There  are  no 
fortifications,  except  a  miserable  battery  of  fifteen 
six-pounders. 

Maryland  is  situated  between  the  38th  and  4<Dth 
degree  of  north  latitude,  and  the  75th  and  8oth  of 
west  longitude  from  London.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
east  by  the  Atlantic  ocean,  and  the  three  lower 
counties  of  Delaware;  on  the  south  and  west  by 
Virginia;  and  by  Pennsylvania  on  the  north.  The 
climate,  soil,  and  natural  productions  of  it  are  nearly 
the  same  as  those  of  Virginia.  It  is  watered  by 
many  fine  rivers,  and  almost  innumerable  creeks; 
but  it  is  far  from  being  well  cultivated,  and  is  ca- 
pable of  much  improvement.  It  is  divided  into 
fourteen  counties,  and  between  forty  and  fifty 
parishes;  and  there  are  several  little  towns  in  it 
which  are  neatly  built.  The  inhabitants,  exclusive 
of  slaves,  are  supposed  to  be  about  ninety  thousand: 
of  which  the  militia,  including  all  white  males  be- 
tween sixteen  and  fifty,  amounts  to  eighteen.  The 
slaves  are  about  thirty-two  thousand.  The  staple 
of  the  country  is  tobacco;  and,  communibus  annts, 
they  export  near  30,000  hogsheads:  last  year  their 

[82] 


Maryland 

exports  amounted  to  50,000.  Their  manufactures 
are  very  trifling.  The  government  is  a  proprietary 
one;  and  consists  of  the  proprietor  (viz.  Lord  Balti- 
more); his  governor,  the  council,  composed  of 
twelve  persons  nominated  by  himself;  and  a  house 
of  representatives,  elected  by  the  people;  four  for 
each  county,  and  two  for  Annapolis.  The  power 
of  the  proprietor  is  next  to  regal;  of  the  other  parts 
of  the  legislature,  much  the  same  as  in  Virginia. 
The  lower  house  has  been  at  variance  some  years 
with  the  council  and  governor,  concerning  ways  and 
means;  chiefly  in  regard  to  taxing  the  merchants' 
book-debts:  which  has  been  the  reason  of  their  hav- 
ing done  nothing  for  the  defence  of  the  colonies 
during  the  war.  The  house  has  constantly  voted 
troops,  but  as  constantly  laid  the  same  tax  for  the 
maintenance  of  them:  the  council  therefore  has 
always  rejected  the  bill;  alleging  the  inconvenience 
of  such  a  tax,  as  it  would  necessarily  be  a  restraint 
upon  trade;  and  ruin  many  of  the  merchants'  credit. 
—The  proprietor  has  a  negative*  upon  every  bill, 
exclusive  of  his  governor. 

There  are  several  courts  of  judicature  in  this 
province;  but  the  principal  are  either  those  which 
are  held  quarterly  in  each  county  by  the  justices 
thereof,  like  those  in  Virginia;  or  the  provincial 
ones,  which  are  held  twice  annually  at  Annapolis 
*  This  power  is  doubted,  though  it  has  never  yet  been  contested. 


Travels    Through   North   America 

by  judges  appointed  for  that  purpose.*  The  court  of 
chancery  consists  of  the  governor  and  council:  and 
the  dernier  resort  is  to  his  majesty  in  council  at  home. 

The  established  religion  is  that  of  the  Church  of 
England:  but  there  are  as  many  Roman  Catholics 
as  Protestants.  The  clergy  are  liberally  provided 
for;  they  have  not,  as  in  Virginia,  a  fixed  quantity 
of  tobacco;  but  so  much  per  head,  viz.  30  Ib.  weight 
for  every  titheable  in  their  respective  parishes:  and 
some  of  them  make  more  than  300  1.  sterling  per 
annum.  They  are  presented  to  their  livings  by  the 
governor;  and  are  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
bishop  of  London;  but  being  at  a  great  distance 
from  England,  and  having  no  commissary  to  super- 
intend their  affairs,  they  lie  under  many  disadvan- 
tages. Assessments  are  made,  I  was  told,  by  the 
county  courts;  the  vestry,  which  consists  of  twelve 
members  distinct  from  the  church  wardens,  have 
little  or  no  authority. f 

In  each  county  throughout  this  province,  there 
is  a  public  free  school,  for  reading,  writing,  and 
accounts;  but  no  college  or  academy;  and  the  edu- 
cation of  youth  is  but  little  attended  to. 

*  Besides  these  courts,  there  was  formerly  a  general  court  of 
assize  held  throughout  the  province  either  once  or  twice  a  year, 
but  this  has  been  laid  aside. 

fThe  whole  vestry,  as  in  Virginia,  consists  of  twelve  members; 
but  they  go  off  by  rotation  two  every  year;  and  there  is  annually  a 
fresh  election.  They  have  the  power  of  appointing  inspectors, 
etc. 

[84] 


Chesapeake-Bay 

The  character  of  the  inhabitants  is  much  the  same 
as  that  of  the  Virginians;  and  the  state  of  the  two 
colonies  nearly  alike.  Tobacco,  to  speak  in  general, 
is  the  chief  thing  attended  to  in  both.  There  have 
been  some  attempts  to  make  wine;  and  it  is  certain, 
that  the  country  is  capable  of  producing  almost  any 
sort  of  grapes.  Col.  Tasco,  a  gentleman  of  dis- 
tinction in  these  parts,  attempted  to  make  Burgundy, 
and  succeeded  tolerably  well  for  the  first  trial.  I 
drank  some  of  the  wine  at  the  table  of  Mr.  Hamilton, 
the  governor  of  Pennsylvania,  and  thought  it  not 
bad.  But  whether,  as  this  gentleman  is  now  de- 
ceased, any  other  person  will  have  spirit  to  prose- 
cute his  plan,  I  much  doubt.  The  currency  here 
is  paper  money,  and  the  difference  of  exchange 
about  fifty  per  cent.  The  duty  upon  negroes  is 
only  forty  shillings  currency  per  head  at  their  im- 
portation; whereas  in  Virginia  it  is  ten  pounds. 

June  13.  I  hired  a  schooner  of  about  ten  ton, 
and  embarked  for  the  head  of  the  bay,  distant 
twenty-three  leagues;  we  made  sail  with  a  fresh 
breeze,  and  after  a  pleasant  passage  of  sixteen  hours, 
in  one  of  the  most  delightful  days  imaginable,  ar- 
rived at  Fredericktown  upon  Sassafras  river,  about 
twelve  in  the  evening.  I  never  in  my  life  spent  a 
day  more  agreeably,  or  with  higher  entertainment. 
The  shores  on  each  side  of  the  bay,  and  the  many 
little  islands  interspersed  in  it,  afford  very  beautiful 
prospects;  we  were  entertained  at  the  same  time  by 

[85] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

innumerable  porpoises  playing  about  the  bow  of  the 
ship;  and  naturally  fell  into  a  train  of  the  most  pleas- 
ing reflections,  on  observing  the  mouths  of  the  many 
noble  rivers  as  we  passed  along.  On  the  western 
shore,  besides  those  great  rivers  of  Virginia,  which 
I  have  already  described,  there  are  ten  or  eleven 
others,  large  and  capacious,  some  of  them  navigable 
a  considerable  way  up  into  the  country.*  "The 
Patuxent,  which  we  have  left  behind  us,"  said  the 
master  of  the  schooner,  as  we  were  sailing  over  this 
beautiful  bay,  "  is  navigable  near  fifty  miles  for  vessels 
of  three  hundred  ton  burthen.  Yonder,"  he  added, 
"  are  South,  Severn,  and  Magotty  rivers,  navigable 
about  ten  miles.  A  little  farther  is  the  Patapsico, 
a  large  and  noble  river;  where  I  have  gone  up  fifteen 
miles.  Back,  Middle,  Gunpowder,  and  Bush  rivers 
admit  only  sloops  and  schooners,  and  these  only  for 
six  or  seven  miles.  The  Susquehanna,  though  so 
majestic,  and  superior  in  appearance,  has  only  a 
short,  and  that  a  bad  navigation;  but  it  rises  an  im- 
mense way  off  in  unknown  and  inhospitable  regions, 
is  exceedingly  large  and  beautiful,  and  affords  great 
variety  of  fish.  The  next,  or  North  river,  is  navi- 
gable about  ten  miles.  On  the  eastern  shore,"  he 
concluded,  "  are  Elk,  Bahama,  Sassafras,  Chester, 
Wye,  Miles,  Great  Choptank,  Little  Choptank,  Nan- 

*  By  some  error  or  oversight  the  names  of  several  rivers  here 
mentioned,  though  particularly  specified  in  the  original  manu- 
script, were  omitted  in  the  first  and  second  editions  of  this  work. 
They  are  now  inserted,  and  the  account  is  correct. 

[86] 


Newcastle 

ticote,  Manokin,  and  Pocomoke  rivers,  all  of  them 
navigable,  more  or  less,  for  several  miles*."  Such 
was  our  conversation  and  entertainment  during  this 
delightful  voyage. 

Frederictown  is  a  small  village  on  the  western 
side  of  Sassafras  river,  built  for  the  accommodation 
of  strangers  and  travellers;  on  the  eastern  side, 
exactly  opposite  to  it,  is  another  small  village  (George- 
town), erected  for  the  same  purpose.  Having  hired 
an  Italian  chaise,  with  a  servant  and  horse  to  attend 
me  as  far  as  Philadelphia,  I  left  Frederictown  the 
next  day,  and  went  to  Newcastle,  thirty-two  miles. 

Newcastle  is  situated  upon  Delaware  river,  about 
forty  miles  above  the  Bay,  and  a  hundred  from  the 
Capes.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  three  lower  counties, 
but  a  place  of  very  little  consideration;  there  are 
scarcely  more  than  a  hundred  houses  in  it,  and  no 
public  buildings  that  deserve  to  be  taken  notice  of. 
The  church,  Presbyterian  and  Quaker  meeting- 
houses, court-house,  and  market-house,  are  almost 
equally  bad,  and  undeserving  of  attention. 

The  province,  of  which  this  is  the  capital,  and 
which  is  distinguished  by  the  name  of  the  Three 
Lower  Counties  of  Newcastle,  Sussex,  and  Kent, 
belonged  formerly  to  the  Dutch;  but  was  ratified 
to  the  crown  of  England  by  the  treaty  of  Breda;  it 
was  afterwards  sold  by  the  Duke  of  York  to  the 
proprietor  of  Pennsylvania,  and  has  continued  a 

*  He  said  from  eighteen  to  fifty  miles. 

[87] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

separate  government,  though  under  nearly  the  same 
regulations  with  that  province,  ever  since.  The 
same  governor  presides  over  both;  but  the  assembly, 
and  courts  of  judicature  are  different:  different  as  to 
their  constituent  members,  for  in  form  they  are  nearly 
alike.  The  assembly  consists  of  eighteen  persons, 
elected  annually  by  the  people;  six  for  each  county: 
this,  with  the  governor,  forms  the  legislature  of  the 
province.  There  is  a  militia,  in  which  all  persons, 
from  eighteen  to  fifty,  are  obliged  to  be  enrolled;  and 
the  county  of  Newcastle  alone  furnishes  more  than 
seven  hundred. 

The  next  day  I  set  out  for  Philadelphia,  distant 
about  thirty-six  miles,  and  arrived  there  in  the  eve- 
ning. The  country  all  the  way  bore  a  different 
aspect  from  any  thing  I  had  hitherto  seen  in  America. 
It  was  much  better  cultivated,  and  beautifully  laid 
out  into  fields  of  clover,  grain,  and  flax.  I  passed 
by  a  very  pretty  village  called  Wilmington;  and  rode 
through  two  others,  viz.  Chester  and  Derby.  The 
Delaware  river  is  in  sight  great  part  of  the  way,  and 
is  three  miles  broad.  Upon  the  whole  nothing  could 
be  more  pleasing  than  the  ride  which  I  had  this  day. 
I  ferried  over  the  Schuylkill,  about  three  miles  below 
Philadelphia;  from  whence  to  the  city  the  whole 
country  is  covered  with  villas,  gardens,  and  luxuriant 
orchards. 

Philadelphia,  if  we  consider  that  not  eighty  years 
ago  the  place  where  it  now  stands  was  a  wild  and  un- 

[88] 


Philadelphia 

cultivated  desert,  inhabited  by  nothing  but  ravenous 
beasts,  and  a  savage  people,  must  certainly  be  the 
object  of  every  one's  wonder  and  admiration.  It  is 
situated  upon  a  tongue  of  land,  a  few  miles  above 
the  confluence  of  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill;  and 
contains  about  3,000  houses,  and  18  or  20,000  in- 
habitants. It  is  built  north  and  south  upon  the 
banks  of  the  Delaware;  and  is  nearly  two  miles  in 
length,  and  three  quarters  of  one  in  breadth.  The 
streets  are  laid  out  with  great  regularity  in  parallel 
lines,  intersected  by  others  at  right  angles,  and  are 
handsomely  built:  on  each  side  there  is  a  pavement 
of  broad  stones  for  foot  passengers;  and  in  most  of 
them  a  causeway  in  the  middle  for  carriages.  Upon 
dark  nights  it  is  well  lighted,  and  watched  by  a 
patrol:  there  are  many  fair  houses,  and  public 
edifices  in  it.  The  stadt-house  is  a  large,  handsome, 
though  heavy  building;  in  this  are  held  the  councils, 
the  assemblies,  and  supreme  courts;  there  are  apart- 
ments in  it  also  for  the  accommodation  of  Indian 
chiefs  or  sachems;  likewise  two  libraries,  one  be- 
longing to  the  province,  the  other  to  a  society,  which 
was  incorporated  about  ten  years  ago,  and  consists 
of  sixty  members.  Each  member  upon  admission, 
subscribed  forty  shillings;  and  afterward  annually 
ten.  They  can  alienate  their  shares,  by  will  or  deed, 
to  any  person  approved  by  the  society.  They  have 
a  small  collection  of  medals  and  medallions,  and  a 
few  other  curiosities,  such  as  the  skin  of  a  rattle- 


"Travels    Through   North   America 

snake  killed  at  Surinam  twelve  feet  long;  and  several 
Northern  Indian  habits  made  of  furs  and  skins. 
At  a  small  distance  from  the  stadt-house,  there  is 
another  fine  library,  consisting  of  a  very  valuable 
and  chosen  collection  of  books,  left  by  a  Mr.  Logan; 
they  are  chiefly  in  the  learned  languages.*  Near 
this  there  is  also  a  noble  hospital  for  lunatics,  and 
other  sick  persons.  Besides  these  buildings,  there 
are  spacious  barracks  for  17  or  1800  men;  a  good 
assembly-room  belonging  to  the  society  of  Free 
Masons;  and  eight  or  ten  places  of  religious  worship; 
viz.  two  churches,  three  Quaker  meeting-houses, 
two  Presbyterian  ditto,  one  Lutheran  church,  one 
Dutch  Calvinist  ditto,  one  Swedish  ditto,  one  Romish 
chapel,  one  Anabaptist  meeting-house,  one  Mora- 
vian ditto:  there  is  also  an  academy  or  college,  origi- 
nally built  for  a  tabernacle  for  Mr.  Whitefield.  At 
the  south  end  of  the  town,  upon  the  river,  there  is  a 
battery  mounting  thirty  guns,  but  it  is  in  a  state  of 
decay.  It  was  designed  to  be  a  check  upon  pri- 
vateers. These,  with  a  few  alms-houses,  and  a 
school-house  belonging  to  the  Quakers,  are  the  chief 
public  buildings  in  Philadelphia.  The  city  is  in  a 
very  flourishing  state,  and  inhabited  by  merchants, 
artists,  tradesmen,  and  persons  of  all  occupations. 
There  is  a  public  market  held  twice  a  week,  upon 
Wednesday  and  Saturday,  almost  equal  to  that  of 
Leadenhall,  and  a  tolerable  one  every  day  besides. 
*  See  Note  IX. 

[90] 


Philadelphia 

The  streets  are  crowded  with  people,  and  the  river 
with  vessels.  Houses  are  so  dear,  that  they  will  let 
for  100  1.  currency  per  annum;  and  lots,  not  above 
thirty  feet  in  breadth,  and  a  hundred  in  length,  in 
advantageous  situations,  will  sell  for  1,000  1.  sterling. 
There  are  several  docks  upon  the  river,  and  about 
twenty-five  vessels  are  built  there  annually.  I 
counted  upon  the  stocks  at  one  time  no  less  than 
seventeen,  many  of  them  three-masted  vessels.* 

Can  the  mind  have  a  greater  pleasure  than  in 
contemplating  the  rise  and  progress  of  cities  and 
kingdoms  ?  Than  in  perceiving  a  rich  and  opulent 
state  arising  out  of  a  small  settlement  or  colony  ? 
This  pleasure  every  one  must  feel  who  considers 
Pensylvania.  This  wonderful  province  is  situated 
between  the  4Oth  and  43d  degree  of  north  latitude, 
and  about  76  degrees  west  longitude  from  London, 
in  a  healthy  and  delightful  climate,  amidst  all  the 
advantages  that  nature  can  bestow.  The  soil  is 
extremely  strong  and  fertile,  and  produces  spon- 
taneously an  infinite  variety  of  trees,  flowers,  fruits, 
and  plants  of  different  sorts.  The  mountains  are 
enriched  with  ore,  and  the  rivers  with  fish:  some  of 
these  are  so  stately  as  not  to  be  beheld  without  ad- 
miration: the  Delaware  is  navigable  for  large  vessels 
as  far  as  the  falls,  180  miles  distant  from  the  sea,  and 
120  from  the  bay.  At  the  mouth  it  is  more  than 
three  miles  broad,  and  above  one  at  Philadelphia. 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  2. 

[9-1 


Travels    Through   North   America 

The  navigation  is  obstructed  in  the  winter,  for  about 
six  weeks,  by  the  severity  of  the  frost;  but,  at  other 
times,  it  is  bold  and  open.  The  Schuylkill,  though 
not  navigable  for  any  great  space,  is  exceed- 
ingly romantic,  and  affords  the  most  delightful 
retirements. 

Cultivation  (comparatively  speaking)  is  carried 
to  a  high  degree  of  perfection;  and  Pennsylvania 
produces  not  only  great  plenty,  but  also  great  variety 
of  grain;  it  yields  likewise  flax-seed,  hemp,  cattle  of 
different  kinds,  and  various  other  articles.* 

It  is  divided  into  eight  counties,  and  contains 
many  large  and  populous  towns:  Carlisle,  Lancaster, 
and  Germantown,  consist  each  of  near  five  hundred 
houses;  there  are  several  others  which  have  from 
one  or  two  hundred. 

The  number  of  inhabitants  is  supposed  to  be 
between  four  and  five  hundred  thousand, f  a  fifth  of 

*  In  the  southern  colonies  cultivation  is  in  a  very  low  state. 
The  common  process  of  it  is,  first  to  cut  off  the  trees  two  or  three 
feet  above  ground,  in  order  to  let  in  the  sun  and  air,  leaving  the 
stumps  to  decay  and  rot,  which  they  do  in  a  few  years.  After  this 
they  dig  and  plant,  and  continue  to  work  the  same  field,  year  after 
year,  without  ever  manuring  it,  till  it  is  quite  spent.  They  then 
enter  upon  a  fresh  piece  of  ground,  allowing  this  a  respite  of  about 
twenty  years  to  recover  itself;  during  which  time  it  becomes  beauti- 
fully covered  with  Virginian  pines;  the  seeds  of  that  tree,  which 
are  exceedingly  small,  and,  when  the  cones  open,  are  wafted 
through  the  air  in  great  abundance,  sowing  themselves  in  every 
vacant  spot  of  neglected  ground. 

t  Doubts  have  since  arisen,  whether  the  number,  at  the  time 
here  mentioned,  amounted  to  more  than  350,000. — See  Morse's 
American  Geography. 

[92] 


Pennsylvania 

which  are  Quakers;  there  are  very  few  negroes  or 
slaves. 

The  trade  of  Pennsylvania  is  surprisingly  extensive, 
carried  on  to  Great  Britain,  the  West  Indies,  every 
part  of  North  America,  the  Madeiras,  Lisbon,  Cadiz, 
Holland,  Africa,  the  Spanish  Main,  and  several  other 
places;  exclusive  of  what  is  illicitly  carried  on  to 
Cape  Francois,  and  Monte  Christo.  Their  exports 
are  provisions  of  all  kinds,  lumber,  hemp,  flax,  flax- 
seed,  iron,  furs,  and  deer-skins.  Their  imports, 
English  manufactures,  with  the  superfluities  and 
luxuries  of  life.  By  their  flag-of-truce  trade,  they 
also  get  sugar,  which  they  refine  and  send  to  Europe. 

Their  manufactures  are  very  considerable.  The 
Germantown  thread-stockings  are  in  high  estima- 
tion; and  the  year  before  last,  I  have  been  credibly 
informed,  there  were  manufactured  in  that  town 
alone  above  60,000  dozen  pair.  Their  common 
retail  price  is  a  dollar  per  pair. 

The  Irish  settlers  make  very  good  linens:  some 
woolens  have  also  been  fabricated,  but  not,  I  believe, 
to  any  amount.  There  are  several  other  manufac- 
tures, viz.  of  beaver  hats,  which  are  superior  in  good- 
ness to  any  in  Europe,  of  cordage,  linseed-oil,  starch, 
myrtle-wax  and  spermaceti  candles,  soap,  earthen 
ware,  and  other  commodities. 

The  government  of  this  province  is  a  proprietary 
one.  The  legislature  is  lodged  in  the  hands  of  a 
governor,  appointed  (with  the  king's  approbation) 

[93] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

by  the  proprietor;  and  a  house  of  representatives 
elected  by  the  people,  consisting  of  thirty-seven 
members.  These  are  of  various  religious  persua- 
sions; for  by  the  charter  of  privileges  which  Mr. 
Penn  granted  to  the  settlers  in  Pennsylvania,  no  per- 
son who  believed  in  God  could  be  molested  in  his 
calling  or  profession;  and  any  one  who  believed  in 
Jesus  Christ  might  enjoy  the  first  post  under  the 
government.  The  crown  has  reserved  to  itself  a 
power  of  repealing  any  law,  which  may  interfere 
with  the  prerogative,  or  be  contrary  to  the  laws  of 
Great  Britain. 

The  judicature  consists  of  different  courts.  The 
justices  of  the  peace,  who,  together  with  the  other 
judges,  are  of  the  governor's  appointments,  hold 
quarterly  sessions  conformable  to  the  laws  of  Eng- 
land; and,  when  these  are  finished,  continue  to  sit 
in  quality  of  judges  of  common  pleas,  by  a  special 
commission.  The  supreme  court  consists  of  a  chief 
justice,  and  two  assistant  judges;  they  have  the  united 
authority  of  the  King's  Bench,  Common  Pleas,  and 
Court  of  Exchequer.  They  not  only  receive  appeals, 
but  all  causes  once  commenced  in  the  inferior  courts, 
after  the  first  writ,  may  be  moved  thither  by  a  habeas 
corpus,  certiorari,  writ  of  error,  etc.  The  judges  of 
the  supreme  court  have  also  a  standing  and  distinct 
commission,  to  hold,  as  shall  seem  needful,  courts 
of  oyer  and  terminer,  and  general  gaol-deliveries 
throughout  the  province;  but  this  power  they  sel- 

[94] 


Pennsylvania 

dom,  I  believe,  exercise.  The  supreme  courts  are 
held  twice  a  year  at  Philadelphia.  There  is  no 
Court  of  Chancery;  but  the  want  of  it  is  supplied,  in 
some  measure,  by  the  other  courts.  There  is  a  par- 
ticular officer  called  the  register-general,  appointed 
by  the  governor,  whose  authority  extends  over  the 
whole  province,  where  he  has  several  deputies.  He 
grants  letters  of  administration,  and  probates  of  wills. 
In  cases  of  dispute,  or  caveat  entered,  he  may  call  in, 
as  assistants,  two  justices  of  the  peace.  The  gov- 
ernor can  pardon  in  all  cases,  except  of  treason  or 
murder,  and  then  can  reprieve  till  he  knows  the 
king's  pleasure. 

There  is  here,  as  in  most  of  the  other  colonies,  a 
Court  of  Vice-Admiralty,  held  by  commission  from 
the  Admiralty  in  England,  for  the  trial  of  captures, 
and  of  piracies,  and  other  misdemeanors  committed 
upon  the  high  seas;  but  there  lies  an  appeal  from  it, 
I  believe,  to  the  Court  of  Delegates  in  England. 

As  to  religion,  there  is  none  properly  established; 
but  Protestants  of  all  denominations,  Papists,  Jews, 
and  all  other  sects  whatsoever,  are  universally  toler- 
ated. There  are  twelve  clergymen  of  the  Church  of 
England,  who  are  sent  by  the  Society  for  the  Pro- 
pagation of  the  Gospel,  and  are  allowed  annually 
50  1.  each,  besides  what  they  get  from  subscriptions 
and  surplice  fees.  Some  few  of  these  are  itinerant 
missionaries,  and  have  no  fixed  residence,  but  travel 
from  place  to  place,  as  occasion  requires,  upon  the 

[95] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

frontiers.  They  are  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
bishop  of  London. 

Arts  and  sciences  are  yet  in  their  infancy.  There 
are  some  few  persons  who  have  discovered  a  taste 
for  music  and  painting*;  and  philosophy  seems  not 
only  to  have  made  a  considerable  progress  already, 
but  to  be  daily  gaining  ground.  The  library  society 
is  an  excellent  institution  for  propagating  a  taste  for 
literature;  and  the  college  well  calculated  to  form 
and  cultivate  it.  This  last  institution  is  erected 
upon  an  admirable  plan,  and  is  by  far  the  best  school 
for  learning  throughout  America.  It  has  been  chiefly 
raised  by  contributions;  and  its  present  fund  is  about 
10,000  1.  Pennsylvania  money.  An  account  of  it  may 
be  seen  in  Dr.  Smith's  (the  president's)  Discourses. 
The  Quakers  also  have  an  academy  for  instructing 
their  youth  in  classical  learning,  and  practical  mathe- 
matics: there  are  three  teachers,  and  about  seventy 
boys  in  it.  Besides  these,  there  are  several  schools 
in  the  province  for  the  Dutch  and  other  foreign 
children;  and  a  considerable  one  is  going  to  be  erected 
at  Germantown. 

The  Pennsylvanians,  as  to  character,  are  a  frugal 
and  industrious  people:  not  remarkably  courteous 
and  hospitable  to  strangers,  unless  particularly 
recommended  to  them;  but  rather,  like  the  denizens 
of  most  commercial  cities,  the  reverse.  They  are 

*  Mr.  Benjamin  West,  president  of  the  Royal  Academy,  was,  I 
believe,  a  native  of  Pennsylvania,  if  not  of  Philadelphia. 

[96] 


Pennsylvania 

great  republicans,  and  have  fallen  into  the  same 
errors  in  their  ideas  of  independency  as  most  of  the 
other  colonies  have.  They  are  by  far  the  most 
enterprising  people  upon  the  continent.  As  they 
consist  of  several  nations,  and  talk  several  languages, 
they  are  aliens  in  some  respect  to  Great  Britain:  nor 
can  it  be  expected  that  they  should  have  the  same 
filial  attachment  to  her  which  her  own  immediate 
offspring  have.  However,  they  are  quiet,  and  con- 
cern themselves  but  little,  except  about  getting 
money.  The  women  are  exceedingly  handsome  and 
polite;  they  are  naturally  sprightly  and  fond  of 
pleasure;  and,  upon  the  whole,  are  much  more  agree- 
able and  accomplished  than  the  men.  Since  their 
intercourse  with  the  English  officers,  they  are  greatly 
improved;  and,  without  flattery,  many  of  them 
would  not  make  bad  figures  even  in  the  first  assem- 
blies in  Europe.  Their  amusements  are  chiefly, 
dancing  in  the  winter;  and,  in  the  summer,  forming 
parties  of  pleasure  upon  the  Schuylkill,  and  in  the 
country.  There  is  a  society  of  sixteen  ladies,  and  as 
many  gentlemen,  called  the  fishing  company,  who 
meet  once  a  fortnight  upon  the  Schuylkill.  They 
have  a  very  pleasant  room  erected  in  a  romantic 
situation  upon  the  banks  of  that  river,  where  they 
generally  dine  and  drink  tea.  There  are  several 
pretty  walks  about  it,  and  some  wild  and  rugged 
rocks,  which,  together  with  the  water  and  fine  groves 
that  adorn  the  banks,  form  a  most  beautiful  and 

[97] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

picturesque  scene.  There  are  boats  and  fishing 
tackle  of  all  sorts,  and  the  company  divert  them- 
selves with  walking,  fishing,  going  up  the  water, 
dancing,  singing,  conversing,  or  just  as  they  please. 
The  ladies  wear  an  uniform,  and  appear  with  great 
ease  and  advantage  from  the  neatness  and  simplic- 
ity of  it.  The  first  and  most  distinguished  people 
of  the  colony  are  of  this  society;  and  it  is  very  ad- 
vantageous to  a  stranger  to  be  introduced  to  it,  as 
he  hereby  gets  acquainted  with  the  best  and  most 
respectable  company  in  Philadelphia.  In  the  winter, 
when  there  is  snow  upon  the  ground,  it  is  usual  to 
make  what  they  call  sleighing  parties,  or  to  go  upon 
it  in  sledges;  but  as  this  is  a  practice  well  known  in 
Europe,  it  is  needless  to  describe  it. 

The  present  state  of  Pennsylvania  is  undoubtedly 
very  flourishing.  The  country  is  well  cultivated, 
and  there  are  not  less  than  9,000  wagons  employed 
in  it,  in  different  services.  Till  this  war  they  were 
exempt  from  taxes;  and  it  was  not  without  difficulty 
that  the  Quakers  were  prevailed  upon  to  grant  any 
supplies  for  the  defence  of  the  frontiers,  though  ex- 
posed to  the  most  horrid  cruelties:  it  was  not  from 
principle,  say  their  enemies,  that  they  refused  it, 
but  from  interest;  for  as  they  were  the  first  settlers, 
they  chiefly  occupy  the  interior  and  lower  parts  of 
the  province,  and  are  not  exposed  to  incursions. 
At  length,  however,  compelled  by  clamour  and  pub- 
lic discontent,  they  were  obliged  to  pass  a  supply 

[98] 


Pennsylvania 

bill  for  100,000  1.  to  raise  five  and  twenty  hundred 
men;  and  these  they  have  kept  up  ever  since;  they 
afterward  passed  a  militia  bill,  but  it  was  such  an 
one  as  answered  no  good  purpose.  The  Quakers 
have  much  the  greatest  influence  in  the  assembly, 
and  are  supported  there  by  the  Dutch  and  Germans, 
who  are  as  adverse  to  taxes  as  themselves.  Their 
power,  however,  at  present  seems  rather  on  the  de- 
cline; which  is  the  reason,  as  the  opposite  party 
pretend,  that  they  stir  upon  all  occasions  as  much  con- 
fusion as  possible,  from  that  trite  maxim  in  politics, 
divide  et  impera.  They  have  quarrelled  with  the 
proprietors  upon  several  occasions,  whether  alto- 
gether justly  or  not,  I  will  not  pretend  to  say;  it  is 
certain,  however,  that  the  determinations  at  home 
have  been  sometimes  in  their  favour.  The  late 
subjects  of  their  disputes  have  been  chiefly  these: 

First,  Whether  the  proprietary  lands  ought  to  be 
taxed  ?  This  has  been  determined  at  home  in  the 
affirmative. 

Secondly,  Whether  the  proprietor  ought  to  have 
any  choice  or  approbation  of  the  assessors  ? 

Thirdly,  Whether  he  ought  to  give  his  governor 
instructions  ?  And, 

Lastly,  Whether  the  judges  of  his  appointment 
ought  to  be  during  pleasure,  or  quamdiu  se  bene 
gesserint  ?  These  three  last  are  still  undecided. 

Upon  the  whole,  though  this  province  is  exceed- 
ingly flourishing,  yet  there  are  certainly  great  abuses 

[99] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

in  it;  and  such  as,  if  not  speedily  rectified,  will  be 
productive  of  bad  consequences. 

The  difference  of  exchange  between  bills  and  the 
currency  of  Pennsylvania,  is  about  75  per  cent. 

An  occurrence  happened  to  me  at  Philadelphia, 
which,  though  in  itself  of  a  trifling  nature,  I  cannot 
but  take  notice  of,  as  a  singular  instance  of  the 
strong  possession  which  an  idea  will  sometimes  take 
of  the  mind;  so  as  totally  to  derange  it.  A  lady  from 
Rhode  Island,  who  lodged  in  the  same  house  with 
myself,  had  an  unfortunate  brother  in  the  infirmary, 
a  lunatic.  He  was  supposed  to  be  nearly  well,  and 
was  permitted  occasionally  to  see  company.  A  few 
days  before  I  was  to  leave  Philadelphia,  this  lady 
invited  me  to  accompany  her  in  one  of  her  visits  to 
him;  adding,  that  on  her  inadvertently  mentioning 
to  him  some  circumstances  relating  to  me,  he  had 
expressed  a  most  earnest  desire  to  see  me.  I  strongly 
objected  to  the  proposal,  urging  the  impropriety  of 
introducing  a  stranger,  or,  indeed,  company  of  any 
sort,  to  a  person  in  that  unhappy  situation;  as  it 
might  possibly  agitate  his  mind,  and  retard  his  re- 
covery. I  advised  her  therefore  not  to  take  any 
further  notice  of  it;  hoping  he  might  forget,  or  not 
mention  it  any  more.  The  next  day  she  renewed 
her  application,  adding,  that  her  brother  was  ex- 
ceedingly disappointed;  and  entreated  me  to  attend 
her,  in  so  pressing  a  manner,  that  I  could  not  with 
civility  refuse  it.  On  entering  the  cell,  a  beam  of 

[too] 


Pennsylvania 

satisfaction  seemed  to  dart  from  his  eye,  not  easy  to 
be  expressed  or  conceived.  I  took  him  by  the  hand; 
and,  seating  myself  opposite  the  bed  to  which  he  was 
chained,  immediately  took  the  lead  in  conversation, 
talking  of  indifferent  matters,  such  as  I  thought 
could  not  possibly  tend  to  interest  or  disturb  his 
mind.  I  had  not  proceeded  far  when  he  suddenly 
interrupted  me;  and  proposed  a  question,  which  at 
once  convinced  me  that  he  was  in  a  very  unfit  state 
to  see  company.  I  immediately  therefore  rose  up; 
and  making  an  excuse  that  my  engagements  that 
day  would  not  admit  of  my  entering  into  so  curious 
a  subject,  desired  him  to  reserve  it  for  some  future 
conversation.  He  seemed  greatly  disconcerted;  but 
being  near  the  door,  which  stood  open,  I  took  my 
leave  and  retired.  The  next  morning  I  left  Phila- 
delphia; nor  did  I  think  any  more  of  this  occurrence 
till  I  arrived  at  Rhode  Island,  where  I  was  informed 
that  the  chief,  if  not  sole,  instances  of  insanity 
shewn  by  this  unhappy  young  man,  were  some  at- 
tempts which  he  had  made  to  kill  a  clergyman  of 
the  Church  of  England.  That  he  had  been  edu- 
cated to  be  a  teacher  amongst  the  Congregationalists, 
but  had  taken  it  into  his  head  that  he  could  never 
gain  heaven,  or  be  happy,  but  by  committing  so 
heroic  and  meritorious  an  action.  The  very  even- 
ing of  his  confinement  he  was  prevented  from  ful- 
filling his  purpose,  in  the  instant  when  he  was  raising 
up  his  hand  to  plunge  a  knife  into  the  back  of  a 

[101] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

clergyman,  who  was  reading  the  funeral  service,  in 
the  presence  of  a  large  congregation.  What  his  in- 
tentions were  in  regard  to  myself,  I  cannot  pretend 
to  say;  he  offered  me  no  violence:  but  those  at  Rhode 
Island  of  his  acquaintance,  to  whom  I  related  this 
transaction,  were  fully  persuaded  that  he  was  far 
from  being  cured  of  his  distemper.* 

I  left  Philadelphia  the  6th  of  July,  and  travelled 

*  Since  my  return  to  Europe,  I  have  been  informed  of  an  in- 
stance similar  to  this,  which  happened  at  Florence.  A  gentleman 
had  taken  it  into  his  head  that  a  very  large  diamond  lay  buried 
under  a  mountain  which  stood  upon  his  estate,  and  was  near  ruin- 
ing himself  and  his  family  by  digging  for  it.  His  friends,  by  some 
contrivance  or  other,  got  him  away  to  Florence,  and  placed  him 
under  the  care  of  the  late  celebrated  Dr.  Cocchi.  He  there  ap- 
peared perfectly  composed,  talked  very  rationally,  and,  having 
been  well  educated,  afforded  great  entertainment  to  the  doctor 
and  his  friends,  who  conversed  with  him.  One  day  as  they  were 
sitting  together,  he  mentioned  to  the  doctor,  that  it  was  very  hard 
he  should  be  deprived  of  his  liberty,  when  he  was  perfectly  well; 
and  that  it  was  only  a  scheme  of  his  relations  to  keep  him  in  con- 
finement, in  order  that  they  might  enjoy  his  estate.  The  doctor, 
who  had  perceived  no  marks  of  insanity,  began  to  be  staggered; 
and  promised,  in  case  he  should  see  no  reason  to  alter  his  senti- 
ments, to  sign  a  certificate  of  his  being  well  on  such  a  day,  in  order 
to  its  being  sent  to  England,  that  he  might  have  his  release.  The 
day  arrived,  and  the  doctor  was  preparing  to  perform  his  promise; 
but,  whether  by  design  on  perceiving  something  particular  in  the 
looks  of  his  patient,  or  by  accident,  I  could  not  learn,  he  said  to  the 
gentleman:  "Now,  Sir,  I  beg  from  this  time  that  you  will  think  no 
"  more  of  this  foolish  affair  of  the  mountain  and  diamond."  " Not 
"think  of  the  diamond,"  said  the  madman;  "it  is  for  this  reason 
"that  I  want  my  liberty;  I  know  exactly  the  spot  where  it  lies;  and 
"  I  will  have  it  in  my  possession,  before  I  am  a  year  older." 

This  story  was  related  to  me  in  Tuscany,  and  I  had  no  reason  to 
question  the  truth  of  it. 

[102] 


Princeton 

in  the  stage  as  far  as  Sheminey-ferry,  about  seventeen 
miles;  where  I  was  overtaken  by  a  gentleman  and 
some  ladies  of  my  acquaintance,  who  were  going  a 
few  miles  farther  upon  a  party  of  pleasure.  They 
were  so  obliging  as  to  make  room  for  me  in  one  of 
their  chaises,  and  we  proceeded  and  dined  together 
at  Bristol,  a  small  town  upon  the  Delaware,  op- 
posite Burlington:  in  the  afternoon  we  went  ten  miles 
higher  up  the  river,  and  ferried  over  to  Trenton, 
situated  in  the  Jerseys.  This  is  built  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Delaware,  and  contains  about  a  hundred 
houses.  It  has  nothing  remarkable;  there  is  a 
church,  a  Quaker  and  Presbyterian  meeting-house, 
and  barracks  for  three  hundred  men.  From  hence 
we  went  to  Sir  John  Sinclair's,  at  the  Falls  of  Dela- 
ware, about  a  mile  above  Trenton,  a  pleasant  rural 
retirement,  where  we  spent  a  most  agreeable  evening. 
In  the  morning,  the  company  returned  to  Phila- 
delphia; and,  having  hired  a  chaise,  I  proceeded  to 
Princeton,  twelve  miles  distant. 

At  this  place,  there  is  a  handsome  school  and 
college  for  the  education  of  dissenters,  erected  upon 
the  plan  of  those  in  Scotland.  There  are  about 
twenty  boys  in  the  grammar-school,  and  sixty  in  the 
college:  at  present  there  are  only  two  professors, 
besides  the  provost;  but  they  intend,  as  their  fund 
increases,  which  is  yet  very  small,  and  does  not  ex- 
ceed 2,000  1.  currency,  to  add  to  this  number.  The 
building  is  extremely  convenient,  airy,  and  spacious; 

[103] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

and  has  a  chapel  and  other  proper  offices.  Two 
students  are  in  each  set  of  apartments,  which  con- 
sists of  a  large  bed-room  with  a  fire-place,  and  two 
studies.  There  is  a  small  collection  of  books,  a  few 
instruments,  and  some  natural  curiosities.  The  ex- 
pense to  a  student  for  room-rent,  commons,  and 
tutorage,  amounts  to  25  1.  currency  per  year.  The 
provost  has  a  salary  of  200  1.  currency,  and  the  pro- 
fessors 50  1.  each.  The  name  of  the  college  is  Nassau 
Hall.  From  hence,  in  the  afternoon,  I  proceeded 
to  Brunswick,  eighteen  miles  farther,  a  small  town 
of  about  a  hundred  houses,  situated  upon  Raritan 
river,  where  there  are  also  very  neat  barracks  for 
300  men,  a  church,  and  a  Presbyterian  meeting- 
house. It  is  celebrated  for  the  number  of  its  beau- 
ties; and,  indeed,  at  this  place  and  Philadelphia, 
were  the  handsomest  women  that  I  saw  in  America. 
At  a  small  distance  from  the  town  is  a  copper-mine 
belonging  to  a  Mr.  French,  (I  was  told)  a  pretty 
good  one.  The  next  day  I  rode  up  the  river,  about 
nine  miles  to  the  Raritan  hills,  to  see  a  small  cascade, 
which  falls  about  fifteen  or  twenty  feet,  very  roman- 
ticly,  from  between  two  rocks.  The  country  I  passed 
through  is  exceedingly  rich  and  beautiful;  and  the 
banks  of  the  river  are  covered  with  gentlemen's 
houses.  At  one  of  these  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  some  good  portraits  of  Vandyck,  and  several 
other  small  Dutch  paintings. 

On  Monday  the  yth,  I  proceeded  to  Perth  Amboy, 


Passaic  Falls 

twelve  miles,  the  capital  of  the  East  Jerseys,  which 
is  pleasantly  situated  upon  a  neck  of  land,  included 
between  the  Raritan  and  Amboy  rivers  and  a  large 
open  bay.  This  is  generally  the  place  of  the  gov- 
ernor's residence;  and  alternately,  here  and  at  Bur- 
lington, the  capital  of  the  West  Jerseys,  are  held  the 
assemblies,  and  other  public  meetings;  it  contains 
about  a  hundred  houses,  and  has  very  fine  barracks 
for  300  men.  In  the  afternoon  I  travelled  sixteen 
miles  farther  to  Elizabethtown,  leaving  Wood- 
bridge,  a  small  village  where  there  is  a  printing- 
office,  a  little  on  my  right  hand.  Elizabethtown 
is  built  upon  a  small  creek  or  river  that  falls  into 
Newark  bay,  and  contains  between  two  and  three 
hundred  houses.  It  has  a  court-house,  a  church, 
and  a  meeting-house;  and  barracks  also  like  those 
above  mentioned. 

The  next  morning  I  rode  out,  in  order  to  visit 
Passaic  Falls,  distant  about  twenty-three  miles,  and 
had  a  very  agreeable  tour.  After  riding  six  miles 
I  came  to  a  town  called  Newark,  built  in  an  irregu- 
lar scattered  manner,  after  the  fashion  of  some  of 
our  villages  in  England,  near  two  miles  in  length. 
It  has  a  church  erected  in  the  Gothic  taste  with  a 
spire,  the  first  I  had  seen  in  America;  and  some  other 
inconsiderable  public  buildings.  Immediately  on 
my  leaving  this  place,  I  came  upon  the  banks  of 
Second,  or  Passaic  river,  along  which  I  travelled 
seventeen  or  eighteen  miles  to  the  Falls,  through  a 


Travels    Through   North   America 

rich  country,  interspersed  with  fine  fields  and  gentle- 
men's seats. 

The  Falls  are  very  extraordinary,  different  from 
any  I  had  hitherto  met  with  in  America.  The  river 
is  about  forty  yards  broad,  and  runs  with  a  very 
swift  current,  till  coming  to  a  deep  chasm  or  cleft, 
which  crosses  the  channel,  it  falls  above  seventy  feet 
perpendicular  in  one  entire  sheet.  One  end  of  the 
cleft  is  closed  up,  and  the  water  rushes  out  at  the 
other  with  incredible  rapidity,  in  an  acute  angle  to 
its  former  direction;  and  is  received  into  a  large 
basin.  Hence  it  takes  a  winding  course  through 
the  rocks,  and  spreads  again  into  a  very  consider- 
able channel.  The  cleft  is  from  four  to  twelve  feet 
broad.  The  spray  formed  two  beautiful  (viz.  the 
primary  and  secondary)  rainbows,  and  helped  to 
make  as  fine  a  scene  as  imagination  could  conceive. 
This  extraordinary  phenomenon  is  supposed  to  have 
been  produced  by  an  earthquake.  The  fate  of  two 
Indians  is  delivered  down  by  tradition,  who,  ven- 
turing too  near  the  Falls  in  a  canoe,  were  carried 
down  the  precipice,  and  dashed  to  pieces,  Thirty 
or  forty  yards  above  the  great  Fall,  is  another,  a 
most  beautiful  one,  gliding  over  some  ledges  of  rocks 
each  two  or  three  feet  perpendicular,  which  heightens 
the  scene  very  much. 

From  hence  I  returned,  and  in  my  way  crossed 
over  the  river  to  Colonel  John  Schuyler's  copper 

[106] 


New  "Jersey 

mines,  where  there  is  a  very  rich  vein  of  ore,  and  a 
fire-engine  erected  upon  common  principles. 

After  this  I  went  down  two  miles  farther  to  the 
park  and  gardens  of  this  gentleman's  brother,  Colonel 
Peter  Schuyler.  In  the  gardens  is  a  very  large 
collection  of  citrons,  oranges,  limes,  lemons,  bal- 
sams of  Peru,  aloes,  pomegranates,  and  other  tropi- 
cal plants;  and  in  the  park  I  saw  several  American 
and  English  deer,  and  three  or  four  elks  or  moose- 
deer.  I  arrived  at  Elizabethtown  in  the  evening, 
not  a  little  entertained  with  my  expedition,  but  ex- 
ceedingly fatigued  with  the  violent  heat  of  the  weather 
and  the  many  mosquitoes  that  had  infested  me. 

Before  I  take  leave  of  the  Jerseys,  it  is  necessary 
I  should  give  some  account  of  this  province.  New 
Jersey  is  situated  between  the  3Qth  and  42d  degree 
of  north  latitude,  and  about  seventy-five  degrees 
west  longitude:  it  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the 
Atlantic,  on  the  west  by  Pennsylvania,  or  to  speak 
more  properly  the  Delaware;  on  the  south  by  Dela- 
ware bay;  and  on  the  north  by  Hudson's  river  and 
the  province  of  New  York,  The  climate  is  nearly 
the  same  as  that  of  Pennsylvania:  and  the  soil,  which 
is  a  kind  of  red  slate,  is  so  exceedingly  rich,  that  in 
a  short  time  after  it  has  been  turned  up  and  exposed 
to  the  air  and  moisture,  it  is  converted  into  a  species 
of  marl.* 

*  Since  my  return  from  America,  I  have  met  with  a  gentleman 
(Edward  Wortley  Montagu,  Esq.)  who  had  visited  the  Holy  Land. 

[107] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

New  Jersey  has  very  great  natural  advantages  of 
hills,  valleys,  rivers,  and  large  bays.  The  Dela- 
ware is  on  one  side,  and  Hudson's  river  on  the  other; 
besides  which  it  has  the  Raritan,  Passaic,  and  Amboy 
rivers;  and  Newark  and  New  York  bays.  It  pro- 
duces vast  quantities  of  grain,  besides  hemp,  flax, 
hay,  Indian  corn,  and  other  articles.  It  is  divided 
into  eleven  counties,  and  has  several  small  towns, 
though  not  one  of  consideration.  The  number  of 
its  inhabitants  is  supposed  to  be  70,000:  of  which, 
all  males  between  sixteen  and  sixty,  negroes  ex- 
cepted,  are  obliged  to  serve  in  the  militia.  There 
is  no  foreign  trade  carried  on  from  this  province; 
for  the  inhabitants  sell  their  produce  to  the  merchants 
of  Philadelphia  and  New  York,  and  take  in  return 
European  goods  and  other  necessaries  of  life.  They 
have  some  trifling  manufactures  of  their  own,  but 
nothing  that  deserves  mentioning. 

The  government  consists  of  a  governor,  twelve 
counsellors,  and  a  house  of  representatives  of  about 
twenty-six  members,  the  two  former  nominated  by 
the  king,  the  latter  elected  by  the  people.  Each 
branch  has  a  negative;  they  meet  at  Amboy  and  at 
Burlington  alternately.  The  governor's  salary,  with 

He  described  the  soil  of  that  country  to  be  similar  in  almost  every 
circumstance  to  this  of  the  Jerseys.  He  said  it  appeared  to  be  of 
a  red  slaty  substance,  sterile,  and  incapable  of  producing  any  thing 
worth  the  cultivation;  but  that  being  broken  up  and  exposed  to 
the  air,  it  became  exceedingly  mellow,  and  was  fertile  in  the  highest 
degree. 

[108] 


New  Jersey 

perquisites,  is  about  800,  or  1,000  1.  sterling  a  year; 
he  is  not  allowed  a  house  to  reside  in,  but  is  obliged 
to  hire  one  at  his  own  expense.  There  are  several 
courts  of  judicature  here,  much  like  those  of  the 
other  provinces.  The  justices  hold  quarterly  sessions 
for  petty  larcenies,  and  trifling  causes:  and  the  su- 
preme judge,  with  two  assistant  justices,  holds,  once 
a  year,  a  general  assize,  throughout  the  province, 
of  oyer  and  terminer,  and  common  pleas.  He  holds 
also  annually  four  supreme  courts,  alternately  at 
Amboy  and  Burlington,  of  king's-bench,  common- 
pleas,  and  exchequer.  The  offices  of  chancellor  and 
vice-admiral,  are  executed  by  the  governor;  and  the 
dernier  resort  is  to  his  majesty  in  council. 

There  is  properly  no  established  religion  in  this 
province,  and  the  inhabitants  are  of  various  per- 
suasions: the  society  sends  six  missionaries,  who  are 
generally  well  received;  and  the  church  gains  ground 
daily.  Their  salaries  are  about  the  same  as  in 
Pennsylvania. 

Arts  and  sciences  are  here,  as  in  the  other  parts 
of  America,  just  dawning.  The  college  will  in 
time,  without  doubt,  be  of  considerable  advantage, 
but  being  yet  in  its  infancy,  it  has  not  had  an 
opportunity  of  operating,  or  effecting  any  visible 
improvement. 

The  New  Jersey  men,  as  to  character,  are  like 
most  country  gentlemen,  good  natured,  hospitable, 
and  of  a  more  liberal  turn  than  their  neighbours  the 

[109] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

Pennsylvanians.  They  live  altogether  upon  their 
estates,  and  are  literally  gentlemen  farmers.  The 
country  in  its  present  state  can  scarcely  be  called 
flourishing;  for  although  it  is  extremely  well  culti- 
vated, thickly  seated,  and  the  garden  of  North 
America,  yet,  having  no  foreign  trade,  it  is  deprived 
of  those  riches  and  advantages,  which  it  would  other- 
wise soon  acquire.  There  have  been  some  attempts 
to  remedy  this  defect;  but  whether  from  the  diffi- 
culty of  diverting  a  thing  out  of  a  channel  in  which 
it  has  long  flowed;  or  from  want  of  propriety  or  per- 
severance, in  the  measures,  I  am  unable  to  say;  but 
the  truth  is,  they  have  not  succeeded.  Upon  the 
whole,  however,  this  province  may  be  called  a  rich 
one:  during  the  present  war  it  has  raised  considerable 
supplies,  having  seldom  had  less  than  1,000  men  in 
pay,  with  a  leader  (Colonel  Schuyler)  at  their  head, 
who  has  done  honour  to  his  country  by  his  patriotic 
and  public  spirit.  The  paper  currency  of  this  colony 
is  at  about  70  per  cent,  discount,  but  in  very  good 
repute;  and  preferred  by  the  Pennsylvanians  and 
New  Yorkers  to  that  of  their  own  provinces. 

On  Wednesday  the  Qth  of  July,  I  crossed  over  to 
Staten  Island,  in  the  province  of  New  York;  and 
travelled  upon  it  about  nine  miles  to  the  point  which 
is  opposite  New  York  City. 

In  my  way  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the 
method  of  making  wampum.  This,  the  reader 
probably  knows  is  the  current  money  amongst  the 

[no] 


New  York 

Indians.  It  is  made  of  the  clam  shell;  a  shell,  con- 
sisting within  of  two  colours,  purple  and  white;  and 
in  form  not  unlike  a  thick  oyster  shell.  The  process 
of  manufacturing  it  is  very  simple.  It  is  first  clipped 
to  a  proper  size,  which  is  that  of  a  small  oblong 
parallelepiped,  then  drilled,  and  afterward  ground 
to  a  round  smooth  surface,  and  polished.  The 
purple  wampum  is  much  more  valuable  than  the 
white,  a  very  small  part  of  the  shell  being  of  that 
colour. 

At  the  point  I  embarked  for  New  York;  and,  after 
a  pleasant  passage  over  the  bay,  which  is  three 
leagues  wide;  and  various  delightful  prospects  of 
rivers,  islands,  fields,  hills,  woods,  the  Narrows,  New 
York  City,  vessels  sailing  to  and  fro,  and  innumerable 
porpoises  playing  upon  the  surface  of  the  water,  in 
an  evening  so  serene  that  the  hemisphere  was  not 
ruffled  by  a  single  cloud,  arrived  there  about  the 
setting  of  the  sun. 

This  city  is  situated  upon  the  point  of  a  small 
island,  lying  open  to  the  bay  on  one  side,  and  on  the 
others  included  between  the  North  and  East  rivers; 
and  commands  a  fine  prospect  of  water,  the  Jerseys, 
Long  Island,  Staten  Island,  and  several  others, 
which  lie  scattered  in  the  bay.  It  contains  between 
two  and  three  thousand  houses,  and  16  or  17,000 
inhabitants,  is  tolerably  well  built,  and  has  several 
good  houses.  The  streets  are  paved,  and  very  clean, 
but  in  general  narrow;  there  are  two  or  three,  in- 


Travels   Through   North   America 

deed,  which  are  spacious  and  airy,  particularly  the 
Broadway.  The  houses  in  this  street  have  most 
of  them  a  row  of  trees  before  them;  which  form  an 
agreeable  shade,  and  produce  a  pretty  effect.  The 
whole  length  of  the  town  is  something  more  than  a 
mile;  the  breadth  of  it  about  half  an  one.  The 
situation  is,  I  believe,  esteemed  healthy;  but  it  is 
subject  to  one  great  inconvenience,  which  is  the 
want  of  fresh  water;  so  that  the  inhabitants  are 
obliged  to  have  it  brought  from  springs  at  some  dis- 
tance out  of  town.  There  are  several  public  build- 
ings, though  but  few  that  deserve  attention.  The 
college,  when  finished,  will  be  exceedingly  hand- 
some; it  is  to  be  built  on  three  sides  of  a  quadrangle, 
fronting  Hudson's  or  North  river,  and  will  be  the 
most  beautifully  situated  of  any  college,  I  believe, 
in  the  world.  At  present  only  one  wing  is  finished, 
which  is  of  stone,  and  consists  of  twenty-four  sets 
of  apartments;  each  having  a  large  sitting-room, 
with  a  study,  and  bed-chamber.  They  are  obliged 
to  make  use  of  some  of  these  apartments  for  a 
master's  lodge,  library,  chapel,  hall,  etc.,  but  as  soon 
as  the  whole  shall  be  completed,  there  will  be  proper 
apartments  for  each  of  these  offices.  The  name  of 
it  is  King's  College. 

There  are  two  churches  in  New  York,  the  old  or 
Trinity  Church,  and  the  new  one,  or  St.  George's 
Chapel;*  both  of  them  large  buildings,  the  former 

*  See  Note  X. 

[112] 


New   York 

in  the  Gothic  taste,  with  a  spire,  the  other  upon  the 
model  of  some  of  the  new  churches  in  London. 
Besides  these,  there  are  several  other  places  of  re- 
ligious worship;  namely,  two  Low  Dutch  Calvinist 
churches,  one  High  Dutch  ditto,  one  French  ditto, 
one  German  Lutheran  church,  one  Presbyterian 
meeting-house,  one  Quaker  ditto,  one  Anabaptists 
ditto,  one  Moravian  ditto,  and  a  Jews  synagogue. 
There  is  also  a  very  handsome  charity-school  for 
sixty  poor  boys  and  girls,  a  good  work-house,  bar- 
racks for  a  regiment  of  soldiers,  and  one  of  the  finest 
prisons  I  have  ever  seen.*  The  court  or  stadt- 
house  makes  no  great  figure,  but  it  is  to  be  repaired 
and  beautified.  There  is  a  quadrangular  fort,f 
capable  of  mounting  sixty  cannon,  though  at  present 
there  are,  I  believe,  only  thirty-two.  Within  this 
is  the  governor's  palace,  and  underneath  it  a  battery 
capable  of  mounting  ninety-four  guns,  and  barracks 
for  a  company  or  two  of  soldiers.  Upon  one  of  the 
islands  in  the  bay  is  an  hospital  for  sick  and  wounded 
seamen;  and,  upon  another,  a  pest-house.  These 
are  the  most  noted  public  buildings  in  and  about  the 
city. 

The  province  of  New  York  is  situated  between 
the  4Oth  and  45th  degree  of  north  latitude,  and  about 
75  degrees  west  longitude.  It  lies  in  a  fine  climate, 
and  enjoys  a  very  wholesome  air.  The  soil  of  most 

*  See  Note  XI. 

f  See  Note  XII. 


Travels    Through   North   America 

parts  of  it  is  extremely  good,  particularly  of  Long 
Island:  and  it  has  the  advantages  of  a  fine  harbour, 
and  fine  rivers.  The  bay  has  a  communication  with 
Newark  bay,  the  Sound,  Amboy  river,  and  several 
others:  it  receives  also  Hudson's  or  North  river,  one 
of  the  largest  in  North  America,  it  being  navigable 
for  sloops  as  far  as  Albany,  above  150  miles:  whence, 
by  the  Mohawk,  and  other  rivers,  running  through 
the  country  of  the  Six  Nations,  there  is  a  communi- 
cation, (excepting  a  few  short  carrying  places,)  with 
lake  Ontario;  and  another  with  the  river  St.  Lau- 
rence, through  the  lakes  George,  Champlain,  and 
the  river  Sorel;  so  that  this  river  seems  to  merit  the 
greatest  attention.  These  waters  afford  various 
kinds  of  fish,  black-fish,  sea-bass,  sheeps-heads, 
rock-fish,  lobsters,  and  several  others,  all  excellent 
in  their  kind.  The  province  in  its  cultivated  state 
affords  grain  of  all  sorts,  cattle,  hogs,  and  great 
variety  of  English  fruits,  particularly  the  Newtown 
pippin.  It  is  divided  into  ten  counties,  and  has 
some  few  towns,  but  none  of  any  size,  except  Albany 
and  Schenectady,  the  former  of  which  is  a  very  con- 
siderable place.  The  number  of  inhabitants  amounts 
to  nearly  100,000;  15  or  20,000  of  which  are  sup- 
posed to  be  capable  of  bearing  arms,  and  of  serving 
in  the  militia;  but  I  believe  this  number  is  exagger- 
ated, as  a  considerable  part  of  the  100,000  are 
negroes,  which  are  imported  more  frequently  into 
this  province  than  into  Pennsylvania.  The  people 


New    York 

carry  on  an  extensive  trade,  and  there  are  said  to  be 
cleared  out  annually  from  New  York,*  tons  of  ship- 
ping. They  export  chiefly  grain,  flour,  pork,  skins, 
furs,  pig  iron,  lumber,  and  staves.  Their  manu- 
factures, indeed,  are  not  extensive,  nor  by  any  means 
to  be  compared  with  those  of  Pennsylvania;  they 
make  a  small  quantity  of  cloth,  some  linen,  hats, 
shoes,  and  other  articles  for  wearing  apparel.  They 
make  glass  also,  and  wampum;  refine  sugars,  which 
they  import  from  the  West  Indies;  and  distill  con- 
siderable quantities  of  rum.  They  also,  as  well  as 
the  Pennsylvanians,  till  both  were  restrained  by  act 
of  Parliament,  had  erected  several  slitting  mills,  to 
make  nails,  etc.  But  this  is  now  prohibited,  and 
they  are  exceedingly  dissatisfied  at  it.  They  have 
several  other  branches  of  manufactures,  but,  in 
general,  so  inconsiderable,  that  I  shall  not  take 
notice  of  them:  one  thing  it  may  be  necessary  to 
mention,  I  mean  the  article  of  shipbuilding;  about 
which,  in  different  parts  of  the  province,  they  em- 
ploy many  hands. f 

The  government  of  this  colony  is  lodged  in  the 
hands  of  a  governor  appointed  by  the  crown;  a  coun- 
cil consisting  of  twelve  members,  named  by  the  same 
authority;  and  a  house  of  twenty-seven  representa- 
tives, elected  by  the  people:  four  for  the  city  and 
county  of  New  York;  two  for  the  city  and  county 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  2. 
f  See  Appendix,  No.  2. 


Travels   Through  North  America 

of  Albany;  two  for  each  of  the  other  eight  counties; 
one  for  the  borough  of  West  Chester;  one  for  the 
township  of  Schenectady;  and  one  for  each  of  the 
three  manors  of  Rensselaerwyck,  Livingston,  and 
Cortlandt.  The  legislative  power  is  entirely  lodged 
in  their  hands,  each  branch  having  a  negative;  ex- 
cept that,  as  in  the  other  colonies,  all  laws  must  have 
the  king's  approbation,  and  not  interfere  with,  or  be 
repugnant  to,  the  laws  of  Great  Britain. 

The  courts  of  judicature  are  similar,  I  believe,  in 
every  respect,  to  those  in  the  Jerseys. 

The  established  religion  is  that  of  the  Church  of 
England,  there  being  six  churches  in  this  province 
with  stipends  (to  the  value  of  about  50  1.  currency) 
annexed  to  each  by  law.  The  clergy  are  twelve  in 
number,  who,  exclusive  of  what  they  acquire  by  the 
establishment  above-mentioned,  or  by  contributions, 
receive,  as  missionaries  from  the  Society  for  the  Prop- 
agation of  the  Gospel,  50  1.  sterling  each.  Besides 
the  religion  of  the  Church  of  England,  there  is  a 
variety  of  others:  dissenters  of  all  denominations, 
particularly  Presbyterians,  abound  in  great  num- 
bers, and  there  are  some  few  Roman  Catholics. 

Arts  and  sciences  have  made  no  greater  progress 
here  than  in  the  other  colonies;  but  as  a  subscription 
library*  has  been  lately  opened,  and  every  one  seems 
zealous  to  promote  learning,  it  may  be  hoped  they 
will  hereafter  advance  faster  than  they  have  done 

*  See  Note  XIII. 

[116] 


New   York 

hitherto.  The  college  is  established  upon  the  same 
plan  as  that  in  the  Jerseys,  except  that  this  at  New 
York  professes  the  principles  of  the  Church  of  Eng- 
land. At  present  the  state  of  it  is  far  from  being 
flourishing,  or  so  good  as  might  be  wished.  Its  fund 
does  not  exceed  10,000  1.  currency,  and  there  is  a 
great  scarcity  of  professors.  A  commencement  was 
held,  nevertheless,  this  summer,  and  seven  gentle- 
men took  degrees.  There  are  in  it  at  this  time  about 
twenty-five  students.*  The  president,  Dr.  Johnson, 
is  a  very  worthy  and  learned  man,  but  rather  too 
far  advanced  in  life  to  have  the  direction  of  so  new 
an  institution.  The  late  Dr.  Bristow  left  to  this 
college  a  fine  library,  of  which  they  are  in  daily 
expectation. 

The  inhabitants  of  New  York,  in  their  character, 
very  much  resemble  the  Pennsylvanians:  more  than 
half  of  them  are  Dutch,  and  almost  all  traders:  they 
are,  therefore,  habitually  frugal,  industrious,  and 
parsimonious.  Being,  however,  of  different  nations, 
different  languages,  and  different  religions,  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  give  them  any  precise  or  deter- 
minate character.  The  women  are  handsome  and 
agreeable;  though  rather  more  reserved  than  the 
Philadelphian  ladies.  Their  amusements  are  much 
the  same  as  in  Pennsylvania;  viz.  balls,  and  sleighing 
expeditions  in  the  winter;  and,  in  the  summer,  going 
in  parties  upon  the  water,  and  fishing;  or  making 

*  See  Note  XIV. 

In?] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

excursions  into  the  country.  There  are  several 
houses  pleasantly  situated  upon  East  river,  near  New 
York,  where  it  is  common  to  have  turtle  feasts:  these 
happen  once  or  twice  in  a  week.  Thirty  or  forty 
gentlemen  and  ladies  meet  and  dine  together,  drink 
tea  in  the  afternoon,  fish  and  amuse  themselves  till 
evening,  and  then  return  home  in  Italian  chaises, 
(the  fashionable  carriage  in  this  and  most  parts  of 
America,  Virginia  excepted,  where  they  chiefly 
make  use  of  coaches,  and  these  commonly  drawn 
by  six  horses),  a  gentleman  and  lady  in  each  chaise. 
In  the  way  there  is  a  bridge,  about  three  miles  dis- 
tant from  New  York,  which  you  always  pass  over 
as  you  return,  called  the  Kissing  Bridge;  where  it 
is  a  part  of  the  etiquette  to  salute  the  lady  who  has 
put  herself  under  your  protection.* 

The  present  state  of  this  province  is  flourishing: 
it  has  an  extensive  trade  to  many  parts  of  the  world, 
particularly  to  the  West  Indies;  and  has  acquired 
great  riches  by  the  commerce  which  it  has  carried 
on,  under  flags  of  truce,  to  Cape  Fra^ois,  and 
Monte  Christo.  The  troops,  by  having  made  it  the 
place  of  their  general  rendezvous,  have  also  enriched 
it  very  much.  However,  it  is  burthened  with  taxes, 
and  the  present  public  debt  amounts  to  more  than 
300,000  1.  currency.  The  taxes  are  laid  upon  estates 
real  and  personal;  and  there  are  duties  upon  negroes, 
and  other  importations.  The  provincial  troops  are 

*  See  Note  XV- 

[118] 


Newport 

about  2,600  men.  The  difference  of  exchange  be- 
tween currency  and  bills,  is  from  70  to  80  per  cent. 

Before  I  left  New  York,  I  took  a  ride  upon  Long 
Island,  the  richest  spot,  in  the  opinion  of  the  New 
Yorkers,  of  all  America;  and  where  they  generally 
have  their  villas,  or  country  houses.  It  is  undeni- 
ably beautiful,  and  some  parts  of  it  are  remarkably 
fertile,  but  not  equal,  I  think,  to  the  Jerseys.  The 
length  of  it  is  something  more  than  100  miles,  and 
the  breadth  25.  About  15  or  16  miles  from  the  west 
end  of  it,  there  opens  a  large  plain  between  20  and 
30  miles  long,  and  4  or  5  broad.  There  is  not  a 
tree  growing  upon  it,  and  it  is  asserted  that  there 
never  were  any.  Strangers  are  always  carried  to 
see  this  place,  as  a  great  curiosity,  and  the  only  one 
of  the  kind  in  North  America. 

Tuesday,  the  5th  of  August,  being  indisposed,  and 
unable  to  travel  any  farther  by  land,  I  embarked  on 
board  a  brigantine  for  Rhode  Island.  We  made 
sail  up  the  Sound  with  a  fair  wind,  and  after  two 
hours,  passed  through  Hell  Gate.  It  is  impossible 
to  go  through  this  place  without  recalling  to  mind 
the  description  of  Scylla  and  Charybdis.  The 
breadth  of  the  Sound  is  here  half  a  mile,  but  the 
channel  is  very  narrow,  not  exceeding  eighty  yards: 
the  water  runs  with  great  rapidity,  and  in  different 
currents,  only  one  of  which  will  carry  a  vessel  through 
with  safety;  for,  on  one  side,  there  is  a  shoal  of  rocks 
just  peeping  above  the  water;  and,  on  the  other,  a 


Travels    Through   North   America 

dreadful  vortex  produced  by  a  rock  lying  about  nine 
feet  under  the  surface:  if  therefore  you  get  into  any 
but  the  right  current,  you  are  either  dashed  upon 
the  shoal,  or  else  sucked  into  the  eddy,  whirled  round 
with  incredible  rapidity,  and  at  length  swallowed  up 
in  the  vortex.  There  are  exceeding  good  pilots  to 
navigate  vessels  through  this  place,  notwithstanding 
which,  they  are  frequently  lost.  The  proper  time 
of  passing  it  is  at  high  water.  We  had  pleasant 
weather  during  the  passage,  which  is  about  seventy 
leagues,  with  beautiful  views  of  Long  Island  and 
Connecticut;  and  arrived  in  the  harbour  at  Newport 
the  yth  of  August. 

This  town  is  situated  upon  a  small  island,  about 
twelve  miles  in  length,  and  five  or  six  in  breadth, 
called  Rhode  Island,  whence  the  province  takes  its 
name.  It  is  the  capital  city,  and  contains  800,  or 
1,000  houses,  chiefly  built  of  wood;  and  6  or  7000 
inhabitants.  There  are  few  buildings  in  it  worth 
notice.  The  courthouse  is  indeed  handsome,  and 
of  brick;  and  there  is  a  public  library,  built  in  the 
form  of  a  Grecian  temple,  by  no  means  inelegant.* 
It  is  of  the  Doric  order,  and  has  a  portico  in  front 
with  four  pillars,  supporting  a  pediment;  but  the 
whole  is  spoilt  by  two  small  wings,  which  are  annexed 
to  it.  The  foundation  of  a  very  pretty  building  is 
laid  for  the  use  of  the  Free  Masons,  to  serve  also 
occasionally  for  an  assembly-room;  and  there  is 

*  See  XVI. 

[120] 


Rhode   Island 

going  to  be  erected  a  market-house,  upon  a  very 
elegant  design.  The  places  of  public  worship,  ex- 
cept the  Jews'  synagogue,  are  all  of  wood;  and  not 
one  of  them  is  worth  looking  at.  They  consist  chiefly 
of  a  church,  two  Presbyterian  meeting-houses,  one 
Quaker  ditto,  three  Anabaptists  ditto,  one  Moravian 
ditto,  and  the  synagogue  above  mentioned.  This 
building  was  designed,  as  indeed  were  several  of  the 
others,  by  a  Mr.  Harrison,  an  ingenious  English 
gentleman  who  lives  here.  It  will  be  extremely  ele- 
gant within  when  completed:  but  the  outside  is  totally 
spoilt  by  a  school,  which  the  Jews  would  have  an- 
nexed to  it  for  the  education  of  their  children. 
Upon  a  small  island,  before  the  town,  is  part  of  a  fine 
fortification,  designed  to  consist  of  a  pentagon  fort, 
and  an  upper  and  lower  battery.  Only  two  of  the 
curtains,  and  a  ravelin,  are  yet  finished;  and  it  is 
doubted  whether  the  whole  will  ever  be  completed. 
There  are  now  mounted  upon  it  26  cannon;  but  the 
works,  when  complete,  will  require  above  150.  At 
the  entrance  of  the  harbour  there  is  likewise  an  ex- 
ceeding good  light-house.  These  are  the  chief  pub- 
lic buildings. 

Three  miles  from  the  town  is  an  indifferent  wooden 
house,  built  by  Dean  Berkeley,*  when  he  was  in  these 
parts:  the  situation  is  low,  but  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  ocean,  and  of  some  wild  rugged  rocks  that  are 
on  the  left  hand  of  it.  They  relate  here  several 

*  See  Note  XVII. 


Travels   in   North   America 

stories  of  the  dean's  wild  and  chimerical  notions; 
which,  as  they  are  characteristic  of  that  extraordinary 
man,  deserve  to  be  taken  notice  of:  one  in  particular 
I  must  beg  the  reader's  indulgence  to  allow  me  to 
repeat  to  him.  The  dean  had  formed  the  plan  of 
building  a  town  upon  the  rocks  which  I  have  just 
now  taken  notice  of,  and  of  cutting  a  road  through 
a  sandy  beach  which  lies  a  little  below  it,  in  order 
that  ships  might  come  up  and  be  sheltered  in  bad 
weather.  He  was  so  full  of  this  project,  as  one  day 
to  say  to  one  Smibert,  a  designer,*  whom  he  had 
brought  over  with  him  from  Europe,  on  the  latter's 
asking  some  ludicrous  question  concerning  the  future 
importance  of  the  place:  "Truly,  you  have  very 
"little  foresight,  for  in  fifty  years  time  every  foot  of 
"land  in  this  place  will  be  as  valuable  as  the  land  in 
"Cheapside."  The  dean's  house,  notwithstanding 
his  prediction,  is  at  present  nothing  better  than  a 
farmhouse,  and  his  library  is  converted  into  the 
dairy:  when  he  left  America,  he  gave  it  to  the  college 
at  New  Haven  in  Connecticut,  who  have  let  it  to  a 
farmer  on  a  long  lease:  his  books  he  divided  between 
this  college  and  that  in  Massachusetts.  The  dean 
is  said  to  have  written  in  this  place  The  Minute 
Philosopher. 

The  province  of  Rhode  Island  is  situated  between 
the  4ist  and  42d  degree  of  north  latitude;  and  about 
72  or  73  degrees  west  longitude,  in  the  most  healthy 

*  See  Note  XVIII. 

[122] 


Rhode   Island 

climate  of  North  America.  The  winters  are  severe, 
though  not  equally  so  with  those  of  the  other  prov- 
inces; but  the  summers  are  delightful,  especially  in 
the  island;  the  violent  and  excessive  heats,  to  which 
America  is  in  general  subject,  being  allayed  by  the 
cool  and  temperate  breezes  that  come  from  the  sea. 
The  soil  is  tolerably  good,  though  rather  too  stony; 
its  natural  produce  is  maize  or  Indian  corn,  with  a 
variety  of  shrubs  and  trees.  It  produces  in  particu- 
lar the  button-tree*;  the  spruce-pine,  of  the  young 
twigs  of  which  is  made  excellent  beer;  and  the  pseudo- 
acacia,  or  locust-tree;  but  none  of  those  fine  flower- 
ing trees,  which  are  such  an  ornament  to  the  woods 
in  Carolina  and  Virginia.  It  enjoys  many  advan- 
tages, has  several  large  rivers,  and  one  of  the  finest 
harbours  in  the  world.  Fish  are  in  the  greatest 
plenty  and  perfection,  particularly  the  tataag  or 
black-fish,  lobsters,  and  sea  bass.  In  its  cultivated 
state,  it  produces  very  little,  except  sheep  and  horned 
cattle,  the  whole  province  being  laid  out  into  pas- 
ture or  grazing  ground.  The  horses  are  bony  and 
strong,  and  the  oxen  much  the  largest  in  America, 
several  of  them  weighing  from  16  to  1,800  weight. 
The  butter  and  cheese  are  excellent. 

The  province  of  Rhode  Island  is  divided  into 
counties  and  townships;  of  the  former  there  are  four 
or  five,  but  they  are  exceedingly  small;  of  the  latter 
between  twenty  and  thirty;  the  towns  themselves 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  i. 


Travels   Through   North   America 

are  inconsiderable  villages:  however,  they  send  mem- 
bers to  the  assembly,  in  the  whole  about  seventy. 
The  number  of  inhabitants,  with  negroes,  and  In- 
dians, of  which  in  this  province  there  are  several 
hundreds,  amounts  to  35,000.  As  the  province 
affords  but  few  commodities  for  exportation,  horses, 
provisions,  and  an  inconsiderable  quantity  of  grain, 
with  spermaceti  candles,  being  the  chief  articles, 
they  are  obliged  to  Connecticut,  and  the  neighbour- 
ing colonies,  for  most  of  their  traffic;  and  by  their 
means  they  carry  on  an  extensive  trade.  Their  mode 
of  commerce  is  this:  they  trade  to  Great  Britain, 
Holland,  Africa,  the  West  Indies,  and  the  neigh- 
bouring colonies;  from  each  of  which  places  they 
import  the  following  articles:  from  Great  Britain, 
dry  goods;  from  Holland,  money;  from  Africa,  slaves; 
from  the  West  Indies,  sugars,  coffee,  and  molasses; 
and  from  the  neighbouring  colonies,  lumber  and 
provisions:  and  with  what  they  purchase  in  one  place 
they  make  their  returns  in  another.  Thus  with  the 
money  they  get  in  Holland,  they  pay  their  merchants 
in  London;  the  sugars  they  procure  in  the  West 
Indies,  they  carry  to  Holland;  the  slaves  they  fetch 
from  Africa  they  send  to  the  West  Indies,  together 
with  lumber  and  provisions,  which  they  get  from  the 
neighbouring  colonies;  the  rum  that  they  distill  they 
export  to  Africa;  and  with  the  dry  goods,  which  they 
purchase  in  London,  they  traffic  in  the  neighbour- 
ing colonies.  By  this  kind  of  circular  commerce 

[124] 


Rhode   Island 

they  subsist  and  grow  rich.  They  have  besides  these 
some  other  inconsiderable  branches  of  trade,  but 
nothing  worth  mentioning.  They  have  very  few 
manufactures;  they  distill  rum  and  make  sper- 
maceti candles;  but  in  the  article  of  dry  goods, 
they  are  far  behind  the  people  of  New  York  and 
Pennsylvania. 

The  government  of  this  province  is  entirely  demo- 
cratical,  every  officer,  except  the  collector  of  the  cus- 
toms, being  appointed,  I  believe,  either  immediately 
by  the  people,  or  by  the  general  assembly.  The 
people  choose  annually  a  governor,  lieutenant-gov- 
ernor, and  ten  assistants,  which  constitute  an  upper 
house.  The  representatives,  or  lower  house,  are 
elected  every  half  year.  These  jointly  have  the 
appointment  of  all  other  public  officers,  (except  the 
recorder,  treasurer,  and  attorney-general,  which  are 
appointed  likewise  annually  by  the  people)  both 
military  and  civil;  are  invested  with  the  powers  of 
legislation,  of  regulating  the  militia,  and  of  perform- 
ing all  other  acts  of  government.  The  governor  has 
no  negative,  but  votes  with  the  assistants,  and  in 
case  of  an  equality  has  a  casting  voice.  The  assem- 
bly, or  two  houses  united,  are  obliged  to  sit  imme- 
diately after  each  election;  at  Newport  in  the  summer, 
and  in  the  winter  alternately  at  Providence  and  South 
Kingston  in  Narraganset:  they  adjourn  themselves, 
but  may  be  called  together,  notwithstanding  such 
adjournment,  upon  any  urgent  occasion  by  the  gov- 


Travels    Through   North   America 

ernor.     No  assistant,  or  representative,  is   allowed 
any  salary  or  pay  for  his  attendance  or  service. 

There  are  several  courts  of  judicature.  The  as- 
sembly nominates  annually  so  many  justices  for  each 
township,  as  are  deemed  necessary.  These  have 
power  to  join  people  in  matrimony,  and  to  exercise 
other  acts  of  authority  usually  granted  to  this  order 
of  magistrates.  Any  two  of  them  may  hear  causes 
concerning  small  debts  and  trespasses;  and  three 
may  try  criminals  for  thefts,  not  exceeding  ten  pounds 
currency.  Appeals  in  civil  causes  are  allowed  to 
the  inferior  courts  of  common-pleas;  in  criminal 
ones  to  the  sessions  of  the  peace;  and  in  these  the 
determinations  are  final.  The  sessions  are  held  in 
each  county  twice  every  year  by  five  or  more  justices; 
they  adjudge  all  matters  relating  to  the  preservation 
of  the  peace,  and  the  punishment  of  criminals,  ex- 
cept in  cases  of  death.  Appeals  are  allowed  from 
this  court,  in  all  causes  that  have  originated  in  it,  to 
the  superior  one.  The  inferior  courts  of  common- 
pleas  sit  twice  every  year  in  each  county,  and  are  held 
by  three  or  more  justices.  They  take  cognizance  of 
all  civil  causes  whatsoever,  triable  at  common  law; 
and  if  any  one  thinks  himself  aggrieved  here,  he  may 
appeal  to  the  superior  one;  which  is  held  also  annu- 
ally twice  in  each  county,  by  three  judges,  and  which 
exercises  all  the  authority  of  a  court  of  king's-bench, 
common-pleas,  and  exchequer.  The  dernier  resort 
is  to  the  king  in  council,  but  this  only  in  cases  of 

[126] 


Rhode   Island 

300  1.  value,  new  tenor.  The  people  have  the  power 
of  pardoning  criminals,  except  in  cases  of  piracy, 
murder,  or  high  treason;  and  then  it  is  doubted 
whether  they  can  even  reprieve. 

There  is  no  established  form  of  religion  here;  but 
Church  of  England  men,  independents,  Quakers,  Ana- 
baptists, Moravians,  Jews,  and  all  other  sects  what- 
soever, have  liberty  to  exercise  their  several  profes- 
sions. The  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gos- 
pel sends  only  four  missionaries. 

Arts  and  sciences  are  almost  unknown,  except  to 
some  few  individuals;  and  there  are  no  public  semi- 
naries of  learning;  nor  do  the  Rhode  Islanders  in 
general  seem  to  regret  the  want  of  them.  The  in- 
stitution of  a  library  society,  which  has  lately  taken 
place,  may  possibly  in  time  produce  a  change  in  these 
matters. 

The  character  of  the  Rhode  Islanders  is  by  no 
means  engaging,  or  amiable,  a  circumstance  prin- 
cipally owing  to  their  form  of  government.  Their 
men  in  power,  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest,  are 
dependent  upon  the  people,  and  frequently  act  with- 
out that  strict  regard  to  probity  and  honour,  which 
ought  invariably  to  influence  and  direct  mankind. 
The  private  people  are  cunning,  deceitful,  and  self- 
ish: they  live  almost  entirely  by  unfair  and  illicit 
trading.  Their  magistrates  are  partial  and  corrupt: 
and  it  is  folly  to  expect  justice  in  their  courts  of  judi- 
cature; for  he  who  has  the  greatest  influence  is 

[127] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

generally  found  to  have  the  fairest  cause.*  Were 
the  governor  to  interpose  his  authority,  were  he  to 
refuse  to  grant  flags  of  truce,  f  or  not  to  wink  at 
abuses,  he  would  at  the  expiration  of  the  year  be  ex- 
cluded from  his  office,  the  only  thing  perhaps  which 
he  has  to  subsist  upon.  Were  the  judges  to  act  with 
impartiality,  and  to  decide  a  cause  to  the  prejudice 
or  disadvantage  of  any  great  or  popular  leader,  they 
would  probably  never  be  re-elected;  indeed,  they  are 
incapable  in  general  of  determining  the  merits  of  a 
suit,  for  they  are  exceedingly  illiterate,  and,  where 
they  have  nothing  to  make  them  partial,  are  man- 
aged almost  entirely  by  the  lawyers.  In  short,  to 
give  an  idea  of  the  wretched  state  of  this  colony,  it 
has  happened  more  than  once  that  a  person  has  had 
sufficient  influence  to  procure  a  fresh  emission  of 
paper-money,  solely  to  defraud  his  creditors:  for 
having  perhaps  borrowed  a  considerable  sum  of 

*  The  form  of  their  judical  oath,  or  affirmation  (says  Douglas, 
in  his  Summary),  does  not  invoke  the  judgments  of  the  omniscient 
God,  who  sees  in  secret,  but  only  upon  peril  of  the  penalty  of  per- 
jury. This  does  not  seem  (adds  the  same  author  in  a  note)  to  be 
a  sacred  or  solemn  oath,  and  may  be  illustrated  by  the  story  of 
two  profligate  thieves;  one  of  them  had  stolen  something,  and  told 
his  friend  of  it:  well,  says  his  friend,  but  did  any  body  see  you  ? 
No:  then,  says  his  friend,  it  is  yours  as  much  as  if  you  had  bought 
it  with  your  money.  Vol.  ii.  p.  95. 

f  It  was  usual  during  the  late  war  for  several  governors  in  North 
America,  on  receiving  a  pecuniary  consideration,  to  grant  to  the 
merchants  flags  of  truce,  by  which  they  were  licensed  to  go  to  the 
French  West  Indian  Islands,  in  order  to  exchange  prisoners.  The 
real  scope  and  design  of  the  voyage  was,  to  carry  on  a  prohibited 

[128] 


Rhode   Island 

money,  when  the  difference  of  exchange  has  been 
1,200  per  cent,  he  has  afterward,  under  sanction  of 
the  law,  repaid  only  the  same  nominal  sum  in  new 
currency,  when  the  difference  has  amounted  per- 
haps to  2,500  per  cent.  Such,  alas!  is  the  situation 
and  character  of  this  colony.  It  is  needless,  after 
this,  to  observe  that  it  is  in  a  very  declining  state, 
for  it  is  impossible  that  it  should  prosper  under  such 
abuses.  Its  West  Indian  trade  has  diminished, 
owing  indeed,  in  some  measure,  to  the  other  colonies 
having  entered  more  largely  into  this  lucrative  branch 
of  commerce:  it  has  lost  during  the  war,  by  the  enemy, 
above  150  vessels:  its  own  privateers,  and  it  has  gen- 
erally had  a  great  many,  have  had  very  ill  success: 
having  kept  up  a  regiment  of  provincial  troops,  it  has 
also  been  loaded  with  taxes,  and  many  of  the  people 
have  been  oppressed  by  the  mode  of  collecting  them: 
for,  the  assembly  having  determined  the  quota  of 
each  township,  the  inhabitants  have  been  assessed 

trade  with  the  French,  and  to  supply  them  with  stores  and  pro- 
visions. Two  or  three  prisoners  were  sufficient  to  cover  the  de- 
sign; and  in  order  to  have  a  store  in  readiness,  they  seldom  carried 
more.  By  this  abuse  both  governors  and  merchants  acquired 
great  riches.  Very  plausible  arguments  indeed  might  be  adduced 
against  prohibiting,  or  even  restraining  a  commerce  of  that  nature: 
but  as  the  wisdom  of  government  did  think  fit,  and  probably  with 
better  reason,  to  forbid  it,  nothing  could  excuse  the  corrupt  and 
mercenary  spirit  of  those  governors,  who  presumed  to  connive  at 
and  encourage  it.  The  Honourable  Francis  Fauquier,  lieutenant- 
governor  of  Virginia,  who,  amongst  some  few  others,  never  could 
be  prevailed  upon  to  countenance  it,  refused  at  one  time  an  offer 
of  near  200  1.  for  the  grant  of  a  permit  to  make  a  single  voyage. 

[129] 


Travels    Through  North   America 

by  the  town  council*,  consisting  of  the  assistants  re- 
siding there,  the  justices  of  the  town,  and  a  few  free- 
holders elected  annually  by  the  freemen;  and  these- 
have  been  generally  partial  in  their  assessments,  as 
must  necessarily  happen  under  a  combination  of 
such  circumstances.  After  having  said  so  much  to 
the  disadvantage  of  this  colony,  I  should  be  guilty 
of  injustice  and  ingratitude,  were  I  not  to  declare 
that  there  are  many  worthy  gentlemen  in  it,  who  see 
the  misfortunes  of  their  country,  and  lament  them; 
who  are  sensible  that  they  arise  from  the  wretched 
nature  of  the  government,  and  wish  to  have  it  altered; 
who  are  courteous  and  polite,  kind  and  hospitable 
to  strangers,  and  capable  of  great  acts  of  generosity 
and  goodness,  as  I  myself  experienced  during  a  very 
severe  fit  of  sickness  which  I  lay  under  at  this  place. 
The  paper-money  here  is  as  bad  as  it  is  possible 
to  be,  the  difference  of  exchange  being  at  least  2,500 
per  cent. 

The  4th  of  September  I  took  leave  of  Newport, 
and  having  crossed  over  the  river  at  Bristol  Ferry, 
where  it  is  about  a  mile  broad,  and  two  other  incon- 

*  Each  township  is  managed  by  a  town  council,  consisting  of 
the  assistants  who  reside  in  the  town,  the  justices  of  the  town,  and 
six  freeholders  chosen  annually  by  the  freemen  of  the  town;  the 
major  part  of  them  is  a  quorum,  with  full  power  to  manage  the 
affairs  and  interest  of  the  town  to  which  they  respectively  belong, 
to  grant  licenses  to  public  houses;  and  are  a  probate  office  for 
proving  wills,  and  granting  administration,  with  appeal  to  gov- 
ernor and  council,  as  supreme  ordinary.  Douglas's  Summary, 
vol.  ii.  p.  85. 

[13°] 


Boston 

siderable  ferries,  I  arrived  in  the  evening  at  Prov- 
idence. This  is  the  chief  town  of  what  was  formerly 
called  Providence  Plantation  in  Narraganset,  and 
is  at  present  the  second  considerable  town  in  the 
province  of  Rhode  Island.  It  is  situated  upon  a 
pretty  large  river,  and  is  distant  from  Newport  about 
thirty  miles.  In  the  morning  I  set  out  for  Boston, 
and  arrived  there  about  sunset,  after  a  journey  of 
five  and  forty  miles.  The  country  which  I  travelled 
over  is  chiefly  grazing  ground,  laid  out  into  neat  en- 
closures, surrounded  with  stone  walls,  and  rows  of 
pseudo  acacia  or  locust-trees,  which  are  said  with 
their  leaves  to  manure  and  fertilize  the  land.  I  passed 
over  a  beautiful  fall  of  water  in  Pawtucket  river,  upon 
a  bridge,  which  is  built  directly  over  it.  The  fall 
is  about  twenty  feet  high,  through  several  chasms 
in  a  rock,  which  runs  diametrically  across  it,  and 
serves  as  a  dam  to  hold  up  the  water.  There  are 
two  or  three  mills,  which  have  been  erected  for  the 
advantage  of  having  the  different  spouts  or  streams 
of  water  conducted  to  their  respective  wheels.  These 
have  taken  very  much  from  the  beauty  of  the  scene, 
which  would  otherwise  be  transcendantly  elegant; 
for  the  fall,  though  not  large  or  upon  a  great  scale, 
is  by  far  the  most  romantic  and  picturesque  of  any 
that  I  met  with  in  my  tour. 

During  the  course  of  my  ride  from  Newport,  I 
observed  prodigious  flights  of  wild  pigeons*:  they 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  i. 


^Travels    'Through   North   America 

directed  their  course  to  the  southward,  and  the 
hemisphere  was  never  entirely  free  from  them.  They 
are  birds  of  passage,  of  beautiful  plumage,  and  are 
excellent  eating.  The  accounts  given  of  their  num- 
bers are  almost  incredible;  yet  they  are  so  well  at- 
tested, and  the  opportunities  of  proving  the  truth  of 
them  are  so  frequent,  as  not  to  admit  of  their  be- 
ing called  in  question.  Towards  evening  they  gen- 
erally settle  upon  trees,  and  sit  one  upon  another 
in  such  crowds,  as  sometimes  to  break  down  the 
largest  branches.  The  inhabitants  at  such  times 
go  out  with  long  poles,  and  knock  numbers  of  them 
on  the  head  upon  the  roost;  for  they  are  either  so 
fatigued  by  their  flight,  or  terrified  by  the  obscurity 
of  the  night,  that  they  will  not  move,  or  take  wing, 
without  some  great  and  uncommon  noise  to  alarm 
them.  I  met  with  scarcely  any  other  food  at  the 
ordinaries  where  I  put  up:  and  during  their  flight, 
the  common  people  subsist  almost  wholly  upon  them. 
Boston,  the  metropolis  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  in 
New  England,  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  flourish- 
ing towns  in  North  America.  It  is  situated  upon  a 
peninsula,  or  rather  an  island  joined  to  the  continent 
by  an  isthmus  or  narrow  neck  of  land  half  a  mile  in 
length,  at  the  bottom  of  a  spacious  and  noble  har- 
bour, defended  from  the  sea  by  a  number  of  small 
islands.  The  length  of  it  is  nearly  two  miles,  and 
the  breadth  of  it  half  a  one;  and  it  is  supposed  to 
contain  3,000  houses,  and  18  or  20,000  inhabitants. 


Boston 

At  the  entrance  of  the  harbour  stands  a  very  good 
light-house;  and  upon  an  island,  about  a  league 
from  the  town,  a  considerable  castle,  mounting  near 
150  cannon:  there  are  several  good  batteries  about 
it,  and  one  in  particular  very  strong,  built  by  Mr. 
Shirley.*  There  are  also  two  batteries  in  the  town, 
for  1 6  or  20  guns  each;  but  they  are  not,  I  believe, 
of  any  force.  The  buildings  in  Boston  are  in  gen- 
eral good;  the  streets  are  open  and  spacious,  and 
well  paved;  and  the  whole  has  much  the  air  of  some 
of  our  best  country  towns  in  England.  The  country 
round  about  it  is  exceedingly  delightful;  and  from 
a  hill,  which  stands  close  to  the  town,  where  there 
is  a  beacon  to  alarm  the  neighbourhood  in  case  of 
any  surprise,  is  one  of  the  finest  prospects,  the  most 
beautifully  variegated,  and  richly  grouped,  of  any 
without  exception  that  I  have  ever  seen. 

The  chief  public  buildings  are,  three  churches; 
thirteen  or  fourteen  meeting-houses;  the  governor's 
palace;  the  court-house,  or  exchange;  Faneuil  Hall; 
a  linen  manufacturing-house;  a  work-house;  a  bride- 
well; a  public  granary;  and  a  very  fine  wharf,  at 
least  half  a  mile  long,  undertaken  at  the  expense  of  a 
number  of  private  gentlemen,  for  the  advantage  of 
unloading  and  loading  vessels.  Most  of  these  build- 
ings are  handsome:  the  church,  called  King's  Chapel, 
is  exceedingly  elegant;  and  fitted  up  in  the  Corin- 
thian taste.  There  is  also  an  elegant  private  con- 

*  See  Note  XIX. 

[133] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

cert-room  highly  finished  in  the  Ionic  manner.  I 
had  reason  to  think  the  situation  of  Boston  un- 
healthy, at  least  in  this  season  of  the  year,  as  there 
were  frequent  funerals  every  night  during  my  stay 
there. 

The  situation  of  the  province  of  Massachusetts 
Bay,  including  the  district  of  Plymouth,*  is  between 
the  4ist  and  43d  degree  of  north  latitude,  and  about 
72  degrees  west  longitude.  The  climate,  soil, 
natural  produce,  and  improved  state  of  it,  are  much 
the  same  as  of  Rhode  Island.  It  is  divided  into 
counties,  and  townships  ;f  and  each  township,  if  it 
contains  forty  freeholders,  \  has  a  right  to  send  a 
member  to  the  assembly;1^  the  present  number  of 

*  Sagadahoc  and  the  Maine,  very  large  territories,  lying  north 
of  New  Hampshire,  belong  also  to  the  province  of  Massachusetts 
Bay;  they  were  annexed  to  it  by  the  new  charter  of  1691.  The 
Maine  forms  one  county  called  the  county  of  York,  and  sends  three 
members  to  the  council;  Sagadahoc,  which  is  annexed  to  it,  sends 
one. 

f  Townships  are  generally  six  miles  square,  and  divided  into 
sixty-three  equal  lots,  viz.  one  lot  for  the  first  settled  minister  as 
inheritance,  one  lot  for  the  ministry  or  glebe-lands,  one  lot  for  the 
benefit  of  a  school;  the  other  sixty  lots  to  sixty  persons  or  families, 
who,  within  five  years  from  the  grant,  are  to  erect  a  dwelling-house, 
and  clear  seven  acres  of  land,  fit  for  mowing  or  ploughing,  etc. 

}  By  the  charter,  every  freeholder  should  possess  40  s.  freehold, 
or  50  1.  personal  estate;  but  I  believe  this  article  has  not  been 
strictly  adhered  to. 

U  Every  town,  containing  forty  freeholders,  has  a  "right"  to 
send  a  member  to  the  assembly,  but  is  not  absolutely  "obliged" 
to  do  so,  unless  it  contains  eighty  freeholders. 

[134] 


Massachusetts   Bay 

representatives  amounts  to  between   130  and   140, 
of  which  Boston  sends  four. 

The  number  of  souls  in  this  province  is  supposed 
to  amount  to  200,000;  and  40,000  of  them  to  be  ca- 
pable of  bearing  arms.  They  carry  on  a  consider- 
able traffic,  chiefly  in  the  manner  of  the  Rhode 
Islanders;  but  have  some  material  articles  for  ex- 
portation, which  the  Rhode  Islanders  have  not,  ex- 
cept in  a  very  trifling  degree:  these  are  salt  fish,  and 
vessels.  Of  the  latter  they  build  annually  a  great 
number,  and  send  them,  laden  with  cargoes  of  the 
former,  to  Great  Britain,  where  they  sell  them. 
They  clear  out  from  Boston,  Salem,  Marblehead, 
and  the  different  ports  in  this  province,  yearly,  about 
ton  of  shipping.  Exclusive  of  these  articles, 
their  manufactures  are  not  large;  those  of  spirits,  fish- 
oil,  and  iron,  are,  I  believe,  the  most  considerable. 
They  fabricate  beaver-hats,  which  they  sell  for  a 
moidore  apiece ;  and  some  years  ago  they  erected  a 
manufactory,  with  a  design  to  encourage  the  Irish 
settlers  to  make  linens;  but  at  the  breaking  out  of 
the  war  the  price  of  labour  was  enhanced  so  much, 
that  it  was  impossible  to  carry  it  on.  Like  the  rest 
of  the  colonies  they  also  endeavour  to  make  woollens; 
but  they  have  not  yet  been  able  to  bring  them  to  any 
degree  of  perfection;  indeed  it  is  an  article  in  which 
I  think  they  will  not  easily  succeed;  for  the  American 
wool  is  not  only  coarse,  but  in  comparison  of  the 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  2. 

[135] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

English,  exceedingly  short.  Upon  the  best  inquiry 
I  could  make,  I  was  not  able  to  discover  that  any 
one  had  ever  seen  a  staple  of  American  wool  longer 
than  seven  inches;  whereas  in  the  counties  of  Lin- 
coln and  Leicester,  they  are  frequently  twenty-two* 
inches  long.  In  the  southern  colonies,  at  least  in 
those  parts  where  I  travelled,  there  is  scarcely  any 
herbage  ;f  and  whether  it  is  owing  to  this,  or  to  the 
excessive  heats,  I  am  ignorant,  the  wool  is  short  and 
hairy.  The  northern  colonies  have  indeed  greater 
plenty  of  herbage,  but  are  for  some  months  covered 
with  snow;  and  without  a  degree  of  attention  and 
care  in  housing  the  sheep,  and  guarding  them  against 
accidents,  and  wild  beasts,  which  would  not  easily 
be  compensated,  it  would  be  very  difficult  to  in- 
crease their  numbers  to  any  great  amount.  The 
Americans  seem  conscious  of  this  fact,  and,  not- 
withstanding a  very  severe  prohibition,  contrive  to 
procure  from  England  every  year  a  considerable 
number  of  rams,  in  order  to  improve  and  multiply 
the  breed.  What  the  lands  beyond  the  Allegheny 
and  upon  the  banks  of  the  Ohio  may  be,  I  do  not 
know;  they  are  said  to  be  very  rich:  but  the  climate 
I  believe  is  not  less  severe;  and  I  think,  upon  col- 
lating different  accounts,  that  the  severity  of  heat 
and  cold  is  not  much  abated  by  cultivation.  The 

*  The  common  average  length,  I  am  told,  is  about  sixteen  inches. 

f  I  speak  of  the  country  in  general;  in  particular  spots,  as  at 
Greenway  Court,  the  herbage  is  very  fine  and  luxuriant. 


Massachusetts  Bay 

air  becomes  dryer  and  more  wholesome,  in  propor- 
tion as  the  woods  are  cut  down,  and  the  ground  is 
cleared  and  cultivated;  but  the  cold  is  not  less  pierc- 
ing, nor  the  snow  less  frequent.  I  think  therefore 
upon  the  whole,  that  America,  though  it  may  with 
particular  care  and  attention,  produce  small  quan- 
tities of  tolerably  good  wool,  will  yet  never  be  able 
to  produce  it  in  such  plenty  and  of  such  a  quality 
as  to  serve  for  the  necessary  consumption  of  its 
inhabitants. 

The  government  of  this  province  is  lodged  in  the 
hands  of  a  governor  or  lieutenant-governor,  ap- 
pointed by  the  king;  a  council  of  twenty-eight  per- 
sons, chosen  annually,  with  the  governor's  appro- 
bation, by  the  general  assembly;*  and  a  house  of 
representatives  f  annually  elected  by  the  freeholders. 
The  governor  commissions  all  the  militia,  and  other 
military  officers;  and,  with  consent  of  the  council, 
also  nominates  and  appoints  all  civil  officers,  except 
those  that  are  concerned  in  the  revenue.  He  calls 
and  adjourns  the  assembly,  and  has  in  every  respect  a 
very  extensive  authority.  His  salary,  with  per- 

*  They  are  chosen  by  the  new  representatives,  and  the  last  year's 
counsellor;  so  that  each  counsellor  has  a  vote  in  his  own  re-election. 
The  governor  has  a  negative  to  every  counsellor's  election,  with- 
out being  obliged  to  assign  a  reason. 

f  Each  representative  must  be  resident  in  the  township  for  which 
he  is  elected;  he  must  also  have  a  plurality  of  votes  respecting  the 
number  of  voters,  and  not  in  comparison  only  of  the  other  candi- 
dates; he  is  paid  for  his  attendance  and  services,  and  subject  to  a 
fine  if  he  neglects  them. 


Travels    Through   North   America 

quisites,  amounts  to  about  1,300  1.  sterling  per  year. 
The  governor  and  council  together  have  the  probate 
of  wills,  and  the  power  of  granting  administrations 
and  divorces. 

There  are  several  courts  of  judicature.  All  actions 
under  twenty  shillings  sterling  are  cognizable  by  a 
justice  of  peace,  from  whose  determination  there  lies 
an  appeal  to  the  inferior  county  court  of  common- 
pleas;  and  from  hence  to  the  superior  provincial 
court  in  its  circuits,  which  is  also  a  court  of  oyer  and 
terminer  in  criminal  affairs,  and  is  held  by  a  chief 
justice  and  some  assistant  judges.  In  this  court,  if 
the  determination  is  not  satisfactory,  a  rehearing  of 
the  cause  may  be  had  with  a  different  jury;*  and 
even,  by  petition  to  the  general  assembly,  a  second 
rehearing:  the  dernier  resort  is  to  his  majesty  in 
council,  but  this  only  in  cases  of  300  1.  sterling  value: 
and  the  appeal  must  be  made  within  fourteen  days 
after  judgment. 

The  established  religion  here,  as  in  all  the  other 
provinces  of  New  England,  is  that  of  the  Congre- 
gationalists;  a  religion,  different  in  some  trifling 
articles,  though  none  very  material,  from  the  Pres- 
byterian. There  are,  besides  these  however,  great 
numbers  of  people  of  different  persuasions,  particu- 
larly of  the  religion  of  the  Church  of  England,  which 
seems  to  gain  ground,  and  to  become  more  fashion- 

*  Juries  are,  I  believe,  appointed  partly  by  lot,  and  partly  by 
rotation. 


Massachusetts  Bay 

able  every  day.  A  church  has  been  lately  erected 
at  Cambridge,  within  sight  of  the  college;  which  has 
greatly  alarmed  the  Congregationalists,  who  con- 
sider it  as  the  most  fatal  stroke  that  could  possibly 
have  been  levelled  at  their  religion.  The  building 
is  elegant,  and  the  minister  of  it  (the  Reverend  Mr. 
Apthorpe,)  is  a  young  man  of  shining  parts,  great 
learning,  and  pure  and  engaging  manners.* 

Arts  and  Sciences  seem  to  have  made  a  greater 
progress  here,  than  in  any  other  part  of  America. 
Harvard  College  has  been  founded  above  a  hundred 
years;  and  although  it  is  not  upon  a  perfect  plan, 
yet  it  has  produced  a  very  good  effect.  The  arts  are 
undeniably  forwarder  in  Massachusetts  Bay  than 
either  in  Pennsylvania  or  New  York.  The  public 
buildings  are  more  elegant;  and  there  is  a  more  gen- 
eral turn  for  music,  painting,  and  the  belles  lettres. 

The  character  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  province 
is  much  improved,  in  comparison  of  what  it  was: 
but  Puritanism  and  a  spirit  of  persecution  is  not  yet 
totally  extinguished.  The  gentry  of  both  sexes  are 
hospitable,  and  good-natured;  there  is  an  air  of 
civility  in  their  behaviour,  but  it  is  constrained  by 
formality  and  preciseness.  Even  the  women,  though 
easiness  of  carriage  is  peculiarly  characteristic  of 

*  This  gentleman,  I  have  heard,  afterward  met  with  so  much 
opposition  and  persecution  from  the  Congregationalists,  that  he 
was  obliged  to  resign  his  cure,  to  quit  the  colony,  and  has  since 
lived  in  England  upon  a  living,  (I  believe  in  Surrey)  which  was 
given  him  by  the  late  Archbishop  Seeker. 


Travels    Through   North   America 

their  nature,  appear  here  with  more  stiffness  and 
reserve  than  in  the  other  colonies.  They  are  formed 
with  symmetry,  are  handsome,  and  have  fair  and 
delicate  complections;  but  are  said  universally,  and 
even  proverbially,  to  have  very  indifferent  teeth. 

The  lower  class  of  the  people  are  more  in  the  ex- 
treme of  this  character;  and,  which  is  constantly 
mentioned  as  singularly  peculiar  to  them,  are  im- 
pertinently curious  and  inquisitive.  I  was  told  of  a 
gentleman  of  Philadelphia,  who,  in  travelling  through 
the  provinces  of  New  England,  having  met  with 
many  impertinences  from  this  extraordinary  turn 
of  character,  at  length  fell  upon  an  expedient  almost 
as  extraordinary,  to  get  rid  of  them.  He  had  ob- 
served, when  he  went  into  an  ordinary,*  that  every 
individual  of  the  family  had  a  question  or  two  to 
propose  to  him  relative  to  his  history;  and  that,  till 
each  was  satisfied,  and  they  had  conferred  and  com- 
pared together  their  information,  there  was  no  pos- 
sibility of  procuring  any  refreshment.  He,  there- 
fore, the  moment  he  went  into  any  of  these  places, 
inquired  for  the  master,  the  mistress,  the  sons,  the 
daughters,  the  men-servants  and  the  maid-servants; 
and  having  assembled  them  all  together,  he  began 
in  this  manner:  "Worthy  people,  I  am  B.  F.f  of 
"Philadelphia,  by  trade  a  -  — ,  and  a  bachelor; 
"I  have  some  relations  at  Boston,  to  whom  I  am 

*  Inns  are  so  called  in  America. 

f  Benjamin  Franklin. 

[140] 


Massachusetts  Bay 

"going  to  make  a  visit:  my  stay  will  be  short,  and 
"I  shall  then  return  and  follow  my  business,  as  a 
"prudent  man  ought  to  do.  This  is  all  I  know  of 
"myself,  and  all  I  can  possibly  inform  you  of;  I  beg 
"therefore  that  you  will  have  pity  upon  me  and  my 
"horse,  and  give  us  both  some  refreshment." 

Singular  situations  and  manners  will  be  produc- 
tive of  singular  customs;  but  frequently  such  as  upon 
slight  examination  may  appear  to  be  the  effects  of 
mere  grossness  of  character,  will,  upon  deeper  re- 
search, be  found  to  proceed  from  simplicity  and  in- 
nocence. A  very  extraordinary  method  of  court- 
ship, which  is  sometimes  practised  amongst  the  lower 
people  of  this  province,  and  is  called  Tarrying,  has 
given  occasion  to  this  reflection.*  When  a  man  is 
enamoured  of  a  young  woman,  and  wishes  to  marry 
her,  he  proposes  the  affair  to  her  parents,  (without 
whose  consent  no  marriage  in  this  colony  can  take 
place);  if  they  have  no  objection,  they  allow  him  to 
tarry  with  her  one  night,  in  order  to  make  his  court 
to  her.  At  their  usual  time  the  old  couple  retire  to 
bed,  leaving  the  young  ones  to  settle  matters  as  they 
can,  who,  after  having  sat  up  as  long  as  they  think 
proper,  get  into  bed  together  also,  but  without  pull- 
ing off  their  under-garments,  in  order  to  prevent 
scandal.  If  the  parties  agree,  it  is  all  very  well;  the 
banns  are  published,  and  they  are  married  without 
delay.  If  not,  they  part,  and  possibly  never  see 

*  See  Note  XX. 

[Hi] 


Travels    Through   North   ^America 

each  other  again;  unless,  which  is  an  accident  that 
seldom  happens,  the  forsaken  fair-one  prove  preg- 
nant, and  then  the  man  is  obliged  to  marry  her,  under 
pain  of  excommunication.* 

The  province  of  Massachusetts  Bay  has  been  for 
some  years  past,  I  believe,  rather  on  the  decline. 
Its  inhabitants  have  lost  several  branches  of  trade, 
which  they  are  not  likely  to  recover  again.  They 
formerly  supplied,  not  only  Connecticut,  but  other 
parts  of  the  continent,  with  dry  goods,  and  received 
specie  in  return:  but  since  the  introduction  of  paper 
currency  they  have  been  deprived  of  great  part  of 
this  commerce.  Their  ship  trade  is  considerably 
decreased,  owing  to  their  not  having  been  so  careful 
in  the  construction  of  vessels  as  formerly:  their 

*  A  gentleman  some  time  ago  travelling  upon  the  frontiers  of 
Virginia,  where  there  are  few  settlements,  was  obliged  to  take  up 
his  quarters  one  evening  at  a  miserable  plantation;  where,  ex- 
clusive of  a  negro  or  two,  the  family  consisted  of  a  man  and  his 
wife,  and  one  daughter  about  sixteen  years  of  age.  Being  fatigued, 
he  presently  desired  them  to  shew  him  where  he  was  to  sleep; 
accordingly  they  pointed  to  a  bed  in  a  corner  of  the  room  where 
they  were  sitting.  The  gentleman  was  a  little  embarrassed  but, 
being  excessively  weary,  he  retired,  half  undressed  himself,  and 
got  into  bed.  After  some  time  the  old  gentlewoman  came  to  bed 
to  him,  after  her  the  old  gentleman,  and  last  of  all  the  young  lady. 
This,  in  a  country  excluded  from  all  civilized  society,  could  only 
proceed  from  simplicity  and  innocence:  and  indeed  it  is  a  general 
and  true  observation  that  forms  and  observances  become  necessary 
and  are  attended  to,  in  proportion  as  manners  become  corrupt, 
and  it  is  found  expedient  to  guard  against  vice,  and  that  design 
and  duplicity  of  character,  which,  from  the  nature  of  things,  will 
ever  prevail  in  large  and  cultivated  societies. 

[142] 


Massachusetts  Bay 

fisheries  too  have  not  been  equally  successful:  they 
have  had  also  a  considerable  number  of  provincial 
troops*  in  pay  during  the  course  of  the  present  war, 
and  have  been  burthened  with  heavy  taxes.  These 
have  been  laid  upon  estates,  real  and  personal. 
Some  merchants  in  Boston,  I  have  been  credibly 
informed,  have  paid  near  400  1.  sterling  annually. 
Assessments  are  made  by  particular  officers,  who, 
with  the  selectmen,  constables,  overseers,  and  sev- 
eral others,  are  elected  annually  by  the  freemen, 
for  the  direction  and  management  of  each  particular 
township. 

There  is  less  paper  money  in  this  colony,  than  in 
any  other  of  America:  the  current  coin  is  chiefly  gold 
and  silver:  and  Boston  is  the  only  place,  I  believe, 
where  there  ever  was  a  mint  to  coin  money. 

I  was  told  of  a  very  impolitic  law  in  force  in  this 
province,  which  forbids  any  master,  or  commander 
of  a  vessel,  to  bring  strangers  into  the  colony,  with- 
out giving  security  that  they  shall  not  become  charge- 
able to  it. 

However,  notwithstanding  what  has  been  said, 
Massachusetts  Bay  is  a  rich,  populous,  and  well-cul- 
tivated province. 

I  cannot  take  leave  of  it  without  relating  a  very 
extraordinary  story,  communicated  to  me  by  persons 
of  undoubted  credit,  as  it  further  tends  to  illustrate 
the  character  and  manners  of  its  inhabitants. 

*  Between  six  and  seven  thousand,  I  believe. 


Travels    Through   North   America 

Some  years  ago  a  commander  of  one  of  his 
majesty's  ships  of  war  being  stationed  at  this  place, 
had  orders  to  cruise  from  time  to  time,  in  order  to 
protect  our  trade,  and  distress  the  enemy.  It  hap- 
pened unluckily  that  he  returned  from  one  of  his 
cruises  on  a  Sunday;  and  as  he  had  left  his  lady  at 
Boston,  the  moment  she  heard  of  the  ship's  arrival, 
she  hasted  down  to  the  water's  side,  in  order  to  re- 
ceive him.  The  captain,  on  landing,  embraced  her 
with  tenderness  and  affection:  this,  as  there  were 
several  spectators  by,  gave  great  offence,  and  was 
considered  as  an  act  of  indecency,  and  a  flagrant 
profanation  of  the  Sabbath.  The  next  day,  there- 
fore, he  was  summoned  before  the  magistrates,  who 
with  many  severe  rebukes  and  pious  exhortations, 
ordered  him  to  be  publicly  whipped.  The  captain 
stifled  his  indignation  and  resentment  as  much  as 
possible;  and  as  the  punishment,  from  the  frequency 
of  it,  was  not  attended  with  any  great  degree  of 
ignominy  or  disgrace,  he  mixed  with  the  best  com- 
pany, was  well  received  by  them,  and  they  were  ap- 
parently good  friends.  At  length  the  time  of  the 
station  expired,  and  he  was  recalled :  he  went,  there- 
fore, with  seeming  concern,  to  take  leave  of  his 
worthy  friends;  and  that  they  might  spend  one  more 
happy  day  together  before  their  final  separation, 
he  invited  the  principal  magistrates  and  selectmen 
to  dine  with  him  on  board  his  ship,  upon  the  day  of 
his  departure.  They  accepted  the  invitation,  and 

[i44] 


Massachusetts  Bay 

nothing  could  be  more  joyous  and  convivial  than  the 
entertainment  which  he  gave  them.  At  length  the 
fatal  moment  arrived  that  was  to  separate  them: 
the  anchor  was  apeak,  the  sails  were  unfurled,  and 
nothing  was  wanting  but  the  signal  to  get  under  way.* 
The  captain,  after  taking  an  affectionate  leave  of  his 
worthy  friends,  accompanied  them  upon  deck,  where 
the  boatswain  and  crew  were  in  readiness  to  receive 
them.  He  there  thanked  them  afresh  for  the  civili- 
ties they  had  shown  him,  of  which,  he  said,  he  should 
retain  an  eternal  remembrance,  and  to  which  he 
wished  it  had  been  in  his  power  to  have  made  a  more 
adequate  return.  One  point  of  civility  only  re- 
mained to  be  adjusted  between  them,  which,  as  it 
was  in  his  power,  so  he  meant  most  fully  to  recom- 
pense to  them.  He  then  reminded  them  of  what 
had  passed,  and  ordering  the  crew  to  pinion  them, 
had  them  brought  one  by  one  to  the  gang-way,  where 
the  boatswain  stripped  off  their  shirts,  and  with  a 
cat  of  nine  tails  laid  on  the  back  of  each  forty  stripes 
save  one.  They  were  then,  amidst  the  shouts  and 
acclamations  of  the  crew,  shoved  into  their  boats: 
and  the  captain  immediately  getting  under  way, 
sailed  for  England.f 

*  This  is  usually  written,  "under  weigh":  but  I  am  extremely 
doubtful  of  the  propriety  of  the  phrase. 

f  This  story  has  lately  appeared  in  one  of  the  English  news- 
papers, told  with  much  humour,  and  with  some  difference  respect- 
ing the  occasion  and  mode  of  the  captain's  punishment.  The 

[145] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

The  1 2th  of  October  I  embarked  on  board  his 
majesty's  ship  the  Winchester,  of  fifty  guns,  Captain 
Hale  commander,  for  the  river  Piscataqua,  in  New 
Hampshire;  and  we  came  to  an  anchor  there  the 
next  day,  after  a  pleasant  passage. 

The  capital  of  this  province  is  Portsmouth,  which 
is  situated  upon  the  river:  it  is  an  inconsiderable 
place,  and  chiefly  built  of  wood.  Very  little  can  be 
said  of  the  province  of  New  Hampshire,  materially 
different  from  what  has  been  said  of  Massachusets 
Bay.  The  climate,  produce,  trade,  government,  re- 
ligion, and  manners  of  it  are  much  the  same. 
There  are  supposed  to  be  about  40,000  inhabitants, 
8,000  militia,  and  6  or  700  provincial  troops.  There 
are  only  two  missionaries  of  the  Church  of  England, 
and  one  of  these  has  lately  applied  to  be  removed  to 
Rhode  Island.  The  chief  articles  for  exportation 
are  fish,  cattle,  ships,  of  which  they  annually  build 
near  200*,  and  masts  for  the  royal  navy.  These  are 
made  of  the  white  pine,  and  are,  I  believe,  the  finest 
in  the  world,  many  of  them  being  forty  yards  long, 
and  as  many  inches  in  diameter.  They  never  cut 
them  down  but  in  times  of  deep  snow,  as  it  would  be 
impossible  in  any  other  season  to  get  them  down  to 
the  river.  When  the  trees  are  fallen,  they  yoke 

author  cannot  take  upon  himself  to  say  which  account  may  be 
most  exact,  but  he  has  chosen  to  abide  by  that  which  he  heard  at 
Boston.     They  either  of  them  serve  to  characterize  the  people, 
and  to  answer  the  author's  purpose  in  relating  it. 
*  See  Appendix,  No.  2. 

[146] 


New   Hampshire 

seventy  or  eighty  pair  of  oxen,  and  drag  them  along 
the  snow.  It  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  put  them 
first  into  motion,  which  they  call  raising  them;  and 
when  they  have  once  effected  this,  they  never  stop 
upon  any  account  whatsoever  till  they  arrive  at  the 
water's  side.  Frequently  some  of  the  oxen  are  taken 
ill,  upon  which  they  immediately  cut  them  out  of  the 
gears;  and  are  sometimes  obliged,  I  was  told,  to  de- 
stroy five  or  six  pair  of  them.  The  forests,  where 
these  masts  grow,  are  reserved  to  the  crown,  which 
appoints  a  surveyor  of  them,  who  is  commonly  the 
governor  of  this  province.  This  is  not  the  only  ex- 
pedient employed  by  government  for  the  preserva- 
tion of  such  trees  as  may  be  of  use  for  the  royal  navy; 
for  there  is  an  act  of  parliament,  I  believe,  which 
prohibits,  under  pain  of  certain  fines  and  penalties, 
the  cutting  down,  or  destroying  of  any  white  pine- 
tree,  of  specified  dimensions,  not  growing  within  the 
boundaries  of  any  township,  without  his  majesty's 
license,  in  any  of  the  provinces  of  New  England, 
New  York,  or  New  Jersey:  a  restriction  absolutely 
necessary,  whether  considered  as  securing  a  pro- 
vision for  the  navy,  or  as  a  check  upon  that  very 
destructive  practice,  taken  from  the  Indians,  of  fire- 
hunting.  It  used  to  be  the  custom  for  large  com- 
panies to  go  into  the  woods  in  the  winter,  and  to  set 
fire  to  the  brush  and  underwood,  in  a  circle  of  several 
miles.  This  circle  gradually  contracting  itself,  the 
deer,  and  other  wild  animals,  enclosed,  naturally 

[H7] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

retired  from  the  flames,  till  at  length  they  got  herded 
together  in  a  very  small  compass.  Then,  blinded 
and  suffocated  by  the  smoke,  and  scorched  by  the 
fire,  which  every  moment  came  nearer  to  them,  they 
forced  their  way,  under  the  greatest  trepidation  and 
dismay,  through  flames;  and  were  no  sooner  got 
into  the  open  daylight  again,  than  they  were  shot 
by  the  hunters,  who  stood  without,  and  were  in  readi- 
ness to  fire  upon  them.  The  trees  included  within 
the  circle,  although  not  absolutely  burnt  down,  were 
so  dried  and  injured,  that  they  never  vegetated  any 
more:  and  as  the  fire  did  not  only  contract  itself  in- 
wardly, but  dilated  also  outwardly,  and  sometimes 
continued  burning  for  several  weeks,  till  rain,  or 
some  accidental  circumstance  put  it  out;  it  is  in- 
credible what  injury  and  devastation  it  occasioned  in 
the  woods.  I  was  once  a  spectator  of  a  similar  fire  in 
Virginia,  which  had  happened  through  accident. 
Nothing  could  be  more  awful  and  tremendous  than 
the  sight.  It  was  of  great  extent,  and  burned  several 
weeks  before  the  inhabitants  could  subdue  it.  They 
effected  it  at  last  by  cutting  away  the  underwood,  in 
wide  and  long  avenues,  to  leeward  of  the  fire,  by 
which  it  was  deprived  of  the  means  of  communicat- 
ing or  spreading  any  farther.  In  Virginia  (and,  I 
believe,  the  other  colonies),  there  is  an  express  act 
of  assembly,  passed  in  the  I2th  year  of  his  late 
majesty,  to  forbid  this  practice. 

The  province  of  New  Hampshire,  I  was  informed 
[148] 


General  Reflections 

at  Portsmouth,  has  grown  rich  during  the  war,  by 
the  loss  of  its  own  vessels,  they  having  been  com- 
monly insured  above  value. 

The  currency  here  is  extremely  bad,  not  better 
than  that  in  Rhode  Island. 

Having  travelled  over  so  large  a  tract  of  this  vast 
continent,  before  I  bid  a  final  farewell  to  it,  I  must 
beg  the  reader's  indulgence,  while  I  stop  for  a 
moment,  and  as  it  were  from  the  top  of  a  high  emi- 
nence, take  one  general  retrospective  look  at  the 
whole.  An  idea,  strange  as  it  is  visionary,  has 
entered  into  the  minds  of  the  generality  of  mankind, 
that  empire  is  travelling  westward;  and  every  one  is 
looking  forward  with  eager  and  impatient  expecta- 
tion to  that  destined  moment  when  America  is  to 
give  law  to  the  rest  of  the  world.  But  if  ever  an  idea 
was  illusory  and  fallacious,  I  am  fully  persuaded, 
that  this  will  be  so. 

America  is  formed  for  happiness,  but  not  for  em- 
pire: in  a  course  of  1,200  miles  I  did  not  see  a  single 
object  that  solicited  charity;  but  I  saw  insuperable 
causes  of  weakness,  which  will  necessarily  prevent 
its  being  a  potent  state. 

Our  colonies  may  be  distinguished  into  the  south- 
ern and  northern,  separated  from  each  other  by  the 
Susquehanna  and  that  imaginary  line  which  divides 
Maryland  from  Pennsylvania. 

The  southern  colonies  have  so  many  inherent 
[149] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

causes  of  weakness,  that  they  never  can  possess  any 
real  strength.  The  climate  operates  very  power- 
fully upon  them,  and  renders  them  indolent,  in- 
active, and  unenterprising;  this  is  visible  in  every 
line  of  their  character.  I  myself  have  been  a  spec- 
tator, and  it  is  not  an  uncommon  sight,  of  a  man  in 
the  vigour  of  life,  lying  upon  a  couch,  and  a  female 
slave  standing  over  him,  wafting  off  the  flies,  and 
fanning  him,  while  he  took  his  repose. 

The  southern  colonies  (Maryland,  which  is  the 
smallest  and  most  inconsiderable,  alone  excepted) 
will  never  be  thickly  seated :  for  as  they  are  not  con- 
fined within  determinate  limits,  but  extend  to  the 
westward  indefinitely,  men,  sooner  than  apply  to 
laborious  occupations,  occupations  militating  with 
their  dispositions,  and  generally  considered  too  as 
the  inheritance  and  badge  of  slavery,  will  gradually 
retire  westward,  and  settle  upon  fresh  lands,  which 
are  said  also  to  be  more  fertile;  where,  by  the  ser- 
vitude of  a  negro  or  two,  they  may  enjoy  all  the 
satisfaction  of  an  easy  and  indolent  independency: 
hence  the  lands  upon  the  coast  will  of  course  remain 
thin  of  inhabitants. 

The  mode  of  cultivation  by  slavery,  is  another  in- 
surmountable cause  of  weakness.  The  number  of 
negroes  in  the  southern  colonies  is  upon  the  whole 
nearly  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  that  of  the  white  men; 
and  they  propagate  and  increase  even  faster.  Their 
condition  is  truly  pitiable;  their  labour  excessively 

[150] 


General  Reflections 

hard,  their  diet  poor  and  scanty,  their  treatment  cruel 
and  oppresive:  they  cannot  therefore  but  be  a  sub- 
ject of  terror  to  those  who  so  inhumanly  tyrannize 
over  them. 

The  Indians  near  the  frontiers  are  a  still  further 
formidable  cause  of  subjection.  The  southern  In- 
dians are  numerous,  and  are  governed  by  a  sounder 
policy  than  formerly:  experience  has  taught  them 
wisdom.  They  never  make  war  with  the  colonists 
without  carrying  terror  and  devastation  along  with 
them.  They  sometimes  break  up  entire  counties 
together.  Such  is  the  state  of  the  southern  colonies. 

The  northern  colonies  are  of  stronger  stamina, 
but  they  have  other  difficulties  and  disadvantages  to 
struggle  with,  not  less  arduous,  or  more  easy  to  be 
surmounted,  than  what  have  been  already  mentioned. 
Their  limits  being  defined,  they  will  undoubtedly 
become  exceedingly  populous:  for  though  men  will 
readily  retire  back  towards  the  frontiers  of  their  own 
colony,  yet  they  will  not  so  easily  be  induced  to  settle 
beyond  them,  where  different  laws  and  polities  pre- 
vail; and  where,  in  short,  they  are  a  different  people: 
but  in  proportion  to  want  of  territory,  if  we  consider 
the  proposition  in  a  general  and  abstract  light,  will 
be  want  of  power.  But  the  northern  colonies  have 
still  more  positive  and  real  disadvantages  to  contend 
with.  They  are  composed  of  people  of  different 
nations,  different  manners,  different  religions,  and 
different  languages.  They  have  a  mutual  jealousy 

[151] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

of  each  other,  fomented  by  considerations  of  interest, 
power,  and  ascendancy.  Religious  zeal,  too,  like  a 
smothered  fire,  is  secretly  burning  in  the  hearts  of  the 
different  sectaries  that  inhabit  them,  and  were  it  not 
restrained  by  laws  and  superior  authority,  would 
soon  burst  out  into  a  flame  of  universal  persecution. 
Even  the  peaceable  Quakers  struggle  hard  for  pre- 
eminence, and  evince  in  a  very  striking  manner  that 
the  passions  of  mankind  are  much  stronger  than  any 
principles  of  religion. 

The  colonies,  therefore,  separately  considered,  are 
internally  weak;  but  it  may  be  supposed,  that,  by  an 
union  or  coalition,  they  would  become  strong  and 
formidable:  but  an  union  seems  almost  impossible: 
one  founded  in  dominion  or  power  is  morally  so:  for, 
were  not  England  to  interfere,  the  colonies  them- 
selves so  well  understand  the  policy  of  preserving 
a  balance,  that,  I  think,  they  would  not  be  idle  spec- 
tators, were  any  one  of  them  to  endeavour  to  sub- 
jugate its  next  neighbour.  Indeed,  it  appears  to  me 
a  very  doubtful  point,  even  supposing  all  the  colonies 
of  America  to  be  united  under  one  head,  whether  it 
would  be  possible  to  keep  in  due  order  and  govern- 
ment so  wide  and  extended  an  empire,  the  difficulties 
of  communication,  of  intercourse,  of  correspondence, 
and  all  other  circumstances  considered. 

A  voluntary  association  or  coalition,  at  least  a 
permanent  one,  is  almost  as  difficult  to  be  supposed: 
for  fire  and  water  are  not  more  heterogeneous  than 


General  Reflections 

the  different  colonies  in  North  America.  Nothing 
can  exceed  the  jealousy  and  emulation  which  they 
possess  in  regard  to  each  other.  The  inhabitants  of 
Pennsylvania  and  New  York  have  an  inexhaustible 
source  of  animosity,  in  their  jealousy  for  the  trade 
of  the  Jerseys.  Massachusetts  Bay  and  Rhode 
Island,  are  not  less  interested  in  that  of  Connecticut. 
The  West  Indies  are  a  common  subject  of  emulation 
to  them  all.  Even  the  limits  and  boundaries  of  each 
colony  are  a  constant  source  of  litigation.  In  short, 
such  is  the  difference  of  character,  of  manners,  of 
religion,  of  interest,  of  the  different  colonies,  that  I 
think,  if  I  am  not  wholly  ignorant  of  the  human 
mind,  were  they  left  to  themselves,  there  would  soon 
be  a  civil  war  from  one  end  of  the  continent  to  the 
other;  while  the  Indians  and  negroes  would,  with 
better  reason,  impatiently  watch  the  opportunity  of 
exterminating  them  all  together. 

After  all,  however,  supposing  what  I  firmly  believe 
will  never  take  place,  a  permanent  union  or  alliance 
of  all  the  colonies,  yet  it  could  not  be  effectual,  or 
productive  of  the  event  supposed;  for  such  is  the  ex- 
tent of  coast  settled  by  the  American  colonies  that 
it  can  never  be  defended  but  by  a  maritime  power: 
America  must  first  be  mistress  of  the  sea  before  she 
can  be  independent,  or  mistress  of  herself.  Suppose 
the  colonies  ever  so  populous;  suppose  them  capable 
of  maintaining  100,000  men  constantly  in  arms,  (a 
supposition  in  the  highest  degree  extravagant),  yet 


'Travels    Through   North   America 

half  a  dozen  frigates  would  with  ease  ravage  and  lay 
waste  the  whole  country  from  end  to  end,  without  a 
possibility  of  their  being  able  to  prevent  it;  the  coun- 
try is  so  intersected  by  rivers,  rivers  of  such  magni- 
tude as  to  render  it  impossible  to  build  bridges  over 
them,  that  all  communication  is  in  a  manner  cut  off. 
An  army  under  such  circumstances  could  never  act 
to  any  purpose  or  effect;  its  operations  would  be 
totally  frustrated. 

Further,  a  great  part  of  the  opulence  and  power 
of  America  depends  upon  her  fisheries,  and  her  com- 
merce with  the  West  Indies;  she  cannot  subsist  with- 
out them;  but  these  would  be  entirely  at  the  mercy 
of  that  power  which  might  have  the  sovereignty  of 
the  seas.  I  conclude,  therefore,  that  England,  so 
long  as  she  maintains  her  superiority  in  that  respect, 
will  also  possess  a  superiority  in  America;  but  the 
moment  she  loses  the  empire  of  the  one,  she  will  be 
deprived  of  the  sovereignty  of  the  other:  for  were 
that  empire  to  be  held  by  France,  Holland,  or  any 
other  power,  America,  will,  in  all  probability,  be 
annexed  to  it.  New  establishments  formed  in  the 
interior  parts  of  America,  will  not  come  under  this 
predicament;  I  should  therefore  think  it  the  best 
policy  to  enlarge  the  present  colonies,  but  not  to 
establish  fresh  ones;  for  to  suppose  interior  colonies 
to  be  of  use  to  the  mother  country,  by  being  a  check 
upon  those  already  settled,  is  to  suppose  what  is  con- 
trary to  experience,  and  the  nature  of  things,  viz. 

[i54] 


General  Reflections 

that  men  removed  beyond  the  reach  of  power  will  be 
subordinate  to  it. 

October  20,  I  embarked  again  on  board  the  Win- 
chester, for  England;  and  arrived  in  Plymouth 
Sound  the  2ist  of  November,  after  a  rough  and 
tempestuous  voyage. 


APPENDIX,    N°    i. 

CATALOGUE  of  several  TREES,  PLANTS,  BIRDS, 
FISHES,  ANIMALS,  &c.  mentioned  in  the  course  of 
this  Work;  with  their  Common  Names,  and  the  names 
given  them  by  CATESBY  and  LINN^US. 


COMMON  NAMES.      CATESBEAN.  LINN^AN. 


Tobacco,  ........................................  Nicotiana. 

Maize  or  Indian      )  T-  T    j-  rj      *\K 

^  >  *  rumentum  Indicum,  ..........  Zea  Mays. 

Corn,  ........  ) 

'a-n  C  [•  Aristolochia  Pistolochia,  .  .  .  Polygala  Senega. 

Pigeon  Plumb         )  0  ,     .        r  .. 

r>  >•  Lerasus  latiore  toho. 

or  Berry,  .....  ) 

TJ.  (  Nux  iuglans  alba  Virgini-  )       T     , 

Hiccory,  ........    •<  J.  6.  6        >-.  .  Juglans  alba. 

(      ensis,  &c  .............  )      J   { 

Pignut,  ............  Nux  juglans  Carolinensis,  &c. 

Cypress-Tree,  ......  Cupressus  Americana,  .  .  Cupressus  disticha. 

Sugar  Maple,  .............................  Acer  Saccharinum. 

,,      w<      S        J  Acer  Virginianum,   &c  ......  Acer  Rubrum. 

Candle-Berry  (  Myrtus,  Brabanticae  simi-)  ,,     .      ^    .r 

Myrtle,  .    .....  \      lis  Carolinensis,  &c.  .  .  f  Mynca  Cerlfera' 

Virginian  Cedar,  . 


gmiana. 
Sassafras  Tree,  .....  Cornus  Mas  Odorata,  .  .  .Laurus  Sassafras, 

[157] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

COMMON  NAMES.      GATES  BEAN.  LINN^AN. 


,  ,-  TV/T     T7-     .  .  (  Cornus   Flor- 

Dogwood,    Cornus  Mas  Virgmiana,  &c.  •<  . , 

Pseudo-acacia  )    .  T>   u-   •     r>       j 

T  >  Acacia, Kobinia  rseudo-acacia. 

or  Locust-tree,.  ) 

Honey  Locust, Acacia, Gleditsia. 

Red-Bud,  or  Judas )  „...  /-«•/->       j       • 

r~  J  >  Sihquastrum, Cercis  Canadensis. 

Tree, ) 

^  .        r^  A      i       i  •     T7«     •  •         o       (    Chionanthus 

fringe- Iree, Amelanchior  Virgmiana,  &c.  •<         y.     .   . 

,_..,_                          A  t       T-  r   •/•  f   Liriodendron 

Tulip-Tree, Arbor  Tulipifera,  &c |       Tulipifera. 

TT    ,     „    rr  (  Magnolia    amplissimo    flore  (         Magnolia 

Umbrella-Tree,.  . .  •{        ?,        0 

(      albo,  &c (          tnpetala. 

Sweet     Flowering  ^ 

Bay,  or  Swamp    >  Magnolia  lauri  folio,  &c. .  .  Magnolia  Glauca. 
Laurel } 

Trumpet  Flower.  .  .  .Bignonia  fraxini  foliis,  &c. .  •< 

T        .          (  Gelsominum  sive  iasminum  (  Bignonia  sem- 
Yellow    Jasmine,    j      luteum>  &c        J |      &per  yirens> 

Catalpa, Bignonia  Urucu  foliis,  &c. .  Bignonia  Catalpa. 

Chamaedaphne,   or )  ~.  ,     ,        r  ,..     .   .   c       (  Kalmia    lati- 

T-^        rr          i       r  Chamaedaphne  foliis  tini,  &c.  •<  r  ,. 

Dwarf  Laurel .  .  )  (  folia. 

c  .  .       ...      (  Kalmia     An- 

Chamaedaphne Semper  virens  angustis  foliis,  •<  ^  ,| 

N.  B.     These  are  by  the  Virginians  commonly  called  Ivy. 

May  Apple, Anapodophyllon  Canadense,  &c. 

Chinkapin,   Castanea  pumila  Virginiana,  &c..Fagus  pumila. 

,.      .  (        Diospyros 

rersimon, -s       ^7-     •   • 

(      Virgmiana. 

Scarlet  Flowering    )  p     . 
Chestnut, ) 

\r-     •   •    AT     i              r»i              f~\     •  i        i-  (  Platanus  Oc- 

Virgima  Maple, rlatanus  Occidentals, •<  .,        ,. 


Appendix,  N°  I 

COMMON  NAMES.      CATESBEAN.  LINN^SAN. 


Button  Wood, { 

Wild  Oat, Zizania  Aquatica. 

Ginseng, Aureliana  Canadensis, j 

T-kahoe  Root, { 

Pacoon  Flower. 

Atamusco  Lilly,  ....  Lillio  Narcissus  Virginiensis. 

Pine  Trees : 

White  Pine, ' Pinus  Strobus. 

„.  (     Pinus  foliis 

Pine, |  singularibus. 


BIRDS. 

Bald  Eagle, Aquila  capite  albo. 

Fishing  Hawk, Accipiter  Piscatorius. 

Wild  Turkey, Gallo  Pavo  Sylvestris. 

Sorus, Gallinula  Americana. 

Partridge, Perdrix  Sylvestris  Virginiana. 

Blue-Wing, Querquidula  Americana  fusca. 

Shell-Drake. 

Summer-Duck,.  .Anas  Americanus  cristatus  elegans. 

TV  c  ^  (  Columba  mi- 

rigeon  of  Passage,.  .  .  .ralumbus  migratonus,  .  .  •< 

v  o 

,,     ..       „.   ,  (  Turdus    minor,    cinereo    (  Turdus  Poly- 

Mocking-Bird, -<         ,,  ,  ,       J 

(      albus  non  maculatus,  .  (^  glottus. 

XT-  i   •*     i     F^  nm  r  Coccothraustes  ruber,  .  .Loxia  Cardinalis. 
Nightingale, ) 

Blue-Bird, Rubicula  Americana  caerulea.  .Motacilla  Sialis. 

[-59] 


Travels    Through  North   America 

COMMON  NAMES.     CATESBEAN.  LINN^EAN. 

Yellow-Bird, Parus  luteus,  &c.  Qu  ? 

Baltimore-Bird, Icterus  ex  aureo  nigroque  varius. 

Humming-Bird, Mellivora  Avis  Carolinensis,  \         T,rochilus 

(         Colubns. 

Turtle, Turtur  Carolinensis. 


FISH. 

Grampus. 


Albecor,..  .  j         Scomber 

(         I  hynnus. 
Boneta,   ..................................  Scomber  Pelamys. 

Flying-Fish,  ..............  Hirundo,  ..........  }  ^""""tlnl" 

Sheepshead. 

Rock-Fish. 

Drums,  ..............  Coracino  affinis. 

Shad,  ..........  Turdus  cinereus  peltatus;  Qu  ? 

Black-Fish. 

Sea-Bass. 

Sturgeon,  ..................................  Acipenser  Sturio. 


ANIMALS. 

Buffalo, Bison  Americanus. 

Moose  or  Elk ....  Alee  maxima  Americana  nigra. 

Grey  Fox, Vulpis  cinereus  Americanus. 

Flying  Squirrel, Sciurus  volans. 


Appendix,  N°  I 

COMMON  NAMES.      CATESBEAN.  LINN^AN. 


Ground  Squirrel,    Sciurus  striatus. 

Skunk  or  Polecat,. .  Putorius  Americanus  striatus,  ......  Putorius. 


SNAKES,  REPTILES,  INSECTS,  &c. 

Rattle-Snake,  .  . .  .Vipera  caudisona  Americana,   Crotalus. 

Black-Snake, Anguis  niger. 

Wampum-Snake,.  .Anguis  e  caeruleo  et  albo  varius. 

Bead-Snake, . .       .  j  AnS.uis  ?*?> maculis  rubris  } 

(    et  luteis  eleganter  varius.     ) 

Bull-Frog,   Rana  maxima  Americana  aquatica,.  . .  .Ocellata. 

Green-Tree  Frog,   ....  Rana  viridis  arborea, Arborea. 

Fire-Fly, Lampyris. 

Mosquito, Culex  pipiens. 


[161] 


Travels   Through  North  America 


APPENDIX,    N°    2 


I  HAVE  not  been  able  to  procure  any  satisfactory  ac- 
count of  the  tonnage  cleared  out  of  the  different  ports 
of  North  America,  in  the  years  1759  and  1760;  owing  to 
the  incorrect  manner  of  taking  the  tonnage  at  that  time, 
and  the  irregularity  with  which  the  accounts  were  generally 
transmitted  to  England:  but  having  been  favoured  by  G. 
Chalmers,  Esq.  first  Clerk  to  the  Committe  of  Council  for 
the  consideration  of  all  matters  relating  to  trade  and  foreign 
plantations,  with  an  exact  statement  of  the  number  of 
vessels  and  their  tonnage,  which  entered  inwards  and  cleared 
outwards,  in  Massachusetts,  Pennsylvania,  Virginia,  and 
South  Carolina,  in  the  year  1770;  at  which  time  the  colonies 
were  in  their  most  flourishing  condition: — a  probable  con- 
jecture may  be  formed  from  it  of  the  state  of  their  commerce 
ten  years  before,  by  allowing  for  its  increase  during  that 
period  of  peace  and  prosperity.  The  number  of  vessels 
and  their  tonnage  cleared  out  from  New  York  is  not  speci- 
fied in  the  statement;  but  by  collating  other  accounts  I  have 
endeavoured  to  ascertain  it  as  nearly  as  possible.  Mr. 
Chalmers,  with  the  greatest  liberality  and  politeness, 
favoured  me  at  the  same  time  with  several  tables  and  state- 
ments relating  to  the  commercial  situation  of  the  United 
States,  both  before  and  since  the  American  war;  which,  as 
they  are  full  of  information,  and  cannot  fail  of  being  highly 
interesting  to  the  reader,  I  have  here  annexed:  and  I  am 


Appendix,  NQ    2 


happy  to  have  this  opportunity  of  publicly  expressing  my 
gratitude  and  obligation  to  that  gentleman,  for  his  indul- 
gence in  permitting  me  to  avail  myself  of  such  valuable 
information. 


Travels   Through   North  America 

i. — A  STATEMENT  of  the  Number  of  VESSELS,  with  their 
TONNAGE,  which  entered  Inwards  and  cleared  Out- 
wards, in  the  following  Countries,  during  the  Year  1770. 


Massachusetts  
Pennsylvania  

Ships  entered.  Inwards. 

Ships  entered.  Outw'ds. 

Vessels. 

Tons. 

Vessels. 

Tons. 

1,247 
804 
6l3 
492 

65,271 
50,901 
44,803 
29,504 

J>334 
820 
604 
492 

70,284 
49,654 

45^79 
32,031 

Virginia 

South  Carolina 

In  the  same  year,  accord- 
ing to  the  best  inform- 
ation which  I  have  been 
able  to  procure,  there 
cleared  out  from  New 
York  

..612 

say  36,720 

2. — VESSELS  employed  between  GREAT  BRITAIN  and  the 
Countries  belonging  to  the  UNITED  STATES. 

Number  and  tonnage  of  the  vessels  clearing  outwards,  and  em- 
ployed yearly  in  the  trade  between  Great  Britain  and  the  coun- 
tries now  belonging  to  the  United  States  ships.  Tons, 
of  America,  on  an  average  of  the  years  - 
1770,  1771,  and  1772  before  the  war 628 

Number  of  ditto  so  employed,  entering  in- 
wards, on  a  like  average 699 

Medium  of  the  average  number  and  tonnage 
of  the  vessels  entering  inwards,  and  clear- 
ing outwards 663  86,745 


[164] 


Appendix^  N' 


Number  and  tonnage  of  British  vessels,  and  of  vessels  belonging 
to  the  United  States,  clearing  outwards,  so  employed,  on  an  ave- 
rage of  the  years 
1787,  1788,  and 
1789,  since  the 
war 

Number  and  ton- 
nage of  ditto,  en- 
tering inwards,  on 
a  like  average .  .  . 

Medium  of  the  ave- 
rage-number and 
tonnage  of  Brit- 
ish and  American 
vessels  so  employ- 
ed, entering  in- 
wards and  clear- 
ing outwards  .... 


BRITISH. 

AMERICAN. 

TOTAL. 

Ships. 

Tons. 

Ships. 

Tons. 

Ships. 

Tons. 

272 

55,785 

157 

25,725 

429 

8l,5IO 

251 

49,405 

169 

27,403 

420 

76,808 

26l 

52,595 

'63 

26,564 

425 

79,'59 

It  appears  from  the  foregoing  averages,  that  the  number 
of  vessels  employed  in  the  direct  commercial  intercourse 
between  Great  Britain  and  the  countries  now  belonging 
to  the  United  States  of  America,  has  decreased  since  the 
war  238;  and  that  the  quantity  of  tonnage  has  decreased 
since  the  war  7,586  tons.  The  decrease  of  the  tonnage 
appears  to  be  much  less  than  the  decrease  of  the  number 
of  the  ships,  and  the  decrease  of  the  tonnage  inwards  is 
much  greater  than  that  of  the  tonnage  outwards.  The 
reason  that  the  quantity  of  the  tonnage  in  general  appears 
to  be  less  decreased  than  the  number  of  ships,  is, 

FIRST. — That  larger  ships  are  now  employed  in  this  as 
well  as  in  every  other  branch  of  commerce,  than  formerly. 

SECONDLY. — The  imperfect  manner  of  taking  the  ton- 
nage before  the  war,  which,  in  order  that  the  master  might 
be  charged  a  less  sum  for  pilotage  and  lighthouse  duties, 


Travels    Through   North  America 

was  generally  estimated  at  about  one-third  less  than  it  really 
was. 

The  greater  decrease  of  the  tonnage  inwards,  compared 
with  that  of  the  tonnage  outwards,  is  to  be  imputed  to  the 
diminished  importation  of  the  bulky  articles  of  rice  and 
tobacco. 

It  appears  by  the  foregoing  account  of  the  vessels  em- 
ployed in  this  trade  since  the  war,  that  the  number  of  Ameri- 
can vessels  so  employed,  68  ships;  and  the  quantity  of 
British  tonnage  so  employed,  exceeds  the  quantity  of 
American  tonnage  so  employed,  26,031  tons. 

As  there  was  no  distinction  before  the  war,  between  ships 
belonging  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  countries  now  under  the 
dominion  of  the  United  States  and  the  other  parts  of  the 
British  dominions,  it  is  impossible  to  state  with  certainty, 
what  was  the  proportion  of  each  description  of  ships  then 
employed  in  this  branch  of  commerce. 

The  vessels  so  employed,  were  then  of  three  sorts: 

FIRST — Vessels  belonging  to  merchants  resident  in  the 
British  European  dominions. 

SECONDLY — Vessels  belonging  to  British  merchants,  oc- 
casionally resident  in  those  colonies  that  now  form  the 
United  States. 

THIRDLY — Vessels  belonging  to  merchants,  who  were 
natives  and  permanent  inhabitants  of  those  colonies  that 
now  form  the  United  States. 


[166] 


Appendix, 


3. — The  following  TABLE  will  shew  the  PROPORTION  of 
each  Description  of  Vessels,  classed  in  the  Manner  be- 
fore mentioned,  then  employed  in  this  Branch  of  Com- 
merce, according  to  the  best  Information  that  can  be 
obtained: 


Proportion  of 

Proportion  of 

vessels    belong- 

Proportion  of 

vessels    belong- 

ing  to    mer- 

vessels   belong- 

ing    to    British 

chants,    who 

ing    to    me  r- 

merchants,    oc- 

were natives  and 

chants,  resident 

casionally    resi- 

permanent    in- 

in   the    British 

dent     in     those 

habitants    of 

European      do- 

Colonies     that 

those     Colonies 

minions. 

now    form    the 

that  now  form 

United  States. 

the     United 

States. 

New  England,  

i  -  8th. 

i  -  8th. 

6  -  8ths. 

New  York, 

3  -8ths. 

3  -  8ths. 

2  -  8ths. 

Pennsylvania,  

2  -  8ths. 

3  -  8ths. 

3  -  8ths. 

Maryland  and  Virginia,  .  . 

6  -  8ths. 

i  -  8th. 

i  -  8th. 

North  Carolina, 

5  -  8ths. 

2  -  8ths. 

i  -  8th. 

S.  Carolina  and  Georgia, 

5  -  8ths. 

2  -  8ths. 

i  -  8th. 

From  the  foregoing  table  it  is  evident,  that  the  propor- 
tion of  vessels,  classed  under  the  before-mentioned  de- 
scriptions, varied  according  to  the  different  colonies,  now 
forming  the  United  States,  with  which  the  Commerce  of 
Great  Britain  was  then  carried  on;  the  quantity  of  shipping 
so  employed,  which  belonged  either  to  the  inhabitants  of 
Great  Britain,  or  to  British  merchants  occasionally  resident 
in  the  said  colonies,  being  much  greater  in  the  commercial 
intercourse  then  carried  on  with  the  southern  colonies,  than 
with  the  northern  colonies,  particularly  those  of  New  Eng- 
land. But  upon  the  whole,  there  is  reason  to  believe,  from 


Travels    Through  North  America 

calculations  founded  on  the  foregoing  table,  as  well  as  from 
other  information,  that  the  proportion  of  tonnage,  employed 
before  the  war  in  this  branch  of  commerce,  which  belonged 
to  the  inhabitants  of  Great  Britain,  was  about  four-eighths 
and  an  half;  and  the  proportion,  which  belonged  to  British 
merchants,  occasionally  resident  in  the  colonies  now  form- 
ing the  United  States,  was  about  one-eighth  and  an  half, 
making  together  nearly  six-eighths  of  the  whole;  and  that 
the  proportion  of  tonnage  so  employed,  which  belonged  to 
merchants,  who  were  then  natives  and  permanent  inhabi- 
tants of  the  colonies  now  forming  the  United  States,  was 
rather  more  than  two-eighths  of  the  whole.  At  present 
the  proportion  of  tonnage,  employed  in  this  branch  of  con- 
merce,  belonging  to  the  merchants  of  Great  Britain,  is 
nearly  six-eighths  of  the  whole;  and  the  proportion  of  ton- 
nage, belonging  to  the  merchants  of  the  United  States,  is 
rather  more  than  two-eighths  of  the  whole;  so  that  in  this 
view  of  the  subject,  though  the  quantity  of  shipping,  em- 
ployed between  Great  Britain,  and  the  countries  now  under 
the  dominion  of  the  United  States,  has  since  the  war  de- 
creased on  the  whole;  yet,  allowing  for  this  decrease,  the 
share  of  the  shipping  which  belongs  to  the  merchants  of 
Great  Britain,  has  increased  in  the  proportion  of  one- 
eighth  and  an  half;  (the  share  of  the  shipping,  which  before 
the  war  belonged  to  British  merchants,  occasionally  resi- 
dent in  the  colonies  now  forming  the  United  States,  being 
transferred  to  merchants  resident  in  Great  Britain);  and 
the  share  of  the  shipping  so  employed,  which  now  belongs 
to  merchants,  subjects  of  the  United  States,  and  permanent 
inhabitants  thereof,  is  nearly  the  same  as  it  was  before  the 
war. 

[168] 


Appendix,  N°    2 

4. — VESSELS  employed  between  GREAT  BRITAIN  and  the 
remaining  BRITISH  COLONIES  in  NORTH  AMERICA. 


Number  and  tonnage  of  British  vessels  clearing  outwards,  and  em- 
ployed yearly  in  the  trade  between  Great  Britain  and  the  re- 
maining British  colonies  in  North  America, 
on  an  average  of  the  years  1770, 1771,  and 
1772,  before  the  war 

Number  and  tonnage  of  ditto  so  employed, 
entering  inwards,  on  a  like  average 

Medium  of  the  average  number  and  tonnage 
of  British  vessels  entering  inwards,  and 
clearing  outwards 

Number  and  tonnage  of  British  vessels  clear- 
ing outwards,  employed  in  this  trade,  on  an 
average  of  the  years  1787,  1788,  and  1789, 
since  the  war 

Number  and  tonnage  of  ditto  so  employed, 
entering  inwards,  on  a  like  average 

Medium  of  the  average  number  and  tonnage 
of  British  vessels  entering  inwards,  and 
clearing  outwards 


Ships. 

Tons. 

250 

9,582 

273 

12,857 

26l 

11,219 

486 

61,858 

249 

3°>355 

367 

46,106 

By  the  foregoing  averages  it  appears,  that  the  number 
of  vessels  employed  between  Great  Britain  and  the  remain- 
ing colonies  in  North  America,  being  all  British  ships,  has 
increased  since  the  war  in  the  proportion  of  about  one-half, 
being  106  vessels  more  than  it  was  before  the  war;  and  the 
quantity  of  tonnage  has  increased  34,887  tons,  being  in  the 
proportion  of  about  four  times  more  than  it  was  before  the 
war. 


[169] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

5. — VESSELS  employed  between  the  remaining  BRITISH 
COLONIES  in  NORTH  AMERICA,  and  the  countries  belong- 
ing to  the  UNITED  STATES. 

Number  and  tonnage  of  British  vessels  clearing  outwards,  and  em- 
ployed yearly  in  the  trade  between  the  remaining  British  colonies 
in  North  America,  and  the  countries  which  were  then  British 
colonies,  but  now  form  the  United  States  of 
America,  on  an  average  of  the  years  1770, 
1771,  and  1772,  before  the  war 

Number  and  tonnage  of  ditto  so  employed, 
entering  inwards,  on  a  like  average 

Medium  of  the  average  number  and  tonnage 
of  British  vessels  entering  inwards,  and 
clearing  outwards 

Number  and  tonnage  of  British  vessels  clear- 
ing outwards,  and  employed  yearly  in  the 
trade  between  the  remaining  British  colo- 
nies in  North  America,  and  the  countries 
belonging  to  the  United  States,  on  an 
average  of  the  years  1787,  1788,  and  1789, 
since  the  war 

Number  and  tonnage  of  ditto  so  employed, 
entering  inwards,  on  a  like  average 

Medium  of  the  average  number  and  tonnage 
of  British  vessels  entering  inwards,  and 
clearing  outwards 


Ships. 

Tons. 

250 

9,582 

276 

12,857 

263 

11,219 

208 

15^35 

269 

15,524 

238 

J5>329 

The  number  of  the  vessels,  so  stated,  includes  their  re- 
peated voyages,  and  it  appears  that  the  number  has  de- 
creased, since  the  war,  25  vessels,  or  about  one-tenth:  but 
the  quantity  of  the  tonnage  has  increased  4,110  tons,  or 
about  one-third.  The  vessels,  employed  before  the  war  in 
this  branch  of  trade,  might  lawfully  belong  to  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  countries  now  under  the  dominion  of  the  United 
States,  it  is  certain  they  then  owned  much  the  greatest  share 


Appendix,  N°   2 

of  these  vessels:  but  vessels  so  employed  can  now  belong 
only  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  remaining  colonies,  or  of  some 
other  part  of  the  British  dominions. 


6. — VESSELS  employed  between  the  BRITISH  ISLANDS  in 
the  WEST  INDIES,  and  the  Countries  belonging  to  the 
UNITED  STATES. 


Number  and  tonnage  of  British  vessels  clearing  outwards,  and  em- 
ployed yearly  in  the  trade  between  the  British  Islands  in  the 
West  Indies,  and  the  countries  belonging  to 
theUnited  States,  on  an  average  of  the  years 
1770,  1771,  and  1772,  before  the  war 

Number  and  tonnage  of  ditto  so  employed, 
entering  inwards,  on  a  like  average 

Medium  of  the  average  number  and  tonnage 
of  British  vessels  entering  inwards,  and 
clearing  outwards 

Number  and  tonnage  of  British  vessels  clear- 
ing outwards,  and  employed  yearly  in  the 
trade  between  the  British  islands  in  the  West 
Indies,  and  the  countries  belonging  to  the 
United  States,  on  an  average  of  the  years 
1787,  1788,  and  1789,  since  the  war 

Number  and  tonnage  of  ditto  so  employed, 
entering  inwards,  on  a  like  average 

Medium  of  the  average  number  and  tonnage 
of  British  vessels,  entering  inwards,  and 
clearing  outwards 


Ships. 

Tons. 

2,172 

I03>540 

2,297 

11  1,939 

2,234 

!07,739 

510 

57>9?4 

579 

67,573 

544 

62,738 

THE  account  of  the  number  of  vessels  from  whence  these 
averages  are  taken,  includes  their  repeated  voyages.  It  has 
decreased  since  the  war  1,690  ships,  or  is  three-fourths  less 
than  it  was  before  the  war.  The  quantity  of  tonnage  has 
decreased  45,001  tons,  or  rather  less  than  half  what  it  was 

[171] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

before  the  war:  but  five-eighths  of  these  vessels,  before  the 
war,  belonged  to  merchants,  permanent  inhabitants  of  the 
countries  now  under  the  dominion  of  the  United  States; 
and  three-eighths  to  British  merchants,  residing  occasion- 
ally in  the  said  countries.  At  that  time  very  few  vessels 
belonging  to  British  merchants,  resident  in  the  British 
European  dominions,  or  in  the  British  islands  in  the  West 
Indies,  had  a  share  in  this  trade.  The  vessels  employed 
in  this  trade  can  now  only  belong  to  British  subjects  residing 
in  the  present  British  dominions.  Many  vessels  now  go 
from  the  ports  of  Great  Britain,  carrying  British  manu- 
factures to  the  United  States,  then  load  with  lumber  and 
provisions  for  the  British  islands  in  the  West  Indies,  and 
return,  with  the  produce  of  these  islands,  to  Great  Britain. 
The  vessels  so  employed  are  much  larger  than  those  in 
which  this  trade  was  formerly  carried  on,  and  for  this  reason 
the  tonnage  employed  in  it  has  decreased  much  less  than 
the  number  of  the  vessels. 


7. — VESSELS  employed  between  the  remaining  BRITISH 
COLONIES  in  NORTH  AMERICA,  and  the  BRITISH  ISLANDS 
in  WEST  INDIES. 


Number  and  tonnage  of  British  vessels  clearing  outwards,  and  em- 
ployed yearly  in  the  trade  between  the  remaining  British  colonies 
in  North  America,  and  the  British  islands  in 
the  West  Indies,  on  an  average  of  the  years 
1770,  1771,  and  1772,  before  the  war 

Number  and  tonnage  of  ditto  so  employed, 
entering  inwards,  on  a  like  average 

Medium  of  the  average  number  and  tonnage 
of  British  vessels,  entering  inwards,  and 
clearing  outwards 


Ships. 

Tons. 

15 

753 

23 

1,240 

19 

996 

Appendix,   N' 


Number  and  tonnage  of  British  vessels,  clear- 
ing outwards,  and  employed  yearly  in  the 
trade  between  the  remaining  British  colo- 
nies in  North  America,  and  the  British 
islands  in  the  West  Indies,  on  an  average 
of  the  years  1787,  1788,  and  1789,  since 
the  war 

Number  and  tonnage  of  ditto  so  employed, 
entering  inwards,  on  a  like  average 

Medium  of  the  average  number  and  tonnage 
of  British  vessels  entering  inwards,  and 
clearing  outwards 


Ships. 

Tons. 

142 

12,696 

171 

16,33! 

I56 

H,5I3 

The  account  of  the  number  of  vessels  from  whence  these 
averages  are  taken,  includes  their  repeated  voyages.  The 
number  of  vessels  so  employed  has  increased  since  the  war 
137  ships,  being  seven  times  more  than  it  was  before  the 
war:  and  the  quantity  of  tonnage  has  increased  13,517  tons, 
being  thirteen  times  more  than  it  was  before  the  war. 
Many  of  these  vessels,  before  the  war,  belonged  to  the  in- 
habitants of  the  countries  which  were  then  British  colonies, 
but  are  now  under  the  dominion  of  the  United  States:  they 
can  now  only  belong  to  British  subjects,  resident  in  some 
part  of  His  Majesty's  present  dominions. 

As  the  result  of  the  foregoing  deduction  the  following 
table  has  been  prepared;  in  which  allowance  is  made  for  the 
repeated  voyages,  which  the  vessels  employed  in  these  dif- 
ferent branches  of  trade  are  supposed  to  make  in  each  year; 
and  the  number  and  tonnage  of  the  vessels  is  reduced  in 
due  proportion.  This  table  will  shew,  at  one  view,  the 
increase  and  decrease  of  vessels  and  tonnage  employed  in 
these  various  branches  of  navigation;  and  how  far  the 
balance  on  the  whole  is  at  present  in  favour  of  Great- 
Britain. 

[173] 


•I:* 

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—  ,  « 


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ea 

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CO 


[174] 


ts         o        ro 

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xh         \O  - 


M  VO 


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T3   u  £   c   S 

3         C        HH        PS        1.4 

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ON     O      CO     •<*• 

vO     CO 

CO 

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rt 

OJ 


^°     -  'co 

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*-"    J2      *-• 

Sot!  "M 


T 
ti 


ECAPITULA 
foremen 
dec 


Total  increase 
Decrease  on 
branch  of  freig 


CQ 


CO      OJ 


-C  T3     uJ      ' 

O       CJ       rrt       ** 

c   -H    ?r>    o 


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[175] 


9. — AN  ACCOUNT  of  the  Tonnage  of  Vessels  entered  into  the  Ui 
October,  1789,  to  the  3Oth  of  September  1790,  distinguishii 
of  its  Tonnage;  and  distinguishing  the  American  from  Fo 


STATES. 

AMERICAN. 

EUROPE 

W  co 

II 

Jl 

Fishing  Vessels. 

Vessels  in  the 
Oversea  Trade  . 

«—  i    M 
nj     03 

'1 

&c  j_,  -a 

III! 

x  2.c  £ 

oj    bo  ^    fcfi 

8  .S  -n  -2 
>     « 

M     „• 

fl      a 

0           Q 

w  2  *i 

«£ 
-3-S  * 

|       1 

Massachusetts  .  .  . 
Pennsylvania  .... 
Virginia  

53,073 
6,055 

9,9J4 
6,203 
16,099 
508 

5>723 
6,330 
1,090 
1,670 
1,626 
1,061 
3,429 

24,826 

55 

60 

473 
838 

99,124 
5^594 
33,56o 
42,072 
39,272 
16,871 
24,219 
24,286 
9>544 
n,376 
7,061 
3,080 
2,085 

177,023 
57M 
43,529 
48,275 

55,43! 
17,379 
29,942 
30,616 
10,634 
13,5*9 
9,525 
4,Hi 
5,5H 

19,493 
24,605 

56,273 
36,918 

23,339 

18,725 

4,94i 
2,556 
15,041 

3,458 
95 
1,783 
267 

853 
9,665 
4,093 
6,921 
9,481 
4,25^ 
244 

i,5?c 
34 

221 

75 

Maryland  .  . 

New  York  
*  South  Carolina  .  . 
f  North  Carolina  . 
Connecticut  .... 
Georgia  
New  Hampshire  .  . 
J  Rhode  Island  .. 
Delaware  
New  Jersey  . 

Total.  . 

112,781 

26,252 

364,144 

503,177 

225,494 

37,42C 

*  In  the  Returns  from  Charles  Town,  one  Quarter 
f  The  Returns  from  this  State  did  not  commence 
J  The  Returns  from  this  State  did  not  commence 

NOTE. — This  Table  contains  an  account  of  the  tonnage  of  vessels  ente 
period  subsequent  to  any  of  those  years  on  which  the  averages  statec 
all  the  tonnage  belonging  to  the  subjects  of  the  United  States  of  Ameri 
their  coasting  trade,  and  their  fisheries,  which  entered  their  ports  duririj 
of  it  was  employed  in  their  foreign  trade  with  the  British  dominions, 
the  preceding  tables,  is  only  of  so  much  of  the  tonnage  of  the  Unitec 
the  various  branches  of  commerce,  with  such  parts  of  the  British  i 
trade,  in  ships  belonging  to  the  said  States. 


States  of  AMERICA,  from  the  ist  of 
h  State  according  to  the  Magnitude 

Vessels. 


!"3 


J369 
1919 

;894 
114 

255 
,1360 
,127 

172 

245 
.on 
841 
924 
,860 


RECAPITULATION. 


Total  Tonnage  of  each  Country. 
Viz.  Tons. 

United  States 503»T77 

Great  Britain  .  .  222,347 

Ireland 3,1471-225,494! 

France    I3>435i 

Holland 8,815* 

Spain    8,551^ 

Portugal 2,924 

Denmark    1,619! 

Germany 1,368 

Prussia 394 

Sweden 31 1|- 

Total 766,091 


Citing,  and  not  included. 

ith  of  March,  1790. 

[st  of  June,  1790.  ^ 

jhe  several  ports  of  the  United  States,  in  a 
re  were  formed.  It  contains  an  account  of 
nployed  in  every  part  of  their  foreign  trade, 
:  period;  but  does  not  distinguish  what  part 
he  other  hand,  the  account  given  above  in 
les  as  was  employed  during  those  years  in 
,ions  with  which  they  are  allowed  now  to 


Appendix,  N' 


IO.-VALUE  of  EXPORTS  from  the  UNITED  STATES  to  dif- 
ferent Parts  of  the  World,  from  the  Commencement  of 
the  Custom  Houses  in  August,  1789,  to  3Oth  September, 
1790,  viz. 


Dollars.     Cents.* 

Provisions    5>757>4^2 

Grain    2,519,232 

Fish 941,696 

Lumber    1,263,534 

Live  stock 486,105 

10,968,044 
Other   articles 9,447,917  :  84 


Dollars.    Cents. 
Total  20,415,966  :  84 

Of  these  the  Exports 

To  the  Dominions  of  France 4*698,735  :  48 

D°.  Great   Britain    9,363,416  :  47 

D°.  Spain   2,005,907  :  16 

D°.  Portugal     1,283,462 

D°.  United    Netherlands 1,963,880  :    9 

D°.  Denmark 224,415  :  50 

D°.  Sweden 47,240 

D°.  Flanders 14,298 

D°.  Germany 487,787  :  14 

D°.  Mediterranean 41,298 

D°.  African  Coast  and  Islands 139,984 

D°.  East  Indies 135,181 

D°.  North  West  Coast  of  America 10,362 

20,415,966  :~84 

Exclusive  of  many  packages  omitted  in  the  returns  from 
the  custom-houses,  which  were  exported  from  the  United 
States. 

*  A  cent  is  one  hundredth  part  of  a  dollar,  or  about  a  halfpenny. 
[i79] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

ii. — LIST  of  such  VESSELS  (and  the  respective  TONNAGE  of 
each  Denomination)  as  entered  the  Port  of  PHILADEL- 
PHIA, from  the  1st  Day  of  September  1772,  to  the  1st  Day 
of  September  1775,  distinguishing  each  Year;  and  also 
distinguishing  those  which  were  owned  in  GREAT  BRIT- 
AIN, IRELAND,  and  such  Parts  of  the  BRITISH  Dominions 
as  are  not  now  comprehended  within  the  UNITED  STATES 
(N°.  i);  those  which  were  owned  in  the  Port  of  PHILA- 
DELPHIA alone  (N°.  2);  and  those  which  were  owned  in 
the  Thirteen  Colonies  which  now  compose  the  UNITED 
STATES  of  AMERICA  (N°.  3). 


N°  i.  BRITISH 

. 

1772  to  1773. 

23  Ships  
30  Brigantines  .... 
4  Snows  

Tons. 

3.508 
2,925 
170 

1773  to  1774 
N° 
28  Ships  
33  Brigantines  .  .  . 
12  Snows  

Tons. 

4>3°4 
2,853 
1,246 

1774  to  1775. 
N° 
35  Ships  
33  Brigantines  .  . 
7  Snows    

Tons. 
5.59° 
7-20 

22  Sloops  

1,043 

24  Sloops  

1,142 

22  Sloops  

i,  006 

i  8  Schooners  

822 

22  Schooners  .... 

962 

17  Schooners  .  .  . 

842 

97 

8,668 

119 

10,507 

114 

U.338 

N°  2.  PHILADELPHIA. 


1772  to  1773. 
N°.                              Tons. 

1773  to  1774. 
N°                               Tons. 
1  16  Ships                    17,569 

1774  to  1775. 
N°                               Tons. 
146  Ships               .    23,406 

140  Brigantines  ...12,148 

176  Brigantines  .  .    15,749 
18  Snows                   2,092 

205  Brigantines  .  .    17,802 
17  Snows  \fffx 

39  Sloops                    1,806 

4.2  Sloops  .  .              1*844 

63  Schooners  .  .  .      3,226 

54  Schooners  .  .  .      2>959 

35  Schooners  ...      1,834 

3/6                              36,467 

406                             4°>2I3 

439                            46,858 

[180] 


Appendix,   N°   2 


N°  3.  AMERICA. 


1772  to  1773. 
N°                               Tons. 
5  Ships  700 

1773  to  1774. 
N°                              Tons. 
6  Ships    860 

1774  to  1775. 
N°                               Tons. 
7  Ships  .                     902 

46  Brigantines  .  .      3,856 
I  Snow  1  60 

28  Brigantines  .  .      2,224 

30  Brigantines  .  .      2,576 
I  Snow                          80 

i-iq  Sloops                    6  COT 

ncSlooDs                   c  876 

80  Schooners  .  .  .      3,899 

8  1  Schooners  .  .  .      3,962 

78  Schooners  .  .  .      4,025 

271                            I5>II8 

250                             12,922 

246                             13,426 

12. — A  TABLE,  shewing  what  Proportion  the  TONNAGE  of 
GREAT  BRITAIN  employed  out  of  the  Port  of  PHILADEL- 
PHIA bore  to  the  TONNAGE  employed  out  of  that  Port, 
and  owned  therein,  upon  an  Average  of  three  Years 
antecedent  to  the  War,  and  what  Proportion  the  Ton- 
nage of  Great  Britain  so  employed  then  bore  to  the  Ton- 
nage of  Philadelphia,  united  with  the  Tonnage  of  the 
other  twelve  American  Colonies  so  employed. — Shew- 
ing also,  what  Proportion  the  British  Tonnage  now  em- 
ployed in  the  Trade  of  Philadelphia  bears  to  the  Ton- 
nage of  all  the  United  States  employed  out  of  that  Port, 
upon  an  Average  of  the  last  two  Years. 


British 
Philadt 
American 


By  the  foregoing  table  it  appears,  that  the  tonnage  of 
Great  Britain  employed  out  of  the  port  of  Philadelphia  in 
the  above  years  was  not  equal  to  i-4th  part  of  the  tonnage 
employed  out  of  and  owned  in  the  port  of  Philadelphia; — 

[181] 


'773- 

1774- 

1775- 

TOTAL 

Tons. 

Tons. 

Tons. 

Tons. 

8,668 

IO.CO7 

I  1,-3-Jl 

-?o,co8 

phia  

16,467 

*  WO    / 
4-0,  2.  1  \ 

*  X'J  J  J 

46,8  c8 

JW5JV-"J 

i2-;,C';8 

n 

JVJTV/ 

i  ?  1  18 

T    >       j 

12,922 

TTWI    Jw 

11   4.26 

j  O  j 
4.1  466 

phia  and  American  combined. 

j>    ° 
5M85 

53>'35 

J  >T 

60,284 

T     ?T     u 

165,004 

Travels    Through   North   America 

and  that  the  tonnage  of  Great  Britain  then  so  employed, 
bore  only  a  proportion  as  2  does  to  ii  to  the  tonnage  of 
Philadelphia  and  the  other  twelve  colonies  combined,  so 
employed. 


1788. 

1789. 

TOTAL 

Tons. 

Tons. 

Tons. 

British  
American    . 

23,004 
28,028 

29,372 
17,728 

5^376 
6c,7<6 

By  the  above  table  it  appears,  that  the  tonnage  of  Great 
Britain  employed  out  of  the  port  of  Philadelphia  in  the 
years  1788  and  1789,  amounted  to  within  one-fifth  part 
of  the  tonnage  of  all  the  thirteen  United  States  combined, 
so  employed. 


13. — A  LIST  of  BRITISH  VESSELS  which  entered  the  Port 
of  Philadelphia  the  following  Years,  viz.  from  5th  Sep- 
tember 1787,  to  5th  September  1788. 


FROM 

BRITISH  WEST 

BRITISH  AMERICAN 

GREAT  BRITAIN. 

IRELAND 

INDIES. 

COLONIES. 

Vessels. 

Tons. 

Vessels.       Tons. 

Vessels.       Tons 

Vessels.       Tons. 

16  Ships  
19  Brigantines 
3  Snows    .... 
3  Sloops  .... 
I  Schooner  .  . 

3>748 
2,907 
.  456 
.  198 
.  85 

4  Ships.... 
i  Brig   .... 
i  Snow.  .  .  . 

i,  02  1 

'35 
90 

i  Ship   ....       174 
52  Brigs    .  .  .    6,229 
64  Sloops  .  .  .   5,597 
24  Schooners   1,695 

i  Ship  160 
6  Brigantines    462 
i  Schooner  .  .     47 

42  Sail. 

7,394 

6  Sail. 

1,246 

141  Sail.        T3>695 

8  Sail.                669 

TOTAL. 


22  Ships ~| 

78  Brigantines  ....  | 

4  Snows \  197  Sail  Vessels  —  23,004  Tc 

67  Sloops i 


26  Schooners 


[182] 


Appendix,  N°   2 


A  LIST  of  BRITISH  VESSELS  which  entered  the  Port  of 
Philadelphia  the  following  Years,  viz.  from  5th  Septem- 
ber 1788,  to  5th  September  1789. 


FROM 
GREAT  BRITAIN. 

Vessels.          Tons. 

*3  ShiPs  5>967 
19  Brigantines    2,936 
I  Snow                  104 

IRELAND. 

Vessels.         Tons. 
15  Ships.  .  .  .    2,961 
5  Brigantines    63  1 
I  Snow.             1  08 

BRITISH  WEST 
INDIES. 

Vessels.         Tons. 
T.  Ships  .  .    .  .   600 

BRITISH  AMERICAN 
COLONIES. 

Vessels.         Tons, 
i  Ship  162 
loBrigantines  1,060 
2  Sloops  ....    106 
7  Schooners  .  .   544 

20  Sail.             1,872 

48  Brigantines  6,010 
69  Sloops  .  .  .   5,586 
29  Schooners  2,332 

149  Sail.         14,528 

4  Sloops  223 
i  Schooner  .  .        42 

48  Sail.                9,272 

21  Sail.            3,7oo 

TOTAL. 

42  Ships "] 

82  Brigantines  ....  I 

2  Snows r  238  Sail  Vessels  —  29,372  Tons. 

75S1°°PS I 

37  Schooners J 


'Travels    Through   North   America 

14. — ACCOUNT  of  VESSELS  belonging  to  other  EUROPEAN 
NATIONS,  which  entered  the  principal  Ports  of  the 
UNITED  STATES  in  the  following  Years;  viz. 


1787. 


CHARLES  TOWN. 


Spain    . 

Ships. 

Brigantines. 

Schooners. 

Sloops. 

American 
Tonnage. 

o 

0 

I 
I 
0 
0 

o 
o 

2 

2 

4 
4 
o 
i 
i 
i 
i 

39 

2 
O 
0 
O 
0 

o 
o 

3 

2 

0 
0 
0 

o 
o 
o 

1,073 

7*5 
799 
280 

193 

164 

130 

127 

France  
United  Netherlands.  . 
Altona 

Bremen 

Denmark   
Hamburgh 

Austria       

1788. 
France    

H 

41 

5 

3,481 

I 

O 

7 
o 
o 
o 
o 

PHI] 

4 
4 
6 

3 

2 
I 

2 

LADELPHI/ 
I 

4 
4 

0 

o 
o 

0 

L. 

0 
2 
O 
0 

O 
0 

692 
1,022 

2,335 
321 

430 

157 

388 

Holland  

Spain 

Portugal 

Sweden       

Denmark  
Prussia  

8 

22 

9 

3 

5,345 

[184] 


i789. 


Appendix,  NQ  2 

NEW  YORK. 


France 
Hollam 
Spain 

Ships. 

Brigantines. 

Schooners. 

Sloops. 

American 
Tonnage. 

I 

2 

3 
3 

o 

5 
i 

3 

4 

2 

0 
O 
I 
I 

O 

0 

o 

4 
o 
o 

1,000 
960 
1,580 
1,380 
4OO 

]  

Portug; 
Sweden 

1789 

I*J 

*O     %     c« 

%\>  6  ' 
gj   o 

a,       'rt 

£       - 

ll 

To  Virginia  .  . 
Maryland 
North  Car 
Georgia  . 

9 

15 

2 

4 

5*320 

2,664 
2,348 
3,OOO 
2,500 
1,758 

olina 

Massachu 

Add  to 
the  re 

setts  .  .        

the  ab< 
st  of  t 

Total 

>ve  amour 
heUnited  5 

amount 

it  one-fourth  for 
>tates  

26,416 
6,604 

33,020 

Which  is  little  more  than  one-fourth  of  the  tonnage  of 
the  vessels  belonging  to  British  merchants  in  all  the  different 
branches  of  this  commerce,  not  allowing,  in  either  case,  for 
repeated  voyages. 


Travels    Through   North   America 

It  is  left  to  the  intelligent  reader  to  draw  his  own  conclu- 
sions from  the  above  tables  and  statements;  and,  in  addi- 
tion to  what  has  been  said,  I  shall  only  further  observe,  that 
the  total  annual  decrease  in  value,  since  the  war,  of  British 
manufactures  and  other  articles,  exported  from  Great 
Britain  to  the  countries  belonging  to  the  United  States,  has 
amounted  to £.  39^,393 

The  total  annual  increase  in  value,  since  the 

war,  of  the  like  articles,  exported  from  Great 

Britain,  to  the  remaining   British   colonies 

in  North  America,  has  been 449,677 

To  the  British  West  Indian  islands 114,801 

Total 564,478 

So  that  upon  the  whole  the  annual  increase  in  value,  since 
the  war,  of  British  manufactures  and  other  articles  ex- 
ported from  Great  Britain  to  North  America  and  the  West 
Indies,  has  amounted  to £.  166,085 

The  total  annual  decrease  in  value,  since  the 
war,  of  import  in  to  Great  Britain  from 
the  United  States,  has  amounted  to £.  843,506 

The  total  annual  increase  in  value,  since  the 
war,  of  imports  into  Great  Britain  from 
the  remaining  British  colonies  in  North 
America,  has  been £.  96,986 

From  the  British  West  Indian  islands 671,066 

Total £.  768,052 

So  that  upon  the  balance  total,  the  decrease 

has  been 75454 

This  decrease  has  been  chiefly  owing  to  the  decreased 

[186] 


Appendix,  N°    2 


importation  of  tobacco  and  rice  (the  Americans  not  being 
any  longer  obliged  to  ship  their  produce  for  British  ports 
only)  amounting  in  value, 

Upon  44,774,458  Ibs.  of  the  former,  to £.  582,987 

Upon  259,035  cwt.  of  the  latter,  to 196,526 

In  the  whole  to £.  779,513 

The  value  of  exports  to  the  countries  now  belonging  to 
the  United  States,  has  exceeded  the  value  of  imports  from 
thence,  without  including  Ireland,  in  a  much  greater  pro- 
portion since  the  war  than  before  it;  the  balance  of  trade, 
therefore,  is  more  in  favour  of  Great  Britain. 

It  must  be  highly  satisfactory  to  the  reader  to  know,  that 
the  value  of  the  British  exports  of  1789  exceeded  those  of 
1784,  to  all  countries,  by £.  4,400,609 

N.  B. — The  reader  may  possibly  discover  two  or  three 
trifling  inaccuracies,  none  of  them,  however,  (if  there  are 
any  such)  exceeding  a  fraction,  or  at  most  an  unit,  in  the 
preceding  computations;  which  the  Editor  has  not  thought  it 
necessary  to  notice. 


Travels    Through   North  America 

15. — AN  ACCOUNT  of  the  Number  of  Ships  and  Brigs 
built  in  the  Ports  of  the  UNITED  STATES,  in  the  Year 
1772,  compared  with  the  like  Vessels  building  in  the  said 
States  in  1789.* 


STATES. 


New  Hampshire 
Massachusetts  .  . 
Rhode  Island... 
Connecticut  . 


Total  of  the  N.  England  Provinces 

New  York 

New  Jersey 

Pennsylvania 

Maryland 

Virginia 

North  Carolina 

South  Carolina   

Georgia 

Total 


1772. 

1789. 

Vessels.     Tons. 

Vessels.       Tons. 

— 

— 

6 

— 

— 



5 

— 

I23 

15 
I 

18,149 
1,640 
80 

ii 
i 

o 

200 

18 
8 

2,897 
1,626 

H 
5 

2,966 
1,200 

7 

933 

— 

— 

3 

253 

— 

— 

2 

213 

— 

— 

5 

753 

— 

— 

182 

31 

*  In  the  account  of  ships  and  brigs  built  in  the  ports  of  the 
United  States  in  the  year  1772,  there  is  no  specification  of  the  num- 
bers built  in  each  of  the  New  England  provinces,  but  a  total  only 
of  the  number  and  tonnage  of  vessels  built  in  all  these  provinces; 
nor  was  any  account  given  of  the  tonnage  of  the  eleven  vessels 
building  in  the  provinces  of  New  Hampshire  and  Massachusetts 
Bay  in  1789.  So  that  it  is  not  possible  to  make  a  comparison  of  the 
quantity  of  tonnage  of  which  the  vessels  in  the  foregoing  table  con- 
sists. 


[188] 


APPENDIX,    N°   3. 

THE  success  of  this  institution  has  in  no  degree  corre- 
sponded to  the  excellence  of  the  design.  The  aborigi- 
nal Indians  are  from  their  infancy  accustomed  to  an  idle 
and  roving  life;  they  are  chiefly  employed  in  hunting,  fowl- 
ing, or  fishing,  or,  as  soon  as  they  are  able  to  carry  arms  or 
a  tomahawk,  to  war;  and  it  is  almost  impossible  to  reclaim 
them  from  this  savage  and  dissipated  mode  of  life.  Not 
many  years  ago,  a  remarkable  instance  happened  at  Wil- 
liamsburg,  which  greatly  exemplifies  the  present  observa- 
tion: The  Cherokees  had  with  difficulty  been  prevailed  upon 
to  suffer  one  of  their  children,  a  youth  of  nine  or  ten  years 
of  age,  to  be  conducted  to  Williamsburg,  in  order  that  he 
might  be  educated  in  Mr.  Boyle's  school.  The  young  In- 
dian soon  shewed  himself  impatient  of  restraint  and  con- 
finement; he  grew  sullen,  would  learn  nothing,  and  although 
every  means  were  tried  to  please  him  (for  it  was  the  wish 
and  interest  of  the  colony  that  he  should  be  pleased)  ap- 
peared always  dissatisfied  and  unhappy.  One  morning  he 
was  missed,  and  although  every  possible  inquiry  was  made, 
no  tidings  could  be  heard,  nor  the  least  information  re- 
ceived concerning  him:  he  had  not  been  seen  by  any  one, 
either  planter  or  negro;  and  as  the  distance  of  the  Cherokee 
country  was  four  or  five  hundred  miles,  separated  by  large 
rivers  abounding  with  sharks,  or  immense  forests  full  of 
venomous  serpents  or  wild  beasts,  it  was  justly  apprehended 
that  he  must  inevitably  perish;  and  as  it  would  be  impossible 


Travels   Through   North  America 

to  convince  the  Indians  of  the  real  truth  of  the  case,  it 
might  unhappily  occasion  a  war  with  the  Cherokee  nation, 
a  circumstance  of  the  most  calamitous  importance.  It 
fortunately  happened,  however,  that  the  young  Indian  got 
safe  home;  he  headed  or  swam  over  the  great  rivers  that 
obstructed  his  way;  concealed  himself  in  the  woods  during 
the  day,  travelled  in  the  night,  supported  himself  with  the 
tuckahoe  and  other  roots  and  berries,  and  by  that  natural 
sagacity  which  is  characteristic  of  the  Indians  *  explored 
his  way  through  an  immense  extent  of  trackless  woods  and 
forests  to  his  native  cabin.  At  present  the  only  Indian 
children  in  Mr.  Boyle's  school  are  five  or  six  of  the  Pamunky 
tribe,  who,  being  surrounded  by  and  living  in  the  midst  of 
our  settlements,  are  more  accustomed  to  the  manners  and 
habits  of  the  English  colonists. 

A  circumstance  similar  to  the  above  I  find  mentioned 
by  Mr.  Catesby  in  his  Natural  History  of  Carolina; 
and  it  probably  refers  to  the  same  event.  The  story, 
as  I  have  related  it,  was  communicated  to  'me  by  the 
Hon.  and  Rev.  Mr.  Commissary  Dawson,  President  of 
the  College. 

The  character  of  the  North  American  Indians  is  not  to  be 
collected  from  observations  upon  the  Pamunky,  or  any  other 
Indian  tribe  living  within  the  boundaries  of  the  British 
settlements.  These  are  in  many  respects  changed,  per- 

*  A  melancholy  proof  of  the  inferiority  of  Europeans  to  Indians 
in  this  respect  happened  in  the  year  1757,  when  Col.  Spotswood, 
who  was  out  with  a  party  of  rangers  formed  of  Virginia  gentlemen, 
for  the  protection  of  the  frontiers,  unfortunately  strayed  from  his 
companions,  could  not  find  his  way  back  either  to  them,  or  to  any 
of  our  settlements,  though  constantly  used  to  be  out  upon  hunt- 
ing-parties, and  miserably  perished  in  the  woods. 


Appendix,   N°  J 


haps  not  for  the  better,  from  their  original  customs  and 
moral  habits.  In  general  the  North  American  Indians  re- 
semble each  other  in  the  great  outlines  and  features  of 
character,  but  intercourse  with  the  Europeans,  excessive 
use  of  brandy  and  other  spirits,  and,  which  is  almost  irre- 
sistible, the  depravity  and  immoral  example  of  our  Indian 
traders  and  back-settlers,  all  these  have  concurred  in 
a  most  unfortunate  degree  to  corrupt  and  contaminate 
their  minds.  It  is  not  my  intention  to  enter  into  a  dis- 
cussion of  this  subject,  but  the  following  anecdotes,  for 
the  truth  of  which  I  can  answer,  may  possibly  cast  some 
light  upon  it,  and  may  occasionally  be  of  use  to  any 
future  historian,  who  shall  undertake  to  consider  and 
treat  of  it  more  largely. 

Previous  to  my  arrival  in  Virginia,  a  war  had  been  upon 
the  point  of  breaking  out  between  the  Nottoway  and  a  tribe 
of  the  Tuscarora  Indians,  on  account  of  a  murder  that  had 
been  committed  upon  the  former  by  one  of  the  latter  nation; 
they  were  both  of  them  in  alliance  with  the  English,  and  as 
the  war  raged  at  that  time  with  incredible  fury  upon  the 
frontiers,  it  was  of  great  moment  to  prevent  a  rupture;  and, 
if  possible,  to  reconcile  the  differences  between  them.  For 
this  purpose  frequent  conferences  had  been  held  by  the 
Lieutenant  Governor  of  Virginia  with  the  chiefs  of  the 
Nottoway  nation,  and  several  talks  and  negotiations  had 
passed  between  them.  The  business  was  not  entirely  con- 
cluded when  I  arrived  at  Williamsburg;  and  very  soon  after 
a  party  of  Indians  arrived  from  the  Nottoway  country, 
which  borders  upon  North  Carolina,  on  the  same  errand. 
Amongst  those  who  composed  the  train  was  a  warrior, 
named  Captain  Charles;  and  as  he  was  the  principal  per- 


Travels    Through   North   America 

sonage  entrusted  by  his  nation  with  the  commission,  I  en- 
deavoured to  form  an  acquaintance  with  him,  and  to  in- 
sinuate myself  into  his  good  opinion;  with  this  view  I  in- 
vited him  to  my  apartment,  and  by  showing  him  some  little 
civility  I  so  far  succeeded,  that  he  expressed  himself  sen- 
sible of  my  attention,  and  promised  when  he  next  came  to 
Williamsburg,  which,  he  said,  if  his  nation  approved  of  his 
mission,  he  should  do  very  shortly,  he  would  bring  me  some 
present  as  a  token  of  his  acknowledgment  and  remem- 
brance. Accordingly  some  time  after,  walking  in  the  streets 
of  Williamsburg,  I  accidentally  met  him;  and  after  accost- 
ing and  saluting  him  in  the  usual  manner,  by  giving  him 
my  hand,  and  making  a  few  enquiries,  I  said,  "Well,  Cap- 
"  tain  Charles,  where  is  the  present  you  promised  me?" — 
He  immediately  hung  down  his  head,  and  said,  "I  have 
"  forgot  it." — I  inconsiderately  replied,  "It  does  not  much 
"  signify;  but  I  thought  an  Indian  never  forgot  his  promise." 
After  this  we  separated,  and  I  thought  no  more  of  the  trans- 
action; but  in  the  afternoon  information  was  brought  to 
the  Lieutenant  Governor,  that  the  Indians  had  suddenly 
disappeared,  without  having  received  the  presents  intended 
for  them  by  government;  and  that  it  was  feared  they  had 
gone  away  in  disgust,  and  that  the  negotiation  would 
have  an  unfortunate  issue.  Two  or  three  days  passed 
under  these  alarming  circumstances.  At  length,  however, 
they  returned,  increased  in  number,  and  generally  laden 
with  presents,  or  curiosities  intended  for  sale.  It  then  ap- 
peared that  Captain  Charles,  stung  with  my  reproach,  had 
gone  back  to  the  Nottoway  country;  or,  which  is  more 
likely,  as  he  was  absent  only  two  or  three  days,  into  the 


Appendix,   N°  J 

swamps   or  woods,   to   fetch   the   articles   which   he   had 
promised  me. 

The  other  anecdote  is  of  a  much  more  interesting  and 
more  striking  nature.  About  the  year  1756,  Col.  Peter 
Randolph,  Col.  Byrd,  Mr.  Campbell,  and  other  persons, 
were  sent  upon  an  embassy  by  the  Governor  of  Virginia  to 
the  Cherokee  country,  in  order,  if  possible,  to  cement  more 
strongly  the  friendship  and  alliance  which  subsisted  at  that 
time  between  our  colonies  and  those  savages,  and  to  en- 
gage them  more  heartily  in  our  cause.  The  business  was 
in  train,  and  likely  to  succeed,  when  unfortunately  the 
following  most  flagrant  and  atrocious  act  of  treachery  im- 
mediately put  an  end  to  the  negotiation,  and  eventually 
involved  us  in  a  new  and  bloody  war  with  the  very  nation 
whose  friendship  and  aid  it  was  the  object  of  the  mission  to 
cement  and  make  more  firm  and  lasting.  The  reader 
should  be  informed,  that  the  cruel  depredations  and  ravages 
committed  by  the  Indians  after  General  Braddock's  defeat, 
had  induced  government  to  offer  a  considerable  premium 
for  every  scalp  of  a  hostile  Indian,  that  should  be  brought 
in  by  any  of  our  rangers :  this  unfortunately  opened  a  door, 
and  gave  occasion  to  many  acts  of  enormity;  for  some  of 
the  back-settlers,  men  of  bad  lives  and  worse  principles, 
tempted  by  the  reward,  insidiously  massacred  several  of 
our  friendly  Indians,  and  afterwards  endeavoured  to  de- 
fraud government  of  the  reward,  by  pretending  that  they 
were  the  scalps  of  hostile  tribes.  Amongst  others,  a  back- 
settler  in  Augusta  county,  a  captain  of  militia,  whose  name 
ought  to  be  delivered  down  to  posterity  with  infamy, 
treacherously  murdered  some  Cherokee  Indians,  who  had 
been  out  upon  a  military  expedition  in  our  behalf  against 

[193] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

the  French,  under  a  pretence  that  they  had  pilfered  some 
of  his  poultry.  He  had  received  and  entertained  them  as 
friends;  and  when  they  took  leave  of  him  to  return  to  their 
own  country,  he  placed  a  party  in  ambush,  murdered 
several  of  the  poor  unsuspecting  Cherokees,  and  then  en- 
deavoured to  defraud  government,  by  claiming  the  pre- 
mium assigned  for  the  scalps  of  hostile  Indians.  A  few  of 
those  who  escaped  the  massacre  arrived  at  the  Cherokee 
town  with  the  news  of  this  horrid  transaction,  just  at  the 
moment  when  the  embassy  was  upon  the  point  of  conclud- 
ing a  very  advantageous  treaty:  a  violent  ferment  imme- 
diately took  place,  and  the  Cherokees,  in  the  utmost  rage, 
assembled  from  every  quarter,  to  take  instant  revenge  by 
putting  all  the  embassadors  to  death. 

Attakulla  Kulla,  or  the  Little  Carpenter,  a  steady  friend 
of  the  English,  hastened  to  the  ambassadors,  apprised  them 
of  their  danger,  and  recommended  to  them  to  conceal  or  bar- 
ricade themselves  as  well  as  they  could,  and  not  to  appear 
abroad  on  any  account.  He  then  assembled  his  nation, 
over  whom  he  possessed  great  influence,  in  the  council- 
room;  inveighed  bitterly  against  the  treachery  of  the  Eng- 
lish; advised  an  immediate  war  to  revenge  the  injury;  and 
never  to  lay  down  the  hatchet,  till  they  had  obtained  full 
compensation  and  atonement  for  the  blood  of  their  country- 
men. "Let  us  not,  however,"  said  he,  "violate  our  faith, 
"or  the  laws  of  hospitality,  by  imbruing  our  hands  in  the 
"blood  of  those  who  are  now  in  our  power;  they  came  to 
"us  in  the  confidence  of  friendship,  with  belts  of  wampum 
"to  cement  a  perpetual  alliance  with  us.  Let  us  carry 
"them  back  to  their  own  settlements;  conduct  them  safely 
"within  their  confines;  and  then  take  up  the  hatchet,  and 

[194] 


Appendix^  N°  J 

"endeavour  to  exterminate  the  whole  race  of  them."  They 
accordingly  adopted  this  counsel;  they  conducted  the  am- 
bassadors safe  to  the  confines;  and  as  they  could  not  obtain 
satisfaction  for  the  murder,  by  having  the  offender  de- 
livered up  to  them,  which  they  demanded,  and  which  ought 
to  have  been  done,  a  dreadful  war  ensued,  in  which  the  dif- 
ferent tribes  of  the  Cherokee  nation  became  gradually  in- 
volved; and  which  did  not  cease,  or  relax  from  its  horrors, 
till  terminated  by  Col.  Grant  in  the  year  1761,  with  still 
more  horrid  circumstances  than  any  that  had  been  exer- 
cised during  the  carrying  of  it  on. 

This  account  was  communicated  to  me  by  one  of  the 
gentlemen  engaged  in  the  embassy. 

Mr.  Jefferson,  in  his  History  of  Virginia,  page  99,  has 
related  the  following  circumstance,  that  occurred  during 
this  awful  and  interesting  transaction.  Speaking  of  the 
strict  observance  and  fidelity  of  Indians  in  regard  to  their 
promises  and  attachments,  he  says,  in  a  note:  "A  remark- 
"able  instance  of  this,  appeared  in  the  case  of  the  late  Col. 
"Byrd,  who  was  sent  to  the  Cherokee  nation  to  transact 
"some  business  writh  them.  It  happened  that  some  of  our 
"disorderly  people  had  killed  one  or  two  of  that  nation; 
"it  was  therefore  proposed  in  council  that  Col.  Byrd 
"should  be  put  to  death,  in  revenge  for  the  loss  of  their 
"countrymen.  Among  them  was  a  chief  called  Silouee, 
"who  on  some  former  occasion  had  contracted  an  acquaint- 
"ance  and  friendship  with  Col.  Byrd;  he  came  to  him  every 
"night  in  his  tent,  and  told  him  not  to  be  afraid,  they  should 
"not  kill  him.  After  many  days  deliberation,  however, 
"the  determination  was,  contrary  to  Silouee's  expectation, 
"that  Byrd  should  be  put  to  death,  and  some  warriors  were 

[195] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

"dispatched  as  executioners.  Silouee  attended  them,  and 
"when  they  entered  the  tent,  he  threw  himself  between 
"them  and  Byrd,  and  said  to  the  warriors,  This  man  is  my 
"friend,  before  you  get  at  him  you  must  kill  me: — on  which 
"they  returned,  and  the  council  respected  the  principle  so 
"  much  as  to  recede  from  their  determination." 


APPENDIX,    N°    4. 

THOMAS  LORD  FAIRFAX,  descended  from  a  very 
ancient  family  in  Yorkshire,  was  born  towards  the 
latter  end  of  the  last  century;  I  believe  about  the  year  1691. 
He  was  the  eldest  son  of  Thomas  fifth  Lord  Fairfax,  of 
Cameron,  in  the  kingdom  of  Scotland,  by  Catherine,  only 
daughter  and  heiress  of  Thomas  Lord  Culpepper;  in  whose 
right  he  afterwards  possessed  Leeds  Castle,  with  several 
manors  and  estates  in  the  county  of  Kent,  and  in  the  Isle 
of  Wight;  and  that  immense  tract  of  country,  comprised 
within  the  boundaries  of  the  rivers  Potowmac  and  Rappa- 
hannoc  in  Virginia,  called  the  Northern  Neck;  containing 
by  estimation  five  millions  seven  hundred  thousand  acres. 

Lord  Fairfax  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  his  father  while 
young:  and  at  his  decease  he  and  his  two  brothers,  Henry 
and  Robert,  and  four  sisters,  one  of  whom,  named  Frances, 
was  afterwards  married  to  Denny  Martin,  Esq.,  of  Loose,  in 
Kent,  came  under  the  guardianship  of  their  mother  and 
grandmother,  the  dowager  Ladies  Fairfax  and  Culpepper; 
the  latter  of  whom  was  a  princess  of  the  house  of  Hesse 
Cassel. 

Lord  Fairfax,  at  the  usual  age,  was  sent  to  the  university 
of  Oxford  to  complete  his  education;  and  was  highly 
esteemed  there  for  his  learning  and  accomplishments.  His 
judgment  upon  literary  subjects  was  then,  and  at  other 
times,  frequently  appealed  to;  and  he  was  one  of  the  writers 

[197] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

of  that  incomparable  work,  the  Spectator.  After  some 
years  residence  in  the  university,  he  took  a  commission 
in  the  regiment  of  horse,  called  the  Blues,  and  remained  in 
it,  I  believe,  till  the  death  of  the  survivor  of  the  two  ladies 
above  mentioned;  who  had  usually  resided  at  Leeds  Castle. 
Some  time  before  their  decease,  a  circumstance  happened, 
that  eventually  occasioned  him  much  serious  chagrin  and 
uneasiness.  He  had  been  persuaded,  upon  his  brother 
Henry's  arriving  at  the  age  of  twenty-one  years,  or  rather 
compelled  by  the  ladies  Culpepper  and  Fairfax,  under  a 
menace,  in  case  of  refusal,  of  never  inheriting  the  Northern 
Neck,  to  cut  off  the  entail,  and  to  sell  Denton  Hall,  and  the 
Yorkshire  estates,  belonging  to  this  branch  of  the  Fairfax 
family,  which  had  been  in  their  possession  for  five  or  six 
centuries,  in  order  to  redeem  those  of  the  late  Lord 
Culpepper,  that  had  descended  to  his  heiress,  exceedingly 
encumbered,  and  deeply  mortgaged.  This  circumstance  hap- 
pened while  Lord  Fairfax  was  at  Oxford,  and  is  said  to 
have  occasioned  him  the  greater  vexation,  as  it  appeared 
afterwards,  that  the  estates  had  been  disposed  of,  through 
the  treachery  of  a  steward,  for  considerably  less  than  their 
value;  less  even  than  what  the  timber  that  was  cut  down  to 
discharge  the  purchase  money,  before  the  stipulated  day 
of  payment  came,  was  sold  for.  He  conceived  a  violent 
disgust  against  the  ladies,  who,  as  he  used  to  say,  had 
treated  him  with  such  unparalleled  cruelty;  and  ever  after- 
wards expressed  the  keenest  sense  of  the  injury  that  had 
been  done,  as  he  thought,  to  the  Fairfax  family.  After  en- 
tering into  possession,  he  began  to  inquire  into  the  value 
and  situation  of  his  estates;  and  he  soon  discovered  that  the 
proprietary  lands  in  Virginia,  had  been  extremely  mis- 


Appendix,   N°  4 


managed  and  under-let.  An  agent,  who  at  the  same  time 
was  a  tenant,  had  been  employed  by  the  dowager  Lady 
Fairfax,  to  superintend  her  concerns  in  that  quarter  of  the 
world;  and  he  is  said  to  have  abused  her  confidence,  and  to 
have  enriched  himself  and  family,  as  is  too  frequently  the 
case,  at  the  expense  of  his  employer.  Lord  Fairfax  there- 
fore wrote  to  William  Fairfax,  Esq.,  his  father's  brother's 
second  son,  who  held,  at  that  time,  a  place  of  considerable 
trust  and  emolument  under  government  in  New  England; 
requesting  him  to  remove  to  Virginia,  and  to  take  upon 
himself  the  agency  of  the  Northern  Neck.  With  this  re- 
quest Mr.  Fairfax  readily  complied;  and,  as  soon  as  he  con- 
veniently could,  he  removed  with  his  family  to  Virginia, 
and  settled  in  Westmoreland  county.  He  there  opened 
an  agency  office  for  the  granting  of  the  proprietary  lands; 
and  as  the  quit-rent  demanded  was  only  after  the  rate  of 
two  shillings  for  every  hundred  acres,  the  vacant  lands  were 
rapidly  let,  and  a  considerable  and  permanent  income  was 
soon  derived  from  them.  Lord  Fairfax,  informed  of  these 
circumstances,  determined  to  go  himself  to  Virginia,  to 
visit  his  estates,  and  the  friend  and  relation  to  whom  he  was 
so  greatly  obliged.  Accordingly,  about  the  year  1739,  he 
embarked  for  that  continent;  and  on  his  arrival  in  Virginia, 
he  went  and  spent  twelve  months  with  his  friend  Mr.  Fair- 
fax, at  his  house  in  Westmoreland  county;  during  which 
time  he  became  so  captivated  with  the  climate,  the  beauties 
and  produce  of  the  country,  that  he  formed  a  resolution  of 
returning  to  England,  in  order  to  prosecute  a  suit,  which 
he  had  with  the  Crown,  on  account  of  a  considerable  tract 
of  land  claimed  in  behalf  of  the  latter  by  Governor  Gooch; 
(which  suit  was  afterwards  determined  in  his  favour;)  and, 


Travels    Through   North   America 

after  making  some  necessary  arrangements,  and  settling 
his  family  affairs,  to  return  to  Virginia,  and  spend  the  re- 
mainder of  his  life  upon  his  vast  and  noble  domain  there. 
I  am  not  certain  in  what  year  this  happened,  or  how  long 
Lord  Fairfax  remained  in  England.  He  was  present  at 
his  brother  Robert's  first  marriage,  which,  according  to 
Mr.  Hasted,  [see  Hist,  of  Kent,  vol.  II.  page  478.]  took 
place  in  the  year  1741;  for  he  frequently  mentioned  the 
fatigue  he  underwent  in  sitting  up  for  a  month  together, 
full  dressed  and  in  form  to  receive  visits  upon  that  occasion: 
nor  did  he  go  back  to  Virginia  before  the  year  1745,  be- 
cause, when  he  arrived  there,  Mr.  William  Fairfax  had 
removed  out  of  Westmoreland  into  Fairfax  county,  to  a  beau- 
tiful house  which  he  had  built  upon  the  banks  of  the  Potow- 
mac,  a  little  below  Mount  Vernon,  called  Belvoir;  which  he 
did  not  do  previous  to  that  time.  In  all  probability  there- 
fore, Lord  Fairfax  first  went  to  America  about  the  year 
1739,  returned  to  England  the  year  following,  and  finally 
settled  in  the  Northern  Neck  in  1746,  or  1747.  On  his  re- 
turn he  went  to  Belvoir,  the  seat  of  his  friend  and  relation 
Mr.  William  Fairfax,  and  remained  several  years  in  his 
family,  undertaking  and  directing  the  management  of  his 
farms  and  plantations,  and  amusing  himself  with  hunting, 
and  the  pleasures  of  the  field.  At  length,  the  lands  about 
Belvoir  not  answering  his  expectation,  and  the  foxes  be- 
coming less  numerous,  he  determined  to  remove  to  a  fine 
tract  of  land  on  the  western  side  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  or  Apa- 
lachian  mountains,  in  Frederic  county,  about  eighty  miles 
from  Belvoir;  where  he  built  a  small  neat  house,  which  he 
called  Greenway  Court;  and  laid  out  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful farms,  consisting  of  arable  and  grazing  lands,  and  of 

[200] 


Appendix,  N°    4 


meadows  two  or  three  miles  in  length,  that  had  ever  been 
seen  in  that  quarter  of  the  world.  He  there  lived  the  re- 
mainder of  his  life,  in  the  style  of  a  gentleman  farmer;  or,  I 
should  rather  have  said,  of  an  English  country  gentleman. 
He  kept  many  servants,  white  and  black;  several  hunters; 
a  plentiful  but  plain  table,  entirely  in  the  English  fashion; 
and  his  mansion  was  the  mansion  of  hospitality.  His 
dress  corresponded  with  his  mode  of  life,  and,  notwithstand- 
ing he  had  every  year  new  suits  of  clothes,  of  the  most 
fashionable  and  expensive  kind,  sent  out  to  him  from  Eng- 
land, which  he  never  put  on,  was  plain  in  the  extreme.  His 
manners  were  humble,  modest,  and  unaffected;  not  tinctured 
in  the  smallest  degree  with  arrogance,  pride,  or  self-conceit. 
He  was  free  from  the  selfish  passions,  and  liberal  almost 
to  excess.  The  produce  of  his  farms,  after  the  deduction 
of  what  was  necessary  for  the  consumption  of  his  own 
family,  was  distributed  and  given  away  to  the  poor  planters 
and  settlers  in  his  neighborhood.  To  these  he  frequently 
advanced  money,  to  enable  them  to  go  on  with  their  im- 
provements; to  clear  away  the  woods,  and  cultivate  the 
ground;  and  where  the  lands  proved  unfavourable,  and  not 
likely  to  answer  the  labour  and  expectation  of  the  planter 
or  husbandman,  he  usually  indemnified  him  for  the  ex- 
pense he  had  been  at  in  the  attempt,  and  gratuitously 
granted  him  fresh  lands  of  a  more  favourable  and  promis- 
ing nature.  He  was  a  friend  and  a  father  to  all  who  held 
and  lived  under  him;  and  as  the  great  object  of  his  ambi- 
tion was  the  peopling  and  cultivating  of  that  fine  and  beau- 
tiful country,  of  which  he  was  the  proprietor,  he  sacrificed 
every  other  pursuit,  and  made  every  other  consideration 
subordinate,  to  this  great  point. 

[201] 


Travels    Through    North   America 

Lord  Fairfax  had  been  brought  up  in  revolution  prin- 
ciples, and  had  early  imbibed  high  notions  of  liberty,  and  of 
the  excellence  of  the  British  constitution.  He  devoted  a 
considerable  part  of  his  time  to  the  public  service.  He  was 
Lord  Lieutenant  and  Gustos  Rotulorum  of  the  county  of 
Frederic,  presided  at  the  county  courts  held  at  Winchester, 
where  during  the  sessions  he  always  kept  open  table;  and 
acted  as  surveyor  and  overseer  of  the  highways  and  public 
roads.  His  chief  if  not  sole  amusement  was  hunting;  and 
in  pursuit  of  this  exercise  he  frequently  carried  his  hounds  to 
distant  parts  of  the  country;  and  entertained  every  gentle- 
man of  good  character  and  decent  appearance,  who  at- 
tended him  in  the  field,  at  the  inn  or  ordinary,  where  he 
took  up  his  residence  for  the  hunting  season.  So  unex- 
ceptionable and  disinterested  was  his  behaviour,  both 
public  and  private,  and  so  generally  was  he  beloved  and  re- 
spected, that  during  the  late  contest  between  Great  Britain 
and  America,  he  never  met  with  the  least  insult  or  molesta- 
tion from  either  party,  but  was  suffered  to  go  on  in  his  im- 
provement and  cultivation  of  the  Northern  Neck;  a  pursuit 
equally  calculated  for  the  comfort  and  happiness  of  in- 
dividuals, and  for  the  general  good  of  mankind. 

In  the  year  1751,  Thomas  Martin,  Esq.,  second  son  of 
his  sister  Frances,  came  over  to  Virginia  to  live  with  his 
lordship;  and  a  circumstance  happened,  a  few  years  after 
his  arrival,  too  characteristic  of  Lord  Fairfax  not  to  be  re- 
corded. After  General  Braddock's  defeat  in  the  year  1755, 
the  Indians  in  the  interest  of  the  French,  committed  the 
most  dreadful  massacres  upon  all  our  back  settlements. 
Their  incursions  were  everywhere  stained  with  blood;  and 
slaughter  and  devastation  marked  the  inroads  of  these  cruel 

[202] 


Appendix,  N°  4 


and  merciless  savages.  Every  planter  of  name  or  reputa- 
tion became  an  object  of  their  insidious  designs;  and  as 
Lord  Fairfax  had  been  pointed  out  to  them  as  a  captain  or 
chief  of  great  renown,  the  possession  of  his  scalp  became  an 
object  of  their  sanguinary  ambition,  and  what  they  would 
have  regarded  as  a  trophy  of  inestimable  value.  With  this 
view  they  made  daily  inroads  into  the  vicinage  of  Greenway 
Court;  and  it  is  said,  that  not  less  than  3,000  lives  fell  sacri- 
fices to  their  cruel  barbarity  between  the  Appalachian  and 
Allegheny  mountains.*  The  most  serious  apprehensions 
were  entertained  for  the  safety  of  Lord  Fairfax  and  the 
family  at  Greenway  Court.  In  this  crisis  of  danger  his 
lordship,  importuned  by  his  friends  and  the  principal  gentry 
of  the  colony  to  retire  to  the  inner  settlements  for  security, 
is  said  to  have  addressed  his  nephew,  who  now  bore  the 
commission  of  colonel  of  militia,  nearly  in  the  following 

*  It  was  at  this  crisis  that  the  gentlemen  of  Virginia  associated 
themselves  under  the  command  of  Peyton  Randolph,  Esq.,  after- 
wards President  of  the  first  Congress,  for  the  protection  of  the 
frontiers.  The  dismay  occasioned  by  the  ravages  of  the  Indians 
was  indescribable.  Upon  one  day  in  particular  an  universal  panic 
ran  like  wildfire  through  every  part  of  Virginia;  rumour  report- 
ing that  the  Indians  had  passed  the  mountains,  were  entering 
Williamsburg,  and  indeed  every  other  town  at  the  same  moment, 
had  scalped  all  who  came  in  their  way,  and  that  nothing  but  im- 
mediate flight  could  save  the  wretched  inhabitants  from  destruc- 
tion. All  was  hurry  and  confusion,  every  one  endeavouring  to 
escape  death  by  flying  from  his  own  to  some  other  town  or  planta- 
tion, where  the  alarm  and  consternation  were  equally  great.  At 
length  certain  information  was  brought,  that  the  Indians  were  still 
beyond  the  mountains  at  least  150  miles  off:  and  then,  every  one 
began  to  wonder,  as  they  did  in  London  after  the  panic  during  the 
rebellion  of  1745,  how  it  was  possible  that  such  an  alarm  could 
have  arisen;  or  whence  it  could  have  originated. 


Travels    Through   North   America 

manner: — "Colonel  Martin,  the  danger  we  are  exposed  to, 
"which  is  undoubtedly  great,  may  possibly  excite  in  your 
"mind  apprehension  and  anxiety.  If  so,  I  am  ready  to 
"take  any  step  that  you  may  judge  expedient  for  our  com- 
"mon  safety.  I  myself  am  an  old  man,  and  it  is  of  little 
"importance  whether  I  fall  by  the  tomahawk  of  an  Indian 
"or  by  disease  and  old  age:  but  you  are  young,  and,  it  is  to 
"be  hoped,  may  have  many  years  before  you.  I  will  there- 
fore submit  it  to  your  decision,  whether  we  shall  remain 
"where  we  are,  taking  every  precaution  to  secure  ourselves 
"against  the  outrages  of  the  enemy;  or  abandon  our  habi- 
tation and  retire  within  the  mountains,  that  we  may  be 
"sheltered  from  the  danger  to  which  we  are  at  present 
"exposed.  If  we  determine  to  remain,  it  is  possible,  not- 
"withstanding  our  utmost  care  and  vigilance,  that  we  may 
"both  fall  victims;  if  we  retire,  the  whole  district  will  im- 
" mediately  break  up;  and  all  the  trouble  and  solicitude 
"which  I  have  undergone  to  settle  this  fine  country  will  be 
"frustrated;  and  the  occasion  perhaps  irrecoverably  lost." 
Colonel  Martin,  after  a  short  deliberation,  determined  to 
remain,  and  as  our  affairs  in  that  quarter  soon  took  a  more 
favourable  turn,  and  measures  were  adopted  by  govern- 
ment for  securing  our  settlements  against  the  carnage  and 
depredation  of  the  Indians,  the  danger  gradually  diminished, 
and  at  length  entirely  disappeared.  From  that  time  to  the 
present  little  or  no  molestation  has  been  given  to  the  back 
settlements  of  the  Northern  Neck,  extending  from  the 
Appalachian  to  the  Allegheny  mountains. 

Lord  Fairfax,  though  possessed  of  innumerable  good 
qualities,  had  some  few  singularities  in  his  character,  that 
occasionally  exposed  him  to  the  smiles  of  the  ignorant:  but 

[204] 


Appendix,   N°   4 


they  resembled  the  solar  spots,  which  can  scarcely  be  said 
to  diminish  the  splendor  of  that  bright  luminary  upon 
whose  disk  they  appear.  Early  in  life  he  had  formed  an 
attachment  to  a  young  lady  of  quality;  and  matters  had 
proceeded  so  far,  as  to  induce  him  to  provide  carriages, 
clothes,  servants,  and  other  necessary  appendages  for  such 
an  occasion.  Unfortunately,  or  rather  let  me  say  for- 
tunately, before  the  contract  was  sealed,  a  more  advan- 
tageous or  dazzling  offer  was  made  to  the  lady,  who  thought 
herself  at  liberty  to  accept  it;  and  she  preferred  the  higher 
honour  of  being  a  duchess  to  the  inferior  station  of  a 
baroness.  This  disappointment  is  thought  to  have  made 
a  deep  impression  upon  Lord  Fairfax's  mind;  and  to  have 
had  no  inconsiderable  share  in  determining  him  to  retire 
from  the  world,  and  to  settle  in  the  wild  and  at  that  time 
almost  uninhabited  forests  of  North  America.  It  is  thought 
also  to  have  excited  in  him  a  general  dislike  of  the  sex;  in 
whose  company,  unless  he  was  particularly  acquainted  with 
the  parties,  it  is  said  he  was  reserved  and  under  evident 
constraint  and  embarrassment.  But  I  was  present,  when, 
upon  a  visit  of  ceremony  to  Lieutenant  Governor  Fauquier, 
who  had  lately  arrived  from  England,  he  was  introduced  to 
his  lady,  and  nothing  of  the  kind  appeared  to  justify  the 
observation.  He  remained  at  the  palace  three  or  four 
days;  and  during  that  time  his  behaviour  was  courteous, 
polite,  and  becoming  a  man  of  fashion.  He  possibly  might 
not  entertain  a  very  favourable  opinion  of  the  sex;  owing 
partly  to  the  above  mentioned  circumstance,  and  partly  to 
the  treatment  he  had  experienced  from  the  ladies  of  Leeds 
Castle;  but  this  does  not  seem  to  have  influenced  his  gen- 
eral behaviour  in  regard  to  them.  He  had  lived  many 

[205] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

years  retired  from  the  world,  in  a  remote  wilderness,  se- 
questered from  all  polished  society;  and  perhaps  might  not 
feel  himself  perfectly  at  ease,  when  he  came  into  large 
parties  of  ladies,  where  ceremony  and  form  were  to  be  ob- 
served; but  he  had  not  forgot  those  accomplished  manners 
which  he  had  acquired  in  his  early  youth;  at  Leeds  Castle, 
at  the  university,  and  in  the  army.  His  motive  for  settling 
in  America  was  of  the  most  noble  and  heroic  kind.  It  was, 
as  he  always  himself  declared,  to  settle  and  cultivate  that 
beautiful  and  immense  tract  of  country,  of  which  he  was  the 
proprietor;  and  in  this  he  succeeded  beyond  his  most  san- 
guine expectations,  for  the  Northern  Neck  was  better 
peopled,  better  cultivated,  and  more  improved,  than  any 
other  part  of  the  dominion  of  Virginia.  Lord  Fairfax  lived 
to  extreme  old  age  at  Greenway  Court,  universally  beloved, 
and  died  as  universally  lamented,  in  January  or  February 
1782,  in  the  Q2d  year  of  his  age.  He  was  buried  I  believe 
at  Winchester,  where  he  had  so  often  and  so  honourably 
presided  as  judge  of  the  court.  He  bequeathed  Greenway 
Court  to  his  nephew  Colonel  Martin,  who  has  since  con- 
stantly resided  there;  and  his  barony  descended  to  his  only 
surviving  brother  Robert  Fairfax,  to  whom  he  had  before 
consigned  Leeds  Castle,  and  his  other  English  estates. 

Robert,  seventh  Lord  Fairfax,  died  at  Leeds  Castle  in 
1791,  and  bequeathed  that  noble  mansion,  and  its  appen- 
dages, to  his  nephew  the  reverend  Denny  Martin,  who  has 
since  taken  the  name  of  Fairfax,  and  is  still  living. 

The  barony  or  title  by  regular  descent  is  vested  in  Brian 
Fairfax,  third  son  of  William  Fairfax  above  mentioned, 
who  lives  in  Virginia;  and  of  whom  more  will  be  said  in  the 
sequel. 

[206] 


Appendix,   N°   4 


Having  so  frequently  mentioned  William  Fairfax,  Esquire, 
who  came  from  New  England,  to  take  upon  himself  the 
agency  of  the  Northern  Neck,  it  may  not  be  unacceptable 
to  the  reader,  to  learn  something  of  the  history  of  that 
worthy  and  respectable  gentleman;  and  of  the  several 
branches  of  the  Fairfax  family  descended  from  him,  who 
are  now  settled  in  Virginia.  William  Fairfax,  was  the 
second  son  of  the  honourable  Henry  Fairfax  of  Towlston 
Hall,  in  Yorkshire.  This  gentleman's  father  Henry,  fourth 
Lord  Fairfax,  left,  besides  other  children,  two  sons,  viz. 
Thomas,  who  succeeded  him  in  the  barony,  and  who 
married  the  heiress  of  the  Culpepper  family;  and  Henry, 
father  of  William,  of  whom  I  am  now  speaking.  William, 
his  father  dying  while  he  was  young,  was  educated  under 
the  auspices  of  his  uncle  and  godfather,  the  good  Lord  Lons- 
dale,  at  Lowther  school,  in  Westmoreland;  where  he  ac- 
quired a  competent  knowledge,  not  only  of  the  classics,  but 
of  the  modern  languages.  At  the  age  of  twenty-one  he 
entered  into  the  army,  and  served  in  Spain  during  Queen 
Anne's  war,  under  his  uncle  Colonel  Martin  Bladen,  to 
whom  he  was  also  secretary.  At  the  conclusion  of  that  war, 
he  was  prevailed  upon  to  accompany  captain  Fairfax  of 
the  navy,  who  was  also  his  relation,  and  other  godfather, 
to  the  East  Indies;  but  the  sea  not  agreeing  with  him,  he  at 
his  return  took  a  second  commission  in  the  army,  and  went 
upon  the  expedition  against  the  Island  of  Providence,  at 
that  time  in  possession  of  pirates.  After  the  reduction  of 
the  island,  he  was  appointed  governor  of  it,  and  he  there 
married,  March  the  27th,  1723-4,  Sarah,  daughter  of 
Major  Thomas  Walker,  who,  with  his  family  had  accom- 
panied the  expedition,  and  was  afterwards  appointed  chief 

[207] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

justice  of  the  Bahama  Islands.  By  this  lady  he  had  a  son, 
born  the  2d  of  January  following,  whom  he  named  George 
William.  His  health  suffering  extremely  at  this  place, 
from  the  intense  heat  of  the  climate,  he  applied  to  govern- 
ment for  an  appointment  in  New  England,  and  he  had 
removed  to  that  country,  and  was  there  resident,  when  solic- 
ited by  Lord  Fairfax,  to  take  upon  himself  the  agency  of 
the  Northern  Neck.  During  his  abode  in  New  England, 
he  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  his  lady,  by  whom  he  had  two 
sons  and  two  daughters:  George  William,  mentioned  above, 
who  was  born  in  the  Island  of  Providence;  and  Thomas, 
Anne  and  Sarah,  born  in  New  England. 

Mrs.  Fairfax,  upon  her  death-bed,  requested  her  hus- 
band, after  her  decease,  to  marry  a  Miss  Deborah  Clarke 
of  Salem,  a  lady  of  uncommon  understanding,  and  her 
most  intimate  friend;  from  a  conviction,  which  appeared 
to  be  well  founded,  that  she  would  prove  a  kind  step-mother, 
and  faithful  guardian  to  her  orphan  children.  Accord- 
ingly Mr.  Fairfax,  in  compliance  with  this  request,  some 
little  time  before  he  removed  to  Virginia,  espoused  this  lady, 
and  by  her  had  three  other  children,  viz.  two  sons  and  a 
daughter,  named  Brian,  William,  and  Hannah;  so  that  he 
had  in  the  whole  seven  children,  four  sons  and  three 
daughters,  most  of  whom  survived  him.  He  departed  this 
life  at  Belvoir,  the  3d  day  of  September  1757,  aged  sixty- 
six  years.  Mr.  William  Fairfax  was  a  gentleman  of  very 
fine  accomplishments,  and  general  good  character.  He 
was  a  kind  husband,  an  indulgent  parent,  a  faithful  friend, 
a  sincere  Christian;  and  was  eminently  distinguished  for 
his  private  and  public  virtues.  Through  the  interest  of  two 
of  his  relations,  Brian  and  Ferdinando  Fairfax,  who  lived 

[208] 


Appendix,   N°   4 


in  London,  and  of  whom  the  former  was  a  commissioner  of 
the  excise,  he  had  been  appointed  Lord  Lieutenant  and 
Gustos  Rotulorum  of  the  county  of  Fairfax,  collector  of  the 
customs  of  South  Potomac,  and  one  of  his  majesty's 
council;  of  which,  in  process  of  time,  he  became  president, 
and  continued  in  that  honourable  station  many  years.  He 
was  succeeded  in  his  estate  and  employments  by  his  eldest 
son,  George  William  Fairfax.  George  William,  at  an  early 
age,  had  been  sent  to  England  for  education,  and  had  been 
brought  up  in  the  same  principles  which  had  been  professed 
by  Lord  Fairfax,  and  the  rest  of  the  family.  At  his  return  to 
Virginia,  he  married  Sarah,  daughter  of  Colonel  Cary,  of 
Hampton,  upon  James  river,  of  the  family  of  Hunsdon; 
and  usually  resided  at  his  beautiful  place  at  Belvoir,  ex- 
cept during  the  sessions  of  the  assembly  and  of  the  general 
courts,  when  his  duty,  as  one  of  his  majesty's  council, 
obliged  him  to  be  at  Williamsburg. 

In  the  year  1773,  some  estates  in  Yorkshire  having  de- 
volved to  him  by  the  death  of  Henry,  his  father's  elder 
brother,  he  found  it  necessary  to  go  to  England  to  take 
possession  of  them.  So  critical  was  his  arrival,  that  he 
passed  in  the  river  Thames  the  ill-omened  tea,  which 
eventually  occasioned  the  separation  of  the  American  colo- 
nies from  the  mother-country.  During  the  ten  years  contest, 
the  consequences  of  which  Mr.  Fairfax  early  foresaw  and 
lamented,  his  estates  in  Virginia  were  sequestered,  and  he 
received  no  remittances  from  his  extensive  property  in  that 
quarter  of  the  world.  This  induced  him  to  remove  out  of 
Yorkshire,  from  a  house  which  he  had  recently  furnished, 
to  lay  down  his  carriages,  and  to  retire  to  Bath,  where  he 
lived  in  a  private  but  genteel  manner;  and  confined  his  ex- 

[209] 


Travels   Through  North   America 

penses  so  much  within  the  income  of  his  English  estates, 
that  he  was  able  occasionally  to  send  large  sums  to  the 
government  agent,  for  the  use  and  benefit  of  the  American 
prisoners.  He  died  at  Bath,  generally  lamented  on  account 
of  his  many  virtues  and  accomplishments,  on  the  3d  of 
April  1787,  in  the  sixty-third  year  of  his  age;  and  was  buried 
in  Writhlington  church,  in  the  county  of  Somerset,  a  few 
miles  distant  from  that  city.  He  left  a  widow,  a  very 
amiable  lady,  of  distinguished  merit,  in  great  affluence; 
who  has  ever  since  resided  in  Bath.  Having  no  issue,  he 
bequeathed  his  Virginia  estates  to  Ferdinando,  the  second 
son  of  his  half-brother  Brian,  the  present  Lord  Fairfax. 

Thomas,  second  son  of  William  Fairfax,  by  Sarah  Walker, 
and  own  brother  to  the  above,  entered  into  the  navy;  and 
was  killed  in  an  action  in  the  East  Indies  on  the  26th  of 
June  1746.  He  was  esteemed  one  of  the  handsomest  men 
of  his  age.  The  following  inscription  to  his  memory  was 
written  by  his  disconsolate  father,  a  few  hours  after  he  had 
received  the  melancholy  account  of  his  death: 

"To  the  memory  of  Mr.  Thomas  Fairfax,  second  son  of 
"William  Fairfax,  Esquire;  who  died,  fighting  in  his  coun- 
try's cause,  on  board  the  Harwich  ship  of  war,  in  an  en- 
gagement with  Monsieur  Bourdenaye,  commander  of  a 
"French  squadron  on  the  Indian  coast,  the  26th  day  of 
"June  1746,  and  in  the  twenty-first  year  of  his  age;  beloved 
"of  his  commander,  Captain  Carteret,  and  highly  favoured 
"by  his  friend  Commodore  Barnet,  for  his  politeness  of 
"manners.  He  was  a  comely  personage;  of  undoubted 
"bravery;  skilled  in  the  theory  of  the  profession;  excelled 
"by  few  as  a  naval  draughtsman;  and  gave  early  promises, 
"by  a  pregnant  genius  and  diligent  application,  of  a  con- 

[2,0] 


Appendix,  N°  4 


"summate  officer  for  the  service  of  his  country.  But  the 
"wisdom  of  Heaven  is  inscrutable:  human  life  is  ever  in 
"the  hands  of  its  author:  and  while  the  good  and  brave  are 
"always  ready  for  death,  resignation  becomes  their  sur- 
"viving  friends.  Convinced  of  this  duty,  yet  subdued  by 
"the  sentiments  of  a  tender  parent,  this  tablet  was  inscribed 
"and  dedicated  by  his  sorrowful  father: 

"May,  Britain,  all  thy  sons  like  him  behave; 
"  Like  him  be  virtuous,  and  like  him  be  brave: 
"Thy  fiercest  foes  undaunted  he  withstood, 
"And  perish'd  fighting  for  his  country's  good." 

Anne,  eldest  daughter  of  William  Fairfax,  by  Sarah 
Walker,  was  married  to  Lawrence,  elder  brother  of  Colonel, 
now  General  Washington.  Lawrence,  who  had  been  edu- 
cated in  England,  was  a  captain  in  the  army,  and  possessed 
a  very  considerable  landed  property  in  Virginia.  An  in- 
fant daughter  was  the  only  fruit  of  this  marriage,  who  died 
under  seven  years  of  age.  At  her  decease,  her  father  being 
also  dead,  General  Washington  succeeded  to  Mount  Vernon, 
and  several  fine  Virginian  estates,  the  property  of  this 
branch  of  the  Washington  family.  Anne,  after  the  death 
of  Lawrence  Washington  her  husband,  married  George 
Lee,  Esquire,  the  head  of  that  numerous  family  in  Virginia; 
and  left  behind  her  three  sons,  who  are  now  living,  viz. 
George  Fairfax  Lee,  Launcelot  Lee,  and  William  Lee. 

Sarah,  second  daughter  of  William  Fairfax  by  Sarah 
Walker,  was  married  to  Mr.  Carlyle,  a  merchant  of  Alex- 
andria, in  Fairfax  county,  and  left  two  daughters;  the  eldest 
married  to  Mr.  Herbert,  a  merchant  of  the  same  place;  the 
younger  to  Mr.  Whiteing,  a  private  gentleman  of  good 

[211] 


Travels    Through   North   America 

fortune.  Mrs.  Whiteing  died  in  childbed  of  her  first  child, 
a  son,  who  is  now  living. 

Brian,  eldest  son  of  the  second  marriage  of  William  Fair- 
fax with  Deborah  Clarke,  the  present  and  eighth  baron, 
married  Elizabeth,  youngest  daughter  of  Wilson  Gary, 
Esquire,  of  the  family  above  mentioned,  and  lives  upon  his 
estate  at  a  place  called  Towlston,  in  Fairfax  county.  He 
has,  by  this  marriage,  two  sons,  viz.  Thomas  and  Ferdi- 
nando,  and  one  daughter,  named  Elizabeth,  married  to 
Mr.  Griffith,  the  son  of  an  American  bishop.  He  has  also 
a  daughter  by  a  second  marriage.  Thomas  has  been  twice 
married,  but  has  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  both  his  wives, 
precisely  at  the  same  period  of  time,  viz.  the  end  of  three 
months,  by  sickness  and  other  indisposition,  attendant  upon 
pregnancy.  Ferdinando,  heir,  as  was  above  mentioned, 
to  George  William  Fairfax,  married  a  daughter  of  Wilson 
Miles  Gary,  Esquire,  brother  to  the  widow  of  the  said 
George  William,  which  marriage  made  the  fifth  connection 
between  the  families  of  Fairfax  and  Gary,  either  in  England 
or  Virginia. 

William  Fairfax,  fourth  son  of  William  Fairfax,  and  the 
second  by  his  second  marriage,  was  educated  at  Wakefield 
school,  in  Yorkshire;  served  in  the  army,  and  was  killed  at 
the  siege  of  Quebec.  He  was  a  young  man  of  very  promis- 
ing abilities,  and  much  esteemed  by  General  Wolfe.  When 
the  general  landed,  he  saw  young  Fairfax  sitting  upon  the 
bank  of  the  river;  and  immediately  running  up  to  him,  he 
clapped  him  on  the  shoulder,  and  said,  "Young  man,  when 
"we  come  to  action,  remember  your  name."  Alas!  they 
unfortunately  both  fell  in  the  space  of  a  few  hours. 

Hannah,  youngest  child  of  William  Fairfax  by  his  second 
[212] 


Appendix,   N°  4 


marriage,  is  married  to  Warner  Washington,  eldest  son  of 
General  Washington's  father's  eldest  brother,  and  the  head 
of  that  now  illustrious  family.  She  has  two  sons  and  four 
daughters;  all,  except  the  youngest  daughter,  married  to 
persons  of  condition  and  distinction  in  Virginia. 

These  anecdotes  of  the  several  branches  of  the  Fairfax 
family,  now  domiciliated  in  Virginia,  may,  perhaps,  not  be 
unacceptable  to  the  reader,  and  especially  to  the  friends  of 
that  noble  family.  They  are,  I  believe,  correct,  and  may 
be  relied  upon.  I  received  them  from  unquestionable 
authority,  from  a  person  intimately  connected  with  the 
family;  who,  from  repeated  conversations  with  Thomas, 
late  Lord  Fairfax;  Mr.  William  Fairfax;  his  son  George 
William;  Mrs.  Mary  Sherrard,  first  cousin  to  Thomas  Lord 
Fairfax,  and  aunt  to  the  present  Earl  of  Harborough;  Lady 
Lucy  Sherrard;  and  many  noble  relatives  of  the  family  re- 
siding in  the  north  of  England;  was  well  qualified  to  give 
the  information. 


Appendix,    N°   5. 


DIARY 


OF     THE 


WEATHER. 


Travels    Through   North   America 


Fahrenheit's 
Thermometer. 

JANUARY,    1760. 

96 
85 

75 
65 

55 

45 

32 

20 
12 

Vital 

< 

Q 

il 

ws 

d 
H 

E 
H 

Q 
£ 

WEATHER. 

u 

i« 

I 
2 

3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
n 

12 
13 
H 
15 

16 

i7 
18 

i9 
20 

21 

22 

23 

24 
25 
26 

27 
28 

29 
30 

31 

8 

10 
IO 
20 
26 

34 
36 
49 
36 
23 
19 
25 
30 
25 
40 

24 
34 
34 

24 

N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 

s.w. 
s.w. 

S.  E. 

N.  E. 
N.W. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
S.  E. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
N.W. 

Quite  clear. 
Clouded. 
Snow. 
Rain  and  freezing  hard. 
A  thaw. 
A  thaw. 
Rain. 
Rain. 
Quite  clear. 
Quite  clear. 
Quite  clear. 
Quite  clear. 
Quite  clear. 
Rain. 
Quite  clear. 
Little  cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Quite  clear. 

heat. 
Very 

hot. 
Hot. 

Warm 

air. 

Temper- 
ate. 

Cold 

air. 
Frost. 

Hard 

frost. 
Frost  1740. 

Frost  1709. 

[216] 


Appendix,  N°  5 


FEBRUARY,  1760. 

I 

£s 

o  o 
E£ 

«' 

H 

a 

H 

Q 
g 

£ 

WEATHER. 

*£ 

11 

I 

2 

3 

4 

5 
6 

7 
8 

9 

10 

ii 

12 
13 
H 
15 

16 

17 
18 

19 

20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 

27 
28 

29 

8 

30 
26 
21 

31 

46 

49 
46 

49 
33 
38 

37 
28 

52 
56 
38 
35 
34 

22 
25 

34 
4i 
49 
36 
40 

45 
53 
59 
49 

42 

s.w. 

S.  E. 

N.W. 
S.  E. 
S. 
E. 
S.W. 
N.E. 
E. 
N.E. 
N. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
N. 
N. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
S.  E. 
S. 

w. 

N.W. 
S.W. 
S.  E. 

S. 

N.E. 
N.E. 
N.E. 

Sleet  and  rain. 
Quite  clear. 
Quite  clear. 
Quite  clear. 
Clouded. 
Little  clouded  

62 
62 
58 

52 

66 
70 

30 

43 
48 

64 
56 

56 
72 
76 
54 
37 

Quite  clear 

Quite  clear  
Quite  clear. 
Clouded  

Quite  clear. 
Quite  clear. 
Little  clouded  

Hazy    

Misting  rain. 
Little  cloudy. 
Clouded,  little  snow. 
Quite  clear    
Quite  clear 

Hazy 

Hazy  

Quite  clear. 

Quite  clear. 
Little  cloudy. 
Quite  clear. 

Hazy. 

Clouded  

Clouded  
Rain  

[217] 


Travels    Through   North   ^America 


MARCH,  1760. 

I 

«    rj 
D    G 

£1 

05 
M 

X 

H 

Q 
g 

f 

WEATHER. 

IH 

fit    £ 
§< 

I 

2 

3 

4 
5 
6 

8 

9 
10 
ii 

12 

'3 

H 
15 

16 

17 
18 

19 

20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 

27 
28 
29 
30 
31 

8 

32 

34 
40 

5i 

40 

35 

45 
48 

35 
32 
32 
35 

49 
45 
37 
3° 
26 

27 

39 
4i 
29 
36 
39 
45 
49 
4i 
43 
53 
64 

57 
66 

E. 

N. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 

w. 

S.W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 

N. 
W. 
N.  E. 
S.  E. 
S.  E. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
N. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
N.W. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
E. 
E. 
S.  E. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 

w. 

Clouded. 
Little  cloudy. 
Clouded  .  . 

54 
59 
45 
52 
54 
5° 
38 
45 
43 
54 
54 
43 
39 
32 
32 
38 
52 
38 
34 
39 
50 
52 
56 
48 

54 
70 

74 
67 
64 

Showery  and  windy    .... 
Little  cloudy  and  windy 
Quite  clear    
Hazy. 

Rain  
Misting  rain 

Clouded 

Little  cloudy  
Clouded.    . 

Rain 

Misting  rain    

Clouded  
Thick  snow 

Snow    
Quite  clear    
Clouded  
Cloudy 

Snow    

Rain  . 

Little  cloudy   
Little  cloudy 

Little  cloudy   
Quite  clear 

Quite  clear 

Quite  clear  

Hazy.   ...          

Rain 

Showery 

218] 


Appendix,   N°  5 


APR1 

rL,   1760. 

CO 

>• 
< 
Q 

M 

E£ 

OS 

H 

a 
H 

Q 
2 

£ 

WEATHER. 

il 

Hi  « 

I 

8 

40 

N.W. 

Qjuite  clear  . 

cc 

2 

ro 

S. 

Quite  clear 

67 

2 

61 

s.w. 

Clouded  .        

7O 

4 

6c 

S.  E. 

Quite  clear 

76 

5 

6 

7 
8 
g 

E 

70 

57 
50 
47 
4^ 

w. 

E. 

N.W. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 

Quite  clear,  thunder  .... 
Clouded  
Thunder,  clouded  
Thunder,  clouded  
Clouded  

79 
60 

65 
50 

CO 

10 
ii 

— 

64 
44 

S.W. 

N.  E. 

Little  cloudy,  thunder    .  . 
Small  rain 

85 

C2 

12 

n 

— 

53 
<n 

N.  E. 
S.  E. 

Little  cloudy  
Clouded  ... 

56 
6q 

14 

67 

S.W. 

Little  cloudy 

77 

1C 

70 

s.w. 

Cloudy  thunder 

80 

16 



48 

N.W. 

Little  cloudy  

?8 

17 

___ 

£.3 

S.  E. 

Clouded         .... 

CO 

18 

_ 

4?. 

N.  E0 

Clouded 

CO 

iQ 

20 
21 

— 

55 

59 
64 

W. 

S.W. 
E. 

Quite  clear  
Quite  clear,  thunder    .  .  . 
Quite  clear.  .                 .  . 

71 

77 

77 

22 

__ 

6c 

S.  E. 

Clouded 

7<r 

23 

24 

— 

65 
69 

S.W. 
S.  E. 

Cloudy  and  showers  .... 
Quite  clear  

76 

7O 

25 

26 

— 

70 
74 

S.  E. 
S.W. 

Quite  clear.  .  .  .  „  
Quite  clear 

80 
84 

27 
28 

— 

77 
70 

S.W. 
S.W. 

Quite  clear,  thunder  .... 
Quite  clear    .... 

85 
80 

2Q 

6c 

N.W. 

Quite  clear 

60 

3O 



62 

N.W. 

Quite  clear    

60 

[219] 


Travels    Through   North   America 


MAT 

,    1760. 

|W 

< 

Q 

Ss 

o  o 

ffi^ 

K 

w 

33 

H 

z 

$ 

WEATHER. 

*! 

11 

I 

8 

CQ 

N.W. 

Quite  clear  

60 

2 

56 

c.2 

N.  E. 
W 

Little  cloudy  
Quite  clear 

64 
64 

4. 

j^1 
64 

s.w. 

Quite  clear  

74 

5 
6 

— 

65 
C.8 

s.  w. 

N  E 

Foggy,  little  rain    
Clouded 

74 
6} 

7 

3" 

60 

N.  E. 

Quite  clear  

60 

8 

60 

S.  E. 

Quite  clear  

7? 

72 

S  W 

Quite  clear 

81 

10 

ii 

12 

13 

14. 

— 

/•* 

71 
65 
58 
60 
68 

S.W. 

N.  E. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 
N.W. 

Quite  clear,  thunder  .... 
Little  cloudy  
Rain,  thunder  
Cloudy,  thunder  
Cloudy  

80 

70 
57 
7° 
70 

15 

16 

— 

67 

79 

W. 
S  W 

Little  cloudy  
Clouded,  little  rain 

72 

77 

17 

/  j 

78 

S.W. 

Little  cloudy  

83 

x/ 

18 

I  Q 

— 

74 
68 

w. 

N  W 

Cloudy,  thunder  
Cloudy         

78 

7C 

1y 
2O 
21 

— 

66 

72 

N.W. 
N.  E. 

Little  cloudy  
Quite  clear    

75 

7^ 

22 

64 

N  E 

Rain,  thunder       

61 

23 

rg 

N  E 

Clouded 

6q 

z.5 

24 

25 
26 

— 

ju 

73 
71 
76 

W. 

N.W. 

Rain,  thunder  
Quite  clear  
Thunder 

63 
78 
82 

27 

/  w 
61 

68 

•*/ 
28 

64 

70 

20 

64 

70 

TO 

60 

7*> 

jw 

7T 

71 

7*> 

OA 

/  • 

[220 


Appendix^   N°  5 


JUN1 

^,       1760. 

1 

o  o 

MS 

M 

H 

K 

Q 
g 

S 

WEATHER. 

li 

J 

8 

77 

80 

2 

/  / 
77 

8^ 

80 

88 

go 

Thunder 

88 

c 

°J 
62 

Rain  

70 

f) 

6c 

62 

U5 

6r 

UJ 

72 

8 

UJ 

67 

I  j 
78 

9 
10 

— 

u/ 

70 

Rr 



Rain  

/" 

75 

7C 

1  1 

UJ 

74. 

/  j 

81 

12 

/T 

78 

8q 

13 

80 

87 

*  o 

82 

80 

<?A 

J5 

16 

QO 

Thunder 

91 

QO 

17 

78 

Thunder 

87 

1  / 

18 

/° 
72 

u/ 

7C 

T  n 

IS 
66 

/  j 

7  r 

1v 

20 

78 

/J 

8? 

2  1 

80 

80 

"V 

27 

73 
68 

75 
80 

ZO 
24 

72 

78 

7C 

76 

7Q 

16  j 

26 

/u 

72 

/  V 
80 

27 

/J 

76 

Thunder               

80 

28 

80 

8<; 

20 

81 

8? 

30 

71 

%1 

[221] 


travels    'Through  North   America 


JULY 

,       /7<50. 

GO 

SM 
< 

Q 

Ss 

51 

K 

W 

X 

H 

Q 
g 

^ 

WEATHER. 

-1 

** 

I 

8 

80 

Thunder 

86 

2 

7^ 

82 

1 

81 

80 

j 

4 

87 

Thunder    

Q2 

c 

7<r 

Rain  .  . 

76 

6 

72 

78 

8 

— 

/z 

72 

71 



Small  rain 

/" 

80 
78 

77 

Rain 

8? 

_ 

/  o 

UJ 
Rn 

ii 

75 
84 

86 

12 

84 

88 

86 

O7 

M 
14. 

87 

9Z 

02 

T  r 

"/ 

87 

VA 
01 

1J 
ifi 

°/ 
Ro 

rp,                 1 

vx 
82 

17 

°3 

77 

Rain 

°J 
81 

1  / 

18 

// 

7C 

Rain 

84 

/J 
Rn 

Rain 

R7 

J9 
20 

77 

Rain 

°J 

78 

21 

/  / 

7  C 

/  u 

87 

22 

ID 
80 

Thunder    

"/ 

88 

"7  7 

8/L 

02 

2J 

2A 

04 

00 

yj 
02 

ZT 

2C 

8n 

Thunder 

Vo 
04 

AJ 
26 

"V 

86 

88 

27 

78 

80 

*/ 

28 

/" 

7A 

77 

2Q 

/T 

80 

/  / 

81 

^v 

7O 

80 

82 

Ju 
"21 

72 

Rain 

78 

JA 

/•* 

[222] 


Appendix,  N°  5 


4 

4UGUS 

r,  /;<50. 

\ 

P 

ii 

K2 

BS 
H 

X 

H 

a 
g 

^ 

WEATHER. 

Ld 

«  S 
|< 

I 

8 

77 

84 

2 

77 

81 

7 

// 
7f 

Rain 

78 

3 

i  j 

77 

78 

7J. 

Rain 

84. 

6 

/T 
87 

80 

7 

"j 

8c 

"y 
QO 

8 

— 

85 

8? 



91 
O2 

10 

°/ 
87 

yz 

QI 

ii 

12 

— 

89 
80 



Thunder 

93 

04. 

I? 

"V 
GO 

Thunder 

VT 
04. 

*o 

14 

_ 

Vw 
80 



Rain  

VT 

86 

T  r 

84. 

88 

1J 

16 

°T 

70 

87 

17 

_ 

/  V 
84 



"/ 

86 

18 

80 



88 

10 

87 

88 

*y 

20 
21 

— 

"v> 

78 

72 



83 
70 

22 

78 



Rain 

8^? 

27 

76 

84 

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24 

_ 

/  w 

77 



84 

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86 

26 

76 

8? 

27 

84 

"j 

80 

•*  / 
28 

72 

"V 

78 

Of\ 

/  •* 

/** 

zy 
?o 



71 

71 

06 

j* 

Travels    Through   North   America 


SEPTEMBER,   1760. 

& 

£s 
£1 

K 

W 
X 

Q 
Z 

$ 

WEATHER. 

«  5 
§< 
ffi  ,; 

I 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 
8 

9 

10 

ii 

12 

13 

H 
15 

16 

i7 
18 

iQ 

20 
21 

22 

23 

24 

25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 

8 

85 
78 

83 
80 

70 

73 

73 
75 
80 
80 
80 
80 
76 
69 
82 
7i 
67 
55 
64 
52 
49 
63 
7i 
62 

52 
52 
58 
64 

59 
58 

88 
80 
88 
82 
76 
78 
78 
81 
86 

87 
86 

83 

78 
80 

91 
72 
72 
62 
68 

65 
64 
76 

79 
70 

64 
69 
71 
77 
67 
67 

— 



Thunder    

— 





A  shower  



— 

A  shower  





Rain  



— 



Rain 

Appendix,  N°  5 


OCTOBER,   1760. 

03 

1 

SB 

0    0 

ffi£ 

fit 
M 

s 
H 

D 
g 

$ 

WEATHER. 

*  S 
g< 

I 

2 

3 

4 
5 
6 

8 

9 
10 
ii 

12 

13 
H 
15 

16 

i? 
18 

iQ 

20 
21 
22 

23 

24 

25 
26 

27 
28 

29 

3° 
3i 

8 

54 
54 
55 
57 
58 
57 
57 
58 
62 
62 
62 

50 
62 
70 
49 
49 
45 
50 
54 

50 
48 

43 
42 
63 
5° 
48 

5° 
45 
45 
43 
30 



63 
67 
70 

73 
63 
57 
59 
67 
68 
70 

7° 
66 

78 
68 
60 

59 
62 
68 
70 
53 
59 
57 
60 

7i 
58 
69 

63 
60 

43 
49 

— 





Misting  rain    

— 





Rain 



Little  rain 





Rain  

— 



Rain 

[225] 


Travels    Through   North   America 


NOVEMBER,   1760. 

1 

£s 

o  o 
KS 

« 
w 
X 

H 

Q 

g 

£ 

WEATHER. 

«  s 
§< 

I 

2 

3 

4 

5 
6 

8 

9 
10 
ii 

12 

r3 
H 
15 

16 

17 
18 

J9 
20 

21 

22 

23 
24 
25 
26 

27 
28 
29 
30 

8 

43 

47 
50 
50 
54 
40 

35 

30 
43 
42 
40 

3° 
42 
33 
25 
27 
35 
36 
28 

38 
48 
48 
49 
5i 
4i 
36 
33 

61 

67 
70 

55 
48 
43 

45 
60 

52 

47 
46 
60 

37 
36 
38 
48 
47 
5i 
58 
64 
54 
60 

55 
52 

45 
46 

— 



— 





Little  snow 





— 

Little  ruin 

Rain 

Rain 

[H6] 


Appendix,   N 


DECEMBER,   1760. 

en 

fx 

< 
Q 

s  a' 
oj 

tc^ 

K 

H 

a 
H 

Q 

z 

£ 

WEATHER. 

1! 

I 

2 

3 

4 

6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
ii 

12 
13 
14 
15 

16 

17 
18 

19 
20 

21 
22 
23 

24 

25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 

31 

8 

30 
34 
4i 
51 
38 
35 
38 
35 
44 
55 
40 

44 
29 

32 
48 

63 

27 
3° 

21 

24 

44 
32 

25 
23 
32 

42 
42 
44 

27 

24 

46 

49 
47 
56 

47 
46 
48 
45 
49 
57 
55 
5i 
46 

47 
65 
69 

35 
32 
34 
38 
55 
44 

37 
38 
53 
54 

— 



Rain 

— 





Rain       .    . 

Rain 

— 



— 

Rain 

— 

Snow 

Rain 

— 

— 

Rain 

— 



44 
35 
35 

[227] 


Travels    Through   North   America 


JANUARY,   1761. 

£ 
< 

Q 

il 

«3 

(4 

Id 

a 
H 

Q 
Sjj 

5 

WEATHER. 

£   £ 

ol 

I 
2 

3 
4 

6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
ii 

12 
13 
H 
15 

16 

I? 
18 

19 
20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 
26 

27 
28 

29 
30 
31 

8 

29 
26 

27 
IO 
12 
22 
20 
23 
23 
27 
21 

18 

15 

28 

36 
28 

31 

34 
28 

42 
32 

22 

34 
24 
35 
49 
44 
32 
46 
46 

N.W. 

Clear 

35 

32 
19 
29 
28 
26 

33 
4i 
32 
32 
25 

21 

33 
44 
4i 
29 

44 
44 
54 
54 
34 
36 
38 
32 
58 
64 

49 
48 
62 
48 

Snow    
Flying  clouds. 

— 

N.W. 
N.W. 

N.  E. 
N. 
N.  E. 
N. 
S.W. 
N. 
N.W. 
N. 
N.W. 
N. 
N.W. 
W. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 
W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
W. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 

s. 

N.  E. 
N.  E. 
S. 
N.W. 

Clear 

Snow    

Snow 

Clouded  

Clouded 

Clouded  

Clouded 

Rain  

Flying  clouds    
Cloudy 

Cloudy  

Clouded             .    .  . 

Cloudy 

Cloudy  
Clouded  

Clouded 

Clouded  

Flying  clouds    

[228 


Appendix,   N°  5 


FE 

BRUA 

RY,   1761. 

!» 
< 

Q 

Ss 

0    0 

ffi3 

u 

w 

S 

H 

d 
J5 

$ 

WEATHER. 

!l 

E   e! 

I 

8 

24. 

N.  W. 

72 

2 

94. 

s.  w 

Cloudy 

J^ 

64 

OT 
TO 

N  E 

Little  snow 

TO 

4. 

o^ 

22 

N.  W. 

Flying  clouds    

ow 

26 

r 

I  r 

N  W. 

24. 

J 

6 

A  J 

27 

N.  E 

Cloudy 

7.6 

7 

^•j 

4.r 

s 

Clouded 

jw 
60 

/ 

8 

Q 

— 

TJ 

57 
?$ 

s.w. 

N  E 

Cloudy  
Flying  clouds    

64 

V 

IO 

3" 

7J. 

N  E 

Rain 

77 

1  1 

OT 

37 

N.  E. 

Clouded  

j/ 
4.7 

12 
I"? 

— 

o/ 

35 

4-O 

N.  E. 
N  E 

Rain  
Clouded  .            .  . 

40 

CA 

M 
H 
1C 

— 

39 

7,8 

N.  E. 
N.  E. 

Misting  rain    
Rain  

JT 

42 
4.O 

16 

7.7 

N.  E 

Rain  

7C 

17 

O/ 
or 

N  W 

JJ 

4.r 

A  / 

18 

jj 

7C 

S  E 

TJ 
60 

10 

jj 

7,6 

S.W. 

Flying  clouds    

CQ 

20 
21 
22 

— 

51 

49 
^6 

S.W. 
W. 

N  W 

Clouded  
Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds 

J7 

6? 

57 

AC 

2? 

ow 
2Q 

N 

TJ 
-Jf 

^j 
24. 

z,y 

22 

N.  W. 

5j 

7.r 

2C 

7.1 

S  W 

OJ 
T2 

•*O 

26 

O^ 

4.0 

s  w 

Hazy 

J^ 

67 

27 

TV 

?8 

S  E 

Rain 

W 
4.O 

*/ 

28 

o" 

7C 

N.  W. 

Sleet  

4.O 

OJ 

[229] 


Travels    Through   North   America 


-MARCH,  1761. 

;« 
Q 

gs 

o  o 

K2 

M 

H 

X 

H 

a 
g 

£ 

WEATHER. 

«s 

§< 

w  « 

I 

2 

3 

4 

5 
6 

8 

9 
10 
ii 

12 

13 
14 
15 

16 

i7 
18 

19 

20 
21 
22 

23 

24 
25 
26 

27 
28 

29 
30 

31 

8 

28 
28 
32 
38 
42 
33 
3i 
33 
33 
36 
50 
43 
43 
35 
29 

35 
43 
45 
61 

47 
46 
60 
53 
45 
47 
54 
63 
62 
68 
61 
48 

N.W. 
N.  E. 
W. 
W. 

s.w. 

N.W. 
N.  E. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
W. 

s.w. 

N.  E. 
N. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
N.  E. 
S.  E. 
N.E. 
N.E. 
S.W. 
S. 
N. 
N. 
N.E. 
S. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
S. 
S.W. 
E. 

Flying  clouds  

37 
43 
42 
48 

56 
38 
32 

47 
43 
55 
60 
60 
42 
50 
38 
58 
48 
70 
7i 
53 
65 
78 
57 
52 
56 
74 

83 
82 
86 
78 
65 

Clouded 

Snow 

Clouded 

Clouded  

Snow  

Clouded         .  . 

Clouded     

Clouded 

Clouded  

Clouded  

Clouded  

Clouded       

Clouded 

Clouded  

Clouded  

Clouded     

Hazy 

Hazy 

Hazy  

Hazy      

Clouded 

[230] 


Appendix,  N°  5 


APRI. 

L,   /7<5i. 

1 

ii 

« 

w 

S 

H 

0 

z 

^ 

WEATHER. 

ll 

MH     f5 

I 

8 

r8 

N  E 

7O 

2 

3U 

rr 

S  E 

Hazy                                

6q 

3 

4 

r 

— 

JJ 

61 
63 

rn 

S. 
S. 

N 

Cloudy  
Cloudy,  thunder  
Rain                            

75 
73 

C7 

j 

6 

Jw 

2C 

N  W 

46 

7 

JJ 

4-0 

S.  E. 

Cloudy     

66 

8 

TV 

r  7 

S 

Clouded  .          

60 

j/ 
60 

E 

Rain 

C7 

10 

4.7 

N  E 

Rain 

CQ 

1  1 

4/ 
4.7 

S  E. 

Rain               

C2 

12 

T/ 

4.6 

N  E 

Clouded                       

ci 

13 
Id. 

— 

51 

C7 

S.E. 

s 

Clouded  
Cloudy 

66 

77 

T  c 

J/ 
60 

S  W 

Flying  clouds  

/  / 

8? 

*  j 

16 

17 

— 

WV 

74 

T7 

s.w. 

N  W. 

High  wind   

86 
6? 

18 

J/ 
rr 

N  E 

60 

10 

JA 

62 

S  W 

7C 

1  V 

20 

21 

— 

68 

74. 

S.W. 
S  W. 

Flying  clouds  
Flying  clouds  

82 
82 

22 

23 

24 

— 

/T 
56 

66 

7? 

S.E. 
S.W. 

N 

Misting  rain,  thunder..  .  . 
Flying  clouds  
Clouded  

61 

78 

74 

2C 

/  j 

71 

S  W 

Flying  clouds  

84 

26 

/  * 
64. 

N  E 

74 

27 

60 

s 

Rain 

*/ 

28 

wy 
70 

S. 

Little  rain  

86 

2Q 

/w 

*v 

20 

cfi 

CO 

3° 

5° 

3U 

Travels    Through   North   Americd 


MAT 

,   1761  . 

& 

11 

OS 

M 

5 

D 
JZ5 

g 

WEATHER. 

*s 
• 

I 

8 

c8 

Flying  clouds 

60 

2 

cc 

N.  W. 

vjy 
64 

3 

tf 

N.  E. 

Rain 

6? 

4 



6$ 

S. 

Clouded,  thunder  .    . 

80 

5 

60 

N.  W. 

60 

6 

C7 

N.  E. 

Flying  clouds 

6? 

7 
8 

— 

52 
C? 

N.  E. 
E. 

Clouded  
Rain  

WJ 

54 

C2 

Q 

CC 

E. 

High  wind,  rain 

JJ 

C7 

IO 



S4 

S.  E. 

Rain  

J/ 
64 

II 

60 

S.  E. 

Rain  

6? 

12 

J3 
14 

— 

68 

70 
60 

S. 
S.  E. 

N.  E. 

Clouded  
Showery  
Showery  .  . 

80 

73 
6? 

1C 

61 

N.  W. 

Clouded  . 

79 

16 

17 

— 

73 
7<> 

S.  E. 

S. 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    ...    . 

/  J 
80 

8q 

18 

83 

S.  W. 

Cloudy,  thunder 

87 

IQ 



67 

N.W. 

Flying  clouds    . 

76 

2O 

60 

N  W 

67 

21 

22 

23 

24. 

80 

S  W 

v/ 

80 

25 
26 
27 
28 

CA 

Little  rain    .... 

°y 
60 

20 

c8 

N.  E. 

Clouded  . 

64 

2O 

64. 

8? 

Ju 

71 

81 

N.W. 

Flying  clouds    

°j 

Appendix,   N°  5 


JUNL 

;,  1761  . 

1 

£s 

sl 

05 

H 

a 
H 

D 
>5 

J 

WEATHER. 

«  | 
§< 

ffi    N 

J 

8 

60 

N  W 

70 

2 
-j 

64 

7<r 

N.  E. 
E. 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    

74 
78 

j 

i  j 

71 

s 

Misting  rain    

r 

/  j 
64. 

N  W 

Flying  clouds    .        

71 

J 

6 

64. 

N  E 

72 

UT 

7O 

S  E 

Flying  clouds 

76 

8 

9 
10 

— 

/u 

68 
68 

72 

E. 
E. 

N  E 

Clouded  
Little  rain    

72 
72 
76 

1  1 

/5 

7r 

E 

76 

1  2 

/  j 

77 

S  E 

82 

1  1 

/  / 
7Q 

s 

Clouded 

86 

ls 

T  A 

/y 

gr 

S  W 

Flvinj?  clouds 

87 

1<T 
15 

16 

— 

°J 

85 

gr 

s.w. 

N  E 

J       o 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds             .    ... 

87 
87 

17 
18 

19 
20 

E 

uj 

88 

86 
86 
60 

N.  E. 
S.W. 

s.w. 

N  E 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    
Clouded,  thunder  
Rain 

88 

88 

91 
61 

21 

60 

N  E 

Flying  clouds    

63 

22 
0-2 

— 

7i 

76 

N.  E. 
N 

Flying  clouds    

73 
70 

ZJ 

"?  A. 

/u 
81 

s 

8? 

•L'T 

7  C 

84. 

S  W 

Flying  clouds 

8<; 

23 

26 

07 

— 

°T 

89 
go 

s.w. 

S  W 

Flying  clouds    

89 

02 

•4/ 
28 

uy 
QI 

s 

07 

9O 

V1 
80 

S  W 

07 

zy 
30 

— 

°v 

89 

s.w. 

Flying  clouds,  thunder  .  . 

92 

[*33l 


Travels    Through   North   America 


JULY 

',  1761. 

£" 
< 
P 

£S 

o  o 
«§ 

« 
H 

X 

H 

Q 
55 

s 

WEATHER. 

si 

K  « 

I 

8 

87 

s.w. 

Cloudy,  thunder  

02 

2 

QO 

s. 

Flying  clouds    

04 

7 

QI 

s. 

Flying  clouds            

Q? 

4 

5 

6 

7 
8 

Q 

— 

92 

93 
95 
8? 
92 
8g 

s.w. 
s. 
s. 
s.w. 
s.w. 
s.w. 

Flying  clouds    
Clouded  
Clouded,  thunder  ...... 
Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds,  thunder  .  . 
Showery  .        

94 
94 
97 
94 
88 

04 

IO 

8? 

s.w. 

Cloudy  thunder 

02 

II 

62 

N.  E. 

Small  rain    

66 

12 
I? 

— 

70 
70 

E. 
S.  E. 

Flying  clouds    

76 

80 

14- 

80 

E 

80 

1C 

84 

S.W. 

88 

16 

17 

— 

90 
80 

S. 
S  E. 

Flying  clouds    

94 
86 

18 

IQ 

— 

94 

QI 

S.W. 

s.w. 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds       

92 

QS 

2O 
21 

— 

91 

Q? 

s.w. 
s.w. 

Flying  clouds    
Cloudy,  thunder  

94 
04 

22 
27 

— 

72 
82 

N.  E. 
S.W. 

Clouded  
Clear,  thunder    

80 

Q? 

24. 

80 

N.  E. 

Clouded 

81 

25 
26 

— 

72 

74 

N.  E. 
S.W. 

thunder    
Cloudy           

79 
86 

27 

86 

s.w. 

Cloudy                  

02 

28 

QO 

s.w 

Clouded 

02 

20 

86 

N.  E. 

Flying  clouds  

88 

30 
31 

— 

79 

N.  E. 
S.W. 

Flying  clouds    

86 

QO 

[234] 


Appendix, 


5 


4UGUST,  1761. 

>> 
< 

Q 

Ij 

ffiS 

a 
w 
33 

H 

Q 

2 

£ 

WEATHER. 

MJJ 

§< 

ffi    cJ 

I 
2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

8 

9 
10 
ii 

12 

13 
H 
15 

16 

17 

18 

J9 
20 

21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 

2? 
28 

29 
30 
31 

8 

88 

85 
81 

85 

s.w. 
s.w. 

E. 
W. 

Cloudy,  thunder  
Clouded,  thunder   
Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds 

91 

89 
85 

91 

93 

97 
93 
93 
94 
94 
94 
95 
74 
76 

77 
70 

7i 

72 
74 
78 
81 

83 
86 

83 

85 

86 
90 
89 
88 
89 
74 

75 
66 

64 

65 
66 

65 
69 

7i 
78 
72 
75 

S.W. 

s.w. 
s.w. 
s.w. 
s.w. 
s.w. 

N.  E. 
N.E. 
N.  E. 
N.W. 
N. 
N. 
N. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
W. 
S.W. 
N.W. 

Flying  clouds 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    . 

Cloudy  
Flying  clouds,  thunder  .  . 
Clouded 

Rain 

Clouded  
Rain  

Clouded  . 

Clouded 

Cloudy  

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    

[235] 


Travels    Through   North   America 


SEPTEMBER,   1761. 

>• 
< 

Q 

£e 

£1 

K 

as 

Q 
£ 

£ 

WEATHER. 

si 

0< 
E    M 

I 

2 

3 

4 

6 

7 
8 

9 

10 

n 

12 
13 
H 
15 

16 

17 

18 

19 
20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 
28 
29 
30 

8 

70 
69 

66 
61 

66 
7i 
67 
64 

7i 

73 
62 

63 
64 
69 

65 
62 

65 
66 

7° 
70 
68 
65 
75 
72 
81 

72 
74 
76 
72 
74 

N.W. 
N.  E. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
W. 

s.w. 

N. 
N.W. 
S.W. 

s.w. 

N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
S.E. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
S.E. 
S.E. 
S. 

s. 

S. 

s. 

S.E. 
S.E. 

Cloudy 

78 

73 
68 

7° 
73 
82 

74 

71 
82 

83 

7° 
73 
75 
80 

74 
67 
77 
75 
81 
76 

73 
78 
78 
87 
76 
85 
84 
82 
80 
80 

Rain 

Clouded  
Clouded  

Cloudy  

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds,  rain   
Cloudy  

Clouded 

Cloudy  
Cloudy  

Clouded  
Rain 

Rain       

Rain                  

Cloudy                 

Cloudy 

Clouded  
Flying  clouds    

Flying  clouds    

Cloudy               

[236] 


Appendix,   N°  5 


OCTOBER,   1761. 

CO 

p 

SS 

o  o 

as 

at 
w 

& 

H 

Q 

z 

£ 

WEATHER. 

«§ 

§< 

I 

2 

3 

4 

6 

7 
8 

9 

10 

ii 

12 
13 
H 
15 

16 

17 
18 

19 

20 
21 
22 

23 
24 

25 
26 

27 
28 
29 

3° 
31 

8 

70 
67 
67 
63 
65 
67 
70 

73 
63 
53 
53 
5i 
46 
46 
47 
47 
53 
55 
56 
58 
66 

67 
47 
45 
45 
45 
50 
45 
43 
50 
5i 

N.  E. 
N. 
N. 
N. 
N. 
S.  E. 
S. 
S. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
N.W. 
N. 
N.W. 
N. 
W. 

s.w. 
s.w. 

S.  E. 
E. 

S.  E. 
N.W. 
S.W. 

w. 

N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 

s.w. 

Small  rain    .          

71 
70 

78 

71 

75 
76 
81 

83 
58 
60 

52 

56 
56 

57 
57 
60 
68 
70 
72 
72 
71 
58 
46 

58 
58 
58 
57 
5i 
59 
59 
65 

Small  rain 

Cloudy 

Cloudy  

Cloudy  

Rain  
Rain 

Clouded  
Rain  
Cloudy 

Flying  clouds  

Flying  clouds    

Cloudy  

Cloudy 

Rain  

Rain  

Flying  clouds 

Clouded 

Clouded  

Clouded  
Flying  clouds    .... 

Cloudy  . 

Cloudy 

Flying  clouds    

[237] 


Travels    Through  North  America 


NOVEMBER,  1761. 

1 

11 

W£ 

C£ 
W 
X 

H 

Q 
g 

£ 

WEATHER. 

Mjj 

0< 
K   « 

I 

2 

3 

4 

5 
6 

8 

9 

10 

ii 

12 
13 
H 
15 

16 

i7 
18 

J9 
20 

21 
22 

23 
24 
25 
26 

27 
28 

29 
30 

8 

56 

43 
43 
50 
46 

44 
35 
30 
30 
35 
35 
35 

35 
35 

40 

45 
4i 

36 
35 
35 
34 
5o 
35 
29 

47 
49 
43 

N.  E. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
S.  E. 

N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 

Rain  

51 

55 

59 
62 

57 
46 
46 
45 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds 

Rain  
Flying  clouds        

Clouded 

Clouded 

Clouded 

52 

47 
46 

5i 

49 
56 
42 

49 
49 
54 
50 
54 
43 
45 
62 
61 
53 

— 

N.W. 
N.W. 

N.W. 
N.W. 

s.w. 
s.w. 

N.W. 
N. 
S.W. 
N.E. 
S. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
S. 
S.W. 
N.E. 

Rain 

Small  rain         

Fo££V   . 

1  W66/ 

Rain       

Cloudy 

Ram 

Clouded  

Cloudy               

Appendix,  N°  J 


DECEMBER,   1761. 

;* 
P 

ii 

« 

w 

5C 

H 

a 
fc 

£ 

WEATHER. 

1! 

i 

2 

3 
4 
5 
6 

8 

9 
10 
ii 

12 

13 
H 
15 

16 

17 
18 

iQ 

20 
21 
22 

23 
24 
25 
26 

27 
28 

29 

3° 
31 

8 

41 
32 

35 
36 
38 

3° 
26 

21 

34 

20 

12 

34 
34 
32 
34 

22 

26 

19 
2O 
26 
30 
36 
2O 

27 

37 

10 

7 
15 
26 

27 
30 

N.W. 
N.W. 
N. 
E. 
S. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 

s.w. 

N. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
N.W. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 

49 
48 

45 
45 
52 

34 
34 
34 

20 
32 

47 
38 
38 
37 
30 
43 
25 
30 

39 
49 
30 
4i 

19 
19 
37 
42 
45 
48 

Clouded   

Cloudy  

Rain 

Rain   high  wind 

Little  snow 

Rain  and  snow 

Clouded 

Rain  

Rain                    

Clouded 

Clouded  

Little  snow 

Clouded  

Clouded         

Cloudy 

Snow  rain  

Flying  clouds    

Flying  clouds 

[239] 


Travels   Through  North  America 


JANUARY,   1762. 

r* 
< 

Q 

§1 

KS 

(2 

W 
B 

H 

Q 

SB 
$ 

WEATHER. 

«ii 
g< 

B     N 

I 
2 
3 

4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
ii 

12 

13 

H 
15 

16 

i7 
18 

i9 

20 
21 
22 
23 

24 

25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 

8 

3° 
15 
13 
30 
39 
39 
45 
5i 
50 
30 
3° 
25 
34 

35 

40 

50 
40 
40 
55 
33 
26 

3° 
36 
20 

i9 

N. 
N.W. 
N.  E. 
N. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
S. 

s.w. 

N. 
N. 
N. 
S.W. 
N. 
S.W. 

N.  E. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 

N.W. 
N.W. 
N.  E. 
W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 

34 
48 

42 
46 
54 
53 
64 

65 
56 
3° 
39 
45 
5i 
55 
64 

39 
45 
4i 

54 

45 
40 

4i 
43 
29 
37 

Cloudy  

Thick  fog 

Clouded  

Thick  fog  

Thick  fog 

Thick  fog 

Clouded  
Snow 

Clouded  

Misting  rain    
Misting  rain     

Misting  rain    

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    

Flying  clouds    
Rain  

[240! 


Appendix,   N°  5 


FJ 

VBRUA 

r#r,  1762. 

1 

£s 

o  o 
ffiS 

K 

w 

s 
H 

Q 
g 

f 

WEATHER. 

K  5 

K 

I 

8 

Clouded   

4.0 

2 

28 

N.  W. 

4.O 

2 

77 

S.  W. 

Cloudy 

C7 

o 

4 

5 
6 

— 

OJ 

46 

45 

4-4. 

W. 

S. 

w. 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds,  thunder  .  . 

JJ 

59 
60 

C? 

7 

4.O 

N  E 

Cloudy  thunder 

JO 

ro 

8 

Q 

— 

39 

72 

N. 
N.  W. 

Cloudy  
Cloudy  

3^ 

47 

4.2 

IO 

3* 

or 

N  E 

Snow   rain 

76 

II 

OJ 

72 

N.  W. 

Clouded  

ow 

4-2 

12 

j* 
72 

N.  W. 

4.2 

I? 

o-4- 
71 

N  W 

48 

M 
H 
I  c 

— 

o1 

31 

71 

N.  E. 

N.  W. 

Cloudy  

4-0 

16 

17 

— 

OA 

32 

42 

N.  E. 
S.  W. 

Flying  clouds    
Small  rain    

TV 

47 
46 

18 

4-2 

N.  W. 

48 

in 



36 

W. 

Hazy    

48 

2O 

AC 

W. 

Hazy    

40 

21 

74. 

N.W. 

22 

26 

N.  W 

7^6 

22 



76 

S.  W. 

Hazy    

jw 
41 

24 



7C 

N.W. 

Clouded  

4«r 

2C 

22 

N.W. 

26 

26 

27 

— 

24 
22 

N.W. 
N.W. 

Flying  clouds    

30 
72 

28 



3O 

N.W. 

71 

241] 


Travels   Through  North  America 


MARCH,  1762. 

i 

Q 

«  a 
£>  G 
o  o 

tea 

K 
W 
ffi 

O 
g 

5 

WEATHER. 

*| 

§< 

w  « 

I 

2 

3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 

10 

ii 

12 
13 
H 
15 

16 

r7 
18 

19 
20 

21 

22 

23 
24 
25 

26 

2? 
28 
29 

3° 
3i 

8 

28 

34 
26 

36 
32 
35 
39 
37 
33 
33 
37 
4i 
35 
32 
29 

34 
39 
56 
34 
43 
47 
42 
35 
44 
4i 
38 
44 
53 
58 
44 
4i 

N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
W. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
E. 
N.  E. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
W. 
S.  E. 

N.W. 
N.W. 
N. 

s.w. 
s.w. 

N.  E. 
S.  E. 
S. 
N.W. 
N.  E. 
S.  E. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
S. 
S. 

s.w. 

N.  E. 
N.  E. 

Hazy  rain 

47 
40 
40 
5i 
43 
40 

43 
4i 

43 
49 
46 

43 
36 
36 
45 
59 
66 

43 
49 
56 
5i 
42 
53 
47 
48 

58 
59 
65 
55 

45 

Clouded  

Flying  clouds    

Flying  clouds    
Rain 

Rain 

Rain  

Cloudy 

Little  snow    

Cloudy 

Small  ram 

Flying  clouds    

Rain  

Small  rain    

Cloudy  
Cloudy 

Hazy              

Clouded                   

Flying  clouds 

Cloudy 

Rain           

Appendix,  N°  5 


APRIL,   1762. 

>* 
< 

Q 

£s 

0  0 

ffis 

M 

w 
X 

H 

Q 
£ 

£ 

WEATHER. 

jH 

I 

2 

3 

4 

6 

7 
8 

9 

10 

ii 

12 

13 

H 
15 

16 

i7 
18 

19 

20 
21 
22 
23 
24 

25 

26 

27 
28 
29 
30 

8 

44 
43 
52 
44 
46 
61 

45 
46 

45 
49 
52 
61 

63 
45 
45 
50 
50 
50 
56 

A2 

42 

50 
56 
56 
63 

68 

63 
60 

56 
71 

S.  E. 

N.  E. 
S. 
N.  E. 
S.  E. 
S. 
S.  E. 
S.E. 
N.W. 
N.W. 

s.w. 

S.  W. 

s.w. 

N.  E. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
N. 
N.  E. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
S.E. 
S.E. 
S. 
S.W. 
N. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 

s.w. 

Flying  clouds  

5° 
46 

63 
50 
53 

47 
57 
5i 
58 
70 

73 

73 
43 
5o 
64 

59 
65 
60 

52 
51 

55 

60 
60 

74 

72 

67 
64 

73 
81 

Rain  
Cloudy  

Clouded  

Clouded  
Cloudy  .  . 

Hazy     ................ 

Hazy     
Hazy     . 

Rain 

Cloudy  

Clouded  

Rain  .    .    . 

Clouded 

Cloudy  
Hazy    

Hazy,  thunder 

[243] 


Travels    Through   North   America 


MAT 

,   1762. 

(x 

< 
Q 

Se 

o  o 

WS 

« 

w 

BG 

H 

D 
g 

£ 

WEATHER. 

«  $ 
£< 
E  N 

I 

8 

72 

s.w. 

Showers  . 

7C. 

2 

c8 

N.  E. 

Showers 

/  J 
rr 

? 



C? 

N.  E. 

Rain  

Jj 

co 

4 

C? 

N.  E. 

Cloudy 

c.8 

c 

c6 

S.W. 

67 

6 



57 

S.W. 

Cloudy,  thunder  ...    . 

w/ 
6c 

7 

56 

N. 

Flying  clouds 

61 

8 



50 

E. 

64 

0 

__ 

64 

S. 

60 

IO 

6? 

N.  E. 

Cloudy 

64 

r6 

12 
I? 

— 

5° 
59 
6q 

S. 
S.W. 

Flying  clouds    
Cloudy 

69 

70 

14 



56 

N.  E. 

Clouded  

cc 

1C 



<tf 

E. 

Cloudy 

60 

16 



66 

S.W. 

Cloudy  

72 

J7 
18 

— 

70 
74 

S.W. 
S.W. 

Thunder    

79 

70 

IQ 

7C 

S.W. 

70 

2O 
21 

— 

76 
78 

S.W. 

S. 

Flying  clouds    .  .    . 

81 

76 

22 

7C 

E. 

Cloudy 

77 

27 



77 

S.W. 

80 

24 



76 

S.W. 

81 

2C, 

80 

S.W. 

8? 

26 

78 

W 

84 

27 
28 

— 

80 
6s 

S.W. 

N.  W. 

Flying  clouds,  thunder  .  . 
Rain   

82 
c8 

20 

6c 

N. 

Cloudy 

71 

3O 

60 

N  E. 

Cloudy 

71 

31 



7i 

S.  E. 

Cloudy  

7<r 

[244] 


Appendix,   N 


JUNE 

;,  1762. 

>H 
< 

Q 

Ss 

o  o 

E£ 

K 
H 

33 

H 

Q 
J5 

^ 

WEATHER. 

il 

j 

8 

71 

s.  w. 

Clouded   ... 

74- 

2 

67 

N.  W. 

Cloudy 

78 

C7 

N.  W. 

Cloudy  

60 

x 

60 

N.  W. 

Flying  clouds    .    .    . 

66 

11 

6 

7 

— 

75 

7<r 

s.w. 
s.  w. 

/  5 
78 
82 

/ 

8 

77 

S  E 

82 

/  / 

72 

S.W. 

82 

10 
1  1 

— 

78 

7O 

S.W. 

N 

Cloudy,  thunder  

84 

7C 

12 

J3 

H 

I  r 



/w 

79 
70 
81 
78 

S.E. 

S. 
S. 
N  W 

Flying  clouds    
Cloudy  
Flying  clouds,  thunder  .  . 
Cloudy 

79 
85 
85 
82 

1J 

16 

17 

18 

— 

/° 

83 

73 

7A 

N. 
N.  E. 
N  W 

Cloudy,  thunder  
Cloudy,  thunder  
Rain 

88 
80 
83 

J9 
20 

— 

/T 

68 

7O 

N.  E. 
W. 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    

70 

7^ 

21 

/  w 
82 

W 

80 

22 

87 

W 

a  shower    . 

QO 

22 

u/ 

8? 

N  W 

Cloudy 

70 

z.5 

24 

2C 

— 

°J 

73 

'TQ 

E. 
S  E. 

Cloudy  
Flying  clouds    

75 
82 

^•3 
26 

/  V 

82 

S  E 

7<r 

27 

84. 

s 

8c 

^/ 
28 

7<r 

N.  E. 

8? 

29 
on 

— 

/  3 
82 

7O 

S.E. 

N 

Flying  clouds,  thunder  .. 
Clouded 

s? 

70 

J^ 

/  w 

[245] 


Travels    Through   North   America 


JULY 

',   i  762  . 

s 

& 

11 

« 

w 

X 

H 

d 
2 

$ 

WEATHER. 

«  S 

§< 

W  « 

J 

8 

73 

E 

Rain 

70 

2 
2 

/  j 
64 

66 

N.  E. 
W. 

Rain  

/  V 
70 

70 

o 

j. 

84 

s  w 

84 

c 

84 

s.w. 

Hazy    

86 

6 

7 

— 

88 
84 

s.w. 
w. 

Hazy,  thunder  
Hazy,  thunder 

91 
88 

/ 

8 

9 
10 

— 

84 

76 

77 

s.w. 

N.E. 
N  E. 

Cloudy,  thunder  
Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds 

88 

76 
72 

j  j 

1  j 
7O 

S  E 

Jo 
80 

12 
I? 

— 

/y 
75 
80 

S.W. 
S  W 

Clouded,  a  shower    
Clouded 

82 
84 

M 
14. 

80 

S.  E. 

Cloudy         

70 

15 

16 

J7 
18 

— 

75 
75 
83 
82 

N.W. 
N.E. 
S.E. 
S.W. 

Flying  clouds    
Cloudy  
Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    

77 
80 
82 
84 

19 
20 

— 

83 
82 

S.W. 
S.W 

Flying  clouds,  thunder  .  . 
Flying  clouds 

85 
84 

21 

22 
22 

— 

"a 

81 

76 
8c 

S.W. 

N.E. 
S  E 

Flying  clouds    
Cloudy,  thunder  
Cloudy 

85 
85 
80 

*O 

24 
25 
26 

— 

"j 

85 
80 
80 

S.W. 

N. 
N  E 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds 

87 
85 
80 

27 

70 

E. 

Cloudy  

70 

28 
29 
3O 

— 

81 
81 

84 

S.E. 

S. 
E 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    
Cloudy 

79 
85 
70 

ow 
9i 

64 

N  E 

Rain 

62 

ox 

[246] 


Appendix,   N°  5 


AUGUST,   1762. 

1 

*£ 

«i 

PC 

w 

E 

H 

Q 
fc 

$ 

WEATHER. 

«ji 

§< 

a  « 

i 

2 

3 

4 

6 

7 
8 

9 

10 

ii 

12 

13 

14 
15 

16 

17 
18 

i9 

20 
21 
22 

23 

24 

25 
26 

27 
28 

29 
30 
31 

8 

59 

70 

67 
67 
66 

67 
74 
74 
72 
69 
71 
79 
73 
79 
78 
78 
77 
79 
80 

77 
67 
78 
78 
78 
69 

73 
74 
76 
76 
77 
73 

N.  E. 
N.W. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
N. 
W  . 

s.w. 
s.w. 
s.w. 

N.W. 
S.W. 
N. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 

s. 
s.w. 
s.w. 
s.w. 
s.w. 
s.w. 

N.W. 

s.w. 
s.w. 
s.w. 

N.W. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
N.W. 

Rain  

62 
76 

70 
69 

74 
74 
79 
79 

•  2 

75 
80 

84 
79 
84 

84 
82 

84 
83 
83 
84 
81 
81 
83 
83 
75 
80 
82 
83 
83 
82 
81 

Flying  clouds    .... 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    

Flying  clouds    . 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    

Cloudy  

Cloudy  

Cloudy  .  . 

Cloudy  
Flying  clouds    
Clouded,  thunder  

Flying  clouds,  shower    .  . 
Cloudy,  thunder  
Cloudy,  thunder  
Cloudy,  thunder  . 

Cloudy 

Flying  clouds 

Cloudy  
Flying  clouds,  thunder  .  . 
Cloudy,  thunder  

Cloudy,  thunder  
Cloudy 

Cloudy 

Flying  clouds    
Flying  clouds    

Flying  clouds    

[247] 


Travels    Through   North  America 


SEPTEMBER,   1762. 

t* 
< 

Q 

£s 

ffil 

K 

W 

E 

H 

Q 
g 

£ 

WEATHER. 

«  J9 

g< 

K  « 

I 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
ii 

12 
13 
H 
15 

16 

I? 
18 

19 
20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 
28 

29 
30 

8 

71 

77 
64 

65 
63 
71 
61 
62 
64 
64 
72 

65 
67 
72 
69 
67 
59 
60 
64 
69 
70 
70 
55 
5i 
5i 
55 
56 
64 
63 
56 

N. 

N. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
S. 

s.w. 

N.  E. 
N.W. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 
N.  E. 
N.W. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 
N. 
N.W. 
N.  E. 
E. 
S. 
N.  E. 
W. 
S.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
N. 
N.  E. 
E. 
S. 
S. 
N.W. 

Cloudy 

78 

75 
68 
69 

81 

68 
68 
72 
76 
80 

74 
77 
82 

77 
74 
64 
80 

77 
81 

81 

57 
59 
62 
64 
72 
73 
7° 
67 
67 

Cloudy 

Cloudy  
Flying  clouds    

Flying  clouds    
Rain 

Cloudy  

Cloudy  

Cloudy 

thunder    .... 
Flying  clouds                .  . 

Flying  clouds    

Cloudy  

Cloudy 

Cloudy  

Cloudy,  thunder  

Small  rain    .                   .    . 

Cloudy                       .    ... 

Cloudy 

Cloudy  .        

Rain                           

Flying  clouds 

[248] 


Appendix,  N°  5 


OCTOBER,   1762. 

go 

1 

SE 
°  J2 

as 

M 

W 

a 

Q 
£ 

5 

WEATHER. 

1! 

I 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
n 

12 

13 

H 
15 

16 

I? 
18 

19 

20 
21 
22 
23 
24 

25 
26 

27 
28 
29 
30 
31 

8 

60 

50 
56 

65 
60 

53 
58 
61 

59 
63 
59 
47 
49 
5i 
60 

52 
52 
5i 

45 
52 

43 
40 

39 
49 
44 
44 
36 
33 
32 
44 
46 

N. 
N.  E. 

s.w. 

s.w. 

W. 

N.W. 
S.  E. 
S. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 
N. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
W. 
N.W. 
W. 
W. 

s.w. 

W. 

S. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
N.  E. 

65 

59 
67 

74 

65 
61 

63 

75 
61 

7i 
64 

55 

59 
58 
58 

57 
65 
58 
60 

56 
5i 
5i 
54 
60 
64 
52 
46 

45 
45 

53 

Cloudy  

Rain 

Flying  clouds    

Flying  clouds    
Clouded 

Rain 

Clouded  
Cloudy       

Flying  clouds    

Rain  

Rain       .    . 

Clouded 

Cloudy,  thunder  and  hail  . 
Cloudy  

Clouded 

Rain,  thunder  

Cloudy  

thunder 

Rain 

Flying  clouds    
Little  rain    
Clouded  .    .    . 

Little  snow    

Cloudy 

[249] 


Travels    Through   North   America 


NOVEMBER,   1762. 

>> 
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p 

H 

MS 

w 

w 
X 

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o 
g 

£ 

WEATHER. 

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2 

3 

4 

6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
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12 

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14 
15 

16 

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18 

19 
20 

21 

22 
23 
24 
25 
26 

27 
28 
29 

3° 

8 

44 
50 
53 
42 
5i 
36 
34 
32 
40 

35 
38 
39 
36 
3i 
3i 
4i 
34 
3i 
42 
4i 
42 
35 
45 
46 

44 
48 

38 

40 

4i 
43 

S.  E. 

S. 

N.W. 
N.W. 
S.  E. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
N.W. 
W. 
N.E. 
N.W. 
W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 

s.w. 

N.W. 
N.W. 

N.W. 
N.E. 
N.E. 
N.E. 
N.E. 
S.  E. 
N. 
E. 
N.E. 
E. 
W. 

Cloudy 

58 

66 
61 

65 
43 
34 

4i 
46 

44 

47 
48 

45 

42 

48 
48 
42 
44 

47 
45 
58 
60 

52 
52 

49 
46 
46 

47 
48 

Flying  clouds 

Flying  clouds    
Rain  

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Clouded  

Cloudy 

Cloudy  
Clouded                

Cloudy 

Clouded  
Cloudy           .  . 

Flying  clouds    

FoffPV    • 

fofey 

Fo££V   • 

"667 

Formy 

*     667 

Foggy    

F°ggy  

Clouded 

Rain  
Misting  rain    . 

Flying  clouds 

[250] 


Appendix,   N°   5 


DECEMBER,   1762. 

m 

| 

i| 

KS 

K 
H 

a 
H 

Q 
fc 

$ 

WEATHER. 

ii 

w  «• 

2 

3 

4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
ii 

12 
13 
H 
15 

16 

i? 
18 

19 

20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 

8 

31 

33 
43 
44 
43 
36 
37 
33 
32 
34 
35 
52 
44 
40 

3° 
24 
30 
5i 

42 
40 

1-0 

50 
4i 
40 

4i 

3i 

26 
28 

30 
44 
44 

N.W. 
N. 
S.  W. 

s.w. 
s.w. 

N.W. 
S.W. 

N.W. 
N.W. 
W. 

s.w. 

S. 

s.w. 

N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
N.  E. 
N. 
W. 
S.W. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
N.W. 
N.  E. 
N.  E. 
S.W. 

44 

45 
46 

56 
45 
44 
42 
42 
47 
52 
56 
62 

55 
4i 
36 
4i 

49 
44 
43 
42 
47 
59 
4i 
4i 
43 
35 
34 
4i 
46 

50 
48 

Clouded     . 

Hazy 

Hazy    

Clouded  .  .    . 

Small  rain 

Clouded  

Cloudy  . 

Clouded  

Flying  clouds    
Clouded  

Clouded  

Cloudy 

Clouded  

Rain  

Misting  rain    , 
Clouded  

Cloudy  
Rain       .        

Rain 

Rain 

FoprrV 

A  W6b7    '                              ...... 

Misting  rain    

Fo£gv  . 

1  "fob/ 

EDITORIAL    NOTES. 

NOTE  I. 

THE  present-day  visitor  to  Williamsburg  finds  it  one 
of  the  most  charmingly  antique  towns  in  America.  Duke 
of  Gloucester,  the  main  street  of  the  village,  broadens  at 
its  centre  into  an  open  square  called  Court  House  Green, 
where  stands  an  ancient  temple  of  justice,  surrounded 
by  fine  colonial  residences.  Farther  up  Duke  of  Gloucester 
Street  is  another  square,  Palace  Green,  faced  by  other 
historic  mansions,  including  the  old  palace  of  the  royal 
governors.  Thence  a  short  walk  takes  one  to  the  ancient 
church  of  Bruton  parish,  the  oldest  Protestant  house  of 
worship  still  in  use  in  America;  and  at  the  end  of  the 
street  stands  the  restored  William  and  Mary  College. 
The  site  of  the  old  hall  of  the  House  of  Burgesses  is  at 
the  other  end  of  Duke  of  Gloucester  Street,  but  nothing 
remains  of  this  famous  structure  save  the  foundation,  and 
masses  of  broken  plaster  from  its  walls. 

NOTE  II. 

The  region  beyond  the  Ohio,  now  the  States  of  Ohio, 
Indiana  and  Illinois,  was  a  part  of  the  province  of  Virginia 
under  her  charter,  but  in  1781  was  ceded  to  the  Federal 


Notes 

Government.  See  Hinsdale's  "The  Old  Northwest,  with 
a  View  of  the  Thirteen  Colonies  as  Constituted  by  the 
Royal  Charters,"  New  York,  1899. 

NOTE  III. 

Colonel  William  Byrd,  of  Westover,  founder  of  the 
towns  of  Richmond  and  Petersburg,  was  one  of  the  most 
brilliant  figures  in  the  history  of  the  later  colonial  period. 
Born  to  an  ample  fortune,  the  epitaph  above  his  grave 
at  Westover  records  that  he  "was  sent  early  to  England, 
where  he  made  a  happy  proficiency  in  polite  and  various 
learning;  contracted  a  most  intimate  and  bosom  friend- 
ship with  the  learned  and  illustrious  Charles  Boyle,  Earl 
of  Orrery;  was  called  to  the  bar  of  the  Middle  Temple; 
was  chosen  Fellow  of  the  Royal  Society;  and  being  thirty- 
seven  years  a  member,  at  last  became  president  of  the 
council  of  this  colony."  His  epitaph  also  tells  the  way- 
farer that  he  was  "the  well-bred  gentleman  and  polite 
companion,  the  constant  enemy  of  all  exorbitant  power, 
and  hearty  friend  of  the  liberties  of  his  country."  The 
famous  "Westover  Manuscripts,"  written  by  Byrd  for 
his  own  amusement  and  first  published  in  1841,  is  one  of 
the  most  delightful  books  that  has  come  down  to  us  from 
the  colonial  period. 

NOTE  IV. 

Henry  Bouquet,  born  in  Rolle,  Switzerland,  in  1719, 
served  in  the  armies  of  Holland  and  Sardinia,  and  in  1756 
entered  the  British  service  with  the  rank  of  lieutenant- 
colonel.  He  took  part  in  the  expedition  against  Fort 
Duquesne  in  1758  and  was  present  at  its  capture.  Five 
years  later  he  successfully  led  an  expedition  to  the  relief 

[254] 


Notes 

of  the  same  fort,  then  called  Fort  Pitt.  In  October,  1764, 
he  marched  against  the  Ohio  Indians,  who  were  harrying 
the  border,  and  compelled  the  Shawnees,  Delawares  and 
other  tribes  to  make  peace  at  Tuscarawas.  He  was  made 
colonel  in  1762,  and  at  the  time  of  his  death,  which  occurred 
at  Pensacola  in  1766,  held  the  rank  of  brigadier-general. 
An  account  of  Bouquet's  expedition  against  the  Ohio 
Indians,  written  by  Dr.  William  Smith,  then  provost  of 
the  College  of  Philadelphia,  and  published  in  1766,  was 
reprinted  at  Cincinnati  in  1868  with  preface  by  Francis 
Parkman. 

NOTE  V. 

Spotswood's  iron  works  were  located  near  the  present 
Germanna  Ford  on  the  Rapidan.  There  is  an  engaging 
account  of  a  visit  to  them  in  the  "  Westover  Manuscripts." 

NOTE  VI. 

The  parsons  were  right  both  in  law  and  in  equity,  but 
popular  greed  and  prejudice  were  against  them.  It  was 
as  counsel  for  the  defence  in  one  of  the  suits  growing  out 
of  this  affair  that,  in  1763,  Patrick  Henry,  then  a  young 
lawyer  of  twenty-seven,  first  proved  his  supreme  powers 
as  an  orator,  and  at  the  same  time  startled  his  auditors 
with  the  bold  declaration  "that  a  king,  by  disallowing  acts 
of  a  salutary  nature,  from  being  the  father  of  his  people, 
degenerated  into  a  tyrant,  and  forfeited  all  right  to  his 
subjects'  obedience."  A  full  and  satisfying  account  of 
the  Parsons'  Cause  will  be  found  in  the  first  volume  of 
William  Wirt  Henry's  "Patrick  Henry:  Life,  Correspond- 
ence and  Speeches,"  New  York,  1891. 

[»5S] 


Notes 

NOTE  VII. 

George  Wythe,  described  by  Thomas  Jefferson  as  "the 
Cato  of  his  country  without  the  avarice  of  the  Roman," 
was  born  in  1726,  and  was  early  chosen  a  member  of  the 
House  of  Burgesses  where  he  served  until  the  opening  of 
the  Revolution.  A  leader  from  the  first  in  the  Patriot 
cause,  he  was,  in  August,  1775,  appointed  a  delegate  to 
the  Continental  Congress  from  Virginia,  and  as  such 
signed  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  He  became 
speaker  of  the  Virginia  House  of  Delegates  in  1777,  and  a 
little  later  was  made  chancellor  of  the  State,  which  post 
he  held  for  more  than  twenty  years.  For  ten  years  follow- 
ing 1779  he  was  also  professor  of  law  in  William  and 
Mary  College,  and  in  1787  served  as  a  member  of  the  con- 
vention that  framed  the  Federal  Constitution.  His  death 
in  his  eighty-first  year  was  due  to  poison,  administered, 
it  was  believed,  by  his  nephew,  who  was  tried  for  the  crime 
but  acquitted. 

NOTE  VIII. 

David  Douglas  was  from  1758  to  1774  manager  of  the 
American  Company,  the  most  important  organization  of 
players  in  the  colonies.  He  also  built  the  first  permanent 
theatres  in  New  York,  Philadelphia  and  Charleston.  At 
the  opening  of  the  Revolution  he  withdrew  to  Jamaica, 
where,  following  his  retirement,  he  held  the  posts  of  master 
in  chancery  and  magistrate.  He  died  in  1786. 

NOTE  IX. 

James  Logan,  born  in  Ireland  in  1674,  was  from  1699 
until  his  death  in  1751  the  business  agent  in  Pennsylvania 
of  William  Penn  and  his  heirs,  and,  Benjamin  Franklin 

[256] 


Notes 

excepted,  the  ablest  and  most  influential  citizen  of  that 
province,  serving  at  different  times  as  member  and  presi- 
dent of  the  provincial  council,  justice  of  the  court  of  com- 
mon pleas,  mayor  of  Philadelphia,  chief  justice  and  gov- 
ernor. His  library  of  2,000  volumes  which  he  bequeathed 
to  the  city  of  Philadelphia  was  in  1792  annexed  to  the 
Philadelphia  Library,  established  in  1731  by  Franklin 
and  now  housed  at  the  corner  of  Locust  and  Juniper  streets 
in  that  city,  but  has  been  kept  separate  under  the  name 
of  the  Loganian  Library. 

NOTE  X. 

St.  George's  Chapel  stood  at  the  corner  of  the  present 
Beekman  and  Cliff  Streets,  New  York.  Built  and  opened 
in  1752,  it  was  rebuilt  after  its  destruction  by  fire  in  1814, 
and  was  occupied  until  1841,  when  it  was  demolished  and 
its  congregation  removed  to  the  present  church  in  Ruther- 
ford Place.  Warehouses  now  cover  its  site  and  the  burial 
ground  which  aforetime  surrounded  it. 

NOTE  XL 

The  prison  referred  to  by  Burnaby  stood  in  City  Hall 
Park,  New  York,  on  the  line  of  the  present  Park  Row. 
Built  in  1756,  it  was  originally  a  graystone  structure  sur- 
mounted by  a  tower  which  was  long  a  famous  outlook  for 
fires.  During  the  Revolution  and  the  British  occupation 
of  New  York  it  was  used  as  a  Patriot  prison.  Then  it 
became  a  place  of  detention  for  delinquent  debtors,  and 
served  that  purpose  until  1829,  when  the  common  council 
decided  to  reconstruct  it  and  devote  it  to  the  housing  of 
the  city  records.  It  was  accordingly  cut  down  a  story 


Notes 

and  encased  in  new  outer  walls,  and  as  the  Hall  of  Records 
remained  one  of  the  historic  landmarks  of  the  city  until 
1903,  when  it  was  torn  down  because  it  obstructed  the 
route  of  the  underground  railway. 

NOTE  XII. 

The  fort  of  Burnaby's  time  was  the  successor  of  the  one 
built  by  the  Dutch  founders  of  New  York.  It  stood  just 
south  of  Bowling  Green,  but  was  demolished  in  1790  to 
furnish  a  site,  first  for  an  official  residence  for  the  governors 
of  the  State,  then  for  a  row  of  dwellings,  and  finally  for  a 
custom-house. 

NOTE  XIII. 

The  history  of  New  York's  first  public  library  is  an  in- 
teresting one.  In  1729  a  collection  of  books  bequeathed 
by  John  Millington,  rector  of  Newington,  England,  to 
the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel  in  Foreign 
Parts,  was  by  that  organization  presented  to  the  city  for  a 
public  library.  At  the  same  time  like  disposition  was 
made  of  a  collection  presented  to  the  society  in  1700  by 
the  Reverend  John  Sharp,  chaplain  of  Lord  Bellomont, 
then  royal  governor  of  New  York.  A  quarter  of  a  century 
later  a  number  of  citizens  organized  themselves  into  a 
body,  which  in  due  time  received  a  royal  charter  under 
the  name  of  the  New  York  Society  Library.  Its  collec- 
tion of  books  housed  in  the  old  city  hall  in  Wall  Street 
grew  steadily  until  the  Revolution,  during  which  it  was 
scattered  and  almost  totally  destroyed  by  the  British 
soldiery.  The  society  reorganized,  however,  in  1783,  and 
reviving  its  charter  again  began  the  collection  of  books. 
A  building  was  erected  in  Nassau  Street  in  1793,  but  the 

[258] 


Notes 

collection  soon  outgrew  its  quarters,  and  removing  to 
Chambers  Street  the  society  continued  there  until  1840 
when  it  occupied  a  building  of  its  own  at  the  corner  of 
Broadway  and  Leonard  Street.  Hardly  was  it  settled 
here  when  the  growth  of  the  business  section  of  the  city 
forced  it  to  seek  new  quarters.  It  established  itself  for 
a  time  in  Astor  Place,  and  then  in  1857  removed  to  its 
present  home  in  University  Place. 

NOTE  XIV. 

Money  for  the  founding  of  what  in  Burnaby's  time  was 
King's  College  and  is  now  Columbia  University  was  raised 
by  a  public  lottery  set  afoot  by  the  provincial  assembly  of 
New  York.  Trinity  Church  gave  it  for  a  site  the  plot  of 
ground  now  bounded  by  College  Place,  and  by  Church, 
Murray  and  Barclay  Streets;  and  the  three-story  building 
of  stone  erected  thereon  was  first  occupied  in  1760,  six 
years  after  the  college  received  its  charter.  Samuel  John- 
son, who  forty  years  before  had  helped  in  the  founding  of 
Yale  College,  was  its  first  president,  and  had  at  the  outset 
but  a  single  assistant.  The  first  graduating  class,  that  of 
1758,  numbered  only  eight;  but  the  college  grew  from 
year  to  year  in  numbers  and  efficiency,  and  when  Dr. 
Johnson  resigned  the  presidency,  in  1763,  he  had  laid  a 
sure  foundation  for  his  successors. 

NOTE  XV. 

Two  Kissing  Bridges  have  a  place  in  the  early  history 
of  New  York.  In  the  opening  years  of  the  last  century,  a 
small  stream  called  the  Saw-kill  was  spanned  at  the  present 
intersection  of  Third  Avenue  and  Seventy-seventh  Street 

[259] 


Notes 

by  a  bridge  which  John  Randel,  Jr.,  declares  was  known 
to  all  the  young  men  and  women  of  his  day  as  the  Kissing 
Bridge.  The  Kissing  Bridge  of  Burnaby's  time,  however, 
spanned  a  creek  in  what  is  now  the  Bowery,  a  little  to  the 
south  of  the  present  Chatham  Square. 

NOTE  XVI. 

The  Redwood  Library,  chartered  in  1747,  takes  its 
name  from  Abraham  Redwood  (1709-1788),  a  benevolent 
Quaker  merchant  of  Newport,  who  was  one  of  its  founders. 
The  building  in  which  it  is  housed,  a  handsome  Doric 
structure  completed  in  1750,  was  designed  by  Peter  Harri- 
son, the  architect  of  Blenheim  Castle. 

NOTE  XVII. 

In  1725,  the  famous  George  Berkeley,  then  dean  of 
Derry,  conceived  the  idea  of  converting  the  American 
Indians  to  Christianity  by  means  of  a  college  to  be  estab- 
lished in  the  Bermuda  Islands.  Sir  Robert  Walpole,  at 
that  time  chief  minister,  opposed  the  enterprise,  but 
Berkeley  persuaded  the  British  government  to  promise  a 
grant  of  £20,000  in  support  of  his  plans,  and  in  September, 
1728,  he  sailed  for  America,  expecting  to  found  the  college 
and  assume  its  presidency.  He  reached  Newport  in 
January,  1729,  where  he  bought  a  farm,  erected  upon  it 
a  small  house,  engaged  in  correspondence  and  study, 
composed  "The  Minute  Philosopher,"  preached  occa- 
sionally, and  waited  in  vain  for  the  expected  endowment. 
Finally,  wearied  by  long  delays  and  reluctantly  convinced 
that  Walpole  had  no  intention  of  giving  him  the  promised 
support,  Berkeley  gave  up  his  residence  at  Newport,  and, 

[260] 


Notes 

after  a  short  stay  in  Boston,  in  September,  1731,  set  sail 
for  home.  Three  years  after  his  return  to  England  he 
became  bishop  of  Cloyne.  He  died  in  1753  at  the  age 
of  sixty-nine. 

NOTE  XVIII. 

John  Smibert,  who  was  to  have  been  professor  of  fine 
arts  in  Berkeley's  projected  college,  was  born  in  Edin- 
burgh in  1684,  studied  painting  in  London,  and  then  passed 
some  years  in  Italy.  Returning  to  England  he  became  a 
portrait  painter  in  London,  and,  in  1729,  came  to  America 
with  Berkeley.  He  painted  for  some  months  in  Newport, 
and  when  the  Bermuda  enterprise  was  abandoned  settled 
in  Boston.  When  Berkeley  became  bishop  of  Cloyne,  he 
asked  Smibert  to  join  him  in  Ireland,  but  the  painter,  who 
in  the  meantime  had  married  a  wealthy  widow,  declined 
his  patron's  invitation,  and  dwelt  in  Boston,  prosperous 
and  contented  until  his  death  in  1751.  Smibert's  most 
important  American  work  is  the  painting  of  Berkeley  and 
his  family,  executed  in  Boston  in  the  summer  of  1731,  and 
presented  to  Yale  College  in  1808. 

NOTE  XIX. 

A  native  of  Sussex,  England,  and  born  in  1693,  William 
Shirley  at  the  age  of  forty-one  settled  in  Boston  in  the 
practice  of  his  profession  —  the  law.  He  served  as  gov- 
ernor of  Massachusetts  from  1741  to  1745,  and  in  the 
latter  year  planned  the  successful  expedition  against  Cape 
Breton.  He  was  in  England  from  1745  to  1753,  but  then 
returned  to  Massachusetts  as  governor,  and  at  the  opening 
of  the  French  war  in  1755  was  commander-in-chief  of  the 
British  forces  in  North  America.  He  was  made  lieutenant- 


Notes 

general  in  1759,  and  later  served  as  governor  of  the  Bahama 
Islands.  He  returned  to  Massachusetts  in  1770,  and  died 
in  the  following  year  at  Roxbury. 

NOTE  XX. 

Under  the  name  of  "  bundling  "  the  custom  described 
by  Burnaby  prevailed  until  a  recent  period  in  the  sections 
of  Pennsylvania  originally  settled  by  Germans.  The 
curious  will  find  the  subject  exhaustively  treated  in  Henry 
Reed  Stiles  "Bundling:  its  origin,  progress  and  decline 
in  America,"  Albany,  1871. 


[262] 


INDEX 


Albany,  114 
Alexandria,  69 
Anabaptists,  90, 113,  121 
Annapolis,  80 
Apthorpe,  Rev.,  139 

B 

Bahama  river,  86 
Bailor,  Colonel,  63 
Bassett,  Colonel,  70 
Belvedere,  39 
Berkeley,  Dean,  121,  260 
Blair,  John,  37 
Blue  Ridge  Mountains,  71, 
Boston,   132-134 
Bouquet,    Colonel    Henry, 

254 

Boyle,  Mr.,  53 
Bristol,  103 

Broadway,  New  York,  112 
Brunswick,  104 
Bundling,   See  Tarrying 
Burlington,  104 
Byrd,  Colonel  William,  39, 

254 

C 

Carlisle,  92 
Chesapeake  Bay,  41 
Chester,  88 


Chester  River,  86 
Chew,   Captain,  30 
Chiswell,  Colonel,  42 
Church  of  England,  48,  84,  90, 

95,103,104,116,121,139 
Churchill,  Colonel,  78 
Colchester,  66 
Congregationalists,  138 

D 

Delaware,  87,  88 

Delaware,  Falls  of,  103 

Delaware  river,  91 

Derby,  88 
72      Diggs,  Colonel  Edward,  32 

Douglas,  David,  80,  256 
40,      Dumfries,  65 

Dutch  Calvinists,  90,  113 


Elizabethtown,  105 
Elk  river,  86 

F 

78,      Fairfax,  Brian,  Lord,  206,  212 
Fairfax,  George  William,  209 
Fairfax,  Thomas,  210 
Fairfax,  Thomas,  Lord,  71, 197- 

206 
Fairfax,  William,  200,  207 

[263] 


Index 


Faneuil  Hall,  133 
Fauquier,  Francis,  129 
Franklin,  Benjamin,  140 
Fredericksburg,  63 
Fredericktown,  87 


Gaines,  Major  Henry,  63 
Germantown,  92 
Great  Choptank  river,  86 
Greenway  Court,  71 

H 

Harvard  College,  139 
Hell  Gate,  119 
Henry,  Patrick,  255 

I 

Indians,  Cherokee,  56 
Indians,  Pamunky,  62 

j 

James  river,  39 
Jefferson,  Thomas,  40 
Jews,  113,  121 
Johnson,  Samuel,  117 

K 

King's  Chapel,  Boston,  133 
King's  College,  112,  117,  259 
Kissing  Bridge,  118,  259 


M 

Magotty  river,  86 

Maine,  134 

Manokin  river,  87 

Marlborough,  80 

Martin,  Thomas,  202,  206 

Maryland,  80—87 

Massachusetts  Bay,  132-145 

Mattapony  river,  40 

Miles  river,  86 

Moore,  Colonel  Bernard,  61 

Moravians,    113,    121 

Mount  Vernon,   67 

N 

Nanticote  river,  87 

Nassau  Hall,  103 

Natural   Bridge,  77 

Necks,  Captain,  30 

Newark,  105 

Newcastle,  87 

New  Hampshire,   146-149 

New  Jersey,  103-110 

Newport,  1 20 

New  York,  City  of,  111-113 

New  York,   Province  of,   no- 

119 

Northern  Neck,  66 
North  river,  86 


Occoquan  river,  66 


Lancaster,  92 
Little  Choptank  river,  86 
Logan,  James,  90,  256 
Long  Island,  119 
Loudon,  Fort,  56 
Lutherans,  90,   113 


Pamunky   river,   40 
Parsons'  cause,  49-52,  255 
Passaic  Falls,  105 
Patuxent  river,  86 
Pawtucket  river,  131 

[264] 


Inde: 


Pennsylvania,  88-103 


Smibert,  John,  122,  261 


Pennsylvania  College  (now  uni-      Smith,  William,  96 


versity),  96 
Perth  Amboy,  104 
Philadelphia,  88-91 
Pocomoke  river,  87 
Portsmouth,  146 
Potomac,  Falls  of,  68 
Potomac  river,  40 
Presbyterians,  90,  103,  104,  121 
Princeton,  103 
Providence,  131 

Q, 

Quakers,  90,  96,  99,  103,  113, 

121 

Quantico  river,  66 

R 

Randolph,  Peyton,  203 
Rappahannock,  Falls  of,  64 
Rappahannock  river,  40 
Redwood  Library,  260 
Rhode  Island,  120-131 
Richmond,  35 
Roman  Catholics,  84,  90,  116 

S 


Society  Library,  116,  258 

South  river,  86 

Spotswood,  Alexander,  41,  255 

Staten  Island,  no 

Sterling,  Captain,  29 

Symes,  Colonel,  61 

Susquehanna  river,  86 


Tarrying,  141,  262 

Tasco,  Colonel,  85 

Trenton,  103 

Trinity  Church,  New  York,  112 

V 

Virginia,  32-80,  253 

W 

Wampum,   no 

Washington,  George,  36,  67,  74, 

76 
Washington,   Lawrence,   211 

West,  Benjamin,  96 
West  Point,  39 
Whitefield,  George,  90 


StagGdeorg°eC'S  Chapel,  New  York,      ™!!lam  and  Mar^  College> 

Williamsburg,  33,  253 

Wilmington,  88 
Winchester,  74 
Woodbridge,  105 
Wye  river,  86 


112,  257 

Sassafras  river,  86 
Schenectady,  114 
Schuyler,  Colonel  John,  106 
Schuyler,  Colonel  Peter,  107 
Severn  river,  80,  86 
Shenandoah   river,  73 
Shirley,  William,  133,  261 
Sinclair,  Sir  John,  103 


Slavery,  Negro,  47,  54,  66,  114,      York,  32 


Wythe,  George,  53,  256 

Y 

Yale  College,  122 


124 


York  river,  39 


THE  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA,  SANTA  CRUZ 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  DATE  stamped  below. 


3 


DUE 

APR  2  2  1991 


?.PR  20  1991  REC'D 


lOOm-8,'65  (F6282s8)2373 


E162.B972  1904 


3  2106  00056  0216 


